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At Somerville's Café Saint Germain, the chef talks to his French onion soup

'I fell in love right away with the city, on the very first day, the European charm. It was older, a small town with big-city energy,' he recalls. He happened upon He went on to open well-regarded bistros such as Advertisement Assorted cured meats at Café Saint-Germain in Somerville. Erin Clark/Globe Staff 'I can't help but to open restaurants, I don't know what's wrong with me,' he says, amiably. The Café Saint-Germain location was formerly called PRB Boulangerie, but Le Garrec decided to pivot to a café and restaurant instead, complete with a liquor license, obtained last year. This reiteration opened in January, with drinks. Advertisement 'Once we got a legal license, it was a great start. It's a good location. There's a lot of people walking from Harvard and Inman Square, day and night, with a nice wine shop across the street — and Dali, the Spanish restaurant that's been there forever,' he says. 'At first, we had a hard time. We didn't make enough noise here when we opened with social media, and I didn't do much publicity. I think people are still discovering us.' Beef bourguignon at Café Saint-Germain in Somerville. Erin Clark/Globe Staff Plenty of people have, though; on a recent weekday lunchtime visit, the sunny space is full of folks who appear to have nowhere special to go. What to eat : Wander to the chalkboard and browse the day's wares: The café opens at 7 a.m. daily, with baked goods like croissants and brownies brought in from Le Garrec's PRB Boulangerie in Kendall Square, and then rolls into lunchtime with ham and cheese baguettes; brie slathered with cranberry jam; and smoked salmon. Soon, he'll begin to serve brunch in a box, ideal for picnics: pastries, eggs, bacon, orange juice, and coffee. 'It's a cool concept that's been working really well in Paris lately,' he says, the brainchild of 28-year-old chef Samuel Aizier, who trained in Belgium and France. Le Garrec brought him over from his late, lamented South End restaurant, Marseilles, a place that Le Garrec, then stretched thin with many restaurants, still waxes nostalgic for. Restaurateur Loic Le Garrec sits at a table in his new Somerville restaurant, Café Saint-Germain. Erin Clark/Globe Staff At 4 p.m., dinner commences: escargot, coq au vin, the beef bourguignon, steak frites, and his personal favorite: French onion soup. 'It's to die for. The chef cooks it with little brandy, a little white wine, some of these bone sauces that he makes. I think he talks to the onions while they're simmering,' he says. Advertisement On Monday and Tuesday nights, dip in for $38 unlimited French small plates, like beef tartare and mushroom croquettes. A selection of tapas showcases Café Saint-Germain's French-influenced small plates in Somerville. Erin Clark/Globe Staff What to drink : A vast swath of French wines; chalkboard specials like boulevardiers and a fig old-fashioned; plus lattes, cappuccinos, and double espressos, available hot or iced. The takeaway : A hospitable, civilized neighborhood sanctuary that's settling into a groove. A free parking lot next door sweetens the scene. 118 Beacon St., Somerville, Kara Baskin can be reached at