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The Guardian
02-05-2025
- The Guardian
Dopamine drive: the road trip to happiness lies along the adventure-filled coast of Ireland
A classic road trip can deliver all the ingredients for the ultimate holiday: freedom, adventure and unlimited carpe diem delights. However, combine two epic routes together – the Causeway Coastal Route in Northern Ireland with Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way – and you'll double up on unique attractions, incredible foodie stops and the most soul-soothing of landscapes. In fact, it's little wonder that driving the highlights of these routes, from basalt cliffs to seaside saunas and from secret beaches to a legendary city, can have long-lasting wellness benefits too. 'An open-road holiday adventure can have immense mental health benefits,' says Donegal-based psychotherapist and mental wellness expert Roxane Mullen. 'That sense of anticipation when road tripping, getting in touch with nature, and broadening your perspective through new experiences, are all proven ways of boosting mood and enhancing emotional healing and I think the Causeway Coastal Route and Wild Atlantic Way are the perfect settings to do just that.' So what are you waiting for? Here is our highlight by highlight road-trip guide featuring my top recommendations to eat, stay and play along the way. The Gobbins cliff path, County Antrim. Photograph: Dillon Osborne You may have plenty of miles of road ahead of you, but this road trip takes legendary status at the official starting point of the Causeway Coastal Route in Carrickfergus, home to a stunning 12th-century Norman castle. Beyond it, your journey continues north through scenic coastline flanked by the lush Glens of Antrim, where the romantic village of Cushendun and the spectacular Torr Head make for Instagram-perfect photo stops. Between the mainland and Scotland, keep an eye out for Rathlin Island, the island of Ireland's northernmost inhabited offshoot, which makes for a colourful excursion; not least as it's home to no less than three lighthouses (one of which is upside down!) plus a lively puffin colony. Back in the friendly town of Ballycastle, the Ballycastle Traditional Music Trail takes you through the best local watering holes, while guided by talented musicians. The cliffs above the Giant's Causeway, County Antrim (top). Photograph: Kyle Brickley; Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, County Antrim (below). Photograph: Rob Durston/Tourism Northern Ireland Where to stay: a self-catering stay at Blackhead Lighthouse near Carrickfergus is a coastal dream, while there's no more characterful break along the coast than the Bushmills Inn – it's one of the oldest hotels around, having been a coaching inn as far back as the 1600s. Must-see and do: to see the Gobbins cliff walk from a different perspective, try a stand-up paddleboarding trip with Islandmagee SUP. Crossing the one-of-a-kind Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge takes your road trip to new heights. The Causeway Coastal Route is dotted with star attractions, but this leg of the tour features the legendary blockbuster that is the Giant's Causeway. Tip? Arriving at the Unesco world heritage site for sunrise (or indeed sunset) when its hexagonal basalt columns shimmer by the surf and light, is truly mesmerising. Back on the road, chase the sun north-west and you'll find a coast gilded by the shores of Portrush, Portstewart and Benone beaches, all of which make enticing pitstops. In the latter, Hotbox is an authentic Finnish sauna and soothing spot to refresh after a wild Atlantic plunge. It has the added bonus of having the iconic Mussenden Temple as a backdrop and you can admire it with a walk along the seven-mile stretch of beach. Next up, the ever-vibrant city of Derry~Londonderry brings some urban flavour to your road trip. The history-steeped town holds the distinction of being the island of Ireland's only fully walled city – the 1.5 km of walls were a 17th century addition to protect the inhabitants and you can get a good idea of the original town from the walkway. A guided tour with Martin McCrossan City Walking Tours offers a friendly and fascinating insight into the city's storied past and dynamic present. Bearings gathered, uncover attractions from the Museum of Free Derry to The Derry Girls Experience at the Tower Museum – a must-visit for lovers of the iconic series (or simply 90s nostalgia!). Hotbox on Benone beach, County Londonderry. Photograph: Dillon Osborne Where to stay: Derry~Londonderry's newest hotel and spa, the Ebrington, makes for an elegant city base, while Cromore Retreat's luxury bubble dome suites allow you to sleep under the stars. Where to eat and drink: the Walled City Brewery is a happening spot to eat and drink in Derry~Londonderry, while Harry's Shack at Portstewart Strand is a vibe all of its own for seafood and sundowners. Must-see and do: pick up locally made souvenirs at the Craft Village, tucked within the city's old town. Along the Causeway coast, Dunluce Castle makes for a phenomenal photo-stop. The northern lights. Photograph: Tourism Ireland With Derry~Londonderry and the Causeway Coastal Route in your rearview, steer onwards to County Donegal where you'll join the epic Wild Atlantic Way for the next stage of your adventure. The island's profusion of peninsulas make for enticing touring shoot-offs. There's Fanad, famed for its beautiful lighthouse, and Malin Head on Inishowen, Ireland's most northerly point, where you can bask in long summer nights or luck out with a display of northern lights activity. To ramp up the great escape even more, immerse yourself in island life with a visit to Arranmore, Tory or Gola islands or to get active, kayak along their crystal clear coasts – keep an eye out for basking sharks that regularly fish in the waters. Continuing south, take a timeout at the spectacular Glenveagh national park, an unbridled hikers' paradise, where you ramble through valley routes as golden eagles soar above you. Dolphins at Malin Head, County Donegal (top); Wild Alpaca Way, County Donegal (below) offers hiking outings. Photographs: Gareth Wray Where to stay: Lough Mardal's glamping yurts make a colourful base in nature, while Harvey's Point hotel at Lough Eske is a hallmark in Irish hospitality. Where to eat and drink: tuck into seafood and chowder to wow at Nancy's Barn in Ballyliffin, while Olde Glen Bar & Restaurant is a delicious, Michelin Guide gem. Must-see and do: meet bears and wolves at Wild Ireland; a refuge for some of Ireland's former native species, while for a more domesticated brush with nature, Wild Alpaca Way offers hiking outings, where you'll be accompanied by your own biddable alpaca. Surfing at Strandhill beach, County Sligo. Photograph: Brian Morrison County Donegal is renowned for its dramatic landscapes – and seascapes – and they don't get more awesome than at Sliabh Liag (Slieve League), one of Europe's highest sea cliffs which, at a staggering 600 metres, is an epic spot to catch – or lose – your breath at. Inhale the epic scenes from the magnificent viewing platform or get up close with their towering face aboard Sliabh Liag Boat Tours. Continue south to neighbouring Leitrim; and while the county may be home to Ireland's shortest coastline (not quite 2.4 miles!) that belies a trove of undiscovered treasures, not least Glencar waterfall, which you'll find cascading over a backdrop of lush native rainforest with a cinematic magic. Your Wild Atlantic Way journey finally brings you to County Sligo – meaning place of shells in Irish, as well as being 'Yeats country' on account of the stunning landscapes that so inspired the poet – which makes an invigorating base to crescendo any coastal road trip. As Ireland's unofficial surfing capital, Sligo's beaches are the perfect setting to unleash your adventurous side and Strandhill is home of the National Surf Centre and its three surf schools, which offer lessons for all levels. Reward yourself and recoup your energy at Hooked in Sligo Town. It's nothing to do with fishing – the restaurant name comes from the hooks in a traditional butcher's shop. That said, as well as fine meats, locally caught seafood is on the menu and it does a good line in breakfast and brunch. Sliabh Liag cliffs, County Donegal, from the water. Photograph: Tristan Hutchinson/Failte Ireland Where to stay: the Address in Sligo town makes an excellent-value boutique base; in Donegal, Lough Eske Castle makes a fairytale luxury escape. Where to eat and drink: taste the best of local produce with Sligo Food Trail or check out some Donegal whiskey at Crolly Distillery. Must-see and do: step back in time at Glencolmcille folk village, if you're brave, climb sea stacks, or soak in the sweeping panoramas at Mullaghmore Head. Discover more at
NZ Herald
28-04-2025
- NZ Herald
Six incredible food tours in Europe, from Netherlands to Northern Ireland
WHISKEY GALORE – Northern Ireland Amid the green fields on Northern Ireland's County Antrim coast near the world-famous Giant's Causeway, where the winds blow and the water is clean and pure, is a small town that is home to Old Bushmills, the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in the world, established in 1608. Take a tour to learn more about the whiskey-making process - one that takes malted barley, grinds it up into a mash with water and then distils it before putting it in oak casks to mature. The tour finishes with the best bit – a taste test in the distillery bar. No Northern Ireland whiskey experience is complete without a visit to a local pub or two, and well worth a visit is the Bushmills Inn, where you can enjoy a glass of 25-year-old Bushmills Malt from the inn's private cask by the cosy glow of an open peat fire. THE BIG CHEESE – Italy With its fine local produce of hams, handmade pastas and balsamic vinegars, the Italian province of Emilia Romagna has a rich culinary tradition. But its most famous product is undoubtedly Parmigiano Reggiano, a hard, granular cheese with a rich, nutty and slightly salty flavour. Better known as parmesan cheese, this 'King of Italian cheeses' has been in existence for around 700 years and is so valuable that it was once accepted as currency. Dotting the hills and valleys around Parma are the dairies and cheese houses where the prized wheels of cheese are produced using a method little changed over the centuries. The Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese Consortium conducts visits and guided tours to the region's cheese-making dairies where you will discover what makes Parmigiano Reggiano so special, including its long and careful aging process of up to 24 months or more. THE SPIRIT OF NORMANDY – France 160 Just over an hour's drive from Paris is Normandy's Pays d'Auge region – a picturesque landscape of small villages, rolling meadows, russet-coloured apple orchards and half-timbered farmsteads. This is where highly-prized apple-based drinks such as robust ciders and especially Calvados are produced. This fiery apple brandy takes its name from a ship that sailed in the ill-fated Spanish Armada of 1588, and has been distilled with typical French passion for more than 400 years. To learn more, enjoy a tour at Manoir d'Apreval, a family-owned estate surrounded by a lovely apple orchard in the village of Pennedepie (10km east of Deauville) that creates a line of fine Calvados and ciders made in small presses from 17 varieties of apples. Double distillation, in addition to the apples originating in the Pays d' Auge region are requirements for Calvados to achieve the AOC label (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée), the highest honour that can be bestowed on a French product. PINCHOS TIME IN LA RIOJA - Spain Right in the heart of La Rioja's capital city of Logrono s Calle del Laurel, famous for some of northern Spain's finest pinchos bars. Pinchos (also called pintxos) are the Basque region's take on tapas, basically snack-size portions of food, from simple tortilla Espanola (potato omelette) or anchovies on bread, to more elaborate miniature creations of haute cuisine. They are usually cheap, and when paired with a glass of local red wine, usually cost only a few euros. For an expert's view and to learn more about the marriage of Rioja wines and pinchos, book a guided tour to sample Rioja and pinchos pairings in a variety of bars with Jose Berger, otherwise known as the Wine Educator. 'Going out for pinchos is a great social activity, and I love nothing more than getting a group of friends together and visiting some favourite spots,' says José. ALL BEERS GREAT AND SMALL – England Brewing beer in the English county of Yorkshire has a long and distinguished heritage. For a fascinating insight into the workings of a traditional brewery, visit Masham's Theakston Brewery established in 1827. There's plenty to see and do including the working cooperage, where one of the country's last remaining coopers still handcrafts barrels using traditional tools. Guided tours of the brewery are available, after which you can sample the fine range of beers in the brewery tap. Try the legendary dark and rich Theakston's Old Peculier served from wooden casks (also available as an alcohol free 0.0% version called Nowt Peculier), or one of the newer creations like coffee flavoured Barista Stout or Hairy Bikers Zesty IPA. Also of interest to the beer aficionado is the rival Black Sheep Brewery next door who also offer brewery tours.
