19 hours ago
How to spend the perfect day in Cartagena, the Colombian city with a Caribbean heart
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Cartagena — a lively city on Colombia's northern Caribbean coast — has always moved to the rhythm of its own drum. It's where the jaunty beats of cumbia music fill a UNESCO-stamped historical quarter, where innovative cocktail bars and trendy coffeeshops are never too far away and where some of Latin America's most talented chefs use indigenous ingredients to create exquisite Colombian-Caribbean dishes. Throw in ample green space and a live music scene that lasts until the early hours, and you have a fun city break that'll please all the senses. 9am: Fuel up with caffeine
There's only one way to start the day in Cartagena: with coffee. At Epoca, an all-day artisanal cafe in Centro Histórico, take a seat by the window and order one of the specialty coffees. Go for local favourite Colonia Coco, grown in the country's Andean region, which has notes of coconut, butter and chocolate. The food menu ranges from the classic arepa de huevo to waffles coated in hollandaise sauce with ham and bacon salt. 11am: Admire arts and crafts
Duck into the Museo de Arte Moderno on Plaza de San Pedro Claver — part of the 17th-century former Royal Customs House — to see works by artists from across Colombia and Latin America. Spend an hour here before heading to the nearby Ajá Company; it's a great spot to buy artisanal products, such as handbags made using natural fibres and raw materials. 1.30pm: Have an elevated lunch
Jaime Rodriguez creates exquisite contemporary Caribbean dishes at Celele, an upscale restaurant in the neighbourhood of Getsemani. The menu features dishes including buffalo-milk burrata with moringa-plant sorbet and roasted watermelon, and flower salad with pickled cashews. The interior is an eccentric mix of exposed brick and gargantuan murals depicting the people and wildlife of Colombia. 3pm: Get to know Getsemani
Mural-swathed Getsemani brims with bars, restaurants and a mishmash of both low-budget and luxury hotels. Yet it's still very much local — the sort of place where Cartageneros sip rum roadside while blasting out African-influenced beats. To explore the area with a snack, book a tour with Foodies. Highlights include popping into a local home to try arepas de huevos and chicha de maíz (a local corn drink). Find dishes like sunflower petals and plum tree leaves in a broth of lemon juice and fish bone at Celele, a contemporary Caribbean restaurant run by chef Jaime Rodriguez. Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch 6pm: Explore parks and squares
Ambling the city's squares and green spaces is a great way to while away the early evening. In Getsemani, Plaza de la Trinidad is home to street music, fast-food vendors and locals sitting kerb-side with a drink. A short walk towards Plaza de los Coches, a lively square just outside the old city walls, will take you through wildlife-rich Parque del Centenario, home to monkeys, sloths and tropical birds. 7.30pm: Dine like a local
La Laguna Azul in Getsemani is part restaurant, part liquor shop, and has a mostly Colombian clientele. Start the night in the leafy courtyard and enjoy the live music with a Cartagena Mangle, a local pale ale. Order the ceviche levanta muerto, meaning 'ceviche to raise the dead', with prawns, calamari and octopus served in a fiery bloody mary sauce. Calle de la Media Luna 8 9pm: Listen to live music
Café Havana in Getsemani draws crowds with salsa tunes from local stars like Joe Arroyo and a live band that kicks off around 10pm. It can get crowded, so it's best to book a table ahead of time. For something a little more mellow, head to cosy Mientras — a bar and art gallery in Centro Histórico — which has a good mix of drinks, desserts and local DJ sets. 11pm: Sample more nightlife
El Barón on Plaza de San Pedro Claver is the ideal cosy, late-night spot for wine, beer or a well-crafted cocktail. It has two indoor spaces as well as a huge courtyard right opposite San Pedro Claver church. There's a menu of Cuban and Colombian rums and cigars, too. Come nightfall, it hosts regular DJ sets from local artists spinning cumbia, hip-hop and disco. Getting there & around
Avianca flies from London to Cartagena via Bogotá.
Average flight time: Centro Histórico and Getsemani neighbourhoods are a short distance from each other, and easy to explore on foot. For places further afield, taxis or Uber are by far the quickest and most convenient mode of transport. The modern bus system, TransCaribe, operates across the city; cash isn't accepted on board so you must have a pre-purchased card to ride. A single journey costs COP$3,000 (56p).
When to go Cartagena has a tropical climate. The best time to visit is during the dry season between December and April, when there is little rainfall and temperatures are pleasantly warm, averaging around 27C. August to the end of November are considered the wettest months, resulting in cheaper hotel and flight prices.
Where to stay
Hotel Caribe Cartagena. Rooms from COP$687,480 (£128), B&B.
Sofitel Santa Clara. Rooms from COP$1,570,544 (£294), B&B.
More info
The Rough Guide to Colombia, £15.99.
How to do it:
Journey Latin America has a 15-day highlights trip, with three nights in Cartagena, starting from £4,600 per person. It includes international and domestic flights, transfers, excursions and good-quality hotels on a B&B basis.
This story was created with the support of Journey Latin America. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
