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Malay Mail
24-05-2025
- Malay Mail
Savour this aromatic and umami-rich Thai claypot glass noodles with prawns
KUALA LUMPUR, May 24 – One of my favourite Thai dishes is the one-dish wonder goong ob woon sen or claypot glass noodles with prawns. Heady with aromatics such as ginger, garlic, peppercorns and cilantro roots, these translucent cellophane noodles – made of mung bean starch – soak up all the umami-rich sauce during cooking. You taste the sweet prawns, the briny sauce, the funk of the nam pla (fish sauce). I remember how we'd head to our usual Thai seafood restaurants in Bangkok, barely hours after landing and checking into our hotel, to enjoy this as our first meal of the trip. It's that good. Best of all its status as a one-pot dish means there are fewer utensils to wash up once you're done with dinner. More time to binge watch your latest Thai show obsession on GMMTV or ONE 31 afterwards, chai mai? Dry glass noodles. — Picture by CK Lim THAI CLAYPOT GLASS NOODLES WITH PRAWNS (GOONG OB WOON SEN) Despite its name, I usually cook this in a normal pot rather than a claypot, preferably one large enough to feed 2-3 people. (When dining alone, I halve the recipe and use my trusty one-person claypot.) Also fret not: though it involves quite a number of ingredients, the dish is fairly straightforward. The approach is one of layering: First the pork lard at the bottom of the pot; its rendered fat will grease the base and prevent any food from sticking. Then the pounded aromatics will gently sauté and perfume the entire pot. Ginger is an essential part of the aromatics. — Picture by CK Lim Next in goes the glass noodles, soaked in the sauces, and the prawns. Cover with the lid and cook till done. Simple and easy! One thing to note is to read the instructions on your packet of glass noodles (or tong fun in Cantonese) before soaking them. Some brands may require only a few minutes; others require at least half an hour. Finally I like to add some cabbage for extra fibre, though it's not traditional nor compulsory. The cabbage holds up better to the cooking time than more delicate leafy greens. Ingredients 120g dry glass noodles150ml chicken stock2 tablespoons oyster sauce1 tablespoon light soy sauce1 tablespoon dark soy sauce2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)2 teaspoons sugar1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine1 tablespoon sesame oil4-5 cloves of garlic½ teaspoon black peppercorns½ teaspoon white peppercorns2 medium pieces of ginger2 fresh cilantro roots50g pork lard (or pork belly), sliced into short stripsNeutral cooking oil (optional)12 medium prawns, deveined but heads and shells left intact¼ cabbage, chopped (optional)Chopped spring onion (for garnishing) Fresh cilantro. — Picture by CK Lim Method Soak the dry glass noodles in a bowl of water; follow the packet instructions for how long to soak them, typically 10-30 minutes. While the glass noodles are soaking, combine the chicken stock, oyster sauce, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar, Shaoxing wine and sesame oil in a mixing bowl. Set aside. Leave the heads and shells of the prawns intact. — Picture by CK Lim Using a pestle and mortar, pound the garlic, black and white peppercorns, ginger and cilantro roots until they form a coarse paste. Once the glass noodles have softened, drain and add to the bowl of seasoning sauce. Stir well to mix. Layer the bottom of the pot with the pieces of pork lard. Heat on the stovetop over low heat until the pork fat begins to render. You may now add the aromatic paste on top of the pork lard. Increase the heat to medium. Drizzle a little neutral cooking oil over the paste, if there isn't enough rendered pork lard to help the sautéing process. Once the paste starts to release its aroma, add the glass noodles and any residual sauce. Top with the prawns (and cabbage, if using). Cover with the lid. Cook over medium high heat for 6-10 minutes, until the glass noodles have absorbed most of the sauce. Remove from the heat and garnish with chopped spring onion. Serve the dish in the pot it is cooked in. Enjoy whilst hot. Enjoy while hot. — Picture by CK Lim


Malay Mail
08-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- Malay Mail
More than roast duck: Head to MW Signature in Happy Garden for their signature duck ‘hanbagu' and crystal ‘cha siu' that is ‘just right'
KUALA LUMPUR, May 8 — What looks like a hanbagu but isn't quite a hanbagu? If you're in the vicinity of Taman Bukit Indah in KL (Happy Garden to longtime residents), the answer might well be the Duck Burger Patty at MW Signature along Jalan Lazat 2. (To clarify, the full name of the restaurant is MW Signature Premium Ducks Roasted To Perfection but given that this is quite a mouthful, most regulars just call it MW Signature.) Served with rice, some greens and a sunny side up, the patty calls to mind the Japanese-style hanbagu steak that is typically made from a mix of ground beef and pork, and served with rice instead of burger buns. The restaurant is packed during lunch hour. — Picture by CK Lim The hanbagu is synonymous with Japanese-style Western cuisine known as yoshoku (as opposed to truly traditional Japanese cuisine or washoku), which would make sense that adaptations will always be part of the ever-changing foodscape. As such, why not a duck hanbagu? Fortunately, this is far from a gimmick: the duck patty is deeply flavourful despite its pale colour and is as juicy as a classic beef-and-pork hanbagu. No surprise then, that the restaurant is packed during lunch hour given the high quality of the food served, albeit simply and without much frou-frou. Iced drinks (right). Pork Lard and Minced Meat Noodles (right). — Pictures by CK Lim To begin, we decided on iced drinks given the sweltering noonday weather. The trio of beverages — Hainam Cham, Jasmine Green Tea and Salted Lime Juice — were all suitably refreshing. There are a number of noodle dishes, designed for solo diners or those needing a quick meal, topped with roast duck, cha siu or siew yoke. Simplest is best here as their Pork Lard and Minced Meat Noodles had all the right ingredients: crunchy pork lard, savoury minced pork, chewy noodles and not too much sauce so that every strand is slick with seasoning rather than drowning in broth-like gravy. Mini Yam Rings. — Picture by CK Lim The appetisers all offer an irresistible crunch that comes from the deep-frying: Dragon Beard Duck Rolls, Duck Rolls with Taro Paste, and Mini Yam Rings. The last one is what we ordered, a scaled down version of the Chinese banquet staple that is just as beguiling and far less guilt-inducing given it's helpfully bite-sized. Time for the main course, so to speak. Our friendly server showed off a whole roasted duck to us, cheekily asking us which part we preferred (we went for the lower half, naturally, for the much sought after duck drumstick). Nothing is wasted, even if customers have specific preferences as to their favourite parts of the duck. The carcass as well as any residual meats that are sliced off during the preparation process is well employed in the classic leftovers dish, Spicy & Sour Mustard Greens (labelled as the 'Emperor's Dish' in the menu here). Nothing is wasted, from a whole roasted duck to the classic leftovers dish, Spicy & Sour Mustard Greens. — Pictures by CK Lim Known as choy geok in Cantonese, this is something my mother would make every Chinese New Year. It's a period when we must feast well, which means there will be plenty of delicious leftovers, especially roast meats. What better way to reinvigorate appetites that might be a tad strained after days of heavy eating with something that is hot and sour? That is the premise behind this zero-food-wastage standard and MW Signature's version works a treat given all the flavourful meats being served. Not that there would be much wastage given how everyone orders the Signature Roast Duck. (A quick glance at the tables surrounding ours confirmed this.) It is, after all, in the name of the restaurant. So how does their roast duck fare? Everyone orders the Signature Roast Duck. — Picture by CK Lim Honestly, it is a worthy addition to any Cantonese roast duck map for enthusiasts; possibly better than many more well-known establishments in the Klang Valley. The meat is surprisingly moist and tender, a far cry from the dry and chewy offerings I have had elsewhere. In fact, the de facto duck connoisseur at our table had only one complaint: that the dish lacked a more prominent duck aroma. This, for some of us (myself included), isn't a drawback; not everyone appreciates a strong parfum de canard so we were quite satisfied. What we all agreed on was MW Signature's excellent cha siu or Crystal BBQ Pork, as it's labelled in the menu. MW Signature's excellent 'cha siu' or Crystal BBQ Pork. — Picture by CK Lim 'Crystal cha siu' isn't something new — one of the best I had was at Restoran You Kee XO in JB — but I find most versions in the Klang Valley to err heavily on the side of cloyingly sweet. One slice is perfection; more will be quite jelak. There is no danger of that feeling of having eaten overwhelmingly rich food here; their cha siu is just right, as per the Goldilocks Rule. This is a restaurant we'd happily return to and recommend to others — for their duck hanbagu (which is what I insist on calling their burger patty), their fantastic cha siu and, above all, for their impressive service. Don't miss out on this one. MW Signature Premium Ducks Roasted To Perfection 56, Jalan Lazat 2, Taman Bukit Indah, KL Open daily 10am-2:30pm; 5:30-8:30pm Phone: 03-7971 2787 * This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.


Malay Mail
06-05-2025
- General
- Malay Mail
For authentic Hong Kong-style ‘chee cheong fun' and an old-school claypot ‘yee mee', head to Ten Hup Chee Cheong Fun in Kajang
KAJANG, May 6 – It can be challenging to find a decent Hong Kong-style chee cheong fun nowadays but we found one at Ten Hup Chee Cheong Fun in Kajang. For local residents, Ten Hup is a familiar name; the shop started as a stall along the food street behind the Kajang wet market almost four decades ago before opening a full restaurant in its current location along Jalan Bukit (the same row as Mingmom Chinese Cuisine, known for their Pork Lard White Kolo Mee). So basically the chee cheong fun shop hopped from one food haven to another, and just across the main road from its original site. What matters is that the taste has remained consistent. Part of the appeal of Hong Kong-style chee cheong fun over other approaches is that the restaurant would have to make them fresh to order. This is how you get soft, slippery rice rolls instead of the chewier, rubbery texture of premade chee cheong fun. Of course, this means some patience on the part of the customers as the shop would only be able to make a certain number at a time. When I strolled over to the chee cheong fun station at the entrance, there were already a number of customers waiting for their takeaway orders. Making fresh 'chee cheong fun' to order. — Pictures by CK Lim The staff manning the station mistook my curiosity for hunger (or so I assumed) and told me apologetically they were waiting for the water to come to a boil, in order to steam the rolls. Ah, all the better to observe the whole procedure, from start to finish! Honestly, there is a hypnotic quality to the entire process, a ritual if you will. Once the water is hot enough, the staff will ladle the right amount of very thin batter onto the muslin cloth spread over each rectangular steamer then quickly cover it with a domed lid. Scraping the steamed batter into rolls. — Picture by CK Lim It is a matter of minutes before they open the lid again and transfer the entire muslin cloth to the working area. They then drop morsels of cooked prawns or chasiu, before scraping the steamed batter into rolls, encasing its filling along the way. Quite lovely to watch, but even better when that plate of chee cheong fun arrives at your table and you can taste the staff's handiwork. Make sure to soak each piece in the seasoned soy sauce and add a smidgen of their homemade sambal for that extra kick. The drinks menu is typical of any kopitiam; you could have your kopi O or your teh C. We ordered their cham for a much needed caffeine kick but it was the Barley Pumpkin drink that was a true standout – naturally sweet and full of nutritious fibre. 'Cham' and Barley Pumpkin (left). Mini Lionhead Meatballs (right). — Pictures by CK Lim Most of us wouldn't be satiated with a plate of chee cheong fun alone, no matter how well executed the steamed rice rolls are. The shop thus offers an assortment of side dishes, from fried wantans and dumplings in soup and fried. We went for their Mini Lionhead Meatballs, which we rightly guessed had a crispier exterior due to their smaller size than a full-figured lionhead meatball (known as shizitou in Mandarin, these are typically larger and moist inside). Just enough of a crunch from the use of water chestnuts and savouriness from the generously seasoned minced pork. Delicious! If you're seeking larger bites, however, noodles are the way to go. Ten Hup offers wantan mee as well as homemade noodles in a variety of ways, from curry chicken and Hakka zha yuk (braised pork belly) for the former to a tomyam soup and dry spicy version for the latter. Yet the one noodle dish most tables would order is usually their very old-school Claypot Yee Mee. There is something magical about a hot claypot arriving at your table, wreathed in aluminium foil, that would wow even the most jaded of palates. Claypot 'Yee Mee'. — Picture by CK Lim The nest of fried noodles soaking up the hot broth, snatches of coarsely chopped leafy greens, fishballs and nuggets of minced pork, fresh prawns and to finish the dish, a single egg in the centre, its golden yolk still liquid and glistening. How could you resist this? We certainly couldn't. The only recommendation left would be the most obvious: Dig in while the food is hot! Dig in while the food is hot! — Pictures by CK Lim Ten Hup Chee Cheong Fun 天合香港豬腸粉 145F, Jalan Bukit, Bandar Kajang, Selangor Open Mon-Wed 8am-3:30pm; Fri-Sun 8am-4:30pm (Thu closed) Phone: 018-668 8393 * This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. * Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.


Malay Mail
03-05-2025
- General
- Malay Mail
There's nothing better than these twice-baked Italian biscotti to go with your coffee at 10 Grams Coffee Lab in Seremban
SEREMBAN, May 3 — The aroma of freshly-baked biscotti is quite unmistakable and frankly inimitable. The warm, toasted notes of almonds; a gentle hit of nutmeg or cinnamon or both; the sweet scent of baking in an Italian kitchen. It's a fragrance I haven't had the chance to enjoy in far too long. So it is all the more surprising that I am experiencing this twice-baked bouquet in the more-than-half-century old Templer Flats in Seremban. The refurbished shop front blends in with the rest of the old-time flats. — Picture by CK Lim Specifically, the biscotti comes with the coffee we ordered at 10 Grams Coffee Lab, located in a corner shoplot facing the inner courtyard of the low-cost housing project, which was constructed in 1966. Residents, most of them senior citizens, stroll around or enjoy their kopitiam breakfast. Indeed we had stumbled upon the café after one of our regular weekend brekkie trips to Seremban town. We particularly adore the old part of town from the Lobak neighbourhood, where we relish the homemade spinach noodles with sliced wat gai (poached chicken) from Kedai Makanan Shiang Kang, to the iconic Jalan Kong Sang, where we can indulge in both butter kopi and truly thick butter toast at Kedai Kopi & Makanan Saudara. Slow and steady: Brewing pour over coffee. — Picture by CK Lim But sometimes we crave another round of caffeine, a little extra pick-me-up after a heavy, carb-forward morning meal. Which is where the lovely surprise of 10 Grams Coffee Lab comes in. The refurbished shop front blends in with the rest of the old-time flats. Some specialty coffee bars can stick out like a store thumb in their adopted neighbourhoods (such is the price of gentrification, you might say) but this is one café that makes a concerted effort to be one with their surroundings. 'All you need is coffee' (left). Minimalist vintage décor (right). — Picture by CK Lim Inside, only the walls are touched up with washed concrete; the original flooring remains the same – retro style tiles downstairs and time-worn parquet upstairs. Our barista had just opened the shop; we were the first customers today. There is an unhurried tenor to her movements and it is the perfect approach for an idyllic weekend morning. Slow and steady, she begins brewing our first order of pour over coffee. The beans are by YiLuDou, a coffee roastery based in Cheras. We chose an Ethiopia Sidama; the floral notes were especially evident thanks to YiLuDou's direct fire roasting method. Creating latte art with foamed milk. — Picture by CK Lim While we waited for our coffee, we took in the interior, which was confident and unfussy. The feature wall had a huge neon sign that announced firmly: 'All you need is coffee'. Upstairs, the minimalist vintage décor continued. We could be in someone's family home in the 1960s. The weathered look of the parquet flooring swells your heart with pangs of nostalgia you didn't realise you harboured. Back downstairs, our barista was already creating latte art with foamed milk. Here are our coffees, then: one pour over coffee and one flat white. Filter and espresso based coffees, one of each to sample. Flat white. — Picture by CK Lim The highlight, however, was the unexpected dish of biscotti that came with our coffees. We used to have this with coffee years ago but somehow it fell out of fashion as the world grew infatuated with croissants and their increasingly hybridised cousins (cronuts, cruffins, cragels, crookies, the list goes on...). There is a simpler charm to these twice-baked Italian almond cookies. We have had many wafer-thin ones, which are crispier and shatter in your mouth. These are closer to the ones my Italian friends would make: sliced thickly, crunchy rather than crispy, very dry and thus perfect for dipping into your coffee. Which is what we did, dear readers. Dip the biscotti into your coffee. — Picture by CK Lim 10 Grams Coffee Lab C5, Templer Flats, Jalan Tun Dr Ismail, Seremban Open Fri-Wed 9:30am-4:30pm; Thu closed IG: @10gramscoffee * This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. * Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.


Malay Mail
26-04-2025
- General
- Malay Mail
‘Pasta dolce vita': Luxuriate in a rosemary sausage fusilli that any Italian mamma would approve of
KUALA LUMPUR, April 26 – My best friend from Italy is coming to town this weekend. We have known each other for over two decades now (and counting). So what better dish to whip up for this 'Weekend Kitchen' than a pasta that even his Italian mamma would approve of. My rosemary sausage fusilli has ingredients one might associate with Italian cooking – a tri coloured fusilli pasta (a nod to the green, white and red of the Italian flag), sprigs of fresh rosemary – and some that aren't as indelibly linked, including Italian sausages, which are in fact an American invention. Tri coloured fusilli pasta — Picture by CK Lim Still, it is the thought that counts. (Or do I mean the taste?) This is a dish that is a celebration of a friendship across borders, spanning two continents and twenty-plus years. And a dish you ought to make in your own home, to savour its intense flavours and to exult in la vida dolce – Italian for 'the sweet life'. Indeed, may you luxuriate in this pasta vida dolce! Rosemary Sausage Fusilli You can use any type of pasta you like but I have always had a soft spot for fusilli thanks to how its corkscrew shape retains so much of the sauce. Here I have used a tri coloured fusilli; the Italian flag is officially known as the Italian Tricolour, after all. The green comes from the infusion of spinach purée; the white is the original pasta colour, which is more yellow-hued thanks to the addition of egg yolks; and the red from tomato paste. Sprigs of fresh rosemary — Picture by CK Lim There's nothing quite like fresh rosemary from one's garden or from a small pot on your warm kitchen windowsill. Its scent goes well with the Italian sausages, which are typically seasoned with fennel. From the more Asian side of my pantry: chilli paste and king trumpet mushrooms. The former is far more fiery than Italian peperoncino; the latter more easily available than porcini or chanterelles. King trumpet mushrooms — Picture by CK Lim Ingredients 1.5-2 litres water 500g tri coloured fusilli pasta 2 tablespoons salt A handful of bacon bits 3 Italian sausages, sliced into chunks Olive oil 1 tablespoon chilli paste 2 large garlic cloves, sliced thinly 2-3 king trumpet mushroom, sliced 2-3 sprigs of fresh rosemary, leaves only Sea salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste More fresh rosemary leaves, for garnishing Method Using a large pot, bring the water to a boil before adding the salt. Wait until the water returns to a rolling boil before adding the fusilli pasta. There is no need to add oil to the water; simply stir the pasta constantly for the first minute or so to prevent them from sticking. Cook till almost al dente, as the pasta will continue to cook when tossed with the hot sauce later; approximately two minutes less than the cooking instructions on the pasta box or packet. While the pasta is cooking, heat a large pan gently over medium-high heat. Once the pan is hot, reduce the heat and add the bacon bits. Italian sausages are typically seasoned with fennel — Picture by CK Lim Stir the bacon bits and allow the fat to render. Once the bacon bits have started to crisp and develop a golden brown colour, remove from the pan using a slotted spoon and allow to drain dry on some kitchen paper towels. If there is enough rendered fat remaining in the pan, add the chunks of Italian sausages directly into the pan. If the pan looks a bit dry to you, add some olive oil and allow to heat up before adding the sausages. Stir occasionally, ensuring to clip the sausage chunks to allow for even browning. Once they are cooked, remove from the pan using a slotted spoon and set aside. Add a bit more olive oil and heat again over medium-high heat. Add the chilli paste and stir until aromatic before adding the sliced garlic. The pasta is well spiced with chilli paste and aromatics — Picture by CK Lim Stir again until the garlic is aromatic, then add the mushrooms. Once the mushrooms are well coated with the chilli paste and garlic, add the rosemary leaves; we add these near the end to allow them to perfume the sauce but not get burnt. The idea here is to ensure the pasta is eventually well spiced with chilli paste and aromatics. Once the pasta is ready, drain and transfer directly to the pan of sauce. Toss the fusilli with the sauce; add some reserved pasta water, if necessary, to loosen the sauce. Taste and season accordingly with salt and pepper. Plate the pasta and garnish with some fresh rosemary leaves. Serve immediately.