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The Most Luxurious Use of Eggs, by Way of Japan
The Most Luxurious Use of Eggs, by Way of Japan

New York Times

time23-04-2025

  • General
  • New York Times

The Most Luxurious Use of Eggs, by Way of Japan

Who was it who first found pleasure in rolling an egg — so fragile, so ready to shatter — down a hill? The pastime appears in 'The Encyclopedia of Traditional British Rural Sports,' alongside deer stalking and falconry, and goes back centuries. The pagans did it, historians tell us, in spring to celebrate the land's rebirth after winter, and then the Christians, who saw in the egg a symbol for the stone rolled away from the tomb. Recipe: Chawanmushi Still they roll. In Washington every Monday after Easter, a horde of children descends on the White House, armed with long-handled spoons to send eggs — reportedly 30,000 this year — tumbling across the lawn. It is a national ritual, occasionally suspended in times of bad weather, war, scarcity and pandemic, that officially dates to 1878, when aspiring young egg-rollers, barred from the Capitol after a particularly raucous rampage, lobbied President Rutherford B. Hayes for use of his backyard. A spoilsport might point out that as of last month, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, the average price of eggs hovered around $6.23 per dozen — close to 52 cents apiece. This humble staple, long taken for granted, is suddenly a luxury. (If it's any comfort, in mid-19th-century gold-rush San Francisco, the population grew so quickly that local chickens couldn't keep up, and a single egg sometimes sold for as much as a dollar, the equivalent of $41 today.) In truth, it has always been luxurious, the fatty yolk like a ripe sun, the protein-rich white. We just took this bounty for granted. An egg has superpowers, uniting otherwise-hostile ingredients and giving chiffon cakes and soufflés their angel weight. But it is also almost a complete meal in itself, with its cache of essential amino acids, kept safe inside the armor of that mystifyingly perfect, symmetrical shell. Look how little the egg requires of us in the kitchen: Cracked over a hot skillet, it trembles, then commits, going from liquid to solid in a moment. 'All you do is heat and eat,' a woman sings in a 1978 commercial for 'the incredible edible egg.' If frying seems too ordinary a fate for such an expensive ingredient now, it doesn't take much to treat it with more reverence. In Japan, the trick is steam, which gently transforms eggs into the elegant, semi-ethereal half-custard half-flan called chawanmushi, named after the tea bowl (chawan) in which it was traditionally cooked and presented. This is not dinner but is instead meant to be one of a number of small dishes and tastes, as in kaiseki, the rarefied classical Japanese meal. At Den in Tokyo, the chef, Zaiyu Hasegawa, offers a modern kaiseki with touches of whimsy (a foie gras cookie in a convenience-store wrapper, immaculately fried chicken stuffed with crab). There, chawanmushi comes with every meal, a pause between heftier bites, creamy but delicate. First the eggs are beaten — just half an egg per person — with dashi, a stock of kombu (kelp) and katsuobushi (bonito flakes). This brings a mellow brine but also, unexpectedly, a tinge of smoke from the katsuoboshi-making process, in which the bonito, a dark, tender fish that roams from the shallows to the deeps and grows meaty feeding on anchovies and sardines, is submerged in hot water just below boiling, then freed of its bones and smoked for days before being shaved into papery curls. The eggs and dashi, now one, are run through a sieve, for smoothness, then seasoned with usukuchi, a soy sauce that is lighter in color and body than dark soy sauce but slightly saltier, with a tart finish. Pour the mixture into teacups or ramekins, and be patient while it steams. Some recipes call for a ratio of as much as three times liquid to egg, but Hasegawa uses less here, so what you taste foremost is egg, the most lavish ingredient. Does it need more? You might layer mushrooms, ginkgo nuts or tiny shrimp at the bottom. Here Hasegawa suggests a purée of celery root melted down with butter, earthy-sweet. Spoon it on top once the custard has set. With the first bite, the faint chewiness of the celery root gives way to silk and surrender. Take your time. Think of the hens. Make every spoonful count.

The FACT UAE guide to the week ahead: 21 to 27 April 2025
The FACT UAE guide to the week ahead: 21 to 27 April 2025

FACT

time21-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • FACT

The FACT UAE guide to the week ahead: 21 to 27 April 2025

Your guide to the best food, arts and culture across Dubai this week. April is in full swing, which means brunches, theme nights, dining experiences, and epic events are all on the agenda for an epic week ahead. Monday 21 April Enjoy a midday Escape to Mesoamerica Step away from the everyday with the Almuerzo Business Lunch at Girl & the Goose – Restaurante Centroamericano. Perfect for quick business catch-ups and leisurely lunches with friends, this thoughtfully curated menu brings Central America's bold, soulful flavours to your afternoon. Available Monday to Friday from 12pm to 3pm. AED 109 (two courses) or AED 139 (three courses). GO: Visit for reservations and more information. Tuesday 22 April Try the new menu at FZN FZN by Björn Frantzén has unveiled its second seasonal tasting menu. Diners will begin in a chic Nordic-style lounge with canapés, before a guided house tour leads to the dining room. The nine-course menu features standout dishes such as Chawanmushi with Smoked Beef Broth and Bafun Uni, Turbot with Beurre Blanc and Frantzén Caviar, and signatures like Langoustine with Koshihikari Rice. The experience ends with desserts like Matcha Waffles with Carrot Ice Cream and miso madeleines. With over 1,600 wine labels, guests can choose from wine, mixed, or non-alcoholic pairings. Available daily from 7pm. AED 2,000 per person. GO: Visit for reservations and more information. Wednesday 23 April Enjoy a midweek indulgence at Nobu by the Beach Nobu by the Beach at Atlantis The Royal, the city's most talked-about pool and beach club, has unveiled its new all-day experience designed for those who appreciate the finer things in life. The offer includes a sun lounger, two signature drinks, and a poolside platter featuring a selection of chef-curated sashimi and bites. With chilled beats and refined service, Nobu's first pool and beach club concept seamlessly blends laidback luxury with culinary excellence. Available on Wednesdays from 10am to 7pm. AED 545 per person. GO: Visit for reservations and more information. Thursday 24 April Have lunch at Khadak Inspired by India's cherished tradition of taking a proper lunch break, Khadak invites diners to enjoy a moment of calm, connection, and seriously good food. Start with small plates, such as the crispy Karare Kale Chaat or Morel Cheese Kulcha, before moving on to a selection of marvellous mains. Think rich Guntur Butter Chicken, Shadab Chicken Biryani, or the comforting Moong Daal Gosht with a tender goat shank. Each main is served with a choice of roti, naan, roomali, or basmati rice. Available Monday to Friday from 12pm to 5pm. AED 98 per person. GO: Visit for reservations and more information. Friday 25 April See Nas live in the capital BRED – named after the idiom 'born and bred' – will celebrate the region's urban scene on Yas Island this April. Hip-hop heavyweight Nas will headline on Friday, 25 April. Born Nasir Jones, the American rapper is known for his profound impact on the hip-hop scene. Emerging from Queensbridge, New York, Nas gained critical acclaim with his 1994 debut album, Illmatic, celebrated for its intricate lyrics and vivid storytelling and the tracks 'N.Y. State of Mind' and 'The World Is Yours.' Throughout his career, Nas has released several successful albums, including It Was Written (1996), which features the hit single 'If I Ruled the World (Imagine That)' featuring Lauryn Hill, which has been lauded as one of the greatest rap songs of all time. GO: Visit for more information. Saturday 26 April Enjoy brunch with a side of bowling Head to Ajman Hotel for the new Rollin' Brunch, where you'll enjoy a tasty brunch, unlimited drinks while you bowl, and two full hours of non-stop bowling fun. Want to level up? Add beach access and make a day of it. Available on Saturdays from 1pm to 4pm. AED 400 (soft beverages), AED 500 (house beverages for two hours), AED 535 (soft beverages and beach access) and AED 685 (house beverages for two hours and beach access). GO: Email fboffice@ or call 06 714 5582 for reservations and more information. Sunday 27 April Savour a true taste of Italy at Bella Bocca Bella Bocca serves up soulful Italian cuisine in the new Marriott Marquis Dubai at Jewel of the Creek. Helmed by Chef de Cuisine Oscar Cimmino, enjoy a laid-back affair of shared plates, live music, and free-flowing drinks. The indulgent menu features Insalata di Frutti di Mare (a zesty seafood salad with lemon emulsion and pickled vegetables) and Pasta a forma di conchiglia con ragù di anatra (shell-shaped pasta enveloped in a rich duck ragout). Round things off with the Espuma Tiramisu. Available on Saturdays and Sundays from 12:30pm to 4pm. AED 175 (food only) or AED 275 (including house beverages) GO: Email or call 054 247 7565 for reservations and more information.

Deals from S$28++ at Singapore Restaurant Week 2025
Deals from S$28++ at Singapore Restaurant Week 2025

Yahoo

time11-04-2025

  • Yahoo

Deals from S$28++ at Singapore Restaurant Week 2025

Still looking for a restaurant to celebrate the Easter weekend? Singapore Restaurant Week is back from 4 to 27 Apr 2025! Held twice annually, it is brought to you by DiningCity, a world-renowned online restaurant guide and reservation platform. It features nearly 200 restaurants at varying price ranges and I've narrowed down some of the cheapest deals on this list, all of them going for S$28++ per pax. First up is Unagiya Ichinoji, an unagi restaurant nestled in Robertson Quay that imports their unagi from Japan, China and Taiwan. They are offering a 3-course lunch set that comes with Chawanmushi, Unagi Salmon Ikura Hitsumabushi and a dessert. If unagi isn't your thing, check out Gyutan-Tan in Tanjong Pagar, the first beef tongue speciality restaurant in Singapore. Their 3-course lunch set comes with a drink, and mains include a squid, chicken or classic beef tongue dish, the Mixed Combo (Additional S$5++). Saveur is a bistro that serves up timeless classic French cuisine. Located in Bugis, they've also got a 3-course lunch set meal. Options for the mains include chicken, seabass and Steak Frites (Additional S$10++). Another French restaurant on the list is Le Petit Katong, offering a taste of Paris in the heart of Katong. Their 3-course lunch set comes with a Coffee or Tea of your choice. My recommendation for your main is their best-selling Mussels that comes in a generous portion. Chinese food, anyone? Little Pond Holland Village, specialising in fish and prawn dishes, has a fixed 4-course lunch set including free-flow of all drinks and even ice cream on top of it! Look forward to their Signature Golden Sauerkraut Fish, Fried Garlic Pork Ribs and more. Closing out this list is another Japanese charcoal grill restaurant, Tajimaya Yakiniku, that is offering their lunch set at both their Great World City and Vivo City outlets. Their yakiniku comprises of A5 Miyazaki Striploin and MS6/7 Australia Wagyu Short Ribs, and comes with garlic rice. The lunch set also includes miso soup and dessert. This isn't an exhaustive list of all the S$28++ deals offered, so head to Singapore Restaurant Week's restaurant website to view the rest. To enjoy these deals, make your reservation through the official event website or the DiningCity app now! Live the high life with the ENTERTAINER: Eat well & save with 1-for-1 offers in Singapore The post Deals from S$28++ at Singapore Restaurant Week 2025 appeared first on

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