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Cetia develops AI-powered system to sort garments for recycling
Cetia, a European platform focused on the automated sorting and dismantling of garments and footwear, has introduced the Sensor Hub—an AI-powered textile sorting system developed to meet the technical needs of textile recyclers. The organization is now seeking a sorting expert to lead testing during the system's pre-industrial phase.
Launched in 2021 through a partnership between Estia—the engineering school of the Bayonne Basque Country Chamber of Commerce—and CETI, the European Center for Innovative Textiles, Cetia aims to play a central role in developing France's textile recycling industry. 'But this goal can't be achieved without large-scale sorting operations,' explained Chloé Salmon-Legagneur, general director of Cetia, in an interview with
The Sensor Hub consists of multiple components. Two-dimensional and three-dimensional sensors identify colors, while an X-ray system, developed in partnership with Brustia, detects 'hard points' such as buttons, zippers, and rivets. A hyperspectral camera and an infrared sensor scan the entire width of each garment to determine fiber composition—an advantage over other spectrometers that only analyze a single point, requiring garments to be pre-sorted to remove embroidery or blended materials.
The system is powered by an artificial intelligence algorithm developed and trained in-house by Cetia. The next step is to test it under real-world conditions using actual waste streams handled by sorting centers. 'The system needs to be exposed to the kinds of materials currently processed in the field,' explained Salmon-Legagneur. Cetia is now seeking a sorting expert to oversee this trial phase.
According to Salmon-Legagneur, there is growing urgency across the sector. 'If we don't move into a pre-industrial development phase now, France risks falling behind on its 2028 targets,' she warned, stressing the need for funding. 'It's unrealistic to expect collection and sorting operators to bear the full cost of industrializing sorting technologies. There's also significant potential in pre-processing—particularly in 'delissage,' or the removal of hard points like buttons and zippers, which is essential for reducing costs at scale.'
Headquartered in Hendaye, Cetia is urging recyclers—the intended users of its automated sorting system—to share their technical requirements as early as possible. Doing so will help identify potential constraints upfront and enable the technology to be adjusted accordingly. This transparency is also key to gaining the trust of brands. 'They're ready to collaborate with suppliers to incorporate recycled materials,' said Salmon-Legagneur, 'but they need reassurance that a stable and consistent supply will be available before they commit to reconfiguring their supply chains.'
Beyond national and EU-level initiatives and ongoing conversations around France's textile recycling strategy, Salmon-Legagneur emphasized the importance of enabling localized infrastructure for collection, sorting, and recycling.
In 2023, France collected 268,161 tons of clothing. Only 22.6% of that total went to recycling. As the country prepares to renegotiate the certification of Refashion—the eco-organization in charge of end-of-life textile management—both public authorities and the apparel industry are working to raise that percentage.
