15 hours ago
French toast: A taste of Montreal's best restaurants Michelin forgot
Purveyor of good taste and restaurant elitism, Michelin Group at long last debuted its inaugural guide to the province of Québec last month, and its Montréal selections have gone over about as well as day-old poutine.
Despite being the province's largest city (population 1.8 million), with more restaurants per capita than New York City, Montréal received a paltry three ratings at the one-star level.
Meanwhile, the province's much smaller capital Québec City (population 557,390) received four one-star ratings, and one two-star rating.
4 Caribbean fare lives at Casse-Croûte Sissi et Paul.
Sissi & Paul
The skewed results continued in the guide's other categories. In the Bib Gourmand category, which gives affordable restaurant recommendations, seven nods went to Montréal, and eight went to Québec City. In fact, just 43 of the province's total of 76 'recommended' restaurants are located in Montréal.
And despite its reputation as a world capital of urban agriculture, low-impact sourcing, and surprisingly sippable natural and biodynamic wines, not a single Montréal restaurant received a 'Michelin Green Star' for sustainable gastronomy.
But Québec City got one, and so did the rural communities of Saint-Mathieu-du-Parc and Stanbridge East.
'People have been pretty surprised that Québec City got more recognition because our food scene is much more prolific,' said Mélissa Simard, founder of Round Table Tours, which offers food tours of Montréal.
The difference might have something to do with the capital's French roots feeling more familiar to Michelin Guide inspectors, she says: 'Québec City tends to be a little homogenous and traditional, and Montréal is very cosmopolitan.'
4 You'll find haute share plates at Helicopter.
Helicoptere
Montréal restaurateur Ari Schor scored a Michelin recommendation for the restaurant he co-owns with his brother Pablo — still he wasn't sure that the guide's offered the best snapshot of the city's food scene.
'A lot of what these inspectors look for is consistency, which can be tough for restaurants like ours which change our menus all the time,' said Schor.
Beba's rotating menu reflects the brothers' Mediterranean, Argentine and Canadian roots, with decadent ingredients like caviar, beef tongue and foie gras making frequent appearances.
4 Feast upon fusion fare at Bar Saint-Denis.
Matthieu Goyer
He worries that a city whose food scene champions creativity, diversity and vibrancy might be at odds with the Michelin guide's framework.
'You can come to Beba three times in a week and have three completely different meals,' said Schor. 'We were super stoked we got recognized, but I'm not sure that recognition is what we strive for. What I do know is that we probably sell more caviar than any restaurant in Montreal.'
Chews wisely
These are the Montréal restos local critics love — but Michelin missed.
4 Italian cooking is Impasto's specialty.
Courtesy of Impasto
Impasto
House-made pastas and southern Italian specialties make this Italian fine dining spot a standout amongst the many excellent restaurants of Little Italy (48 Rue Dante).
Alma
Should you really trust the French to with Mexican food? Sí, senor. The Culinaria Mexicana's Gastronomic Guide 2025 just named this Outremont hotspot the world's best Mexican restaurant outside Mexico (1231 Ave. Lajoie).
Chalet Bar-BQ
Montréal has a serious love for rôtisserie chicken, and Chalet does some of the best. Think golden skin, crispy coleslaw and a healthy dousing of brown gravy (5456 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest).
'People have been pretty surprised that Québec City got more recognition because our food scene is much more prolific.' Mélissa Simard, founder of Round Table Tours
Hélicoptère
The bounty of Québec takes center stage at this Hochelaga eatery, where an inventive, ever-evolving menu of share plates highlights local ingredients paired with natural and biodynamic wines (4255 Rue Ontario Est).
Nouilles de Lan Zhou
Don't fear the line at this Chinatown noodle shop: Watching the kitchen hand-pull noodles here is a mesmerizing experience (1006 Boulevard Saint-Laurent).
Bar Saint-Denis
A little French, a little Canadian, a little Mediterranean — the menu here represents Montréal's diverse approach to Francophilia. Think boudin with apples in red wine sauce, and fresh razor clams sprinkled with tabbouleh (6966 Rue Saint-Denis).
Casse-Croûte Sissi et Paul
A robust Haitian population makes Montréal a solid spot for Caribbean cooking. This takeout-only joint serves some great griot pork shoulder marinated in spices and citrus (2517 Rue Jean-Talon Est).
Snowdon Deli
There's a rich tradition of Jewish delis in Montreal, and this one has been slinging potato latkes and Montreal's signature smoked meat sandwiches since 1946 (5265 Boulevard Décarie).
