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NBC News
5 days ago
- Health
- NBC News
I tried 20+ foundations over two months — these are the best ones for my rosacea-prone skin
I first discovered I had rosacea almost a decade ago, and since then, finding a foundation to cover up my redness and bumps has been tricky. Every option flaked off on my flushed skin, and the redness would creep through no matter how much product I caked on. My skin is also acne-prone and dry, which makes trying out new foundations feel impossible. After years with no luck, I made it a personal goal to find a foundation that not only covered up my redness, but also created an even, smooth base. Over the last few months, I've tried more than a dozen foundations and skin tints, plus I spoke with board-certified dermatologists about what to look for in a rosacea-friendly foundation and how to apply it. Below, I highlight my findings and the best foundations I tested. How I picked the best foundations for rosacea-prone skin When shopping for a foundation, the dermatologists I spoke to recommend keeping the following in mind: Soothing ingredients: Look for foundations with niacinamide and aloe vera, which help soothe redness and irritation, says board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon Dr. Nathan Newman. Also, consider foundations with mineral SPF ingredients, like zinc oxide, to protect your sensitive skin from harmful UV rays, says Newman. (Chemical sunscreen filters like avobenzone or octinoxate are fine, but keep in mind they're more likely to irritate sensitive, rosacea-prone skin, experts say). Avoid common irritants like fragrance and alcohol. Noncomedogenic formulas: This means the foundation is less likely to clog pores and cause breakouts. The label also means it's less likely to cause unwanted irritation, says Dr. Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology Physicians of Connecticut. Coverage: Stick with lightweight, breathable foundations, like mineral powders or serum-like consistencies with a short ingredient list, says Gohara. 'Heavy, occlusive liquid foundations can trap heat and bacteria, which may worsen flushing or breakouts,' she says. How I tested foundations for rosacea-prone skin I tested foundations on my dry, rosacea-prone skin for two months. Here's what I kept in mind: Coverage: My main consideration when testing foundations was whether it adequately covered up my redness and texture. For context, I typically go for lighter coverage during the day (usually a skin tint with SPF or a single layer of a breathable foundation), and a medium to full coverage foundation at night to cover any redness, spots or texture. I weighed the degree of coverage against the look and feel of the foundation. For example, did the foundation cover up my red spots yet looked cakey or clung to dry patches? Did some redness peak through, but was ultimately toned down? Consistency: The dermatologists I spoke with recommend foundations with a lighter, serum-like consistency. With that in mind, I considered the weight, texture and consistency of a foundation (and whether that affected coverage). All of the following foundations are lightweight and breathable, and most have a serum-like or liquid texture based on my experts' guidance. Comfort and overall feel: I considered how the formula felt on my skin and whether it was lightweight, hydrating and suitable for all-day wear. The feel of a foundation is typically called its 'finish,' which includes matte (shine-free and best for oily or combination skin types), dewy (provides a more hydrated look and best for dry skin) and natural (neither shiny or matte, and gives a more 'skin-like' look). Longevity: Ideally, a good foundation should last for eight to 12 hours before it starts flaking off or looking cakey, experts say. I looked at how long the foundation lasted on my skin, and whether it looked as good upon initial application for several hours. I tested all of these foundations both day and night (in the morning before work and at night before going out) to see how well they lasted during different times of day. Packaging: I kept in mind whether the foundation was easy to get out of the packaging, if it was comfortable to store and whether it affected how I applied it. Best foundations for rosacea I rounded up the best foundations for rosacea-prone skin, all of which were tested and reviewed by me and other rosacea-prone NBC Select editors. Best overall Of the 20+ foundations I tested, this Lancome option was the best, in my experience. It's full coverage, which means it covers up any hint of redness, but it doesn't feel cakey or heavy on my skin. Though it has a matte finish, which I usually avoid as someone with dry skin, it doesn't cause any dryness on usually flaky spots like my cheeks and sides of my nose. With the right skin prep (which, for me, usually involves a sensitive skin-friendly moisturizer and hydrating primer), the foundation creates a near-flawless base. I wore this outside in 93 degree Florida weather for around eight hours, and my skin still looked smooth and even despite hours of sweating. This one helped me avoid all of the caveats of full coverage foundations, including dry patches and red splotches that peek through. It also has all the dermatologist-recommended features: it's free of fragrance and oil and it's noncomedogenic. When it comes to budget-friendly and effective foundations, this one from L'Oreal Paris fits the bill. It's one of the most shade-diverse drugstore options, and it's extremely buildable — when I apply the first layer, the foundation already evens out most of my redness, and I can apply one to two more layers for fuller coverage while maintaining a natural, matte finish. I also like how easily the lightweight liquid blends into my skin, whether I'm using a makeup sponge or a brush. And despite it drying down matte, I didn't notice major patchiness or it clinging to my dry spots, which is an issue I have with most matte foundations. This foundation is a favorite of NBC Select reporter Zoe Malin, who wore it during an on-air appearance. 'I only needed one layer to even out my skin tone and mattify my face, which is very important when I'm doing broadcast segments. The lights can easily make me look shiny, but when I wear this foundation on air, my skin looks smooth and matte,' says Malin. 'I barely feel it on my face, which, as someone who doesn't love wearing makeup, is a huge plus.' I wore this foundation for over 10 hours, and it stayed intact the entire time. I did see a few flaky spots around my nose and cheeks on that 10-hour mark, likely due to heat and sweat, but the majority of the base was surprisingly even. I've been using this foundation to cover up my redness for well over a year, and it's one of my favorites for a night out when I need something long wearing. It has a very natural finish, so I don't feel like I have a mask on when I wear it (which is a huge problem for me regarding foundations in general). After a few hours, there was some slight separation around my cheeks, nose and chin, but my skin still looked even and smooth by the end of the night. It did take a few tries to get my correct shade (and it's still slightly too yellow since I'm between rosy and neutral undertones), but with over 50 shades to try, there's likely one for most people. The only downside is the packaging; in my experience, the watery product leaked around the pump a few times. A full coverage foundation has its place, but I typically reach for a lighter coverage foundation for everyday. The tagline for this Jones Road foundation is 'Your Skin On Its Best Day,' and that couldn't be more true — it's the perfect balance between a good amount of coverage for redness and a lightweight feel, in my experience. The lightweight, creamy, balm-like texture feels amazing and it blends easily into my skin after rubbing it in for a few seconds. Though the coverage is very light, it's quite buildable, and I only need one or two applications to cover up redness and spots. It's also light enough to blend in with my fingers (which comes in handy when I'm in a hurry), but I can also use a sponge or brush for more precise areas of my face. Plus it's super hydrating, so it feels like I'm putting on a tinted moisturizer rather than a foundation, which my dry skin loves. The foundation smells amazing, but I found the floral scent pretty strong, so stay away if you're really sensitive to fragrance. It also has a very minimal shade range — some NBC Select staffers who have very fair skin and have tried this foundation say the lightest shade was too dark. I first used this foundation when I was a freshman in high school — it was two shades too dark and looked like a cakey mask rather than an actual skin-enhancing foundation. I gave it another try during this testing period since it's highly rated and comes recommended by Gohara, and I feel like I missed out on a gem for decades. The foundation is a very thick cream, but it creates one of the smoothest bases I've managed to get with makeup. The coverage is amazing, in my experience, and it's extremely buildable, so it comes in handy even on days when my rosacea is at its worst. It has a very natural and dewy finish without looking oily, which is great during the day when I don't want a matte finish. Plus, it has SPF 50 protection, the highest on this list. Tower 28's tinted SPF is beloved by many NBC Select staffers and it's one I reach for almost every day. It helps tame and cover up my redness without feeling heavy or cakey, and it provides SPF 30 protection, so I don't have to worry about my rosacea getting worse due to sun exposure (heat and sun are my biggest triggers). The best part is it's made specifically with sensitive skin in mind and has both the National Eczema Association and the National Rosacea Society's seals of acceptance. 'This is the first tinted sunscreen I really fell in love with, and it's still one I keep at home for everyday use,' says Malin. 'It instantly tones down redness, which I'm prone to since I'm on prescription acne medication, and it blurs acne and dark spots, too.' This foundation comes recommended by Gohara because it has buildable coverage and is free of common rosacea triggers, like fragrance and mineral oil. It also has titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which are gentle and anti-inflammatory SPF ingredients. (However, keep in mind it only has an SPF 15 rating, so apply another sunscreen beforehand since dermatologists generally recommend using SPF 30 or higher.) Upon initial application, the foundation is fairly sheer, but I could easily layer it to medium coverage without it getting cakey on my dry skin. It's a very versatile foundation since you can choose whether you want a very light, everyday look or a more full coverage result, plus you can wear it on top of your everyday foundation or skin tint for some extra coverage. I'm not usually a fan of powder formulas since they get messy and I prefer to apply my foundation with a makeup sponge rather than a brush, but this one was much easier to use than others I've tried in the past. Since a little goes a long way, I didn't have to worry about it not blending properly on my skin — it was quick to blend, felt light on my skin and adequately covered up all my redness after a few applications. There are few things I would splurge on in the makeup world (most drugstore options are equally as good, if not better), and foundation is one of them. Maybe it's because my skin is reactive and complicated, but I find good quality foundations with a higher price tag worth the splurge for my skin type and preferences. This one from Armani Beauty, which comes in at a whopping $69 a piece, is simply one of the very best I've tried. The texture and consistency of this oil-free foundation is very light, and that's exactly how it feels on my skin — whenever I wear this, it feels like I'm barely wearing anything at all, which is usually the vibe I get from a skin tint rather than a medium coverage foundation. Though it's not a full coverage product, it still covers up my red splotches entirely. Plus, it's buildable, so I can choose when I want a lighter coverage day (usually when my rosacea flare-ups are at their tamest) or a more flawless makeup look. I'm a big fan of the packaging, too: It's beautiful, so it looks lovely on my bathroom counter, and the pump prevents a mess. This skin tint, which has very sheer coverage for everyday wear, is a favorite of NBC Select editorial projects manager Rebecca Rodriguez, who has mild rosacea and wears this to achieve a 'no-makeup makeup' look. 'This tint is great for my sensitive rosacea-prone skin because it is so lightweight and hydrating,' she says. 'Although it only offers light coverage, I find it gives my skin a more even, natural finish.' It also has hyaluronic acid, squalane and glycerin to hydrate your skin, and tiger grass to soothe redness. Should you wear foundation if you have rosacea? Yes, it's generally okay to wear foundation if you have rosacea, as long as you're using the right formula. (I go more in depth about what to look for in a rosacea-friendly foundation below.) 'Foundation can actually help calm the emotional toll of visible redness, but it shouldn't come at the cost of more flare-ups,' says Gohara. 'The key is to treat your foundation like skin care — gentle, non-irritating and supportive of your [skin] barrier.' What to look for in a foundation for rosacea Finding the right foundation for rosacea-prone skin may require you to research and study the ingredients list more than you normally would. Remember, skin health comes first: If your skin is flaring up, it's better to skip foundation for a day or two and focus on healing with a calming skin care routine, says Newman. When shopping for a foundation, the dermatologists and skin experts I spoke to recommend keeping in mind foundation type, soothing ingredients and more. Foundation type and coverage Generally, you'll want to look for a lightweight foundation and avoid heavy, occlusive liquids that can trap heat and bacteria (which makes redness worse). Look for a mineral foundation (either powder or liquid), which has zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to provide sun protection and naturally calm inflammation, says Newman. If full coverage isn't as important as simply evening out your skin tone and making redness less noticeable, consider a tinted moisturizer or BB cream with soothing ingredients like niacinamide. 'These are less likely to irritate sensitive skin and have a more natural, skin-friendly finish,' says Newman. Ingredients and labels Look for the foundations labeled noncomedogenic, fragrance-free and, if possible, hypoallergenic (meaning it's formulated specifically for sensitive skin), says Gohara. Bonus points if it has soothing ingredients like niacinamide or mineral-based SPF, including zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. 'You want coverage that comforts, not a cover-up that clogs,' says Gohara. Avoid pore-clogging ingredients, including silicones, waxes and oils like coconut oil, isopropyl myristate or lanolin, because getting acne on top of rosacea can lead to extreme inflammation and scarring, says clinical esthetician and acne specialist Danielle Gronich. SPF protection Look for foundations with SPF 30 or higher to protect your skin from sun exposure, which is a common rosacea trigger, says Newman. Ideally, consider a foundation with mineral-based active ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide because they're less likely to cause irritation on sensitive skin, experts say. If your foundation doesn't have SPF, always apply one beforehand if you're in the sun. 'Sunscreens with a high concentration of zinc [oxide] are ideal because it's a calming ingredient, and those dealing with rosacea are suffering from inflammation,' says Gronich. Chemical sunscreen ingredients, like avobenzone and octinoxate, can often cause more irritation, which is why I always recommend a mineral-based (preferably zinc) sunscreen.' Can foundation make rosacea worse? Yes, some foundations can worsen rosacea. 'Using the wrong formula can be like throwing gasoline on a campfire,' says Gohara. Avoid common irritants like fragrance and drying alcohols like SD alcohol or denatured alcohol, which can aggravate the skin and intensify redness. Also, don't reach for anything with a long list of silicones, waxes or pore-clogging oils like isopropyl myristate or lanolin, and avoid essential oils such as peppermint, citrus or tea tree — all common triggers for burning and redness, says Gohara. What's the best way to prep rosacea-prone skin for foundation? Here's a step-by-step guide to prepping your skin before foundation, according to the experts I spoke to. Cleanse your skin with a gentle, non-stripping cleanser. Avoid foaming cleansers because harsh foaming agents will usually remove most of the oil on your face, which can lead to even more dryness, flaking and irritation, experts say. Opt for a gel or cream cleanser instead. Follow your cleanser with a hydrating water mist, which helps calm your skin and cool inflammation, says Gohara. Apply a soothing serum to help reduce breakouts and redness, and hydrate your skin, says Newman. Moisturize with a lightweight moisturizer to help lock in moisture and give foundation a smooth, even canvas to work with, says Gohara. Apply a mineral-based sunscreen with SPF 30+ to protect your skin from sun-induced flare-ups, says Newman. Apply a hydrating and/or green-tinted primer to help neutralize red and pink hues. 'Think color correction without the cakiness,' says Gohara. However, primer is optional — if you already have a solid, hydrating skin care routine, it might be best to skip adding a new product to the mix. How to apply foundation on rosacea-prone skin Below, Newman shares their tips and recommendations for applying foundation on rosacea-prone skin: Keep your skin well hydrated using a gentle moisturizer, especially since rosacea-prone skin is usually dry and sensitive. Keep your makeup routine simple and avoid layering too many products to prevent irritation. Apply a green-tinted primer before you apply your foundation to help neutralize redness and create a smoother canvas, says Newman. Use a clean makeup brush or sponge to apply makeup, and be gentle when applying products to avoid further irritation. 'A soft brush or damp sponge is better than fingers to minimize friction,' says Newman. Dab, don't rub. Gently press or stipple the foundation onto the skin rather than rubbing it in. Build coverage slowly. Apply thin layers and build up coverage only where you need it to avoid cakeyness. Use a gentle cleanser to remove makeup that doesn't involve rubbing or irritating your skin, says Newman. Meet our experts At NBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also take steps to ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest. Dr. Mona Gohara is a board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology Physicians of Connecticut. Dr. Nathan Newman is a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon. He is the founder and medical director of Orchid Surgery Center in Beverly Hills, California. Danielle Gronich Why trust NBC Select? I'm an updates editor at NBC Select who has covered beauty and personal care for over five years. For this article, I spoke to two board-certified dermatologists and a clinical esthetician about what to look for in foundations for rosacea-prone skin. I also tested over 20 foundations on my own rosacea-prone skin for two months to find the best ones to recommend.
NBC News
13-05-2025
- Health
- NBC News
Trend alert: Why everyone's talking about exosomes in skin care
If you're on the beauty side of social media, there's a strong chance you've heard of exosomes. Though they're already a popular medical-grade treatment in Korea, exosomes are now quickly flooding the at-home skin care space in the United States. It's the latest trend on what seems like every skin care brand's radar, and because of its promise of youthful, glowing skin, reduced inflammation and better overall skin health, you may even be able to replace your current retinols and hyaluronic acid serums with it. 'Exosomes are skin care gold for brands looking to market innovation,' says Dr. Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology Physicians of Connecticut. Though they're buzzy, it's worth noting that no exosome product is currently approved for cosmetic use by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 'The potential is real, but regulation hasn't caught up,' says Gohara. But are exosomes really a 'cure-all'? I spoke to board-certified dermatologists to find out exactly what they can do for your skin and whether they're actually effective. Want more from NBC Select? Sign up for our newsletter, The Selection, and shop smarter. What are exosomes? Exosomes are tiny, naturally-occurring vesicles released by nearly all types of cells — including skin cells, stem cells and platelets — that carry and protect proteins, lipids and genetic material. Think of exosomes as microscopic delivery trucks: Each one carries a 'package' of proteins, lipids, growth factors and microRNA that help regulate how nearby cells behave. As it pertains to skin care, exosomes facilitate cell to cell communication and give a pathway for skin cells to 'talk' to each other, according to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman. This results in them acting as messengers that deliver instructions to other cells to help calm inflammation, repair damaged tissue and increase collagen and elastin production (which usually deplete as we age, leading to sagging, wrinkly skin), says Gohara. 'Think of them as a high-tech signaling system that coordinates skin regeneration,' she says. Meanwhile, the genetic material that the exosomes carry in their 'delivery trucks,' like mRNA, influences gene expression, which essentially reprograms skin cells to behave more like younger, healthier cells, says Dr. Asmi Berry, board-certified dermatologist and beauty biohacker in Los Angeles. You'll typically find exosomes in serums because they penetrate deeper into the skin and are more stable in low-water, minimal-ingredient formulas, says Berry. While you can find them in moisturizers and creams, too, these formulations may weaken their effects, she says. Are exosomes safe and FDA approved? Exosome research is still in its early stages, and the FDA has not yet approved any exosome products. (FDA approval means the agency has determined through clinical trials that the product is safe and effective for its intended use). However, cosmetic products and ingredients (other than color additives) don't need FDA approval before they go on the market, so you can find skin care serums and moisturizers with exosomes in them. Despite this, there are still laws and regulations brands must follow. 'Because cosmetic treatments do not require FDA approval to go to the market, there is no requirement for the topical product to be proven as an effective treatment,' says Green. In fact, the FDA issued a warning in 2020 against regenerative medicine products, specifically products containing stem cells and exosomes, because people are commonly misled about their efficacy. Since skin care doesn't require FDA approval, any brand can sell products with exosomes in them; To ensure any topical you're applying or buying is actually safe, always use a reputable brand that's clear about its ingredients and where it sources them, says Green. Below, I rounded up skin care products with exosomes that are dermatologist-recommended or from brands we've previously covered. Plated's serum, which comes recommended by Korman, is made from human-derived exosomes, so it's more effective than those derived from plants or animals. It's gentle enough for all skin tones, and made specifically for those looking to target redness, inflammation and fine lines, according to the brand. Plated uses a safe and ethical process for extracting human platelets, which involves working with compliant blood banks in the U.S., according to the brand. In addition to platelet-derived exosomes, the serum has hyaluronic acid and antioxidants to help address dark spots, redness and fine lines and wrinkles, according to the brand. You can use the serum once a day (either at night or in the morning) after cleansing your skin and before the rest of your skin care routine. Make sure you give the product a few minutes to fully absorb before applying your other products. This Skinfix baume, which has a thicker texture than a serum, is a favorite of both Gohara and Hartman because it's fragrance-free and great for sensitive skin. 'It combines exosomes with ectoin, a powerful stress-protection molecule, to deeply hydrate, soothe and visibly strengthen the skin barrier, especially for sensitive or compromised skin,' says Gohara. It leverages exosomes not just for reducing fine lines and wrinkles, but for skin resilience, too, according to Gohara. Apply one to two pumps on your face, neck and chest at night after cleansing and before moisturizing. You can also use it as an overnight treatment mask in place of your nightly moisturizer, according to Skinfix. If you're looking for a budget-friendly option, this serum has plant-derived exosomes that help to boost collagen production. I've used a pea-sized amount of this serum every night for the past two weeks after the brand sent me a bottle to try out, and it's had a noticeable impact on how glowy and hydrated my skin looks first thing in the morning. I combine it with a hyaluronic acid serum and a gentle retinol, which has been a great, sensitive skin-friendly combination as someone with rosacea -prone skin. You can use it morning and night — apply it on clean skin and can follow it with any preferred treatments (like retinol), moisturizer and SPF, according to the brand. This serum from Korean beauty brand Medicube is an OTC and non-invasive alternative to microneedling, according to the brand; it's a spicule serum, which means the formula has microscopic, needle-like structures that are coated in exosomes. You can't see the tiny liquid microneedles, but you'll probably feel some sharpness and tingling when you apply it, according to the brand. It penetrates your pores more deeply than a typical topical formula and has chemical exfoliants like AHAs, niacinamide and amino acids to help improve skin texture, according to Medicube. Use this at night after cleansing and follow it with a moisturizer. It's also highly rated, with a 4.4-star average rating from 2,509 reviews on Amazon. Dr. Barbara Sturm Exoso-Metic Face Serum Though the price tag is the highest on this list, this serum is an excellent option for those with mature skin who are looking to get rid of fine lines and wrinkles. It has lab-derived exosomes and growth factors paired with vitamin E to plump, firm and protect skin from free radical damage, according to the brand. You can apply it to your face, neck and chest morning and night, but let it dry for a few minutes first before following it up with a moisturizer. It has a 5-star average rating from 48 reviews at Dr. Barbara Sturm. How do exosomes in skin care work? There are two main types of exosomes skin care: in-office treatments and at-home topicals. Topical exosome formulas work well, but they don't always penetrate the skin enough to provide the best regenerative benefits (like stimulating collagen production), says Hartment. That's why many dermatologists prefer to use exosomes alongside in-office treatments like microneedling, which involves a small needled device that makes microchannels in the skin to help push serums (like exosomes, for example) deeper in, says board-certified NYC cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Michele Green. 'When delivered through open microchannels, their effects, especially on collagen production, are likely more pronounced,' says Gohara. 'Medical-grade exosomes are used to supercharge healing, reduce post-procedure inflammation and stimulate collagen formation.' But again, while microneedling with exosome serums isn't necessarily unsafe, exosome treatments are not yet FDA approved for skin care use. Most over-the-counter topical exosome serums use lab-made or plant-derived exosomes, which are safe and hydrating, but they don't have the same regenerative benefits you would get from human-derived exosomes (which are typically used in doctors' offices), says Berry. Keep in mind serums with human-derived exosomes are very expensive, usually costing above $100. What is exosome therapy? Exosome therapy (usually known as exosome stem cell therapy) is an in-office treatment that involves applying exosome serums derived from human stem cells or platelets during or after skin treatments like microneedling, laser resurfacing or radiofrequency, says Gohara. For aesthetic purposes, dermatologists will often turn to dermal fibroblast exosomes, which signal the fibroblasts to produce more collagen and elastin, says Green. Exosomes work well when they're injected into the skin, but there are safety concerns with the practice, including scarring, irritation or infections (in addition to not enough evidence of efficacy), according to Hartman and Dr. Joshua Korman, board-certified plastic surgeon and founder of Korman Plastic Surgery. Dermatologists I spoke with recommend sticking to over-the-counter serums by reputable brands for at-home use, and microneedling performed by a licensed dermatologist or skin care professional. Are exosomes effective? It's no surprise brands are continuously looking for new, buzzy ingredients to incorporate into products, and exosomes manage to tap into the balance of regenerative science and natural healing. Though exosomes are promising, are they going to revolutionize topical skin care? Hartman doesn't think so. 'There isn't enough research to show that exosomes perform at the same level, or better, than highly-researched and proven regenerative skin care ingredients like retinol, peptides, ceramides and niacinamide,' he says. 'I see the most potential in medical-grade exosome skin care, especially products that use purified, lab-cultured exosomes post-treatment to support healing, collagen production and skin rejuvenation,' says Berry. 'Many mass-market products just borrow the word 'exosome.' Unless the exosomes are biologically active and clinically sourced, they're unlikely to deliver true regenerative results.' That means don't expect dramatic results from plant-derived exosomes, though they can offer gentle skin repair and hydration, says Berry. As mentioned, cosmetic topicals don't need to undergo the strict testing associated with receiving FDA approval, which makes their effectiveness unclear, says Green. Also, exosomes need specific conditions to remain stable and active, so quality control is everything — whether exosomes remain stable in topical, over-the-counter formulas is still unknown (and fairly unlikely), experts say. However, that doesn't completely diminish their effectiveness. The final verdict? Exosomes have several topical benefits, but research is still in its early stages. 'They're not miracle workers on their own, but when used correctly, especially after procedures or combined with proven actives, they can be a powerful way to enhance your skin's recovery and glow,' says Berry. How do exosomes compare to other regenerative skin care ingredients? Regenerative skin care refers to ingredients and formulas that focus on healing and rejuvenating the skin by improving elasticity, reducing fine lines and wrinkles and boosting collagen, says Korman. Exosomes are usually compared to peptides and growth factors, two ingredients that have been the stars of regenerative skin care for years. The main difference is that exosomes have a broader spectrum of benefits. 'It's like a flip phone versus a smartphone: They don't just stimulate one type of cellular activity — they're like a full care package that tells skin cells to multiply, produce collagen, reduce inflammation and even protect against oxidative stress,' says Gohara. 'They're essentially smarter and more comprehensive, but still relatively new to the commercial skin care scene.' But comparisons can't be made quite yet; researchers need to study exosomes more before determining if they're 'better' or more effective than other regenerative ingredients, says Green. Frequently asked questions How often should you apply skin care with exosomes? You can apply most exosome-containing products daily. When you apply them regularly, they can help improve hydration, barrier strength and long-term skin resilience, says Gohara. How long does it take to see results from exosomes? You'll typically see reduced redness or an increased glow within a week of using exosome-containing products regularly. However, deeper changes like improved skin texture and firmness or fewer fine lines, usually take four to eight weeks, says Gohara. 'Exosomes encourage cell regeneration as well as collagen production, and both processes take time to have a visible impact on the skin,' says Green. Can you combine exosomes with other active ingredients? You can combine exosomes with actives like retinol, peptides and vitamin C, but they aren't a replacement for gold-standard ingredients like retinoids, says Berry. That's because these ingredients work differently. 'Retinol speeds up cell turnover, peptides act as messengers to stimulate collagen and exosomes create a more supportive environment for the skin to repair itself,' says Berry. In fact, exosomes can actually make the skin more resilient and better able to tolerate active treatments. 'I wouldn't recommend replacing products with antioxidants, retinol or sunscreen (which is what I call the Holy Trinity of skin care) with exosome products,' says Hartman. Who should use exosomes? Almost anyone can use serums with exosomes in their skin care routine. The people that'll benefit most are those with mature skin since the body's ability to naturally reduce inflammation and produce collagen and elastin slows as we age, says Hartman. However, steer clear if you're pregnant or breastfeeding. 'We don't have enough safety data yet, so I recommend against using exosomes during pregnancy or breastfeeding, just like we do with retinoids,' says Berry. 'It's better to stick to proven, gentle options during this time.' Meet our experts At NBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also take steps to ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest. Dr. Mona Gohara is a board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology Physicians of Connecticut. Dr. Corey L. Hartman is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. Dr. Asmi Berry is a board-certified dermatologist and beauty biohacker at BHSkin Dermatology in Los Angeles. Dr. Michele Green is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist based in New York City. Dr. Joshua Korman is a board-certified plastic surgeon and founder of Korman Plastic Surgery based in Northern California. Why trust NBC Select? I'm an updates editor at NBC Select who has covered beauty and personal care for over five years. For this article, I spoke to five board-certified dermatologists about exosomes in skin care products and what they can do for your skin. I also rounded up their recommendations for serums with exosomes to shop, as well as NBC Select editor-favorite products.
