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Italian leather consortium Cuoio di Toscana celebrates 40 years and expands its European market share
Cuoio di Toscana, Italy's leading outsole leather consortium, will mark its 40th anniversary in 2025 with a special event in the gardens of the Four Seasons Hotel in Florence. The celebration includes a scientific presentation by Professor Gustavo Adrian Defeo of CTC Ars Tictoria, unveiling new research on the sustainability, traceability and environmental impact of the consortium's leather.
To celebrate the anniversary, Cuoio di Toscana teamed up with acclaimed Italian designer Diego Dolcini on a limited-edition shoe collection inspired by the traditional Opanka sole. Originally rooted in Balkan heritage, the design has been reimagined through Italian craftsmanship, using a rare construction method that bonds the leather upper and sole without glue. 'This project speaks directly to our core values—sustainability and circularity,' said Antonio Quirici, president of Cuoio di Toscana, in a statement to
Salvatore Ferragamo first adapted the Opanka silhouette in 1958, transforming the traditional style—worn with crisscrossed laces wrapped around the leg—into a fashion-forward model. In 1995, Diego Dolcini updated the design with a bold high stiletto heel. For this new collaboration, he reimagines the Opanka as a men's loafer, crafted in a palette of earthy, natural tones.
Each pair features a discreet tag embedded between the insole and outsole—a traceable element serving as a 'sustainability passport.' This built-in marker certifies the product's environmental responsibility. 'It's one more way we demonstrate our commitment to our values,' said Quirici. 'Our consortium now leads the global market for outsole leather, holding 95% of the Italian share and 85% across Europe—up from 80%.'
Cuoio di Toscana comprises seven tanneries located in the Pisa province of Tuscany, between Santa Croce sull'Arno and Ponte a Egola in San Miniato. Member companies include Bonistalli e Stefanelli SpA, CMC International SpA, Conceria Gi-Elle-Emme SpA, Cuoificio Otello, Lamonti Cuoio SpA, and Volpi Concerie Srl. The group is renowned for its slow vegetable tanning processes, which use natural tannins extracted from chestnut, mimosa, and quebracho wood.
Despite ongoing global uncertainty, Cuoio di Toscana remains focused on its long-term vision. 'The only real challenge today is geopolitical instability, with yet another conflict unfolding,' Quirici noted. 'It's hit the fashion and luxury sectors hard, driving a widespread slowdown from 2023 to 2024. Our revenue fell from over €170 million to just under €150 million. But we're staying strong, and we continue to invest in creative, sustainable initiatives. I remain confident about the road ahead.'
