3 days ago
The Essence Of Italian Olive Oils
Olive trees on a hillside near Loreto Aprutino, Abruzzo
Everyone knows that there is no such thing as Italian food; instead we speak of the cuisine of a specific region, such as Piedmont, Tuscany, Sicily, Veneto and every one of the other regions of the country, 20 in all.
Yet, when the conversation turns to Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO), most of the attention is focused on only one region - Tuscany. Liguria receives notable press for its lighter-styled oils, while there has been a good amount of press about Sicilian oils, but in many countries, especially in the United States, Tuscany is considered the spiritual home of Italian EVOO.
While I have tasted numerous EVOO from Tuscany and believe this is one of the best regions for this product, I want to call to attention three other regions where the oils are also excellent, namely Umbria, Marche and, my favorite region for EVOO, Abruzzo. I have to imagine that the fame of Tuscany has much to do with this region being the best known for its olive oils, but Abruzzo, Marche and Umbria are home to some of the finest EVOO in the world.
The author's favorite region for Extra Virgin Olive Oil in Italy is Abruzzo. Here are three examples: Marina Cvetic, Tommaso Masciantonio and Ciavolich
Most EVOO you see on retail shelves or on the table at an Italian restaurant in the US are produced by large companies. The quality ranges from average to very good, yet as they are made in large quantities, they are commercial in nature, and rarely communicate the potential of a top Italian EVOO. Those are produced by small to medium-size farms, some of them specializing in this product, while others are produced for or by wineries throughout Italy.
Most oils are blends of at least two or three cultivars; in Tuscany and elsewhere, the most common at Frantoio, Leccino and Moraiolo. Some Tuscan producers will produce an oil from a single cultivar; a common choice is from Frantoio. Blending several varieties of olives will result in a less intense, often more pleasing oil, while one made from a single cultivar tends to produce a more full-bodied, often spicier oil.
Producers in several regions have small productions of these single variety oils, which are called monocultivar. It's fascinating to taste the oils and compare them to blended ones, much in the same way as with a single vineyard wine as opposed to a blended one. It's not that the single variety oils or single site wines are better, it's that they're different, with blended offerings being more appealing to a wider range of consumers, while the more limited production oils and wines are meant for those with a more selective palate.
Among the most interesting monocultivar oils include Ascolana Tenera from Marche (Montecappone produces an excellent example), Intosso (Tommaso Masciantonio, a great olive oil producer, makes a stellar version), and Dritta. This last cultivar is primarily found in Abruzzo in the commune of Loreto Aprutino, one of the true capitals of Italian EVOO. Several of the area's best wine producers, including Valentini and Ciavolich make their oils exclusively from Dritta, while another, such as Torre dei Beati makes a blended oil incorporating Dritta.
Here are my notes on some of the most distinctive Italian extra virgin olive oils - all are from the 2024 harvest:
Outstanding
Ciavolich Monocultivar Dritta (Loreto Aprutino, Abruzzo) - Deep yellow green; aromas of green apple, celery and a hint of almond. Excellent balance and persistence; great fruitiness and minimal bitterness. Delicious! One of the most elegant and flavorful olive oils I have ever tasted.
Masciantonio Monocultivar Intosso (Casoli, Abruzzo) - Beautiful deep yellow green. Aromas of dried tomato, basil, apple and freshly picked pea. Full-boded, this is quite rich on the palate and has medium-full bitterness along with a slightly savory finish. Outstanding and highly distinctive!
Montecappone Monocultivar Ascolana Tenera (Jesi, Abruzzo) - Deep green with yellow hints. Aromas of celery, green apple and hints of almond and grass. Medium-full, with notable complexity, a lengthy finish and remarkable elegance; a marvelous oil with significant fruitiness and subtle bitterness.
Excellent
Antonelli Chiusa di Satriano (Montefalco, Umbria) - Medium-deep green; aromas of celery, asparagus and pine nut. Medium-full, this is quite rich and has notable persistence with a delicate bitterness in the finish. A lovely combination of appealing fruitiness and impressive harmony.
Terre Stregate Primo Fiore (Guardia Sanframondi, Campania) - A blend of ancient varieties: Ortice, Ortolana and Racioppella. Bright medium-deep yellow green; aromas of celery, pea and asparagus. Medium-full, with excellent richness on the palate, this is a beautifully made oil that is deeply fruity and has only a slight trace of bitterness.
Rocca di Montegrossi (Gaiole in Chianti, Tuscany) - Medium-deep green; attractive aromas of green apple, celery and green bean. Medium-full, this has a slight bitter finish, often referred to as the 'Tuscan itch.' Notes of fennel, grass and almond add complexity.
Colle Massari 2024 (Montecucco, Tuscany) - Medium-deep green; aromas of green apple and celery. Medium-bodied with excellent ripeness, good acidity and persistence. Very appealing, nicely balanced with notable typicity, appealing grassy notes and almost no bitterness in the finish; beautifully balanced.
Cantina Fratelli Pardi (Montefalco, Umbria) - Deep yellow green; aromas of green apple and celery. Medium-bodied, this has excellent fruit definition and impressive texture; the finish is quite harmonious. Very appealing, especially paired with soups and vegetables.
Marina Cvetic (Teramo, Abruzzo) - Medium-deep green; aromas of artichoke, apple peel, grass and peapod. Medium-full, rich fruit, slight bitterness; well-rounded finish, elegant and very satisfying.
Very Good
Porto di Mola Monocultivar Itrana (Galluccio, Campania) - Medium-deep green; aromas of apple, celery and almond. Medium-bodied with very good harmony and a delicate bitterness.
Bocale 2024 (Montefalco, Umbria) - Medium-deep green; aromas of celery, apple peel and a hint of pepper. Medium-bodied, this has a dry finish with almost no bitterness. Straightforward and nicely balanced, though a bit light.
Marina Cvetic (Teramo, Umbria)
Medium-deep green; aromas of artichoke, apple peel, grass and peapod. Medium-full, rich fruit, slight bitterness; well-rounded finish, elegant and very satisfying. (91)
