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A road trip takes these friends back in time, to the medieval empires across the Deccan peninsula
A road trip takes these friends back in time, to the medieval empires across the Deccan peninsula

Indian Express

time2 days ago

  • Indian Express

A road trip takes these friends back in time, to the medieval empires across the Deccan peninsula

A long-held desire to visit Hampi finally fructified in the guise of an all-girls road trip through Karnataka in March. It was an indelible adventure, one that, on the face of it, began in Goa and ended in Bangalore, but in fact wove five history enthusiasts through the vestiges of three dynamic empires spread across the Deccan peninsula and 10 medieval centuries. It is no coincidence that their once-thriving capitals are located near river systems. Waterways have long played a critical role in the development of civilizations, empires and societies, not least economies. In the case of the Chalukya and Vijayanagara empires, says historian Anirudh Kanisetti, the river valleys they arose in also held geopolitical and strategic importance. 'The Malaprabha river cuts through sandstone cliffs which provide an easily fortifiable area where you can raise crops, dredge various minerals, get sandstone to construct temples and post lookouts all over the cliffs — essentially the ideal heartland for a militaristic kingdom'. For an arid region that once produced nothing but millets, the Malaprabha river's rocky valley ultimately made amends by spawning an empire so powerful that it reigned supreme over the Deccan variously between the 6th and 12th centuries CE. Its pastoral founders reportedly borrowed their moniker from the chalke (crowbar), an essential implement for cultivators, and it went on to become synonymous with the empire's free-standing rock-cut temple architecture. The early examples can be found strewn across Aihole and Badami, the respective commercial and political power centres of the Chalukyan Empire. The finest of these temples are to be seen in the cluster at Pattadakal, their one-time cultural seat, located on a bend of the Malaprabha, a village so somnolent that it belies its past as the scenic setting of many a Chalukyan coronation. While taking a breather under a leafy tree near the stunning Lokeshwara Temple (now Virupaksha Temple), we imagine Queen Lokamahadevi — on whose behest it was built — sailing up the Malaprabha with her entourage, alighting on its bank, and walking through the large riverside gateway to supplicate before Shiva in the richly sculpted sanctum. One imagines this is also how the Ramalingeshwar complex in Aihole, best visited during the annual ratha utsav (chariot festival), would have been accessed. In its vicinity, on the ridge above a lone Jain cave temple, rock paintings and as many as 42 dolmens, are indicative of the valley's pre-historic antecedents. Alongside temples, we find the ingenious Chalukyas employing the Malaprabha's rugged terrain to their military advantage. They built the Badami citadel atop a gigantic, impossible-to-breach, sandstone promontory. While not much remains of the fortifications, the view from the top is breathtaking in every sense of the word — the climb up is neither for the unfit nor the fainthearted. After posing beside the stone chariot inside Hampi's musical-pillared Vithala Temple, our Rs 50 currency notes dutifully held aloft, we gave ourselves some downtime near the glittering and — warned a sign — crocodile-infested waters of the Tungabhadra. A two kilometre-guided walk along its rock-strewn bank, replete with shrines and monuments, would have brought us to Virupaksha Temple, the top attraction in Hampi, but the heat dissuaded us. Instead, we sat watching coracles ferry locals to and from the opposite bank. There, hidden from view by boulders and a verdant copse, was Anegundi, a prominent fortified town that predates Vijayanagara. Also where our first taste of authentic local cuisine, a lunch curated by the Kishkinda Trust, waited. We took in the calming blue as it gorged through the granite landscape. Kanisetti explains, 'The city's site, on the banks of the Tungabhadra, was strategically positioned to control the Raichur Doab, an important frontier between the Deccan Sultanates and the territories of Vijayanagara. The part of the Tungabhadra that the eponymous empire ruled over was much rockier, easy to fortify, but less suitable for populations. Vijaynagara solved this with extraordinary feats of hydraulic engineering.' By constructing dams, reservoirs, and rainwater collection systems, the Tungabhadra empire managed to transform the relatively inhospitable landscape into the seat of one of the largest cities of its time in the world. Many of these feats, the drawing of water for agriculture, drinking, and bathing, from the Tungabhadra, are still in evidence in Hampi. Most riverside temples are equipped with large step-wells (pushkarni or kalyani) to cater to the shrine's requirements. Canals built by Vijayanagara rulers continue to irrigate not just the farmlands flanking the river but even those further afield. Rainwater was harvested in several reservoirs that visibly encircle Hampi even today, like the expansive Kamalapura Lake. Another integral feature of Vijayanagara's extensive water supply system was the aqueduct. These raised water channels, as seen beside the step-well near Mahanavami Dibba, ensured the royal enclosure stayed well and truly hydrated. It is no empty boast then that Hampi once housed a whopping 400,000 inhabitants! The Yagachi Rivers in southern Karnataka are less rocky than their northern counterparts and the Hoysalas (sandwiched between the Krishna and Kaveri rivers) found them better suited for irrigation purposes. For other requirements, the rulers constructed a number of reservoirs. In fact, Dwarasamudra (Halebidu), the capital city they founded in the 11th century, stands on the shores of one such artificial lake. Those soothing waters can be seen beyond the well-tended grounds of the star-shaped and exquisitely carved 12th century Hoysaleshwar Temple. We had to ultimately steal ourselves away from Halebidu's intricate soapstone friezes and sculpted figures to head to Belur, their later capital, banked on the Yagachi. There, an equally magnificent Chennakeshava Temple held us in rapt thrall. When we finally left, we did so with the evening aarti reverberating in our ears. Could one have asked for a better send-off?

Excavation at Karnataka's Lakkundi to unearth clues to Rashtrakutas, Hoysalas
Excavation at Karnataka's Lakkundi to unearth clues to Rashtrakutas, Hoysalas

New Indian Express

time4 days ago

  • General
  • New Indian Express

Excavation at Karnataka's Lakkundi to unearth clues to Rashtrakutas, Hoysalas

GADAG : Excavation began at Lakkundi for the second time in 20 years. This time, an open ground has been prepared to collect antique items, coins and inscriptions of Kote Veerabhadreshwara Temple. Retired scientist Keshav and his team are working with the ASI team, and there is much curiosity among history enthusiasts to see the artifacts being excavated. In November, ten teams started excavation work at Lakkundi and found five wells, six inscriptions and 600 historic stone carvings. This time, five families handed over their houses to the excavation team, and ASI officials also plan to make an open museum under the guidance of Tourism Minister HK Patil. Incidentally, the first excavation was started in 2004-05 under Patil, who was then irrigation minister. Chief Minister Siddaramaiah inaugurated the work this week. As per Lakkundi Heritage Development Authority sources, there are good chances of getting coin mintage, some more wells, temples and antique items from the Rashtrakuta, Kalyani, Chalukya and Hoysala eras. In 2004, Lakkundi Prabhudeva Mutt's south part, and a wall belonging to the ninth or tenth century was found. In 2005, some stone age items were found. This time, the idea of an open museum has attracted many as it is the first time the people of Lakkundi will be able to see artifacts in an open place. Siddalingeshwar Patil, committee member of Lakkundi Heritage Development Authority, said, 'This time, we are curious to see what we get after excavation. We hope to see old Lakkundi coins and inscriptions which will show us the path to further inscriptions. This time, we hope to find temples and wells belonging to Rashtrakutas, Kalyani Chalukyas and Hoysala dynasties.' How excavation started Minister HK Patil has a big hand in the excavation which started in November. He first convinced all villagers by writing out Lakkundi's brief history and pamphlets were printed and distributed to villagers. Patil appealed to the people to support the excavation, and the villagers gave the ASI team good support.

ASI begins scientific cleaning and conservation of copper plate inscriptions unearthed in Suryapet
ASI begins scientific cleaning and conservation of copper plate inscriptions unearthed in Suryapet

Time of India

time02-05-2025

  • General
  • Time of India

ASI begins scientific cleaning and conservation of copper plate inscriptions unearthed in Suryapet

Hyderabad: The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has begun the process of scientific cleaning and conservation of a rare set of copper plate inscriptions discovered in a Muslim graveyard at Kodad village in Suryapet district. The nine plates, which were recently unearthed, are now confirmed to date back to the Chalukyas of Vengi , a dynasty that ruled large parts of present-day Andhra Pradesh and Telangana between the 7th and 12th centuries CE. You Can Also Check: Hyderabad AQI | Weather in Hyderabad | Bank Holidays in Hyderabad | Public Holidays in Hyderabad On the instructions of the director of epigraphy at ASI K Muniratnam Reddy, the science branch in Hyderabad began chemical treatment of the plates to restore and preserve them. The ASI said that the epigraphic analysis will be completed soon. Preliminary observations suggest that the charters were issued under the authority of the Chalukya rulers, although specific details of the content remain undeciphered at this stage. According to K Muniratnam Reddy, once the cleaning is complete, the epigraphy branch of the ASI will take estampages — exact impressions — of the copper plates for further study. These impressions will then be deciphered, transcribed and analysed by experts to fully understand the inscriptions. Experts say the copper-plate inscriptions may contain valuable historical data relating to land grants, administration, social structure and possibly religious endowments from the Chalukya period. The discovery is expected to add new dimensions to the understanding of the Vengi branch of the Chalukyas and their influence in the region. The discovery is considered significant for the early medieval history of Telangana and may help refine existing timelines and genealogies of South Indian dynasties.

This is India's only meteor-created marvel hidden in plain sight
This is India's only meteor-created marvel hidden in plain sight

Time of India

time26-04-2025

  • Science
  • Time of India

This is India's only meteor-created marvel hidden in plain sight

Nestled in the heart of Maharashtra's Buldhana district lies a geological wonder that truly sets itself apart from many natural wonders of India. Lonar Lake—this wonder is India's only hyper-velocity meteorite impact crater, located in basaltic rock, formed around 52,000 years ago. This is truly astonishing. The lake's origin and mysterious characteristics have fascinated scientists, travelers, and nature lovers alike. If you're curious about how it formed, read on. A cosmic creation: Once, a meteor weighing about two million tons struck the Earth at an incredibly high speed. The impact was so huge and powerful that it left behind a large crater over 1.8 km wide and 250 meters deep. Shocking, right? With time, water accumulated in the crater, creating an interesting lake that maintains a lot of its original characteristics. What's special about Lonar Lake is that it's among only four such impact craters in basaltic rock found anywhere globally. Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like Free P2,000 GCash eGift UnionBank Credit Card Apply Now Undo One of the most intriguing aspects of the lake is its dual water composition. The lake contains both saline (salty) and alkaline (basic) water, supporting unique forms of microbes and algae that are not found anywhere else. Due to this unusual combination, the water sometimes turns green or pink, particularly when certain microbes multiply in huge quantities. This color shift draws photographers and researchers alike, all wanting to see nature's paintbox in action. Read more: Beyond Shimla & Ooty: 5 stunning hill stations in India you're missing out on! Cultural importance: The lake is ringed by a few ancient temples and ruins, some belonging to the Chalukya and Rashtrakuta eras. Temples such as the Daitya Sudan Temple, constructed in commemoration of Lord Vishnu, bear testimony to a rich cultural heritage that integrates with the lake's natural wonder. These ancient buildings, albeit weathered, lend spiritual elegance to the scientific wonder. A nature's marvel worth exploring: Today, Lonar Lake is a protected site under Maharashtra Tourism and a hotspot for ecotourism. Whether you're a science enthusiast, a history buff, or someone simply seeking a quiet and unusual travel destination, Lonar Lake offers a once-in-a-lifetime experience, where the sky once fell, and nature turned it into art. Read more: What to do if you lose your passports in foreign land Over the years, Lonar Lake has not remained a tourist attraction, but it is a site of serious scientific study. Many researchers from NASA, the Geological Survey of India, and various Indian universities have examined this lake's minerals and magnetic properties, which has only added more to the lake's aura of mystery.

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