3 days ago
How to plan a self-drive boat tour of Ireland's River Shannon
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
The Irish heartlands put the emerald in the Emerald Isle — and the River Shannon, which flows from County Cavan to County Kerry, is its lifeblood. It takes its name from the Celtic goddess Sinann: legend tells that she lifted the cover of a forbidden well in the Cavan Mountains, causing a flood to burst forth. Her drowned life force ebbed into the river she'd made, creating flower-filled meadows, tousled islands and fertile fields.
Cruising has long been a wonderful way to explore the Shannon — the longest river in Ireland — but now there's more reason than ever to try it as the river's boat fleet has been converted to hydro-treated vegetable oil (HVO) fuel, cutting carbon emissions by 92%. And compared to the crowded coast, Ireland's heartlands receive a tiny fraction of the country's visitors. Here, it's less about ticking off a checklist of sights and more about slowing down and drifting along, occasionally pausing at a village pub or millennium-old monastery. And beyond the river itself, the region has national parks to explore. Rambling among their ancient hills will teach you the true meaning of green.
MorningThe town of Banagher in County Offaly is a popular starting point for self-drive river cruises. Before you set off, get acquainted with the Shannon by taking a dip in the Banagher Outdoor Swimming Pool, opposite the harbour. It was made by cordoning off a section of the river with safety walls and attracts plenty of cheerful swimmers, who make strokes with a view of Banagher Bridge. Once you've dried off, pick up your boat at Banagher Marina and putter north. Before you, the Shannon Callows (floodplains) unfurl in all their emerald majesty. Chestnut-brown cows and donkeys snuffle along the banks; swans ride the river's swell; herons stalk the rushes. More rarely, you might encounter corncrakes, skylarks and sedge warblers.
AfternoonThere's no mistaking the town of Shannonbridge — its 16-arched namesake straddles the banks, finishing in a fort that lords it over the river like a stone fist. In the early 1800s, the threat of Napoleonic invasion, assisted by pro-independence Irish, weighed heavy on the minds of British colonists. Their response was to build Martello towers around the coast and fortifications all the way up the Shannon, of which Shannonbridge Fort is one of the best examples. Though now three-quarters demolished, it still cuts an imposing silhouette — plus, it has a great cafe. Visit the exhibition on the fort's history, then storm the ramparts — open to visitors this year — and look down on the fort's remains.
EveningFrom Shannonbridge, it'll take around three to four hours to motor up to Lough Ree, where you'll see the golden-hour light shimmering on its surface and dancing over the reeds. If you're lucky, you may spot otters at dusk. Park at the moorings for Glasson Lakehouse, on the lake's southeastern shore. Inside, it's all tufted leather, waxed timber beams and stone fireplaces. At Bonnie's restaurant, Glasson native Dee Adamson crafts seasonal menus that marry Irish ingredients with pan-European flair, including dishes like chargrilled pork belly with onion tuille. Sleep on the boat or splash out on a room here — they come with a record player, lots of funky art and some have a lake-view balcony.
MorningGlide back south to Athlone — one of the largest towns in the heartlands and on the Shannon. This is, in many ways, Ireland's crossroads, having witnessed rebellions, sieges and Viking raids. As you walk from the marina, your first sight is of Athlone Castle, built in 1210 and remodelled during the Napoleonic period into the hulking, multi-towered fortification that still stands. Inside, an interactive exhibition describes the town's history. Next door, the Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul is a powerful statement of post-independence Catholicism. For lunch, stop by The Left Bank Bistro: the crowd-pleasing menu includes chunky focaccia sandwiches using local produce.
AfternoonThe approach to Clonmacnoise from the river is one that catches the breath, as spectral shadows on the horizon resolve into a gutted monastery, twin towers and a scattering of Celtic crosses. This was once one of the most important religious settlements in Europe, founded by Saint Ciarán in around 545 CE. Temple Ciarán, just 10ft wide, is believed to be the saint's resting place, from which pilgrims still take a pinch of earth for luck. Also seek out the 13ft-high Cross of the Scriptures, carved with scenes of Christ's crucifixion and resurrection. It's now housed in the visitor centre, where you'll also find original grave slabs, a video presentation and an exhibition on life on the Callows.
EveningReturn to Athlone for the nightlife. Fill up first at Thyme, a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant on the banks of the Shannon serving elevated Irish cuisine in a swish, herb-coloured dining room. Afterwards, head next door to the Dead Centre microbrewery to sample its IPAs, stouts and ales. Athlone is perhaps most famous as the home of Sean's Bar — officially the oldest pub in Ireland, dating to 900 CE. A section of the original wattle-and-daub wall is still visible, next to the Guinness World Record certificate. Grab an Irish coffee — laced with the bar's own Sean's Whiskey — and if there's live music, nod along to the thrum of fiddle and bodhrán (drum).
Carrick-on-ShannonThe Shannon's northern reaches show a different side to the river: narrower, curvier and dotted with islands. Boat trips here often start at Carrick-on-Shannon, the largest town in County Leitrim. Pick up urban walking trail guides at the tourist information centre and explore its architectural curiosities: the Italianate-Gothic fusion of Hatley Manor, the pastel facades and vibrant doors of St George's Terrace. Most curious of all is the 12ft-wide Costello Memorial Chapel — Ireland's smallest church. Businessman Edward Costello built it in 1879 in memory of his wife, Mary Josephine. Next door is the multi-award-winning Flynn's Bar, where bartenders pull pints of Guinness as smooth as the Shannon.
Lough KeyMeandering north west from Carrick-on-Shannon, you'll glide past bobbing cormorants and the indigo smudge of Sliabh an Iarainn (Iron Mountain). Once you've squeezed through Clarendon Lock, the trees part onto the silvery mirror of Lough Key, where you'll meet McDermott's Castle. Tie up at the jetty for the Lough Key Forest Park — formerly the Rockingham Estate, owned by the aristocratic King family. The Rockingham Remembered self-guided tour leads you through the bowels of the old house, which burned down in 1957. There's also a tree canopy walk, and the Moylurg Tower, resembling a Brutalist headstone, has a fantastic view of the lough and its islands — if you can scale its 160 steps, that is.
BoyleSouth west of Lough Key, slip into a narrow, hedgerow-hemmed canal running parallel to the Boyle River, which ends in a marina. From there, it's a short walk to the market town of Boyle. If you can, time your visit with the Courtyard Farmers' Market, open on Saturdays — you'll find locally made Leitrim Hill Creamery cheeses, Pyne's preserves from County Sligo, handmade jewellery and watercolour paintings. Otherwise, drop into King House, a restored Georgian mansion. Inside is a collection of Irish paintings and sculptures, plus international pieces donated by former Irish president Mary McAleese. Afterwards, wander up to Boyle Abbey, a 12th-century Cistercian monastery with carvings of monks and animals in its upper reaches.
Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
