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Boston Globe

Concord's Fife and Drum prison restaurant is revolutionary

The sunlit dining area features a few tables and plain cafeteria chairs, each set with paper napkins and basic silverware (except for the knives, which are plastic). The waitstaff is polite and attentive. In the small kitchen, other employees bustle over the daily-changing menu. Its name, inspired by a former dining room at the nearby Concord Colonial Inn, is an unique example of the enduring Revolutionary spirit that continues to shape Concord's culture. While the inmates working at the Fife and Drum may not give much thought to its name, their journey toward rehabilitation embraces freedom and independence, the very principles that fueled the American Revolution 250 years ago. But for them, the battle is between past mistakes and the pursuit of a better future. 'Every day, I'm trying to be better, learning from my mistakes … trying to make something of myself,' said inmate Alija Rosa, the restaurant's head baker. 'I don't want to end up in the same situation as before.' Advertisement Under the guidance of culinary instructor Eddie Jacobs, the restaurant prepares inmates for life after release. They have the chance to earn the ServSafe, a safety training certification, and develop skills to improve their job prospects. 'The goal is to get these guys ready for the world ... so they don't come back,' as Jacobs puts it. Advertisement Inmate Alija Rosa, head baker at the Fife and Drum, presents the daily dessert: "Our version of s'mores." Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff For Rosa, who never considered himself a 'creative person,' the Fife and Drum has ignited a personal revolution. 'I found something that I'm passionate about. I dance with the measuring spoon, I sing back there,' he laughs. 'I'm having fun with it.' Transformation is within everyone's reach if they have the willpower, Rosa says. 'The first step comes from within a person.' But the opportunity at the Fife and Drum is unique, and 'I'd be a fool to ignore it.' He has already secured a catering position through a job fair organized by the program. Culinary instructor Eddie Jacobs teaches soon-to-be-released inmates how to cook and serve meals, equipping them with skills for life after release. Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff Another inmate, 34-year-old Dwayne Reavis, had worked in many restaurants . But at the Fife and Drum, he's thinking about how his life has changed, and could for those who follow. When he returns home to Worcester, he wants to cook for his son and daughter, to 'show them what I've learned.' He envisions launching a food truck called 'Crazy Fries,' serving battered waffle fries with toppings ranging from buffalo chicken to mac 'n' cheese. Jacobs has offered helpful advice and guidance on programs for formerly incarcerated individuals looking to start their own businesses. Inmate Dwayne Reavis works as a waiter at the Fife and Drum, a role he chose "because I'm a people person," he said. Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff The Fife and Drum also plays a vital role in providing inmates a sense of the shared history and culture of the larger community. The center, a pre-release facility for men, is located on acres of farmland where inmates also grow crops, providing key ingredients for meals made at the restaurant. Surplus food is also donated to local senior citizens and food pantries, said Dean Gray, the prison's superintendent. Since it opened in the 1970s, the Fife and Drum remains the only prison-based restaurant in the country open to the public. Despite strict rules — no phones or wallets allowed, and patrons must bring exactly $3.21 in cash to pay for their meal — the restaurant is busy during its one-hour lunch service from 11:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Tuesday through Friday. Advertisement The offerings on the daily-changing menu are a far cry from prison fare, such as cream of broccoli soup. Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff 'There are locals who come every day,' said Gray. 'They're on a first-name basis with [the inmates].' Interacting with regular patrons helps inmates build meaningful relationships with the community, crucial for overcoming the stigma of incarceration, according to Gray. 'They're still human beings ... They're going to go home. They're going to be your neighbors,' Gray said. In Concord, the spirit of the American Revolution commonly is honored through reenactments, historical exhibitions, and commemorative ceremonies. The town is gearing up for the 250th anniversary of the Battles of Lexington and Concord on April 19. At its heart, appreciation of the revolutionary spirit is rooted in the belief in the power of change — the fight for a country where individuals can live freely and shape (or reshape) their own futures. The inclusion of the Fife and Drum as part of the Concord community, along with recognizing inmates as community members upon their release, also pays tribute to that history. 'We're trying to break the cycle,' Gray said. 'And for the community to open up like it has ... it means a lot.' Superintendent Dean Gray believes that inmates' ability to engage with the public is vital to overcoming the stigma associated with incarceration. Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff Rita Chandler can be reached at