a day ago
Come nightfall in Nakano, Thai eatery Orangutan opens its arms
Strolling down a side street of Tokyo's Nakano neighborhood one recent Sunday evening to rendezvous with friends for dinner, I pass by a side entrance to the Nakano Broadway shopping center before reaching my destination and doing a double take: I knew that the Portland, Oregon-inspired Lou, one of my favorite cafes, had begun closing in the late afternoons to let Orangutan, a dinnertime concept featuring northeastern Thai food, take over. But I still can't believe its transformation.
The bright daytime energy of the cafe now gives way to an intimate evening vibe replete with low lighting, Thai-style decor and a sign outside proclaiming the new eatery as an 'original jungle curry and funky music spot.'
The space is the childhood home of owner Daisuke Matsushima, whose career in the restaurant industry began when he opened Paddlers Coffee in 2013 in Shibuya's Sangubashi neighborhood as a popup, which got its own home in 2015 as a cafe in the quiet backstreets of nearby Nishihara. Matsushima had acquired the license to serve Stumptown Coffee from Portland, where he had lived as a teen, learning English and joining the local skateboarding community.
He opened Lou as a sister shop in Nakano in 2021, taking over and refurbishing the space that was once his family's watch, jewelry and eyewear business. The eyeglass-shaped overhead lamps are a nod to this history.
While Lou gained a steady following and solid reviews, Matsushima says there were also slow business days, which prompted him to consider a new business model. After his favorite Thai restaurant, Thai no Gohan Lark Pakuchi located in the Shimokitazawa area, closed in 2022, he stayed in touch with its chef, Ryo Uchiyama. A fan of Thai food since his Portland days, it occurred to him: Why not recruit Uchiyama to create Thai food at night? This was the seed for Orangutan, the name of an ape native to Malaysia and Indonesia. Matsushima chose the moniker because he liked the different way the word resonated in Japanese and English.
Daisuke Matsushima (center, with cap), chef Ryo Uchiyama (in yellow T-shirt) and the rest of the team bring conviviality to Orangutan. |
KIMBERLY HUGHES
Encountering some initial resistance from his staff, Matsushima took the whole crew to Thailand for a weeklong trip to explore its rich food culture in an effort to align the group with his vision. Matsushima recalls that they 'ate about five meals a day.'
Although Uchiyama's Shimokitazawa restaurant had served food from throughout Thailand, the pair decided to focus their new venture on Thai's northeastern region — particularly its Isan cuisine, known for vibrant dishes incorporating generous amounts of herbs, chilis and fermented fish — along with the milder style of food from Chiang Mai.
Orangutan opened its doors in September 2024, undertaking the swift transformation between the two establishments each day in around two hours. Swapping out Lou's seatback cushions from blue to orange, Matsushima also engaged the artisans in his network to help shape the atmosphere of the new space: Textiles from Chiang Mai resident Azusa Kawaguchi, who also hosted the group's visit in Thailand, drape the walls and the coffee machine, while the wooden tabletop covers and utensil holders were crafted by a friend in Tokushima Prefecture.
Specializing in small plates, Orangutan's menu shows Uchiyama's deft hand at Thai cuisine. Sourcing his herbs from the Terra Madre farm in Mobara, Chiba Prefecture (and from an Asian market in Tokyo's Okubo neighborhood during the off-season) and using no MSG, he creates exceptionally fresh dishes such as an Isan-style som tam (papaya salad) with a fermented fish sauce — its balanced spicy, salty and tangy flavors perfectly complement the fragrant basket of sticky red rice.
The "som tam" (papaya salad) offers a delicious interplay of spicy, salty and tangy flavors. |
KIMBERLY HUGHES
Naem kluk, a homemade fermented pork sausage, comes accented with crispy rice, red curry, toasted peanuts and cilantro. I pair this with the humorously named Fruit Loops, a natural red wine from Austrian vintner Claus Preisinger that was selected by the in-house wine specialist. Featuring a blend of cabernet franc, blaufrankisch and syrah grapes, it is crisply refreshing, with hints of spice and the slightest finish of wild gaminess — perfect for both the food and the early summer weather.
Soop naw mai (a tender bamboo shoot salad) features slivers of red onion and mint sprigs, while tom saap nua (spicy and sour beef soup) is a rich broth with tender chunks of meat and mushrooms complemented by an aromatic combination of lemongrass, ginger, basil, kafir lime, cilantro and red chili.
A dollop of Okinawan mango and sticky rice ice cream, served creatively atop a spoon for dessert, helps cool down the fieriness of the meal. Lingering over drinks — my companions opt for the limey City Jazz Gose craft beer from Hobo Brewing and refreshing Thai mojitos — I soak in the evening atmosphere, which is enhanced by the music playlist that encompasses Spotify and Matsushima's extensive vinyl record collection, covering everything from cumbia to Thai funk and avant-garde jazz to ska.
While Uchiyama does not go out of his way to cater to diners who may not be able to handle the fiery flavors, he is more than willing to tone down the spice upon request.
Orangutan also offers seating on its tiny front terrace for those balmy evenings when you want to enjoy the outdoor ambience. So whether you're interested in the sumptuous Thai food or just the drinks and the vibe, this eatery deserves a spot on your dining list.
Nakano 5-53-4, Nakano Ward, Tokyo; 03-3387-0888; ; open 6 p.m-11 p.m.; closed Tues. and Wed
