06-05-2025
Victor Garvey review: ‘Wonderful guy, my favourite kind of chef'
T he first time I ate Victor Garvey's cooking, I didn't even know I was doing it. I was sitting outside a new tapas joint in St Katharine Docks, in the gastronomic desert of Tower Hamlets, on a sunny afternoon in the spring of 2014, climbing into a bottle of albarino with a colleague, because it was just down the road from The Times. Bravas Tapas was nestled in the new development between a Côte, a Strada and a Ping Pong (remember Ping Pong?) and we didn't hold out much hope for the food.
But the manzanilla was good and the albarino was cold and there was nothing wrong with the olives and smoked almonds, or the anchovies served wittily in a sardine tin (before tinned
