07-04-2025
Curt Frasca - From Producing Hit Records To Producing Barbera
Curt Frasca in his estate vineyards
Barbera d'Asti is a curious wine, one that has appealing blackberry and black plum flavors with zippy acidity, but only moderate tannins. This flavor profile has made it popular with many consumers looking for a red wine with excellent character that you don't have to wait for several years before you drink it.
Now Barbera doesn't have the glitzy identity that other reds from the Piedmont region, such as Barolo and Barbaresco have, wines that are produced from the Nebbiolo grape, with the best examples capable of aging for 20-30 years and even longer, but when you want to enjoy a medium-bodied red that works with so many foods, from barbecued ribs to pastas with tomato sauce to roast pork or chicken, Barbera d'Asti works beautifully.
Curt Frasca produces several types of Barbera d'Asti, and is betting that consumers will turn to Barbera more often these days. I, for one wouldn't argue with him, especially based on his prior success. A native Long Islander, Frasca moved to New York City proper in his teens, and admits he was always fascinated by lights and buttons; this came from seeing the work of his father, who was employed by Grumman Aircraft Corporation, a company that NASA worked with for their space program. 'I always liked music, and somehow I found myself into recording on Long Island when I was very young - 12 or 13 - and that's how it started for me,' he remarks.
Fracsa notes that this small studio on Long Island was the center for, the emergence of Hip Hop. 'I got the opportunity with Queen Latifah and 3rd Bass … it was the birth of sampling.' He then worked with De La Soul, whose popularity took off, as Frasca remembers. He then moved into the city at 16 or 17 years of age, and left school to become a mixer, and then a producer and songwriter. He followed that by starting a music publishing company; he enjoyed great success when he partnered with a private equity firm, basically buying copyrights and developing new artists.
So how did he move from the recording business to owning a winery in Italy? 'After 20 years, I just walked away from the whole creative side of things.' He got into cooking, loved wine, and recalls that he just sort of dove into that interest. He started to travel to Europe and admits a fondness for Northern Italy. He immersed himself with Barolo and Barbaresco, but 'fell in love with Nizza and Monferrato.' (Monferrato is the territory in Asti province where Nizza, a more complex, richer and more distinctive version of Barbera d'Asti is produced).
La Guaragna vineyard of Frasca
Frasca currently produces various bottlings of Barbera d'Asti, including a charming, fruit-dominated version that I described as 'delicious," a term he approved of. His top two examples are both Nizza: one a blend of fruit from three communes, and the other labeled as Nizza La Veja; the latter is produced from the eponymous vineyard near Agliano Terme; the vines here are 90-plus-years old. There is also a very fine Grignolino and Freisa, as well as two whites: Riesling and a Monferrato Bianco, a blend of Arneis and Rhine Riesling.
Frasca gives a lot of credit for his success at the winery to his winemaker Matteo Gerbi. Frasca recalls that his initial encounter was a chance meeting through acquaintances. 'We started talking, and I told him what I wanted to do. We saw the same thing; we really felt the same language, so it was cool … we met and it was meant to be.' Frasca remembers that Gerbi and he toured many vineyards, tasting everything they could; he also toured a barrel maker in Italy (Gamba) and even went to one company to see how the bottles were made. 'It was just a blank page, and it was from the soil up. That's sort of how it progressed, and how it continues.'
Barbera vineyard in Agliano Terme used as a source for Frasca
Barbera is the most widely planted red varietal in Piedmont, and for a long time, it's been considered an minor, everyday wine that perhaps is not anything special. Frasca however, sees things differently. 'It (the identity of Barbera) is changing because of Nizza. You know we're seeing it here at restaurants, and consumers are excited about Nizza; they're excited about the expression."
What does Frasca have to say to consumers about Barbera? 'For me, what I like is the acid, but also when it's well balanced, it's a wine that goes well with a lot of different foods. One of the things I was fascinated by is its ageablity. When it's done right, the wines can age, and that was something we really focused on. You know we're still young - our first vintage was 2019.'
Frasca is off to an impressive start; he has an excellent importer in New York City, as well as in Sweden and Japan, where sales are strong. But given his accomplishments in the music industry, would you expect anything less than notable success from him?
Notes on current releases of Frasca wines:
Monferrato Bianco 'Sèj' 2023 (Monferrato Bianco DOC) - A blend of 85% Arneis, 15% Rhine Riesling, aged in steel. Aromas of pear jelly, green apples and a hint of musk oil. Medium-bodied, with very good acidity, this offers very good freshness, and is cleanly made and quite tasty. Pair with lighter Oriental cuisine and enjoy over the next 2-3 years. (90)
Freisa d'Asti 2023 (DOC) - 100% Freisa from grapes grown in the commune of Moasca; the vines average 20 years of age. There are 30% whole bunches; maturation for four months in large oak barrels. Bright, deep garnet with purple tints; aromas of cranberry, red plum, myrtle and violet. Medium-bodied, this is a fresh, easy drinking red, with very good acidity and moderate tannins that sneak up on you in the finish. Pair with tomato-based soups or lighter preparations of pork or chicken and enjoy over the next 3-5 years. (91)
Barbera d'Asti 2021 (DOCG) - Aromas of blackberry, clove and lavender. Medium-bodied, with excellent ripeness, very good depth of fruit, lively acidity and moderate tannins. There is notable complexity and excellent typicity, along with very good persistence; the finish displays appealing notes of nutmeg and oregano. Very well made, this is delicious and is fine example of classic Barbera d'Asti. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. (92)
Nizza 2021 (DOCG) - 100% Barbera from the communes of Nizza Monferrato, Agliano Terme and Moasca; the average of the vines is 30 years; matured for six months in large oak barrels. Bright ruby red/light purple; aromas of plum, myrtle, juniper, fennel, anise and lavender. Medium-full tannins that are round and well-integrated. Impressive typicity and complexity. Enjoy over the next 2-4 years. (92)
Nizza La Veja 2020 (DOCG) - From a single vineyard in Agliano Terme; the vines are 90 plus-years old; matured for six months in an old large oak barrel. Medium deep ruby red; aromas of black plum, blackberry, myrtle and black pansy. Medium-full, there is good acidity, moderate tannins and good persistence, along with very fine typicity. This needs time in the glass to open up and also a year or two to display its best qualities. Peak in 4-5 years. (90)
