18-05-2025
There has never been a better time to visit to Paris from Scotland
Well, I've just been back and the French capital is buzzing. I'd actually argue that there has never been a better time to ease to Paris all the way by rail from Scotland.
My journey began not at Edinburgh Airport, but at Waverley easing south aboard the Caledonian Sleeper ( It's now a brilliant connection. Wake up in Euston, grab a shower in the lounge and hop along the road to St Pancras. Here Eurostar awaits. It's worth shelling out for a Business Premier seat – I booked mine through Rail Europe ( – as you get a lounge with a smoothie bar before an onboard meal curated by a Michelin chef. The complimentary Champagne Fleury adds a splash of anticipatory joie de vivre too.
Parisian hotels are pricey, but not all are quality, with some poor efforts by the big international brands in particular.
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This time I went for two smaller hotels with a personal touch. Hôtel Filigrane ( on the Grand Boulevards welcomed me like an old friend and handily had a Metro station nearby. It was only a 20-minute walk to Gare du Nord too.
The Hôtel Grand Cœur Latin ( is a new Left Bank bolthole with an equally warm welcome. They also have a swish basement pool, with a hammam, that is free for all guests. They have an impressive breakfast spread too that really sets you up for a day of sightseeing.
Getting around Paris has got easier of late. The Navigo Easy card lets you load up the €2.50 tickets (valid for two hours) that work on buses, Metro and RER.
I always do a lot of walking in Paris too. It's a fairly flat city and my usual day-long sweep from the Arc de Triomphe to Notre Dame takes in many of the main attractions en route, including the Champs-Élysées, Jardin des Tuileries and the Louvre.
Notre Dame has been impressively reborn – to make sure you get in, book a free slot online on the day as soon as you wake up. Don't fall for companies trying to charge you – head to
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A great new way of exploring is with Green River Cruises ( Their swish wee electric boats ease the pressure tourism places on the environment, but don't skimp on luxury. You have the use of a whole boat that can take up to 12 guests, with wine bottled by the owners and a plate of charcuterie.
It's a glorious experience easing under the landmarks so close to the water with your own captain and your tunes on the stereo.
You get the opposite view from the Tour Montparnasse. They've big plans to revamp Paris' tallest building and it will probably end up all gleaming and corporate. For now it's a low-fi joy with a rooftop terrace that boasts the capital's best view. Time your visit for sunset to enjoy the gloaming playing with the Eiffel Tower and the sparkling lightshow that follows after dark.
Paris always puts on a great show on the plate too. I discovered three cracking restaurants. Restaurant Margaux is a new venue on the banks of the Seine that gazes towards the Eiffel Tower. Tuck into classics like Burgundy snails and fillet steak with a spiky peppercorn sauce, finishing off with a crème brûlée or tarte tatin. A decent wine list and low-key service complete a winning cocktail.
The same owner is behind Biche, just off the Champs-Élysées. Here I savoured a proper French onion soup, followed by Normandy ribeye served on the bone, washed down with a delicious Margaux wine.
I met the owner Michel and could feel his passion for serving well-cooked French classics with aplomb.
My wildcard eatery was the Chalet des Îles. Take the RER out and cross above the Boulevard Périphérique, to the great green lung of the Bois de Boulogne. You might think I'm leading you on a wild goose chase eking through the woodland on a narrow trail, but then you'll see the lake and the wee boat you catch over and smile, like I did. Take a seat on their terrace feeling a million miles from Paris and enjoy prawn tartare reinvented with a Thai sauce, then a decadent sole meunière. Their raspberry tarts are delicious too.
I left Paris after three nights as I always do – desperate to come back to one of the world's truly great cities as soon as possible.
The Auld Alliance for me never wavers; only strengthens on each visit.
Forget any rumours that Paris is suffering from any post-Olympic dip and jump on the Caledonian Sleeper at a Scottish station soon. You can be in Paris for midday the next day without a stressful flight in sight.
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