6 days ago
Beauty fix: Should I be wearing more SPF and are chemical sunscreens safe to use?
'I'm still shocked by how people are so misinformed about sun protection, or else they don't want to know,' says Eavanna Breen, aesthetician and clinical director of Eavanna Breen Skin & Laser Clinic.
We all know, of course, that we should be wearing sun protection all year round. A remarkable number of us don't however, and particularly not in winter, but when summer rolls around, we try to get sun-smart again.
Breen backs up the message that SPF is not just for summer. Filtering out the sun's UVA rays that cause damage and ageing and UVB rays, the ones that burn, is crucial all year for both health and vanity.
I keep hearing that chemical sunscreens are bad for us, is this true and what are they?
'This is absolutely not true,' says Breen. 'The rigorous testing before a product is deemed safe is incredible. People who think that they're dangerous are just not reading the evidence. But one thing goes viral and then people are scared.'
Chemical sunscreens most often contain ingredients such as avobenzone, octinoxate or oxybenzone, which create a film that absorbs UV rays.
It is her bread and butter to have done the research and, says Breen, there is no concern around the body absorbing chemical sunscreens.
Then what are physical sunscreens?
Physical sunscreens typically contain ingredients such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which do not absorb but sit on top of the skin, reflecting the rays away.
These are the ones that don't sink tracelessly into the skin and sometimes lend a white caste, which often puts people off.
'These days,' says Breen, 'the better products are those that contain a combination of both chemical and physical ingredients. Also, the formulations are getting better all the time and tend to be lighter and don't give that white caste. The combination of both chemical and physical ingredients means you get good coverage and it's nice to use.
I know I have to reapply regularly on holidays, but what about at home?
'On holidays, you absolutely have to reapply every two hours,' says Breen, 'but on a nice day in Ireland, you also need to reapply.'
'SPF breaks down throughout the day,' Breen explains. 'So when you put your SPF50 on at 7am, by 11am that's probably back down to a 30. And by 1pm, when you're going to sit outside with your sandwich it could be down to a 20. So you need to reapply.'
Is the SPF in my moisturiser, primer or make-up sufficient?
'It's not that they offer less protection, it's just that people don't put enough on to get the protection they need. You need two fingers' worth of SPF to get enough cover. But if you put on two fingers of foundation, it looks ridiculous. Nobody puts on that amount, so they're not getting enough SPF from it. The same goes for moisturiser.'
However, Breen agrees, with one finger's worth of moisturiser and then one finger of primer or foundation, all including a good SPF, then you're 'just about' getting enough.
Can I use a hydrating sunscreen instead of my moisturiser?
'All sunscreen sits on the surface layer of the skin and doesn't go too far down in to the skin and there are some that are hydrating, but not as hydrating as a moisturiser, so it doesn't replace one for most people."
If you find SPF plus moisturiser too much, she suggests using an antioxidant serum like vitamin C and then sunscreen on top of that.
But what about getting my vitamin D — doesn't SPF block it out?
'No,' says Breen, who says she was shocked by how many messages she received about this after a recent TV appearance.
'You can still get vitamin D through SPF50. It won't be quite as much as if you had no sun protection on, but if you want to top up your vitamin D, get outdoors before 11am for five to 15 minutes twice a week, and that's enough to get your levels up. But please wear your sunscreen.'
Skinmade Protect and Care Sun Oil SPF50, €47,
An oil product that does not feel oily, this chemical sunscreen goes on after serums, but before creams. High in antioxidants from red algae, it also helps protect against inflammation and ageing free radicals and includes ceramides, to boost the skin barrier and promote smoothness.
NeoStrata Skin Brightener SPF35, €42.95, selected pharmacies nationwide
This is a moisturising and sun-protecting product that is rich in antioxidants and also contains NeoGlucosamine, a non-acid light exfoliant that helps to reduce pigmentation. Take care to use enough product that you're well covered for sun protection.
Rosalique 3 in 1 Anti-Redness Miracle Formula SPF50, €34.95, pharmacies nationwide
For skin prone to redness or any inflammation, this is a hardworking SPF that calms, covers and protects from damaging rays. A physical sunscreen with titanium oxide, it is less likely to irritate sensitive skins. It also has redness-reducing ingredients and a green tint to counter any redness.
