Latest news with #Deciem
The Star
28-05-2025
- Health
- The Star
Sunscreen is a skincare staple – so how do you choose the right kind?
Keeping yourself shielded from the sun's harmful rays is absolutely essential, whether you're indoors or outdoors, on vacation at the beach or driving to work. The sun protection sector is growing at a rapid pace with products ranging from sprays, brush-on powders and roller sticks as well as two-in-one products like SPF-infused face moisturisers and tinted sunscreens. According to a global data and business intelligence platform, the sun protection market worldwide generated a revenue of US$12.20bil (RM51.62bil) in 2025. Incorporating SPF application into your daily skincare regimen is a must, and the beauty industry offers a diverse range of SPF options to suit every lifestyle. Despite the emphasis on sun protection in the media and on social networks, many questions on the subject remain, so we checked in with a few brands to get their input. A variety of choices Powder sunscreens are best used for reapplication throughout the day, especially over makeup, advises Liah Yoo, but they shouldn't be relied on as your primary sunscreen. Photo: KraveBeauty From mists and balms to stick applicators and powder-based sunscreens, shoppers are spoilt for choice when it comes to products. But with such a wide selection available, how do we determine which option offers the most effective protection? The answer depends on several factors, including how the product is applied, its specific formulation and which parts of the body you're aiming to shield from the sun. Deciem (parent company of The Ordinary) scientific communications and brand engagement senior manager Rita Silva weighs in on how effective different types of sunscreen are. 'Spray-on sunscreens and powder sunscreens in general should not be used on their own, as it is almost impossible to apply enough product to represent anything near 2mg/cm² (the amount of product used in a clinical study to achieve the SPF value on the packaging),' says Silva. 'Their application is also not as seamless as that of a fluid product. Sticks are a lot more effective in this regard, but the golden standard continues to be a cream or serum format,' she adds. KraveBeauty founder Liah Yoo notes that spray, stick and powder sunscreens can be effective, but only if you apply a generous amount – and most people don't. 'With spray sunscreens, you need to apply liberally and make sure to rub it in for even coverage, which many people skip. Stick sunscreens are great for targeted areas like the eyes or nose, but to get the full SPF protection, you'd have to go over the same area multiple times,' says Yoo. Powder sunscreens are best used for reapplication throughout the day, especially over makeup, she advises, but they shouldn't be relied on as your primary sunscreen. 'Overall, these formats are convenient but easy to underapply, so for daily use, a cream or lotion sunscreen is your best bet to ensure proper protection,' she says. Read more: Ask The Expert: How do you keep your skin looking healthy as you age? Physical versus chemical Rita Silva explains that filters work by absorbing harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun and converting it into harmless forms of energy, mainly heat. Photo: The Ordinary A common assumption when it comes to skincare is that 'natural' equates to 'organic' and this extends to the idea of 'physical' versus 'chemical'. Silva notes that the main difference between physical and chemical is their chemical composition. 'In my opinion, chemical is actually a misnomer, because everything has a chemical structure – even minerals,' she says. 'Chemical, or organic, UV filters are also called 'organic'; because they are made up of carbon-based molecules and all carbon-based molecules are called 'organic' in chemistry.' She says these filters work by absorbing harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun and converting it into harmless forms of energy, mainly heat. 'The molecules in these filters contain electrons that absorb the UV light, which excites them and makes the molecules temporarily unstable. To return to a stable state, the molecules release this energy as heat or sometimes lower-energy light. 'This process repeats, helping to protect the skin from UV damage for as long as the sunscreen remains effective,' she says. Physical (mineral) sunscreens sit on the surface of the skin and deflect the sun's harmful UV rays, and they contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. 'Physical and chemical sunscreens effectively block UVA/UVB rays but in different ways. Think about a chemical sunscreen as a sponge – it absorbs the rays before they hit your face, whereas a physical sunscreen acts like an umbrella or shield – so the rays bounce off,' says Tatcha global director of artistry Daniel Martin. These filters protect the skin by both absorbing and scattering UV radiation, possessing a unique structure called a band gap, which allows them to absorb a broad range of UV light. 'When UV light is absorbed, the energy excites the electrons in these particles, which then release the energy as heat or less harmful forms of light,' says Silva. 'Additionally, the particles scatter some UV rays (5-10%), providing further protection against UVA and UVB radiation,' she adds. Ultimately, suitability will come down to formulation – whether you have oily, dry or combination skin – and what works for you personally. Yoo notes that the main difference lies in how they work and what ingredients they use. 'There's a common myth that chemical sunscreens are more irritating or unsafe, but the truth is, both types are effective and safe when formulated well,' she says. Yoo recommends non-nano zinc-based sunscreens for babies and infants, and for adults, what your skin tolerates. 'The best sunscreen is the one you'll wear consistently,' says Yoo. Moisturiser substitute Daniel Martin recommends using a moisturiser before applying sunscreen. Photo: Tatcha Every busy person has probably wondered which skincare steps are a must and which we can do without, with skinimalism (using fewer products) being a growing trend. One question that often pops up is if sunscreen can be used with a daytime moisturiser or if it can be used in place of one. Silva explains that the SPF value on the packaging is achieved through a test where 2mg of product is applied per 1cm² of skin, and this test is done exactly the same for sunscreens or for moisturising sunscreens. 'This is a lot of product – and a lot more product than what most people would apply when it comes to moisturisers,' she says. 'There is no difference in protection between a sunscreen and a moisturiser with the same SPF, but to ensure you're equally protected when using a moisturising sunscreen, you must apply it with the same generosity as you would any other sun protection product, and reapply throughout the day.' Is a moisturising sunscreen as effective as using two separate products, you might ask. Martin recommends still using a moisturiser prior to sunscreen. 'A sunscreen's purpose is to protect whereas a moisturiser will address hydration and protect the skin barrier. I prefer separating my moisturiser from my sunscreen simply because I like the flexibility of addressing my skin's needs that day,' he says. 'You can absolutely replace your daytime moisturiser with a moisturising sunscreen, especially if you have oily or combination skin,' says Yoo. 'Many modern sunscreens are formulated with hydrating ingredients like glycerin, squalane, or hyaluronic acid, so they can double as both SPF and moisturiser.' According to Yoo, the key is to use enough – you need to apply the correct amount to get the SPF level stated on the label (usually about 1/4 teaspoon for the face). 'As long as your sunscreen is giving your skin the hydration it needs and you're applying it generously, it's just as effective as layering two separate products,' says Yoo, whose morning routine involves applying only serum and SPF. Read more: How beauty brands are transforming the skincare experience with facial cabins For daytime application only There has been some talk on skin damage resulting from blue light from our devices, and whether a small amount of SPF is necessary at night (which, let's admit it, is when many of us doomscroll). 'Absolutely not,' says Silva. 'The amount of blue light we receive from devices is minimal compared to the amount of blue light we receive from the sun itself! 'As for UV, unless you're going on a sunbed at night – which I wholeheartedly do not recommend, as skin cancer is a real danger when using them – you can leave the sunscreen for the next morning,' she adds. Yoo shares this sentiment. 'SPF is not necessary at night. While there's been some conversation around blue light from screens, current research shows that the amount emitted by phones and computers is minimal and not enough to cause significant skin damage,' she says.
Business of Fashion
22-05-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
How Tursian Builds Off Deciem Founder's Legacy
On the surface, there is very little that seems sentimental about Tursian, a new-to-market skincare brand that sells, among other things, a tube of Y-3 Youth Restore Serum Concentrate for the matter-of-fact price of $300. Perhaps that's an advantage in the current beauty market, with customers increasingly choosing value over vibes. The brand launched direct-to-consumer earlier this month with 20 products, each tagged with a letter and number denoting the product's benefit; the $300 serum, Y-3, is the third step in the brand's anti-aging routine, for example. There's also a line for brightening (R for radiance) and another for hydration (P for reasons unclear). Its high-science messaging is dense enough to be impenetrable, hence the easy-to-read numbers and letters. But there are few recognisable ingredients; not even a drop of hyaluronic acid. Its Y-3 serum is made with a cocktail of peptides and a muscle relaxant derived from the paracress herb. Then you dig deeper, and the feeling starts to flow. Tursian's founder, Riyadh Swedaan, was a former employee of the Canadian beauty brand Deciem, and more significantly the long-term partner of its late founder, Brandon Truaxe. Swedaan said that the brand name Tursian is a variation on a name Truaxe had before he moved to Canada from Iran in the mid-1990s. The brand's capital T logo has an intentional slice removed. 'Brandon is the missing piece,' Swedaan told The Business of Beauty. Skin, Deeper Swedaan met Truaxe in 2008 when the former moved to Toronto from Iraq for pharmaceutical school, five years before Truaxe would endeavour to launch 10 beauty brands under a parent company called Deciem. The entrepreneur's legacy in beauty can be felt not only in the continued blockbuster success of brands like The Ordinary but in his commitment to transparency in skincare pricing. According to Swedaan, he and Truaxe had long discussed Deciem's approach to a luxury skincare brand, which would be something technology-minded — similar to Truaxe's pet project Niod under the Deciem umbrella — but glossy, almost futuristic. Swedaan managed one of Deciem's Toronto factories, but left the brand in 2020. Tursian was conceived by Riyadh Swedaan and his partner, the late Brandon Truaxe, as a luxury skincare brand with supercharged formulas. (Tursian) After three years of toiling on the formulas and details, he is ready to bring Tursian to life in his partner's memory, investing handsomely in rare ingredients like antioxidant-rich Thai mushrooms or 'velvet seaweed,' building labs in New Jersey and Dubai and stocking them with the latest and greatest manufacturing technology imported from Korea, Italy and the UK. 'We don't include hyaluronic acid, or transamic acids, or alpha hydroxy acids or beta hydroxy acids,' Swedaan said. Labour of Love Even understanding the notoriously high-margin business of skincare, where companies are likely to spend more shipping a moisturiser than what goes into it, Tursian's products are apparently, undeniably, expensively made. Swedaan went on a world tour of ingredient suppliers, maxing out his passport twice; he boasts sourcing from Mexico, Iran, Morocco, Tunisia, Switzerland, the UK and Vietnam. 'Every ingredient in the world,' he said, 'We have it in our formulas.' Some of the products in the line were almost too efficacious; Swedaan had to temper down three serums after their active concentration accidentally qualified them as pharmaceutical-grade. Though Truaxe is often credited with giving ingredients prime billing in every aspect of beauty products, from social media to packaging, Tursian still faces stiff competition in prestige skincare. Swedaan hopes to elevate the brand beyond the competition by forgoing commonly used skincare ingredients as a point of pride. Founder Riyadh Swedaan intentionally avoided commonly used skincare additives like hyaluronic acid in favor of more esoteric ingredients. (Tursian) But a more significant investment may be Tursian's 12,000-square-foot facility just outside Manhattan in New Brunswick, New Jersey, replete with state-of-the-art manufacturing equipment, such as a machine designated just to print the labels on the brand's square moisturiser jars. Manufacturing, formulations and design all occur in-house, with a main headquarters in Dubai, where most of the brand's 35 employees work. Tursian declined to comment on how much it has spent developing the brand. Swedaan said he has taken no outside investment, and is the sole owner of the company. He was one of the beneficaries of Truaxe's will alongside senior staff like former chief executive Nicola Kilner. (Truaxe's will was written months after the Estée Lauder Companies purchased a $50 million minority stake in Deciem in 2019). The value of his assets in personal property and real estate were estimated at north of $4 million in a letter appointing his estate's trustee. 'To build the brand, you have to make sure everything is under your hand,' Swedaan said. He has help in the form of Dia Foley, Tursian's vice-president of brand and retail and another friend and collaborator of Truaxe's, who worked on his pre-Deciem business Indeed Laboratories — and happened to live in his building. 'He would come down at three o'clock in the morning banging on my door with an idea,' she said fondly. Foley described Tursian's target customer as someone looking for 'solid, clinical results' who is not experimental in their skincare dealings. At the same time, Swedaan has the air of a mad scientist, his speech cycling through cosmeceutical topics at centrifugal speed. While his opinions on hyaluronic acid may be his own, others, like the focus on direct and transparent communication with the buying public, seem to be channeled from Truaxe. 'No school in the world could give you the experience he gave me,' Swedaan said. 'Now I can translate that experience into a product.' Sign up to The Business of Beauty newsletter, your complimentary, must-read source for the day's most important beauty and wellness news and analysis.
