27-05-2025
Chef Sono Brings Kaiseki Downtown At Kappo Sono
Kappo Sono is not the kind of place you stumble upon. Tucked away on the sixth floor of a small building on a quiet street near Union Square, this quiet den is as discreet as it is transportive. With just 12 seats arounds a U-shaped bar overlooking downtown Manhattan, dining here feels less like a reservation and more like initiation into the cult of Sono.
Chef Chikaro Sono
Holding court is Chef Chikaro Sono, a beloved figure in New York's fine dining scene who's celebrated for his mastery of kaiseki—the traditional Japanese multi-course meal that emphasizes seasonality, precision and artistry. Sono hails from Hokkaido, Japan, where he honed his culinary skills in kitchens before relocating to New York in 1986. He rose to prominence as executive chef of Kyo Ya, a hidden gem in the East Village, which earned a Michelin star and a three-star review from The New York Times. Chef Sono's reputation is that he doesn't just cook—he composes, edits and refines his dishes until each resemble perfection. His menus shift monthly with the tides of Japan's fish markets and the moods of the moment.
One of the 13 courses at Kappo Sono
At Kappo Sono, it's not just the menu selections that stand out. There's the beverage program, a masterclass in pairing, helmed by Leo Lê—formerly of two-Michelin-star Uchu. This spring, he's pouring shiboritate sakes—just-pressed, unpasteurized and fizzy. They're the first bottles of the 2024 brewing season to hit the US.
The dining counter at Kappo Sono
As of last week, Kappo Sono is offering its $350, three-hour, 13-course kaiseki dinner from Wednesday through Saturday, featuring a newly reimagined menu crafted for late spring and early summer. Expect assorted sashimi, soft shell turtle soup with suppon buns, Madai dumplings, seasonal sushi wrapped in bamboo leaves and grilled Mishima Wagyu filet mignon. The dinner comes with a standard beverage pairing for $225 and a premium beverage pairing for $450.
Both pairings consist of at least 10 expressions of Japanese sakes and French wines. The standard pairing focuses on seasonal sakes and classic Burgundies, while the premium pairing highlights rare, celebrated sakes and premier-cru/grand-cru Burgundies and Champagnes.
Don't forget to leave room for dessert. Alongside his longtime team, Chef Sono welcomed acclaimed Pastry Chef Norie Uematsu to the kitchen. Known for her precision and artistry, Norie brings a refined, seasonal approach to desserts that beautifully complement the dinner. The result is dinner that borders on theater - one that will leave guests satisfied, slightly in awe and longing for their next kaiseki experience.
