02-05-2025
Wine with Leslie: These are my favourite rosés to enjoy this season, including a €9 bottle
Summertime. Don't mind those meteorologists that tell you summer starts in June. In Ireland it starts on Bealtaine, May 1, or at worst, on the May Bank Holiday Weekend.
Bealtaine marks the end of spring and the start of summer, and traditionally involved bonfires, fertility rituals, dancing and craic. In the wine world, if you get good weather in May, and especially around the bank holiday, it is also the start of rosé season.
I'm that weirdo who drinks rosé all year round but I do inevitably drink more in summertime. I'm writing this a few weeks in advance so if the warm weather hasn't shown up don't forget that rosé is a fine match for barbecued, spicy food (especially Thai and Vietnamese), and for the anchovy garlicky flavours as found in Provençal cooking.
A punchy aïoli, or better still an anchovy-garlic rich anchoïade or a Piedmont bagna cauda are all good matches for rosé. Have some crusty bread or crudités for dipping or serve it on the side with shellfish. Prawns and lobster work with rosé, the colour association seems to enhance the match somehow, and wild salmon is in season from May 12th should you be lucky enough to know a fisherman or a good fishmonger. My final food suggestion for rosé is fried chicken, especially for richer rosé such as those from Spain and New Zealand.
My rosé suggestions below cover different price ranges and include a pet-nat, but if you really want to push the boat out try to find a Bandol such as Domaine Ott or better still Domaine Tempier (Mitchells have it for €40), Bandol rosé ages well so don't be afraid of older wines. Rosé Champagne or Crémant is always a good choice for barbecue, and if you spot a tangy dry Tavel from the Rhône, snap it up.
Le Petit Poulet Rosé, Rhône, France €8.99
Aldi have a few new rosé in stores for summer. This was the bargain of the bunch for me with candied red fruits and a touch of herbal complexity and a crisp finish.
Also due in stores this month is Isla Blanca Spanish Rosé (€9.99) which was my favourite in the Aldi tasting, and Sainte Victoire Provence Rosé (€13) which is not unlike a certain low talking angelic rosé you may have heard about…
Aldi
Folias de Baco, Uivo PT NatRosé, Portugal €24-25
From Tiago Sampaio who grew up in the Douro and created Folias de Baco in 2007 after taking over his grandfather's vineyard. MacCurtain Wine Cellar also stock Uivo's lively still rosé (€20) but if you haven't already, you should try their PetNat - yeasty raspberry aromas and flavours, bone dry and perfect for a bank holiday heralding the summer.
MacCurtain Wine Cellar; 64 Wines; Green Man; Baggot St.;
Minuty M Rosé, Provence, France €24
Minuty have just launched a limited edition version of their 'M' entry level rosé designed by Australian abstract artist Elliot Routledge. The family run estate is near St. Tropez (LVMH holds a majority stake) and their rosés are classy and tasty if expensive. Very pale pink with raspberry and floral aromas, a juicy crisp palate with texture and a pleasing tang of salty citrus.
JJ O'Driscolls; Basil; Corkscrew; Redmonds; Deveneys; Independents.
Spirit of the week: Glendalough Peated Pot Still Whiskey, 46% ABV, 70cl €70
This is a limited edition made from (peated) malt and unmalted barley, first aged in ex-bourbon and then four years in virgin oak casks from Wicklow.
Dark gold, almost mahogany colour, peat smoke and caramel aromas, luscious toffee apple and spice on the palate followed by pepper and clove and a delicious lingering nuttiness. A contender for whiskey of the year.
Celtic Whiskey Shop; Blackrock Cellar;
