2 days ago
An Eater Editor's Favorite Pupusas Around D.C.
When it comes to street food, the pupusa just might be D.C.'s strongest contribution to the genre (don't tell the half-smoke fans). Due to the city's sizable Salvadoran population, pupusas are one of the most omnipresent snacks around here, whether it be in the city proper (Mt. Pleasant and Columbia Heights are key neighborhoods), or stretching into the suburbs, where great options dot through Wheaton, College Park, and Hyattsville in Maryland. Virginia Falls Church alone offers more than a half dozen options.
Pupusas are generally affordable, at around $2 to $3 each, more often than not made to order, and hearty and satisfying. Even a mediocre pupusa usually provides a pretty satisfying experience, but there is a lot of nuance to what makes a great one. You need the right balance of filling to masa, a bracing curtido (an accompanying pickled vegetable mixture) and a fresh-tasting salsa, and enough cheese to satisyingly ooze without making the overall effect too greasy.
I consumed more than 25 pupusas, focusing on pork and cheese for consistency, to research this edition of Highly Opinionated, and found that these truly stand out among the region's sizable offerings; this map features even more excellent renditions.
3411 14th St NW , Washington, D.C.
Grabbing a pupusa at Columbia Heights favorite Gloria's is part of the 14th Street experience; the tiny, colorful eatery boasts multiple tributes to singer Selena on its walls and always brings out its pupusas blazingly hot. This version epitomizes balance: the well-seasoned filling reaches the entire length of the pupusa; you can taste the masa, but it isn't the dominant flavor. The pupusas are nicely compact and dotted with smoky spots: there's substantial cheese, but it doesn't sop through. Gloria's offers an excellent basic salsa, but its curtido really stands out among the pack; if I were giving a separate designation for best curdido, this piquant, thinly sliced, version would take the title. Also consider: El Riconcito
Speaking of excellent curtido, you can also find a great kicky version at El Tamarindo, a cheeky Adams Morgan pupuseria which sells festive merch with slogans like Keep Calm Eat Pupusas and Pupusas for the People. The People shouldn't be disappointed: El Tamarindo's filling lets both the meat and cheese shine through; this is a slightly thick pupusa that's not too doughy. The overall taste leans sweet; a bright orange salsa offers additional acidity to the mix. El Tamarindo's atmosphere is among the best of the area's pupuserias, with a full bar, a nice patio, and plenty of seating; it also makes a respectable margarita, and sometimes you want something boozy to wash down all those pupusas with. Also consider: Don Juan in Mt. Pleasant
43137 Little River Tpke, Chantilly, VA
Let's be clear; this is definitely a trek, but this Chantilly pupuseria is a special one. I first discovered it after participating in a triathlon in South Riding; while everything probably tastes delicious after you've biked, swam, and ran several miles, years later, these pupusas still stood out in my mind as something special.
Returning to the scene, I found pupusas slightly larger than the average, with a filling that boasted a little personality (I suspect turmeric might be in the mix). Cerrito's also had one of the best salsas, with a moderate heat that keeps you coming back for more. Also consider: Pupuseria La Familiar (308 S Washington St, Falls Church, VA, plus two Maryland locations), where salsa in a baggie is part of the charm.
6824 Riggs Rd, Hyattsville, MD
There's fierce competition in naming Maryland's top pupusa; every one I sampled for this story was solid. But the one that made the most lasting impression came from this Hyattsville eatery. The filling of this blazing hot papusa was satisfying, the exterior nicely grilled, and the bright yellow curtido felt just assertive enough. Also consider: Comedor y Pupuseria San Alejo, just across the street
Who needs hot dogs or nachos when pupusas are in the mix? The fact that you could get pupusas in the ballpark was one of my favorite things about going to cheer on the Nats. Sadly, as of this year, La Casita no longer has a stand at the Navy Yard. It's truly a bummer; pupusas were an actually affordable snack option that was filling enough for a meal, and not something you tend to see at other cities' sports arenas. Fear not, though: you can still find the longtime purveyor's excellent pupusas, with a frico-like crust on the outside and a delicate curtido to match, at several locations in Maryland, as well as Union Market's Latin American food hall La Cochesa in D.C.
3103 Graham Rd, Falls Church, VA
Falls Church, where I live, is pupusa central, and nowhere is that more apparent than the intersection of Route 50 and Graham Road, where you can get a pupusa literally on every corner (though Pupuseria Mana's storefront is in the process of relocating further down Graham; right now, the truck is still parked across the street by the nearby laundromat). Among the options: the aforementioned Mana, Las Americanas, Latino Chicken Place, and Cristis Deli and Bakery.
Most of these pupusas fall into the respectable but not mind-blowing category, but the most satisfying and consistent ones come from Las Americanas, where they feature a robust amount of filling (that could have used a smidge more salt), and a good char on the exterior. Note that they mix their curtido and salsa here. Also consider: Pupuseria Mana See More:
