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Kashiigu Shrine: A gift from an empress

By Vicki L Beyer Kashiigu shrine in Fukuoka's Higashi Ward is a picturesque complex of vermillion and white structures surrounded by lush greenery that lend a feeling of serenity and repose. Last year the shrine celebrated 1,300 years since its founding, but its history actually goes back much further, all the way to 200 AD. The main shrine building sits atop a flight of stone stairs and is surrounded by cloisters. Image: Vicki L Beyer The Legend Legend has it that Emperor Chuai (149-200 AD) spent most of his years as emperor in the western part of Japan, possibly warring with various tribes in an attempt to consolidate his power and the nation. In 200 AD, while he was in what is today the city of Fukuoka, his wife, a shamaness known as Jingu (169-269 AD), had a vision that the gods desired him to continue west to Korea to vanquish enemies there. Chuai scoffed, saying that he could see no land to the west, only sea, even when he stood on the highest mountain. He refused to make plans to sail to Korea. Not long after ignoring his wife's prophecy (some legends say the very next day), Chuai died. His pregnant widow claimed the throne to rule as regent for her unborn child. She proceeded to conquer a number of Kyushu's tribes as well as to travel to Korea to pacify the three kingdoms then on the Korean peninsula, returning to Kyushu after two years. An artist's depiction of Empress Jingu preparing to set sail for Korea Image: Vicki L Beyer One component of Jingu's campaign to fulfill her husband's legacy was to establish Kashiigu shrine on the site of Chuai's death in order to appease the angry spirits that were believed to have killed him (he had, after all, ignored the message they had sent to him via Jingu's vision, namely to invade Korea). Throughout her lifetime, Jingu continued to honor her husband with prayers at Kashiigu. After her death, she was also enshrined there, reuniting the imperial couple in spirit. It is for this reason that Kashiigu shrine is also regarded as a romantic spot. Jingu's various military victories while pregnant has also made her popular to receive the prayers of expectant mothers wanting an easy delivery. The Shrine The current layout of the shrine and its grounds dates to the shrine's official founding in the eighth century, when it became one of only seventeen shrines in all of Japan at which imperial rites are conducted. These rites are conducted by an imperial envoy who arrives from the imperial court with gifts for the shrine and an imperial decree (actually a prayer) that the envoy relays to the gods. Various ancient customs must be followed when the rites are performed, requiring special permission from the Imperial Household Agency and assistance from senior priests of major shrines across Fukuoka Prefecture. An imperial envoy is expected to perform imperial rites at Kashiigu Shrine in 2025, the 110th such ritual at the shrine since 737 AD. The other deities at Kashiigu shrine are the Sumiyoshi Sanjin, three traditional gods of the sea and sea voyages. These gods are often enshrined together with Jingu and are doubtless credited with ensuring her safe voyage to Korea as well as her victorious return. The pond in front of the shrine has a Benten shrine on an island. Image: Vicki L Beyer Kashiigu shrine is situated on a slope, fronted by a pretty little pond that is home to decorative carp and lots of turtles, often seen sunning themselves on logs or stones. There is a little island in the pond with a small shrine to the goddess Benten. Small footbridges provide visitors with access from either side of the pond. In June floating boxes of purple iris turn the peaceful pond into a riot of color. The main shrine building, last rebuilt in 1801, is in a distinctive architectural style known as Kashii style. Its unique design, incorporating unusually sloped porticos and distinctive vermillion, verdigris and black lacquer, is acknowledged by the shrine's designation as an important cultural property. Visitors to the shrine offer prayers under its distinctive portico. Image: Vicki L Beyer Directly in front of the stairs leading to the main shrine building is a sacred pine tree, enclosed in a vermillion fence. The venerable tree is said to have been planted by Jingu in memory, or perhaps as an effigy, of her late husband. The Water At the back of the shrine grounds there is a signboard with a map showing the way to a spring known as Furosui (immortal water), a short walk away through a residential area. Along the way, there are stone markers showing the location of the original shrine established by Jingu in 200 AD and supposedly marking the place where Chuai died. Furosui spring is housed in a small shrine, with the water of the spring kept under a wooden cover. There are various tales of people whose lives were prolonged by its waters. Visitors may dip out a cup of water to drink to extend their own lives. It is said that this spring has never run dry. Furosui spring is housed in a small shrine and is said to have never run dry. Image: Vicki L Beyer The spring's sweet water and value as a tourist attraction has led it to be designated by the Japanese Ministry of the Environment as one of Japan's top 100 famous waters. The Way Kashiigu shrine is a 5-minute walk from Kashii Jingu station on the Kashii train line, or a 15-minute walk from Kashii Miyamae station on the Kaizuka train line. There is also ample parking near the entrance to the shrine. Vicki L Beyer, a regular Japan Today contributor, is a freelance travel writer who also blogs about experiencing Japan. Follow her blog at © Japan Today