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Sydney Morning Herald
08-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Sydney Morning Herald
This spirited Beaufort Street osteria both preserves and challenges Italian restaurant culture
In a maximalist dining room serving minimal intervention wines, a firebrand Perth chef is connecting the past and present of la cucina vera. Previous SlideNext Slide The legendary Alba white truffle. Beguiling Barbaresco and Barolo wines. The dainty filled pasta, agnolotti di plin: just three regional food and drink specialties one might associate with Piedmont in northern Italy. One of Piedmont's lesser-known foodstuffs, however, is Testun di Barolo. A cow and goat's milk cheese aged in grape skins, Testun is an example of formaggio ubriaco: 'drunken cheeses' preserved with wine and alcohol. Testun is also Piedmontese slang for a hard-headed person, which makes it a very apt name for a restaurant committed to doing Italian food its way. Where was your response to news that the Trequattrini family opened their brash Beaufort Street osteria three years ago? Broadly speaking, diners could be split into two groups: those that fell hard for Testun's maximalist decor and soundtrack that mashed together Saturday night at the club with Sunday lunch at nonna's house. And traditionalists that clutched their rosary beads at the presence of fermented soy butter and 'hulk sauce' on the menu, plus the word stronzo on the welcome mat. My initial reaction to Testun could best be described as one-foot-in-each-camp. I appreciated the thinking behind the concept, yet the music, the explosions of colour and the heavily worked nature of some dishes overwhelmed me. More wasn't always more. I'm not sure if it's because I've mellowed or the restaurant has, but Testun today feels like a tamer, more approachable beast that the restaurant that gatecrashed the Beaufort Street food scene circa 2022. You'll still be serenaded by more 4/4 kick drums than your average restaurant playlist, but the vibe no longer shouts 'rave'. Groups of 20-somethings sporting baggy, ankle-high pants and Carhartt still form a healthy chunk of the crowd here, yet so do family units including smartly dressed parents and grandparents wearing sensible shoes. Both sets of diners look right at home, thanks in no small part to the enthusiastic floor team led by restaurant manager Antonio di Senzo. He's also the person to quiz about the wine list: a collection of lo-fi, minimal intervention wines with a similar sense of fun as the restaurant. Testun's food also tastes a little more settled and focused. Gone is the cosmopolitan exuberance that defined many of the kitchen's earlier efforts: in its place, dishes cooked with generosity and a curiosity about globalism's impact on la cucina vera. This isn't Italian food that's been trapped in someone's grandmother's basement for decades, but rather Italian cooking that's been raised in Australia, but allowed to travel the World Wide Web. Or in the case of chef Christopher Caravella: although he spent more than a decade at his family's legendary Freo restaurant Capri, it was eating at suburban restaurants and takeaways as a kid that helped shape his palette. So that grilled skewer of ruffled mortadella sluiced with a zippy barbecue sauce and fingers of golden turmeric-stained pickles is an homage to a certain multinational fast food empire ruled by a clown named Ronald. Maple syrup and Vegemite lend the sweet and the salty to the whipped butter served alongside fat planks of fluffy, panettone-like focaccia. The bad news: team Testun no longer makes its own Umbrian-style salumi that starred on its opening menu. The good? They've sweet talked butcher Nathan Marinelli of Lot 24 into making bespoke, globetrotting sausages for the restaurant. Right now, the kitchen is rolling a salsiccia di pollo alla Siamese over its charcoal grill: Thai-inspired chicken snags sharp with galangal and lemongrass. Is Perth's dining scene entering some sort of sausage factory golden era? The signs are promising. Asian cookery also underpins herbal lamb rump braised in liquorice root and served on a bed of cooked coix: a white, barley-like grain also known as Job's Tears. If some Michelin-starred Italian chef was tasked with reworking Malaysian-style bak kut teh for the business class menu on ITA Airways (RIP Alitalia), it'd probably taste and look something like this. In a good way. Occasionally, the kitchen's creativity gets the better of it. I suspect some will find the fiery fermented chilli on the spicy tuna crostino too spicy. The crunch and char of coal-grilled spaghetti – a reinterpretation of fiery spaghetti all'assassina – left me confused. Yet it's testament to the vibrancy of Caravella's food that missteps like these haven't deterred me from returning, especially when such high-risk-high-reward cooking yields home runs a la a warm rice pudding dessert starring fennel-poached pears and golden clusters of caramelised cornflakes inspired by Honey Joys. At a time when fewer restaurants seem to be taking risks on their menus, bold thinking like this needs to be applauded. For all of Testun's renegade behaviour, it still upholds many (Italian) restaurant ideals. You can get a very classic Caesar salad. Family members and partners are key characters of the story, not least di Sanzo's partner and pasta maker Marta Rosati, while Caravella's sweetheart Martina Ciotti brings honey and kitchen power to the party.
The Age
08-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Age
This spirited Beaufort Street osteria both preserves and challenges Italian restaurant culture
In a maximalist dining room serving minimal intervention wines, a firebrand Perth chef is connecting the past and present of la cucina vera. Previous SlideNext Slide The legendary Alba white truffle. Beguiling Barbaresco and Barolo wines. The dainty filled pasta, agnolotti di plin: just three regional food and drink specialties one might associate with Piedmont in northern Italy. One of Piedmont's lesser-known foodstuffs, however, is Testun di Barolo. A cow and goat's milk cheese aged in grape skins, Testun is an example of formaggio ubriaco: 'drunken cheeses' preserved with wine and alcohol. Testun is also Piedmontese slang for a hard-headed person, which makes it a very apt name for a restaurant committed to doing Italian food its way. Where was your response to news that the Trequattrini family opened their brash Beaufort Street osteria three years ago? Broadly speaking, diners could be split into two groups: those that fell hard for Testun's maximalist decor and soundtrack that mashed together Saturday night at the club with Sunday lunch at nonna's house. And traditionalists that clutched their rosary beads at the presence of fermented soy butter and 'hulk sauce' on the menu, plus the word stronzo on the welcome mat. My initial reaction to Testun could best be described as one-foot-in-each-camp. I appreciated the thinking behind the concept, yet the music, the explosions of colour and the heavily worked nature of some dishes overwhelmed me. More wasn't always more. I'm not sure if it's because I've mellowed or the restaurant has, but Testun today feels like a tamer, more approachable beast that the restaurant that gatecrashed the Beaufort Street food scene circa 2022. You'll still be serenaded by more 4/4 kick drums than your average restaurant playlist, but the vibe no longer shouts 'rave'. Groups of 20-somethings sporting baggy, ankle-high pants and Carhartt still form a healthy chunk of the crowd here, yet so do family units including smartly dressed parents and grandparents wearing sensible shoes. Both sets of diners look right at home, thanks in no small part to the enthusiastic floor team led by restaurant manager Antonio di Senzo. He's also the person to quiz about the wine list: a collection of lo-fi, minimal intervention wines with a similar sense of fun as the restaurant. Testun's food also tastes a little more settled and focused. Gone is the cosmopolitan exuberance that defined many of the kitchen's earlier efforts: in its place, dishes cooked with generosity and a curiosity about globalism's impact on la cucina vera. This isn't Italian food that's been trapped in someone's grandmother's basement for decades, but rather Italian cooking that's been raised in Australia, but allowed to travel the World Wide Web. Or in the case of chef Christopher Caravella: although he spent more than a decade at his family's legendary Freo restaurant Capri, it was eating at suburban restaurants and takeaways as a kid that helped shape his palette. So that grilled skewer of ruffled mortadella sluiced with a zippy barbecue sauce and fingers of golden turmeric-stained pickles is an homage to a certain multinational fast food empire ruled by a clown named Ronald. Maple syrup and Vegemite lend the sweet and the salty to the whipped butter served alongside fat planks of fluffy, panettone-like focaccia. The bad news: team Testun no longer makes its own Umbrian-style salumi that starred on its opening menu. The good? They've sweet talked butcher Nathan Marinelli of Lot 24 into making bespoke, globetrotting sausages for the restaurant. Right now, the kitchen is rolling a salsiccia di pollo alla Siamese over its charcoal grill: Thai-inspired chicken snags sharp with galangal and lemongrass. Is Perth's dining scene entering some sort of sausage factory golden era? The signs are promising. Asian cookery also underpins herbal lamb rump braised in liquorice root and served on a bed of cooked coix: a white, barley-like grain also known as Job's Tears. If some Michelin-starred Italian chef was tasked with reworking Malaysian-style bak kut teh for the business class menu on ITA Airways (RIP Alitalia), it'd probably taste and look something like this. In a good way. Occasionally, the kitchen's creativity gets the better of it. I suspect some will find the fiery fermented chilli on the spicy tuna crostino too spicy. The crunch and char of coal-grilled spaghetti – a reinterpretation of fiery spaghetti all'assassina – left me confused. Yet it's testament to the vibrancy of Caravella's food that missteps like these haven't deterred me from returning, especially when such high-risk-high-reward cooking yields home runs a la a warm rice pudding dessert starring fennel-poached pears and golden clusters of caramelised cornflakes inspired by Honey Joys. At a time when fewer restaurants seem to be taking risks on their menus, bold thinking like this needs to be applauded. For all of Testun's renegade behaviour, it still upholds many (Italian) restaurant ideals. You can get a very classic Caesar salad. Family members and partners are key characters of the story, not least di Sanzo's partner and pasta maker Marta Rosati, while Caravella's sweetheart Martina Ciotti brings honey and kitchen power to the party.
Forbes
07-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Curt Frasca - From Producing Hit Records To Producing Barbera
Curt Frasca in his estate vineyards Barbera d'Asti is a curious wine, one that has appealing blackberry and black plum flavors with zippy acidity, but only moderate tannins. This flavor profile has made it popular with many consumers looking for a red wine with excellent character that you don't have to wait for several years before you drink it. Now Barbera doesn't have the glitzy identity that other reds from the Piedmont region, such as Barolo and Barbaresco have, wines that are produced from the Nebbiolo grape, with the best examples capable of aging for 20-30 years and even longer, but when you want to enjoy a medium-bodied red that works with so many foods, from barbecued ribs to pastas with tomato sauce to roast pork or chicken, Barbera d'Asti works beautifully. Curt Frasca produces several types of Barbera d'Asti, and is betting that consumers will turn to Barbera more often these days. I, for one wouldn't argue with him, especially based on his prior success. A native Long Islander, Frasca moved to New York City proper in his teens, and admits he was always fascinated by lights and buttons; this came from seeing the work of his father, who was employed by Grumman Aircraft Corporation, a company that NASA worked with for their space program. 'I always liked music, and somehow I found myself into recording on Long Island when I was very young - 12 or 13 - and that's how it started for me,' he remarks. Fracsa notes that this small studio on Long Island was the center for, the emergence of Hip Hop. 'I got the opportunity with Queen Latifah and 3rd Bass … it was the birth of sampling.' He then worked with De La Soul, whose popularity took off, as Frasca remembers. He then moved into the city at 16 or 17 years of age, and left school to become a mixer, and then a producer and songwriter. He followed that by starting a music publishing company; he enjoyed great success when he partnered with a private equity firm, basically buying copyrights and developing new artists. So how did he move from the recording business to owning a winery in Italy? 'After 20 years, I just walked away from the whole creative side of things.' He got into cooking, loved wine, and recalls that he just sort of dove into that interest. He started to travel to Europe and admits a fondness for Northern Italy. He immersed himself with Barolo and Barbaresco, but 'fell in love with Nizza and Monferrato.' (Monferrato is the territory in Asti province where Nizza, a more complex, richer and more distinctive version of Barbera d'Asti is produced). La Guaragna vineyard of Frasca Frasca currently produces various bottlings of Barbera d'Asti, including a charming, fruit-dominated version that I described as 'delicious," a term he approved of. His top two examples are both Nizza: one a blend of fruit from three communes, and the other labeled as Nizza La Veja; the latter is produced from the eponymous vineyard near Agliano Terme; the vines here are 90-plus-years old. There is also a very fine Grignolino and Freisa, as well as two whites: Riesling and a Monferrato Bianco, a blend of Arneis and Rhine Riesling. Frasca gives a lot of credit for his success at the winery to his winemaker Matteo Gerbi. Frasca recalls that his initial encounter was a chance meeting through acquaintances. 'We started talking, and I told him what I wanted to do. We saw the same thing; we really felt the same language, so it was cool … we met and it was meant to be.' Frasca remembers that Gerbi and he toured many vineyards, tasting everything they could; he also toured a barrel maker in Italy (Gamba) and even went to one company to see how the bottles were made. 'It was just a blank page, and it was from the soil up. That's sort of how it progressed, and how it continues.' Barbera vineyard in Agliano Terme used as a source for Frasca Barbera is the most widely planted red varietal in Piedmont, and for a long time, it's been considered an minor, everyday wine that perhaps is not anything special. Frasca however, sees things differently. 'It (the identity of Barbera) is changing because of Nizza. You know we're seeing it here at restaurants, and consumers are excited about Nizza; they're excited about the expression." What does Frasca have to say to consumers about Barbera? 'For me, what I like is the acid, but also when it's well balanced, it's a wine that goes well with a lot of different foods. One of the things I was fascinated by is its ageablity. When it's done right, the wines can age, and that was something we really focused on. You know we're still young - our first vintage was 2019.' Frasca is off to an impressive start; he has an excellent importer in New York City, as well as in Sweden and Japan, where sales are strong. But given his accomplishments in the music industry, would you expect anything less than notable success from him? Notes on current releases of Frasca wines: Monferrato Bianco 'Sèj' 2023 (Monferrato Bianco DOC) - A blend of 85% Arneis, 15% Rhine Riesling, aged in steel. Aromas of pear jelly, green apples and a hint of musk oil. Medium-bodied, with very good acidity, this offers very good freshness, and is cleanly made and quite tasty. Pair with lighter Oriental cuisine and enjoy over the next 2-3 years. (90) Freisa d'Asti 2023 (DOC) - 100% Freisa from grapes grown in the commune of Moasca; the vines average 20 years of age. There are 30% whole bunches; maturation for four months in large oak barrels. Bright, deep garnet with purple tints; aromas of cranberry, red plum, myrtle and violet. Medium-bodied, this is a fresh, easy drinking red, with very good acidity and moderate tannins that sneak up on you in the finish. Pair with tomato-based soups or lighter preparations of pork or chicken and enjoy over the next 3-5 years. (91) Barbera d'Asti 2021 (DOCG) - Aromas of blackberry, clove and lavender. Medium-bodied, with excellent ripeness, very good depth of fruit, lively acidity and moderate tannins. There is notable complexity and excellent typicity, along with very good persistence; the finish displays appealing notes of nutmeg and oregano. Very well made, this is delicious and is fine example of classic Barbera d'Asti. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. (92) Nizza 2021 (DOCG) - 100% Barbera from the communes of Nizza Monferrato, Agliano Terme and Moasca; the average of the vines is 30 years; matured for six months in large oak barrels. Bright ruby red/light purple; aromas of plum, myrtle, juniper, fennel, anise and lavender. Medium-full tannins that are round and well-integrated. Impressive typicity and complexity. Enjoy over the next 2-4 years. (92) Nizza La Veja 2020 (DOCG) - From a single vineyard in Agliano Terme; the vines are 90 plus-years old; matured for six months in an old large oak barrel. Medium deep ruby red; aromas of black plum, blackberry, myrtle and black pansy. Medium-full, there is good acidity, moderate tannins and good persistence, along with very fine typicity. This needs time in the glass to open up and also a year or two to display its best qualities. Peak in 4-5 years. (90)
Yahoo
17-02-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Barolo & Barbaresco World Opening Heads To Texas with Italian Wine Podcast
Italian Wine Podcast has officially partnered with Barolo & Barbaresco World Opening 2025. The series of events to promote Barolo and Barbaresco culminates on 25 March 2025 with a Grand Tasting event at the Branch Park Pavilion in Austin, Texas. The Italian Wine Podcast will be on hand throughout to provide the latest news, insights and analysis from this important event in the international wine calendar. NEW YORK, Feb. 17, 2025 /PRNewswire/ -- The Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani hosts the highly anticipated fourth edition of the Barolo & Barbaresco World Opening (BBWO), culminating with a Grand Tasting event at the Branch Park Pavillion in Austin, Texas on 25 March 2025 involving over 160 producers. In addition, the Barolo & Barbaresco Academy has delivered educational sessions across six major cities, offering wine professionals an unparalleled opportunity to explore the world of Barolo and Barbaresco wines. This immersive educational experience delved into the Langhe region's unique terroir and the diverse expressions of Barolo, Barbaresco and other Nebbiolo-based wines that this appellation offers. Over 200 participants explored the geology, climate, and history of the region, as well as perfect food pairings for Barolo and Barbaresco wines. This year, for the first time, the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe Dogliani has encompassed three southwestern States with educational events and dedicated tastings taking place in Texas (Dallas, Houston, Austin and San Antonio), Arizona (Phoenix) and Colorado (Denver). These three states are rapidly emerging as pivotal hubs for wine consumption in North America, with Texas standing out for its dynamic wine market and growing appreciation for high-quality wines. Together, these markets boast expanding communities of wine enthusiasts and a rising demand for premium and imported options, making them ideal settings to spotlight the wines of Piemonte. The Italian Wine Podcast BBWO Series has kicked off on 15 February 2025 with an exclusive interview with Sergio Germano, President of Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe Dogliani. The series, hosted by leading Texas-based wine journalist Jessica Dupuy, will be broadcast weekly with prominent figures from the US wine sector, including Steven McDonald Master Sommelier, Austin Farina, Ali Schmidt and Sandra Spalding, as well as real-time updates and engaging discussions across the podcast's digital platforms. Stevie Kim, founder of the Italian Wine Podcast, welcomed the new media partnership, adding: "We're thrilled to be back in Texas after Texsom—our second time in this dynamic market that's becoming ever more important for Italian wine. As an official media partner, the Italian Wine Podcast is excited to share the incredible stories behind Barolo and Barbaresco, and we look forward to showcasing how these iconic wines continue to captivate the North American audience." Sergio Germano, recently elected President of the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, also welcomed the new partnership. "Barolo and Barbaresco wines are renowned worldwide and through this media partnership with the Italian Wine Podcast, we aim to deepen appreciation for these iconic wines. By working together, we're not only sharing the legacy of these exceptional wines but also fostering a greater understanding of the Langhe region's unique terroir and its crucial role in representing the Italian wine industry worldwide" More information about the work of the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani can be found at Listen on SoundCloud, iTunes, Spotify, Stitcher and XimalayaFM Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and LinkedIn About the Italian Wine Podcast: Cin Cin with Italian Wine People! launched in 2017 as a project dedicated exclusively to the Italian wine world. The program uncovers the unique world of Italian wine in conversation with some of its key protagonists. Under the umbrella brand of Mamma Jumbo Shrimp, Italian Wine Podcast aims to inform, educate, and entertain listeners with content for wine professionals and casual listeners alike. The only daily wine podcast in the world, content includes wine business, food & travel, diversity and inclusion, wine producers, science, and marketing and communication. Italian Wine Podcast is available on SoundCloud, iTunes, Spotify, Stitcher, XimalayaFM (for China), and on the official website. It now boasts over 2000 recorded episodes with a growing online following of nearly 7 million listens. Donations to the show are welcomed and help fund a portion of the show's equipment, production, and publication costs. To advertise in the show, please request a prospectus and/or customized advertising plan from info@ Cin Cin! Media Contact Italian Wine PodcastPh. +39.045.8101447info@ View original content to download multimedia: SOURCE Italian Wine Podcast Sign in to access your portfolio
Yahoo
29-01-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Landmarks Presents: The Barolo & Barbaresco Academy Series, Set To Take Over The Southwest
The Academy Series will kick off in February 2025, showcasing Barolo and Barbaresco wines in six major southwestern cities AUSTIN, Texas, Jan. 29, 2025 /PRNewswire/ -- The Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani proudly announces the Barolo & Barbaresco Academy Series, a flagship initiative of the fourth edition of the Barolo & Barbaresco World Opening (BBWO). For the first time, this program will visit six cities across three southwestern states, hosting seminars and tastings in Dallas, Houston, Austin, and San Antonio, Texas; Phoenix, Arizona; and Denver, Colorado. The initiative is part of the European communication campaign "Landmarks from Europe: Good products made with respect, Respect made with good products" which aims to raise awareness of PDO and DOCG products in the U.S. and Canadian markets. Kicking off in February 2025, the Academy Series offers wine professionals and enthusiasts an exclusive opportunity to deepen their knowledge of Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Led by Consorzio representatives, renowned Master Sommeliers, and Wine Experts speakers, the sessions will offer an in-depth exploration of the Langhe region. Attendees will gain insights into the human stories that have shaped the area, from the legacy of the Barolo Boys to the influence of international investors, and how these factors have been defining Langhe's identity. The discussions will also delve into the natural elements that make this region unique, including its terroir, soil composition, the concept of MGAs (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive), and key data from recent harvest reports. With registration fully booked in all cities, the Academy's success highlights the growing interest in Piedmont wines across the Southwest. "I am extremely proud of the remarkable success of the Academy Series. These cities are emerging as key players in the U.S. wine scene, with Texas leading the way thanks to its vibrant market and growing appreciation for premium wines," said Sergio Germano, the newly elected President of the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani. "It is a privilege for the Consorzio to collaborate with renowned local wine experts to showcase Barolo and Barbaresco wines to such an enthusiastic audience, fostering an even greater admiration for our wines." Academy Dates, Locations, and Hosts: Dallas | Monday, February 3, 2025, | 55 Seventy, 6130 Berkshire LaneHost: Steven McDonald, MS (Wine Director at Pappas Bros Steakhouses) Houston | Tuesday, February 4, 2025 | The Texas Wine School, 2301 Portsmouth StreetHost: Steven McDonald, MS Austin | Wednesday, February 5, 2025 | Jeffrey's, 1204 W Lynn StreetHost: Austin Farina (Wine Director at Jeffrey's) San Antonio | Thursday, February 6, 2025 | The Texas Wine School, 2810 N. Flores StreetHost: Ali Schmidt (Wine Director at Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group) Phoenix | Monday, February 10, 2025 | Wrigley Mansion, 2501 E Telawa TrailHost: Jodi Bronchtein (Wine Director at Wrigley Mansion) Denver | Tuesday, February 11, 2025 | Birch Road Clubhouse (The Highlands), 3845 Lipan StreetHost: Maddy Jimerson, MS (Wine Director at Casa Tua, Aspen) The Academy Series anticipates the Barolo & Barbaresco World Opening on March 25, 2025, at The Branch Park Pavilion in Austin, TX. The event will bring together wine enthusiasts, industry professionals, and media for a day of insightful tastings, and curated food pairings, showcasing the latest releases of the 2021 Barolo and 2022 Barbaresco vintages from over 160 renowned producers as a preview for the US market. About the Consorzio Di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani: Founded in 1934 and representing over 600 wine producers across multiple appellations, the consortium is committed to the management, protection, and promotion of the Langhe, Alba, and Dogliani wine denominations. The Consortium ensures high quality by a set of formal production guidelines for the entire winemaking process, from agronomy to market surveillance. The Consortium continues to perform periodic sampling of wine products on the market to prevent fraud and to protect the wines' authentication and reputation. Barolo & Barbaresco are registered trademarks in many countries throughout the world. Contact:Carlotta Ribolinicribolini@ Morgana Germanettomgermanetto@ View original content to download multimedia: SOURCE Landmarks from Europe
