Latest news with #Commandaria
Forbes
15-05-2025
- Forbes
A Long History On Cyprus Of Family-Made Commandaria At Karseras Winery
Filippos Karseras and Panayiotis Karseras of the Karseras Family Winery, Doros, Cyprus, copyright BKWine Photography BKWine Photography Commandaria is probably the oldest recognised wine denomination still in use. Its name refers to an estate conquered during one of the crusades, 700 or 800 years ago. More recently, in the 20th century, it lived a quiet and peaceful life, produced by only a handful of big producers, not much seen outside of Cyprus. But in recent decades, there's a new dynamism in the region. Small family producers with new ideas have started to make new-wave commandaria. I talked with Filippos Karseras who owns the Karseras Winery, one of the first 'growers' commandaria', together with his father Panayiotis. Some olive trees in Cyprus are estimated to be over 2,000 years old. That means that even though commandaria is the oldest named wine type in the world (wine of a recognised name), some of the trees on the island had been growing for more than 1000 years before commandaria became famous. But even if it is an ancient wine type, until recently, there were only a handful of very large producers making it. An ancient olive tree at the Karseras Winery, Doros, Cyprus, copyright BKWine Photography BKWine Photography But having a long history does not guarantee fame, so what is commandaria wine? It is a sweet wine made in Cyprus. Two grape varieties are used, both indigenous, the red mavro and the white xynisteri. After harvest the grapes are left in the sun to dry. It is then fermented into a sweet wine, usually fortified. One can compare it to a sweet port or madeira or to a vin santo or vin de paille, but it is a limping comparison. Commandaria is a style of its own. One of the pioneers of 'growers' commandaria' is the Karseras Winery. It was established as a commandaria-producing winery in 1998. But the family had been growing grapes long before that. The winery was founded by Panayiotis Karseras and his wife Lenia. One of their four sons, also named Panayiotis Karseras, and the grandson Filippos Karseras, now run the winery. The old Karseras Family Winery, Doros, Cyprus, copyright BKWine Photography BKWine Photography Clay jars, "pitharia", used for winemaking in Cyprus fur hundreds of years at the Karseras Winery, Doros, Cyprus, copyright BKWine Photography BKWine Photography However, even though it is a young winery, it has a long history. I asked Filippos how long his family had been making wine, 'Literally, since forever. The University has told us that the first Karseras in our area were mentioned in the 11th century,' Filippos explained. No doubt there has been a family production from the vineyards they own since, well, probably not forever, but for a long, long time. But this was not commercially sold. The commercial market was dominated for most of the 20th century by four large companies until what I could call the revival of the Cypriot wine industry around the time Karseras began. The Karseras Winery is in the Doros (Dhoros) village, just half an hour from the city of Limassol on the south coast of Cyprus. It is one of the fourteen villages on the southern slopes of the Troodos mountain range making commandaria. Karseras is entirely focused on producing Commandaria. They don't make any table wine on a commercial scale. They have around 15 hectares of vines. The vineyards are spread across six of the 14 commandaria villages. The main grape variety is the red (black) mavro, with a little bit of the white xynisteri. Vines in the vineyard of the Karseras Family Winery, Doros, Cyprus, copyright BKWine Photography BKWine Photography Today, there are two different types of commandaria: fortified and non-fortified. Both are made from very sweet sun-dried grapes. Traditionally, fortified was the only method used commercially, but now it is also allowed to produce non-fortified commandaria, This seems to be the preferred method among smaller producers. Filippos is a firm believer in the non-fortified approach. 'When you put spirit in it, you kill everything,' he says. They use stainless steel for vinification, then let the wine age in barrels, and finally in bottles. The 'Family Edition' of their commandaria has spent two years in barrel and undergoes a light filtering before bottling. For this wine, they use 90-95% mavro and the rest is xynisteri. It is sold in a curious short and tubby bottle with an original label with an old man with wispy hair and a long beard. But that's why it is called the Family edition. The man on the label is a portrait of the founder of the winery, who was also a priest in the village for 60 years, namely Father Panayiotis Karseras. The wine is quite light, sweet, of course, but modestly so and very elegant with a distinctly refreshing acidity. Karseras Winery Commandaria, Family Edition and Platinum, Doros, Cyprus, copyright BKWine Photography BKWine Photography For their more expensive prestige wine, called 'Platinum', they don't do any filtering; instead, they let it age for twenty years. The current vintage is 2005. It is intensely sweet, with 155 grams of sugar per litre. But this, too, is comparatively light in body, in a very elegant style, with intense flavours of sweet apricot marmalade and fresh apricots, honey, spices... Since this wine is unfiltered it can have a slight deposit. In the yard outside the winery, there is a row of some ancient-looking olive trees. They may not be thousands of years old, but they were certainly there and already old when Father Panayiotis, founder of the winery, was born—a history to nurture with care. —Per Karlsson
South China Morning Post
13-03-2025
- Entertainment
- South China Morning Post
Praised by Homer in ancient Greece, can the world's oldest recorded wine make a comeback?
Praised by the ancient Greek literary giants Homer and Euripides for its superb quality nearly 3,000 years ago, Cyprus' Commandaria is the world's oldest recorded and named wine. Advertisement Despite its rich heritage, the sweet wine has struggled to find its niche in the global market. Now a number of micro-wineries in the eastern Mediterranean island nation are reviving traditional winemaking techniques and giving Commandaria a chance at a long-awaited comeback. Makers hope to tap rich legends around the ruby red wine. It is said to have won the world's first known wine competition during the 13th century rule of French King Philippe Augustus. English King Richard the Lionheart is said to have served it to guests at his 1191 wedding in Cyprus. And 14th century Mayor of London Henry Picard reputedly indulged the leaders of England, France, Scotland, Denmark and Cyprus in the Feast of the Five Kings. Bottles of Commandaria wine on a table at the Karsera Winery in the village of Dhoros, in Cyprus. The wine is said to have been served to royalty for centuries. Photo: AP The wine, known as nama in antiquity, was renamed by the medieval Knights Hospitaller, who set up headquarters during the Third Crusade at an estate known for its wine production that they named Grande Commanderie.
The Independent
10-03-2025
- The Independent
Micro-wineries in Cyprus hope to give the world's oldest named wine a comeback
Praised by the ancient Greek giants Homer and Euripides for its superb quality nearly 3,000 years ago, Cyprus' Commandaria is the world's oldest recorded and named wine. Despite its rich heritage, the sweet wine has struggled to find its niche in the global market. Now a number of micro-wineries in this east Mediterranean island nation are reviving traditional wine-making techniques and giving Commandaria a chance at a long-awaited comeback. Makers hope to tap rich legends around the ruby red wine. It's said to have won the world's first known wine competition during the 13th century rule of French King Philippe Augustus. English King Richard the Lionheart is said to have served it to guests at his 1191 wedding in Cyprus. And 14th century Mayor of London Henry Picard reputedly indulged the leaders of England, France, Scotland, Denmark and Cyprus in the Feast of the Five Kings. The wine, known as 'nama' in antiquity, was renamed by the medieval Knights Hospitaller, who set up headquarters during the Third Crusade at an estate known for its wine production that they named Grande Commanderie. The island's Orthodox Church later adopted Commandaria as its communion wine during Byzantine times. Production peaked when Venice ruled Cyprus in the 15th and 16th centuries and prized the wine for its sweetness and complex bouquet. Now bottles are sold for around 20 euros ($20) to up to 150. The wine's notes of honey, raisin, walnut, fig, carob, cinnamon, coffee and caramel are attributed to the island's rich volcanic soil, said Christakis Nicolaou, community leader of Zoopigi village, home to the Commandaria museum. Annual production of the wine in recent years hovered at around 200,000 bottles because demand tapered off, according to Savvas Constantinou, a beverage inspector with Cyprus' agriculture and environment ministry. One factor is the exclusion of some 800,000 Commandaria-loving Russian tourists as a result of sanctions imposed following Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine. Constantinou said a bid to expand into the massive Chinese market made headway five years ago but wavered after producers couldn't meet demand. Wine expert Demetri Walters, who holds the prestigious title of Master of Wines, said Commandaria sales haven't gained much traction abroad primarily because of a lack of marketing. For instance, the island's main producer KEO have been slow to understand the potential of the wine, particularly their older vintages. 'A shame, as their Commandaria wines are very good,' Walters told the Associated Press. 'The unique and antique history, the extraordinary quality across the two styles and the terrific value for who tastes it for the first time with me is blown away by the complexity of the wine.' Walters said although sweet wines are 'out of fashion' except in the specialist trade, this is slowly changing for Commandaria. He said the wine was entered the UK market in recent years, but as a niche offering. Wineries such as Revecca in the mountain village of Ayios Mamas have found a steady domestic and foreign following, with sales on an upward swing since it opened in 2015. Its Commandaria last year won top prize at the national wine competition. The winery employs three people and produces 3,000 bottles a year. Winery curator Nikolas Christodoulides said he's experimenting with bespoke varieties catering to clients' tastes. 'Our focus is on improving quality rather than being fixated on quantity,' Christodoulides said. The approach has worked for one Israeli couple who, according to Christodoulides, flies to Cyprus just to replenish their stock. Commandaria is made with dark Mavro and white Xynisteri grapes that are indigenous to Cyprus. They are left in the sunshine after harvest for seven to 12 days to bring out the distinctive sweetness. The wine is matured in reused oak barrels for at least two years in line with strict production laws to conform with the European Union's protected designation of origin. That means authentic Commandaria comes only from 14 villages on the southern face of the Troodos mountain range, where they're exposed to sunlight throughout the day. Some wineries produce a darker, sweeter version made strictly from the Mavro grapes. That version is preferred at the Karseras winery in the village of Doros, with an annual average production of 40 tons. Manager Philippos Karseras is encouraged by an upswing in domestic consumption, though it isn't quite enough to make up for the loss of the Russian market. But those running the Revecca winery believe that these small wineries will gradually win back consumers. 'We have ensure the consistency of our product's quality first and win over the domestic market before we can make a collective push to market Commandaria abroad,' Christodoulides said.
Yahoo
10-03-2025
- Yahoo
Micro-wineries in Cyprus hope to give the world's oldest named wine a comeback
NICOSIA, Cyprus (AP) — Praised by the ancient Greek giants Homer and Euripides for its superb quality nearly 3,000 years ago, Cyprus' Commandaria is the world's oldest recorded and named wine. Despite its rich heritage, the sweet wine has struggled to find its niche in the global market. Now a number of micro-wineries in this east Mediterranean island nation are reviving traditional wine-making techniques and giving Commandaria a chance at a long-awaited comeback. Makers hope to tap rich legends around the ruby red wine. See for yourself — The Yodel is the go-to source for daily news, entertainment and feel-good stories. By signing up, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Policy. It's said to have won the world's first known wine competition during the 13th century rule of French King Philippe Augustus. English King Richard the Lionheart is said to have served it to guests at his 1191 wedding in Cyprus. And 14th century Mayor of London Henry Picard reputedly indulged the leaders of England, France, Scotland, Denmark and Cyprus in the Feast of the Five Kings. The wine, known as 'nama' in antiquity, was renamed by the medieval Knights Hospitaller, who set up headquarters during the Third Crusade at an estate known for its wine production that they named Grande Commanderie. The island's Orthodox Church later adopted Commandaria as its communion wine during Byzantine times. Production peaked when Venice ruled Cyprus in the 15th and 16th centuries and prized the wine for its sweetness and complex bouquet. Now bottles are sold for around 20 euros ($20) to up to 150. The wine's notes of honey, raisin, walnut, fig, carob, cinnamon, coffee and caramel are attributed to the island's rich volcanic soil, said Christakis Nicolaou, community leader of Zoopigi village, home to the Commandaria museum. Annual production of the wine in recent years hovered at around 200,000 bottles because demand tapered off, according to Savvas Constantinou, a beverage inspector with Cyprus' agriculture and environment ministry. One factor is the exclusion of some 800,000 Commandaria-loving Russian tourists as a result of sanctions imposed following Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine. Constantinou said a bid to expand into the massive Chinese market made headway five years ago but wavered after producers couldn't meet demand. Wine expert Demetri Walters, who holds the prestigious title of Master of Wines, said Commandaria sales haven't gained much traction abroad primarily because of a lack of marketing. For instance, the island's main producer KEO have been slow to understand the potential of the wine, particularly their older vintages. 'A shame, as their Commandaria wines are very good,' Walters told the Associated Press. 'The unique and antique history, the extraordinary quality across the two styles and the terrific value for who tastes it for the first time with me is blown away by the complexity of the wine.' Walters said although sweet wines are 'out of fashion' except in the specialist trade, this is slowly changing for Commandaria. He said the wine was entered the UK market in recent years, but as a niche offering. Wineries such as Revecca in the mountain village of Ayios Mamas have found a steady domestic and foreign following, with sales on an upward swing since it opened in 2015. Its Commandaria last year won top prize at the national wine competition. The winery employs three people and produces 3,000 bottles a year. Winery curator Nikolas Christodoulides said he's experimenting with bespoke varieties catering to clients' tastes. 'Our focus is on improving quality rather than being fixated on quantity,' Christodoulides said. The approach has worked for one Israeli couple who, according to Christodoulides, flies to Cyprus just to replenish their stock. Commandaria is made with dark Mavro and white Xynisteri grapes that are indigenous to Cyprus. They are left in the sunshine after harvest for seven to 12 days to bring out the distinctive sweetness. The wine is matured in reused oak barrels for at least two years in line with strict production laws to conform with the European Union's protected designation of origin. That means authentic Commandaria comes only from 14 villages on the southern face of the Troodos mountain range, where they're exposed to sunlight throughout the day. Some wineries produce a darker, sweeter version made strictly from the Mavro grapes. That version is preferred at the Karseras winery in the village of Doros, with an annual average production of 40 tons. Manager Philippos Karseras is encouraged by an upswing in domestic consumption, though it isn't quite enough to make up for the loss of the Russian market. But those running the Revecca winery believe that these small wineries will gradually win back consumers. 'We have ensure the consistency of our product's quality first and win over the domestic market before we can make a collective push to market Commandaria abroad,' Christodoulides said.
Associated Press
10-03-2025
- Associated Press
Micro-wineries in Cyprus hope to give the world's oldest named wine a comeback
NICOSIA, Cyprus (AP) — Praised by the ancient Greek giants Homer and Euripides for its superb quality nearly 3,000 years ago, Cyprus' Commandaria is the world's oldest recorded and named wine. Despite its rich heritage, the sweet wine has struggled to find its niche in the global market. Now a number of micro-wineries in this east Mediterranean island nation are reviving traditional wine-making techniques and giving Commandaria a chance at a long-awaited comeback. Makers hope to tap rich legends around the ruby red wine. It's said to have won the world's first known wine competition during the 13th century rule of French King Philippe Augustus. English King Richard the Lionheart is said to have served it to guests at his 1191 wedding in Cyprus. And 14th century Mayor of London Henry Picard reputedly indulged the leaders of England, France, Scotland, Denmark and Cyprus in the Feast of the Five Kings. The wine, known as 'nama' in antiquity, was renamed by the medieval Knights Hospitaller, who set up headquarters during the Third Crusade at an estate known for its wine production that they named Grande Commanderie. The island's Orthodox Church later adopted Commandaria as its communion wine during Byzantine times. Production peaked when Venice ruled Cyprus in the 15th and 16th centuries and prized the wine for its sweetness and complex bouquet. Now bottles are sold for around 20 euros ($20) to up to 150. The wine's notes of honey, raisin, walnut, fig, carob, cinnamon, coffee and caramel are attributed to the island's rich volcanic soil, said Christakis Nicolaou, community leader of Zoopigi village, home to the Commandaria museum. Annual production of the wine in recent years hovered at around 200,000 bottles because demand tapered off, according to Savvas Constantinou, a beverage inspector with Cyprus' agriculture and environment ministry. One factor is the exclusion of some 800,000 Commandaria-loving Russian tourists as a result of sanctions imposed following Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine. Constantinou said a bid to expand into the massive Chinese market made headway five years ago but wavered after producers couldn't meet demand. Wine expert Demetri Walters, who holds the prestigious title of Master of Wines, said Commandaria sales haven't gained much traction abroad primarily because of a lack of marketing. For instance, the island's main producer KEO have been slow to understand the potential of the wine, particularly their older vintages. 'A shame, as their Commandaria wines are very good,' Walters told the Associated Press. 'The unique and antique history, the extraordinary quality across the two styles and the terrific value for who tastes it for the first time with me is blown away by the complexity of the wine.' Walters said although sweet wines are 'out of fashion' except in the specialist trade, this is slowly changing for Commandaria. He said the wine was entered the UK market in recent years, but as a niche offering. Wineries such as Revecca in the mountain village of Ayios Mamas have found a steady domestic and foreign following, with sales on an upward swing since it opened in 2015. Its Commandaria last year won top prize at the national wine competition. The winery employs three people and produces 3,000 bottles a year. Winery curator Nikolas Christodoulides said he's experimenting with bespoke varieties catering to clients' tastes. 'Our focus is on improving quality rather than being fixated on quantity,' Christodoulides said. The approach has worked for one Israeli couple who, according to Christodoulides, flies to Cyprus just to replenish their stock. Commandaria is made with dark Mavro and white Xynisteri grapes that are indigenous to Cyprus. They are left in the sunshine after harvest for seven to 12 days to bring out the distinctive sweetness. The wine is matured in reused oak barrels for at least two years in line with strict production laws to conform with the European Union's protected designation of origin. That means authentic Commandaria comes only from 14 villages on the southern face of the Troodos mountain range, where they're exposed to sunlight throughout the day. Some wineries produce a darker, sweeter version made strictly from the Mavro grapes. That version is preferred at the Karseras winery in the village of Doros, with an annual average production of 40 tons. Manager Philippos Karseras is encouraged by an upswing in domestic consumption, though it isn't quite enough to make up for the loss of the Russian market. But those running the Revecca winery believe that these small wineries will gradually win back consumers. 'We have ensure the consistency of our product's quality first and win over the domestic market before we can make a collective push to market Commandaria abroad,' Christodoulides said.
