25-05-2025
How the military has defined menswear fashion
Military clothing, accessories and gadgets have time and again informed both menswear and womenswear. So much so that these army-inspired items—practical, durable and utilitarian—have become an integral part of our daily wardrobe over the years.
The ubiquitous trench coat, for instance. It was crafted for the soldiers of World War I by Thomas Burberry, the English fashion designer and the founder of the brand Burberry. This tough looking yet chic piece features a double-breasted closure with 10 front buttons, a storm flap, wide lapels, and pockets that button-close. Over the years, designers like Christopher Bailey and Riccardo Tisci have reimagined the coat, adding prints and embroideries.
The fatigue jacket is another example. Its origin can be traced to the basic uniform for British troops during World War II. This dust-hued khaki jacket with four pockets—two on the hips, two on the breasts—and all buttoned, has been recontextualised in textiles like leather and suede. Also, worth mentioning is the parka, another military offshoot, which usually comes with a furry hood and a zipper closure. Crafted in lightweight waterproof nylon and cotton construction, this utilitarian piece is said to have kept the US troops warm during the Korean war without obstructing movement.
Here are some other noteworthy derivatives from military apparels that have refined and redefined menswear clothing and accessories, and the story behind their origin.
Desert boots
In 1941, an employee of the Clark Shoe Company, Nathan Clark, was posted to Burma (now Myanmar) with the British Eighth Army. That's when he observed the soldiers' penchant for crepe-soled suede boots during their off-duty hours. He also figured out that Cairo cobblers created these lightweight yet tough boots for South African military men. Later, Nathan went on to craft a boot that garnered popularity in Europe and the US.
Cut to the present and brands like Woodland and Jack & Jones have offered a fashionable version of this historical footwear.
Wristwatch
Before the 20th century, the wristwatch was mostly seen as a feminine accessory. But that changed when the gentleman's pocket watch was replaced by the nifty wristwatch. In fact, the wristwatch became a strategic tool in World War I as troops aligned their combat formations based on predetermined times.
At present, brands like Seiko and G-Shocks offer an of-the-moment upgrade of these classic military timepieces. Kimura San, the managing director, Casio India, says their brand's G-SHOCK timepieces, some of which that are mud-resistant, are inspired from the military.
Also read: How to cinch it with a cummerbund like Shah Rukh Khan
Combat shoes
During the Napoleonic Wars, a Prussian officer observed that his troops were struggling with their boots. Hence he commissioned a reimagining of the typical combat boot in order to ensure that his men got ready quickly. This resulted in creation of a half boot, featuring two leather flaps below the ankles that could tie together. The flaps didn't meet at the base and facilitated a speedier battle prep.
Today, brands like Under Armour offer an athletic take on the tactical boots built with charged cushioning midsoles.
Aviator sunglasses
In 1936, Bausch & Lomb created sunglasses for pilots to shield their eyes while flying, hence the name aviator. These chic sunnies ensured pilots got a complete range of vision when wrestling the glaring sun and enemies. The timeless tear-drop shape of these sunglasses totally covered the eyes and enabled protection to the complete eye socket.
They've now become part of civilian life, with brands like Ray-Ban, Tom Ford and John Jacobs recontextualising them with gold accents and tortoiseshell tones.
"Aviators have an incredible legacy. The shape and function were all about ergonomics and performance, especially the teardrop lens design that helped protect pilots' eyes while flying. This shape continues to dominate both modern culture and style till date," says Apeksha Gupta, the chief executive officer of John Jacobs.
Chinos
The US Army first wore khaki uniforms in the Philippines during the Spanish-American war in the 1890s. They were crafted using textiles manufactured in China. The Army used the Spanish word for 'Chinese" (chino) to describe the khaki uniforms.
Post war, former troops resumed their academics and embraced this new style on varsity campus. Hence it became a synonym for the Ivy League, preppy look.
Military jackets
Today no closet is complete without a bomber or a flight jacket. The A2 Bomber jacket was a waist-length leather jacket that featured two front patch pockets and was issued in 1931 to keep pilots warm in open cockpits.
Today, it's been lent a fashionable edge by designers across the board, who've presented it with prints and textures.
Another tailored piece worth mentioning is the duffle coat, which was a go-to piece for the British Royal Navy during WWI and II. Instantly identifiable for its toggle closure, the jacket was crafted for sailors to fasten and unhook the jacket while wearing gloves at sea. Heritage brands like Burberry and Louis Vuitton have given it a polished makeover.
Pea coat is another example. It was originally used by the Dutch at the height of their naval power in the 16th century. The pea coat features a double-breasted closure with large metal or plastic buttons, a wide notched collar and lapel, and vertical or slash pockets.
At present, it makes for a dapper winter layering essential and a smart alternative to a single breasted suit.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.
Also read: How to make knitwear cool for summer
