3 days ago
8 Chinese perfume brands scent lovers are obsessed with right now
Those who are into scents might have noticed a new wave emerging in the fragrance industry – a rising interest in China's perfumery scene that's evident on social media and beauty news, including in the west. It's a burgeoning beauty sector filled with niche brands that each have their unique take on fragrances – many with a fascinating oriental twist.
But it's not just the locals that these brands are attracting – tourists and foreigners who've had the chance to experience their scents are also being charmed by their distinctiveness and are spreading the word across the world.
Freshness and novelty are two key qualities that draw people to this new breed of perfumes. Besides largely being inspired by Eastern culture and concepts, many of them also incorporate unusual Chinese-inspired fragrance notes.
While common notes that are widely used in Western perfumes are also in Chinese scents, rare and unexpected materials are thrown in for an interesting mix. Instead of the usual rose, bergamot or generic black or green tea, you are likely to encounter osmanthus, pomelo, fo shou (Sichuan bergamot), oolong or Pu-erh in a Chinese fragrance.
Add to that the allure of aesthetically stylish packaging – an all-important factor in the overall appeal of perfumes, and it's not hard to see why Chinese perfumes are fast becoming the next big thing in the industry. Take a look at what these brands have to offer and you'd agree that they can rival any other Western luxury perfume company or the hottest Korean scent brands out there.
One downside, though, is that many of them are still difficult to acquire outside China, and can only be found at stores in major Chinese cities like Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Shanghai and Beijing. So, if you should be travelling to these destinations, make sure to check out where they can be bought.
1. TO SUMMER
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Arguably the most well-known among the Chinese fragrance brands, To Summer is the name you are likely to have first come across on social media. The brand is a go-to for Eastern-inspired scents that incorporate oriental notes like jasmine, osmanthus, Chinese cedar, fo shou (Sichuan bergamot), Pu-erh tea and incense.
Chinese perfumer David Huang is behind many of the creations, although the brand also works with international experts including French perfumer Jerome Epinette and German perfumer Frank Voelkl. For something truly unusual, try To Summer's Leisure, which fuses angelica root with floral and woody tones, and Ink, an intriguing woody scent that features ink as a note.
2. MELT SEASON
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The Estee Lauder group has taken a stake in this perfume brand, which is a sign that it's definitely one to pay attention to. Melt Season's minimalist-chic packaging that's mostly devoid of Chinese wording will have you thinking that it's a hip Western or Korean brand – but it's proudly established in Shanghai and just as cool as any other aesthetic niche perfume brand.
Its scents combine Eastern and Western philosophies, and that's why you'll find that its perfumes are built on a combination of fragrance notes and inspiration from both. Besides its outlets at Beijing, Shanghai and Shenzhen in China, you'll be able to find it in DFS stores in Hong Kong.
Available in Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, and DFS stores in Hong Kong.
3. DOCUMENTS
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Another Chinese perfume brand that has attracted interest from a global conglomerate, Documents had recently received funding from beauty giant, L'Oreal (the beauty giant also has a stake in To Summer).
The brand projects an edgy, contemporary vibe with its minimalist packaging, advertising visuals and store design. It takes an imaginative approach to formulating its scents, which are often based on abstract concepts with an oriental slant.
With simple names like Feather, Tree, Naive and Snake, the fragrances evoke the mood of each of these subjects via unique narratives. For Snake, which is inspired by the Chinese zodiac animal for this year, the brand has chosen to blend the bitterness of cocoa with the sweetness of vanilla in representation of the duality of the creature.
Available in Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou.
4. THE BEAST
@keemluu The next viral chinese perfume imo!! I also got to summer so im excited to compare and do wear tests :)) #viralperfume #perfume #perfumetok #chineseperfume #tosummer #china #xiaohongshu ♬ Cherry - Jordan Susanto
The Beast started out as a florist, and has since become a lifestyle retail concept store that stocks just about everything from furnishings and home decor to lounge wear, jewellery and accessories. But what seems to be really catching the attention of foreigners in China is its line of perfumes and home fragrance products that are beautifully designed and packaged. The Eastern inspiration is evident in its perfumes, such as Oriental Beauty and Osmanthus Oolong.
The Eastern influence is evident in how it has named its perfumes – Oriental Beauty is a surprising fusion of florals like camellia, honeysuckle and orchid with aquatic and citrus notes, while Osmanthus Oolong blends the oriental tea and floral notes in the perfume's name with incense, almond and leather tones.
Available in Shanghai.
5. SECRETS DOOR
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A modernist fragrance brand with a focus on natural, sustainable ingredients, Secrets Door doesn't overtly express its Chinese identity, choosing instead to create a more globalised image for itself. Save for a number of oriental notes used here and there in its catalogue of scents, there's not much else that provides a clue to the brand's origins.
The brand works with master perfumers from around the world to create its fragrances, which are all packaged in the same distinctive flacon – a minimalistic bottle in the shape of an arched door, a stylish nod to the name of the brand.
6. HANDHANDHAND
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It comes as no surprise that Handhandhand was founded by three designers in Shanghai, going by its uber-chic, modern aesthetic that's impeccably carried through its website, social media posts, product and retail design.
There are just four fragrances in its perfume range online, with tongue-in-cheek names like Black Sheep and White Lie. Still, there's something for every taste among them. Try Black Sheep, which features uncommon notes including lentisk (an evergreen shrub found mainly on the Greek island of Chios), labdanum (also known as rockrose) and incense, if you're up for something a little exotic, or the bergamot- and rose-based First Blush smells like a gorgeous bouquet.
What really stands out, though, is its home fragrance line, which comes in to-die-for designs, as well as its collection of scented sachets that's created in collaboration with international artists.
Available in Beijing and Shanghai.
7. SOULVENT
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The brand weaves a story for each and every perfume it has created – painting a vivid picture of scenes in China that has inspired the scent. Take, for example, its Crimson Snow – inspired by memories of winter in Beijing and street stalls selling tang hu lu (candied hawthorn fruit), it is a recreation of childhood memories during the Chinese New Year festivities. The fragrance features oriental notes of hawthorn, dried tangerine peel, plum and Pu-erh tea – a combination that instantly evokes the celebratory scene via olfactory imagery.
8. VOICE FROM THE SKY
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Founded by a Chinese perfumer whose family is in the fragrance business, and had studied perfumery in France, this perfume brand was set up to create new, refreshing perspectives of the Chinese perfumery scene.
Its creations are inspired by various artistic and cultural contexts, and features uniquely Chinese fragrance materials and notes. You can see it in Gentle King, a leather- and wood-based scent that is given an interesting edge with black pepper and Sichuan pepper. Talking to the Moon is another unusual scent – it has castoreum (a TCM ingredient derived from a beaver's anal glands) for an animalistic core, that's combined with incense and osmanthus.
