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Straits Times

Food Picks: Bright, lively Sri Lankan flavours at Station by Kotuwa

Chilled Rasam with cherry tomatoes and yogurt (left) and Babath Crispy Tripe at Station by Kotuwa. PHOTOS: STATION BY KOTUWA SINGAPORE – Busy and buzzy, Station by Kotuwa in Boon Tat Street channels the energy of a train station, which is what inspired its name and vibe. The restaurant is an offshoot of chef Rishi Naleendra's Kotuwa, a Sri Lankan restaurant at New Bahru. Singaporean chef Jay Teo, 34, heads the kitchen at Station, and he offers bright, vibrant Sri Lankan flavours that are not, thankfully for this chilli coward, overly fiery. What I like about the place is that the menu is flexible. I can go there and order a series of small plates; a couple of snacks to go with cocktails; or a full, proper meal. The best dish at my meal is Babath Crispy Tripe ($7), which are like keto fries to me. Strips of tripe are braised in aromatics such as lemongrass, cardamom and star anise before being deep-fried. They are then coated in a spice blend made up of cinnamon, cardamom, cumin, fennel, black pepper, sweet paprika, cayenne, chilli powder and turmeric, and there is lime aioli for dipping. That aromatic spice blend makes every strip of tripe sing, and I find myself reaching for piece after piece. Also terrific is Chilled Rasam ($14), thick and tangy, with peeled cherry tomatoes floating in yogurt and gently tart soup, plus a drizzle of mustard oil. It wakes the palate up and is perfect on a hot day. Similarly refreshing is Kingfish ($18), raw cubes of the fish mixed with coconut dressing with jambu, onions, kaffir lime oil and puffed rice. The flavours are lively and delicious with pappadum. Tangy Seeni Sambol ($5), a caramelised onion and tamarind condiment; Pol Sambol ($5), made with grated coconut, chilli and lime; and Wambatu Moju ($5), eggplant pickled in coconut vinegar, are threats to my low-carb diet. It is difficult not to want to have extra helpings of impossibly fluffy basmati rice ($6) so I can have more of those condiments. Tempered Dahl ($8) is yet another flavourful rice thief. I would be happy with just these but the Pan Roasted Red Grouper ($36), with mustard curry, boasts a crisp skin from binchotan grilling and a creamy, fairly punchy mustard sauce. For dessert, there can only be Valrhona Chocolate Biscuit Pudding ($14), Marie biscuits soaked in milk and arrack, and layered with chocolate mousse. The lightly boozy fermented coconut sap gives it some kick. Where: Station by Kotuwa, 21 Boon Tat Street MRT: Telok Ayer Open: Noon to 3pm (Wednesdays to Fridays), from 6pm, with last order at 9.30pm (Tuesdays to Saturdays), closed on Sundays and Mondays Info: Call 6221-1911 or go to Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.