Latest news with #Axarquía
Forbes
10 hours ago
- Forbes
Beyond Rioja: 5 Underrated Spanish Wine Regions
Ronda, Spain at Puente Nuevo Bridge. Most travelers who come to Spain for wine often go to the same few places. Rioja. Jerez. Even Catalonia for cava. Spain remains one of the world's most influential wine-producing countries, with the largest vineyard area globally and the third-highest production in the European Union after France and Italy. As of 2024, domestic wine consumption reached 9.76 million hectoliters, a 1.3% increase from the previous year, driven in part by stable prices and a rebound in tourism that bolstered on-premise sales in restaurants and hotels. That same year, Spain's wine tourism industry was projected to generate $4.1 billion, representing 11% of the European market. Nearly 3 million people visited Spain for wine tourism in 2023, an 18.2% increase from the previous year. While much of this activity centers on established hubs like La Rioja and Ribera del Duero, the sector's expansion reflects broader interest in Spanish wine culture—including lesser-known regions now drawing attention for their distinct production methods and grape varieties. Beyond the major names, a quieter movement is reshaping the country's wine production and attracting a new kind of visitor as slow travel and quiet travel (and even silent travel) take greater hold over tourism. 'For discerning travelers or collectors, the Málaga wine region offers some incredibly unique finds,' says Nicky Lloyd, founder and CEO of Rootz Wine Tours, via email. 'In Axarquía and Manilva, look for aromatic muscat wines that showcase the purity and freshness of the Mediterranean landscape. Ronda's high-altitude wines have a distinct minerality and elegance that you won't find in many other places, offer a great ability to age and evolve over time. Antequera's wines, with a focus on local varieties and traditional winemaking methods, offer a fascinating glimpse into the region's past.' These five underappreciated regions are gaining attention among travelers seeking something unfamiliar. Lovers Rock in Antequera, Spain. Antequera sits at a crossroads in Andalucía. Its history stretches back millennia, but its wine production has largely remained outside the spotlight. Local producers work with grapes sourced nearby and focus on small-scale bottlings with distinct characteristics. The area's climate and elevation allow for flexibility in winemaking approaches, but production remains limited. What the region offers is accessibility and a quieter setting just outside the main tourist corridors. Between Seville and Málaga, Antequera is easily reached but often overlooked, offering a slower pace and a more personal experience with its wines. Lloyd notes there's also a real push here towards eco-conscious viticulture. 'Unlike some of Spain's larger, more industrial wine regions, Málaga's winemakers often work with small, family-run operations that prioritize sustainability as a way to preserve the land for future generations,' Lloyd says. 'Organic and biodynamic farming practices are becoming increasingly popular, especially in places like Ronda and Antequera, where the terrain and climate lend themselves to low-intervention farming. Producers here are dedicated to reducing their environmental footprint, using organic fertilizers, and embracing natural pest control methods." Frigiliana is a village in the province of Málaga, located within Axarquía, a comarca—or district—of Andalucía in southern Spain. To the east of Málaga, Axarquía clings to steep hillsides that resist mechanization. 'Axarquia remains a very traditional place for wine production in particular,' says Lloyd. 'Here, old-world techniques still shape the character of the wines. The only way to prune and pick the grapes is by hand. They still use mules to plough the hillside in between the vines." Lindsay Gregory, founder and director of the Luxury Villa Collection, suggests a lack of rain is the major factor as well. 'They have to use local autochthonous grape varieties and methods, which need less water because of this,' says Gregory. 'Also, many of the wineries are mostly bio-natural or organic, so they have to be totally in tune with the land." The region is known for sweet moscatel wines, though red romé grapes native to the area are also widely used. With more than 2,200 hectares under vine, Axarquía is part of the Málaga and Sierras de Málaga denominación and is home to numerous small wineries. Nearby Frigiliana is considered among the most scenic villages in Andalucía, and tastings are often paired with visits to whitewashed hill towns. Though not widely visited, Axarquía is the primary subzone for wine within the Málaga area, making it relatively easy to reach for those willing to move beyond the usual stops. El Puerto de Santa María in Andalucía, Spain. Part of the Cádiz-based Sherry Triangle, El Puerto de Santa Maria is frequently passed over in favor of Jerez de la Frontera. But this smaller town features historic bodegas and sherry houses producing high-quality wines with deep roots in the region's past. Producers focus on sherries including manzanilla, palo cortado and amontillado, often using methods passed down through generations. Family-run operations dot the town's narrow streets and offer access to tasting experiences in more intimate settings than those found in larger cities. El Puerto de Santa Maria is one of three key towns in the sherry-producing area, and though it receives less attention, it remains central to the region's identity. Traditional bodegas and aging facilities are still in use, and some are paired with on-site dining that features regional specialties. Ronda, Málaga, Spain. Perched above a deep gorge in southern Spain, Ronda has emerged as a serious wine destination with a focus on small, independent producers. "Malaga is a curious region. It has 49 wineries, 28 of which are in Ronda,' notes Lloyd. 'However, the area under vineyard is equally distributed between Axarquia, Antequera and Manilva. The majority of the wineries in Ronda are small boutique organic wineries with a production of less than 15,000 bottles per year. Whereas the coastal regions of Axarquia and Manilva mainly produce sweet wines and dry wines from muscat and Pedro Ximénez, Ronda has a greater focus on full-bodied, aged red wines.' Boutique operations work with varietals including petit verdot and malbec. Many tasting rooms are located just outside town, with views over the countryside and surrounding mountains. Some of the area's most noted wineries occupy restored historic buildings, including a 16th-century monastery. 'Ronda is definitely taking off as a wine destination in its own right,' says Gregory. 'The 'Sherry Triangle' is now firmly on the map thanks to local initiatives like International Sherry Week, which was founded by Chelsea Anthon 12 years ago, working with a growing list of English-speaking Sherry educators.' Lloyd echoes the growing tourism infrastructure in Ronda. 'The region has built up a solid following over the last 10 years for its consistently and well-made, high-quality, fruit-driven wines with good aging potential. The region offers an ideal climate for wine making with consistently warm springs and summers to encourage perfect ripening of the grapes.' Alquézar, Somontano de Barbastro, Huesca, an autonomous community of Aragón, Spain. Set at the base of the Pyrenees in Aragón, Somontano has become a center for experimentation and modernization. The region's name means 'beneath the mountain,' and its diverse topography supports both native and international grape varieties. Growers work with moristel, parraleta, syrah, gewürztraminer and merlot. Winemaking here gained momentum in the late 20th century, and many producers combine modern facilities with long-established techniques. Wineries such as Sommos and Viñas del Vero have helped shape the area's reputation for innovation. With fewer visitors and proximity to historic villages and national parks, Somontano appeals to travelers seeking a quieter destination. The wines are varied, with crisp whites and structured reds, and the setting offers a contrast to Spain's more heavily trafficked regions.
Telegraph
11-05-2025
- Telegraph
This route through Malaga's mountains is Spain's most underrated road trip
Winding through the mountains of the Axarquía region in southern Spain, the 40-mile Ruta de la Pasa, or 'Raisin Route', links a string of whitewashed Moorish towns: Moclinejo, Almáchar, El Borge, Cútar, Comares and Totalán. Surrounded by arid landscapes speckled with vineyards and paseros where grapes dry out in the sun post harvest, the unassuming town of El Borge sits at the heart and carries the nickname 'Raisin Capital', proudly being the largest producer of muscatel raisins in the country. The area even has a Denomination of Origin, just like the impeccable wine of the region. The schedule of our two-day road trip was entirely our own. With a nippy hire car, the local radio station turned up and a very creased map, we headed out of Málaga and veered inland, swapping the buzz of the coast for the stillness of the hills 45 minutes away. Climbing higher towards our first stop, we quickly realised some roads were not for the faint-hearted. After a few failed hill starts, we felt we deserved a treat. Pulling into the main square in Almáchar, we slipped into the sun-warmed chairs outside Bar López. When I offered to order at the bar, we were swiftly waved back to our seats – that perfect blend of hospitality and nonchalance that only Spaniards have mastered. Not a drip of English was spoken, which turned out to be almost as refreshing as the coffee. From our vantage point we spied St Matthew's Church in the town, built in the 16th century and still with its Mudéjar bell-tower – a distinctive Andalusian style blending Islamic and Christian architecture, borne from the centuries-long tussle that followed the Reconquista. The bright white buildings of El Borge bunched together at the foot of the Cerro de Cútar as they came into view from the road. While grapes are being sun-drenched in the low seasons, the town remains full of life. Chatty residents leave their laundry out to dry on their paseos along the Calle Guillermo Pérez, and the sweetest wine is kept back for locals to enjoy (there's even a festival – Día de la Pasa, or Raisin Day – each September, celebrating the grapes). Each day, as the light descends, the shellac-smooth cobbles are criss-crossed on the way to Bar Paco, the main meeting place in the town of 1,000. The patron of the bar is, unsurprisingly, a man called Paco. I tried to feign nonchalance as regulars had their usuals delivered without ordering, but nearly gave myself away with a stifled gasp of surprise when the bill came for our lunch – our food and a glass of wine for just shy of €5. Sensing my desire to blend, friendly Paco suggested we come back for the menu of the day and try the local speciality of ajoblanco (white gazpacho), and also directed us to the town's museum. Tucked away on the hillside overlooking the town, the impressive Galería del Bandolero (3€ per adult, 1€ per person for groups of four or more) pays tribute to local legend and bandit Luis Muñoz García, known as 'El Bizco de El Borge' (the Cross-eyed Man from El Borge). With more than 1,300 relics, photos, and weapons, it brings to life the dramatic tales of the bandits who once roamed the nearby hills. We checked into Hotel Posada Del Bandolero in the centre of town, where the theme continued, its six rooms all named after infamous bandits (all names we now recognised, thanks to Paco's recommendation). Owned by Miriam and Pedro, the inn was perfectly rustic; contented groups of Spaniards lounged cosily around historic millstones, savouring the last of their long lunches. The rooms were simple yet distinctly Andalusian, with tiles, dark beamed ceilings and period features, and from our balcony, we could hear nearby bell chimes bouncing off the hillside. El Borge is the kind of town where the supermarket shuts for a three-hour siesta, but by 7pm the inn hums with life and the restaurant is fully booked on weekends. Featuring produce from Málaga and the Axarquía region, it draws plenty of locals from nearby villages and cities (always a good sign). Quality meats and hearty stews all washed down with Muscatel wine are the order of the day. We feasted on the speciality, goat 'Bandolero' style – and an exquisite sirloin with a local raisin sauce. The following day, we returned to Bar Paco for sustenance before our next leg of the drive. Tracing the Islamic architecture within the town, we meandered through the hillside alleys, past the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary and the Plaza de la Constitucion. Paco gave us the insider scoop on the best views along the remainder of the route; having owned the bar since 1999 (taking over from his father, who ran it during Franco's rule), we felt he knew his stuff. The tapestry of the green vines and the saddle-hued earth continued to weave all the way up to Cútar and Comares, the latter known locally as the 'balcony of Axarquía'. We were nearing the clouds as we spotted the castle where a Moorish fortress once lay. The light was sharper here, revealing a glistening stretch of the Mediterranean just 20 miles away. On our descent, we spotted men toiling, dotted all across the scorched hills. The labour to harvest this exquisite, hand-picked produce is backbreaking; a glimpse of an Andalusia that has remained unchanged for centuries. We said goodbye to the Ruta de la Pasa. Once guarding the inland towns from coastal threats, Totalán's 11th-century watchtower seemed to wave us off, its secrets safe for now. But with the Día de la Pasa festival on our minds – all music, dancing, delicious wine, and proud growers balancing grape-gold on their heads – we knew we'd be back. Essentials
The Independent
09-05-2025
- The Independent
The enchanting Spanish village that got tourism right
I begin this story with a cemetery. Granted, it is a spectacular cemetery, at the very top of Spain 's highest pueblo blanco or white village, with views, well, to die for, eastwards over the mountains, the Med glistening to the south. The walls, dotted with plastic flowers and photographs of the deceased, are blinding white in the late afternoon sun. I am looking curiously at one of them, because there is something I haven't seen here before: a row of memorial plaques to British people who have lived in the village, which is called Comares, and contributed in some way to its life and prosperity. There's the late Ernie, the electrician who looked like Father Christmas. And there is Dennis, the former London car dealer who had a seat on the local council. There's space for a few more – but I won't be one of them. I've had a house in Comares since 1999, but now I'm selling up. And I'm not alone. Since the Spanish Prime Minister threatened a 100 per cent tax on homes owned by non-EU nationals in January, the headlines have been pretty bleak. Newspaper reports state that Spain wants to 'punish' British homeowners. And if that wasn't enough, we have the anti-tourism protests. It seems the decades-long love affair between Spain and British tourists and house buyers has reached an acrimonious end. But that memorial wall tells a different story. And so does Comares. Let's locate you. It's an hour's drive east of Malaga in an epic, mountainous land called the Axarquía. It's not very well known. 'Could you spell that?' said a woman from the Spanish Tourist office when I said I wanted to write about the area. And yes, she was Spanish. Intrepid foreigners have been finding a refuge here since the late 1980s. My friend Clair has lived in the village since she came here as a teenager and still rarely gets off the mountain. In fact, before the EU funded a new road up here and a bus service, there were some elderly people from Comares who never had. The Independent 's Simon Calder asked me to write about the village shortly after we bought our house in 1999. I felt protective. It is an astonishingly beautiful place, and you know what happens to astonishingly beautiful places within easy reach of several international airports. So I begged Simon to headline the article Please Don't Come to Comares – which, as an honourable man, he did. I've regretted that headline ever since. Okay, the article was heavily ironic, contrasting the village with over-touristed honeypots like Ronda and Frigiliana. But like so many rural villages, Comares' population aged and waned. What I soon came to realise was, despite those 'fanatics' quoted earlier, Comares really does need the tourists. It tried. The local town hall invested heavily in prettifying the village. Concrete or dirt paths were replaced with cobbles. A ceramics co-operative made attractive interpretative signs telling the story of the village from its origins as an Arab stronghold. They made dozens of new parking spaces below the village. Year after year, these remained empty. On Sundays, you'd get a trickle of intrepid daytrippers up from the coast. Parking was not a problem. I walk down the road from the cemetery (tight, narrow – Comares is effectively pedestrianised, though try telling that to the local farmers). It's spring and Comares is usually dead quiet. But as I approach the main plaza, I hear noise – voices, music, the clatter of glasses and plates. This is strange. The main square is packed. Waiting staff carrying coffees, beer, salads and plates of fried fish run to and fro between the Bar La Plaza and Robert's, its adjoining restaurant. The courtyard of the hotel, Verde Olivia, is doing good business, too. At the Balcon viewpoint, visitors are clustering around, taking in the views down to the coast and, to the east, the looming majestic shape of La Maroma, the local mountain. A party of young climbers carrying their gear make their way up the hill to the square. A lady from the recently-opened souvenir shop runs out calling 'Mira! Mira!' at them. Olive oil! Local wine! ¡Dios mío! They've finally discovered Comares. I peer down the hill. Nope. Nowhere to park. While locals from the Canaries to the Costas angrily march to reclaim their beaches and shoot water pistols at visitors, up here in the mountains a quieter, more civilised and friendlier form of rural tourism is at last taking root. What's happened? Covid, for one thing. Elena Roji Montero, a local councillor, says her fellow citizens discovered their own countryside in a big way after being cooped up for so long. More and more Spanish people and foreigners are taking the long and winding road up from the plains. Our house is being bought by a lovely Belgian woman named Sofie who plans to reunite it with the two others in the same little calle she already has. These village streets have been morphing and reshaping since the 9th century. Sofie plans to open a little shop selling 'local curiosities, vintage finds, boho-chic dresses, handmade ceramics and small wonders that whisper stories of Andalusia'. Elena is happy: 'We need more shops!' This is such an Andalusian story. From the Phoenicians onwards, different peoples have come and gone in these hills. I have an old schoolfriend, a retired Spanish teacher, who lives a few valleys over near Torrox. 'Round here, they love tourists and foreign residents,' he tells me. 'People over 40 remember the dire poverty of their grandparents. Tourists often become residents who then employ local artisans and keep traditional crafts and produce alive.' Maybe a suitable headline for this piece could be 'Please come to Comares'? Unlike previous years, you'll definitely get a bed and a good meal and (also unlike previous years), you had better book in advance. Who knows, you might even stay forever. Getting there Numerous airlines flky from the UK to Malaga, including Jet2, British Airways, Vueling and easyJet. Flight time is around 3 hours, and Comares is a 1 hour drive from Malaga. There are buses between the village and Velez Malaga and Malaga itself, but hiring a car is easier. Where to stay The best hotel and restaurant is the Verde Olivia on the square. You'll also find decent food at Roberts and the Mirador de la Axarquia. The walking and cycling are incredible. There's a zipline across the mountains and Comares is fast becoming a magnet for rock climbing.
