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New York Times
28-05-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
Cronuts and ‘Pizza Rat': New York, as Told Through Its Dining Scene
When asked to choose her favorite restaurant in New York City, which has some 23,000 diners, delis and other dining establishments, Becky Hughes has clear favorites: Grand Central Oyster Bar in Midtown Manhattan, Sunn's in Chinatown and Rolo's in Ridgewood. 'They have these wood-fired polenta breads as appetizers,' Ms. Hughes, an editor for the Food section of The New York Times, said of Rolo's. 'There's one with Calabrian chili butter that I wake up in the middle of the night thinking about.' When Ms. Hughes and other editors and reporters on the Food section were tasked this spring with selecting moments that have influenced New York City's food scene over the last 25 years, the answers weren't so obvious. Which chef or restaurant has influenced the culinary scene more than all the rest? Are food trends like the Cronut, rainbow bagels and Pinkberry's frozen yogurt really worth including? The team published the work this month, serving up an interactive timeline of restaurants, trends, dishes and moments that have changed how New Yorkers eat, like the debut of Resy and the proliferation of pandemic-era dining sheds. In an interview, Ms. Hughes, who lives in Lower Manhattan, discussed the process of capturing 25 years in one article and the moments she wishes had made the cut. These are edited excerpts. How did this project start? In January, the Food section was brainstorming articles we should work on this year. I wanted to do something that marked the end of the first quarter of the century. We talked about doing a project focused on 25 restaurants that changed New York over the past 25 years, but we ultimately decided on an approach that could capture both small and big moments, and go beyond just pivotal restaurant openings. How did you narrow down 25 years into a single article? It was definitely hard, and I'm still thinking of moments that I wish made the article. Obviously, if we had included everything we wanted, it would be 25 years' worth of scrolling. So we made some compromises. We put a call out to the entire Food desk, and had everyone think of moments over the last 25 years — any trend, restaurant, chef, dish — and went from there. We categorized things by year and narrowed down the things that we felt were most important in each year. We wanted to have 12 restaurant moments, specific to openings or closings, and have them written by contributors. So we reached out to contributors across the newsroom and pitched them all on writing an excerpt. What moment surprised you most when looking back at New York's food scene? When I was looking into this, I was like, OK, there's got to be a moment about kale. When did New York get into kale? I found a story from Melissa Clark, who, in 2007, wrote about the kale salad at Franny's in Brooklyn. She wrote about how putting raw kale in a salad was so unusual at the time that the chef had to know what they were doing. It would be bizarre not to see a kale salad on a menu now. You mentioned moments that you wish made the article. What were those? In 2002, Britney Spears opened a restaurant, Nyla, in New York that was short-lived. It was right when she and Justin Timberlake broke up. The restaurant didn't really have any significance in New York, so it didn't make the cut, but I loved that it captured the early aughts in pop culture dovetailing with New York's restaurant scene. When finding moments, did you find that some years were harder than others? Some years there was just endless stuff. For some reason, 2015 was huge — there was Four Horsemen, Pizza Rat, all of these delivery apps, Queens Night Market. For 2001, it was obvious that we had to figure out 9/11's effects on restaurants in the city. And 2002 was tough because the city was recovering. Finding the more recent moments was the most difficult part. When you're so close to the food-trend cycle and restaurants, it feels impossible to pull yourself out of it, and figure out which of these trends is going to be lasting and significant long-term. How did you decide which had staying power? Some were obvious enough — like Dimes Square as a so-called microneighborhood named after a restaurant, or the advent of TikTok and its effect on restaurants. We talked about all of these things ad nauseam and trusted one another's gut feelings about what mattered and what didn't. What else would you have included in 2025 if given the chance? So many restaurateurs and bar owners whom I talked to are concerned about alcohol falling off in New York, and they're noticing it in really stark ways. I think that the moment would have something to do with low-A.B.V. drinks or zero-proof cocktails on menus at all the zeitgeisty places. How did you develop an interest in cooking and food? I was a picky eater growing up, and that's actually what led me to learning to cook. When I went to college in New York, I was so excited about the food. To me, bakeries, restaurants, food shopping — all of those things became my framework for learning the city. What were you picky about? My parents joked that I would change my mind every day about what I liked. Like, I would love peas, and then one day my dad would serve peas, and I'd say, 'I've always hated peas.' I was just unpredictable like that. Learning how to cook gave me some semblance of control over my whims at the time.
The Guardian
04-05-2025
- General
- The Guardian
How to make the perfect vegan caesar salad – recipe
If I've learned anything from almost 40 days of plant-based eating, it's that an homage doesn't have to be indistinguishable from the original to hit the same spot; it simply needs to sing equivalent notes to much the same tune. Those notes, in this case, are a green salad, a thick, umami-spiked dressing and savoury croutons, all tossed in a pitch-perfect combination of flavours (milky lettuce, salty fish, rich fat) and textures (crisp leaves, creamy dressing, crunchy toasted bread). So, while the recipe below isn't pretending to be an authentic classic caesar, consider it a very decent and, I hope, similarly pleasing cover version. The caesar is a simple salad, however much people like to complicate it with toppings and other nonsense (of which more later), which means it stands and falls on its dressing. Yes, we can and will argue about whether it's acceptable to deviate from the usual cos lettuce, but, really, the leaves are a mere vehicle to convey this rich, fiercely savoury substance from bowl to mouth; a fig leaf of fibre floating on a lake of 'good' fats. The problem here is that, in its original form, the dressing, which gets its substance from egg yolk and much of its flavour from salty little anchovies, is very much not vegan-friendly. My first task was to replace the egg yolk. I tried several bases: cashews, as recommended by Becky Hughes in the New York Times; almonds and silken tofu, as used by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero in their book Veganomicon; Ashley Madden's tahini, from her Plant-Based Cookbook; and Ixta Belfrage's coconut yoghurt and Tom Hunt's aquafaba, both from the Guardian recipe archive. All work, but my testers and I aren't overly keen on the flavour of coconut here, and find the cashews a little sweet and grainy – soaking, we surmise, might have helped with the texture, or perhaps I might just need to invest in a more powerful blender (there seems to be a lot of blending involved in vegan cookery, I'm discovering). Silken tofu and tahini both work well, the former giving a lighter, creamier result that's more reminiscent of that other great American favourite, ranch dressing, and the latter blending in better than I anticipate, but the overall favourite is Hunt's aquafaba. This, for anyone new to Guardian food content, is the cooking water from tinned chickpeas (the cooking liquor of home-cooked ones is apparently less reliable, because the liquid can be less concentrated). Though some people find it has a slightly leguminous flavour, if you can taste it here you simply haven't added enough garlic. Once whizzed up with the same olive oil used in the classic caesar dressing, it has a surprisingly voluptuous richness that works a treat, especially with a few chickpeas thrown in to stabilise the emulsion, as suggested by J Kenji López-Alt on Serious Eats. The flavourings I find easier to pin down. In keeping with tradition, there will be garlic (I infuse the olive oil with it) and lemon juice, but instead of salty anchovies, I like the idea of Hughes and Veganomicon's caper brine. You could stick in some whole capers, too, as Hunt and Madden do, but I prefer the deeper, richer savouriness of Belfrage and Hughes' white miso paste (the lightest, sweetest variety, ideally). I prefer the miso to Hunt's vegan Worcestershire sauce, which, like Madden's cider vinegar and maple syrup combo, brings sweet-and-sour notes that I don't remember in the original. The same goes for the coconut sugar in Veganomicon's version and, much as I enjoy mustard (Madden uses dijon, Chandra Moskowitz and Hope Romero mustard powder), I don't think it has a place in a caesar dressing. To try to mimic a little of the maritime notes of the fish, I've crumbled in some of Hughes' roasted nori – my testers are divided as to whether the seaweed actually tastes anything like anchovies, or whether the effect is purely psychosomatic, but, because plant-based diets tend to be low in iodine, it feels like a good addition either way. I've also added some cheesy nutritional yeast, because, while the cheese goes on top of a traditional caesar salad, in this case it's useful to include another source of umami in the dressing itself. As usual, however, you may like to adjust to taste, adding more or less of any of the above as you fancy. As Madden writes: 'Kale caesar salads are popular for a good reason – they're incredible!' I first came across the idea in New York more than a decade ago and would echo her enthusiasm – the dressing clings to the frills of both her curly kale and Hughes' cavolo nero with far more enthusiasm than to even the most meticulously dried cos. But, having removed the eggs, anchovies and parmesan from the equation, I feel I at least ought to stick with the original lettuce. Should you be braver in the privacy of your own home, other suggestions include Belfrage's cucumber, Veganomicon's spinach or rocket and Hunt's wild sea kale, dulse and dandelion leaves (OK, I couldn't get hold of the sea kale in central London, but, Tom, I did raid the garden weeds for you and can confirm that well-rinsed dandelion leaves are deliciously bitter). Whatever you use, I'd recommend tearing or cutting it into bite-sized pieces, and drying it very well after washing, so the dressing coats it, rather than sliding off into a watery mess. You might also, as Belfrage does, fancy popping in some herbs – she suggests chives and basil, both of which pair beautifully with the other flavours here. Croutons are a must in a caesar salad – I like to keep them fairly simple and bite-sized. I bake them, but, as Hunt's recipe proves, they can be made successfully in a frying pan, too, which will use less energy, as would an air fryer. But you might like to get fancy and, like Belfrage, coat them in sesame seeds, maple syrup and chilli, or in Chandra Moskowitz and Hope Romero's roast garlic and lemon juice. Fried, air-fried or baked, make sure they're nice and crunchy, so leave the crusts on to help with that. Both Madden and Hughes top their salads with chickpeas – roasted until crisp in Hughes' case, fried in a smoky spice mix for Madden – while Hunt recommends walnuts. Your choice, but I don't think the salad needs either. But I do like it topped with a blizzard of parmesan, which is where Madden's 'cashew turmeric parmesan' comes in, made from blitzed nuts, sesame seeds, nutritional yeast and turmeric for colour. Sceptical as I am, I really enjoy it – it tastes more one-dimensionally, almost artificially 'cheesy' than actual parmesan, but with the creamy dressing and blandly crisp leaves as a foil, it works. That said, I've left out the sesame seeds in my copy-cat version, because I don't think they add anything to the experience. Heap it over the top, or replace with your favourite vegan parmesan alternative as you wish. If you want to bulk out the salad, top it with smoked tofu, seitan or similar, but I think it's pretty damn perfect as it is. Prep 15 min Cook 20 min Serves 2-4 as a side 1 thick slicecrusty bread (about 100g)Salt and black pepper1 large cos lettuce, or 2 little gems, washed and well dried For the dressing1 plump garlic clove 100ml olive oil 4 tbsp aquafaba (ie, the liquid from a tin of chickpeas)10 cooked chickpeas 6cm x 6cm piece dried nori, crumbled (optional)2 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp caper brine 2 tsp white miso paste 2 tbsp nutritional yeast For the cashew 'parmesan' (optional)35g unsalted cashews, plus a small handful extra to finish 2 tsp nutritional yeast ¼ tsp turmeric Scant ¼ tsp fine salt Crush the garlic into the oil and leave to infuse while you get on with everything else. Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 and cut the bread, crusts and all, into crouton-sized chunks. Put these on a baking tray, drizzle over a little of the garlicky oil and sprinkle with salt. Toss the bread to coat, then bake for about 20 minutes, turning over once halfway, until golden all over. Meanwhile, put the aquafaba, chickpeas, nori, lemon juice, caper brine, miso and nutritional yeast in a container just wide enough to fit the head of a stick blender. Whizz until completely smooth, then, still whizzing, gradually trickle in the remaining garlic-infused oil, running it slowly down the side of the container, until you have a creamy dressing. Season to taste. In a mini chopper, pulse all the ingredients for the cashew 'parmesan', if making,until reduced to a rough powder; don't overdo it, though, or you'll end up with nut butter. Tear the lettuce into bite-sized pieces and put them in a large bowl. Add just over half the dressing and a good spoonful of the cashew mixture, if using, and toss to coat (add more dressing, if necessary). Transfer to a serving bowl or plates, then top with the croutons, a sprinkle of extra cashews and a good grind of black pepper. Serve with the rest of the dressing on the side, for people to add as they wish. Vegan caesar salad – assuming the very concept doesn't have you rushing for the anchovies and eggs, what's the secret to success? And, given how much fun this piece was to research, which other classic recipes would you like to see plant-based alternatives for?
