a day ago
How ‘boring Bordeaux' is having a wine renaissance
Bordeaux is undoubtedly the most famous wine-producing region in the world, but I have to admit: I've had a slightly complicated relationship with their wines, and I wonder if that's the same for you, too?
While it has delivered some of my most memorable drinking experiences, there have been moments over the years when I've found it dated and fusty. It seemed as though it was the preserve of a 'certain sort' of person – and I am definitely not that person.
But that's all changing.
Bordeaux and wine conjure images of being a bastion of tradition, and to an extent it is. Its winemaking history dates back over 2,000 years, but it was the marriage of Henry II to the brilliant Eleanor of Aquitaine that saw the UK develop close links with Bordeaux, as the marriage brought the Duchy of Aquitaine – including the Bordeaux region – under English rule. While territories and lines on the maps moved, the valuable trading remained intact (give or take a few little mishaps).
It's an incredibly difficult region to characterise as it produces both the world's most expensive wines and, at the same time, some of the cheapest wines available. But despite the tradition, I really see Bordeaux as one of the most innovative and proactive wine regions when it comes to responding to the challenges that it faces – namely the evolution of customer preferences, climate change and a push for greater sustainability. It's a region that's adapting – and it needs to.
In 2024, the French government proposed a scheme costing £100m that would potentially remove up to 30,000 hectares of vines to tackle the pressing issue of oversupply in Bordeaux. It mirrors the overall global trend where production outstrips demand – with that figure being as high as 10 per cent, according to figures relating to 2023 released by the International Organisation of Vine and Wine.
But Bordeaux's proactive spirit is likely to be the essence that allows this region to thrive once again. It's a region that is leading the way in viticultural sustainability – over 75 per cent of Bordeaux's vineyards are certified by some form of environmental approach, including organic, biodynamic and High Environmental Value certifications.
The department of Gironde, the area where Bordeaux is located, is the leading area in France for organically cultivated vines. There is a greater drive for biodiversity in the vineyard through increased plantings in hedges and woodlands, too. There's also a dynamic approach to the variety of vines that are allowed to be planted, including those that are likely to be more resistant to the pressures of climate change. And it's not just the viticultural side of wine. The CIVB ( Bordeaux Wine Council) is driving conversations and actions, not just around environmental protection, but also on the human sustainability of wine production.
The regional diversity in the styles available is staggering; the growing trend towards fresher, more approachable wines being a testament to this.
It seems I'm not alone in my opinion on Bordeaux: Richard Bamfield MW, a regional expert on Bordeaux, told me, 'It makes no sense to me that Bordeaux is finding it so hard to sell its wines at present. Most of its production sells for well under £20, the reds have never been better, the dry whites are perfect by-the-glass material, the crémants look great value and, in Clairet, I think they have a rosé/light red that offers an excellent alternative to Provence. What's more, Bordeaux itself has become one of the best cities in Europe to visit. Those not drinking or visiting Bordeaux are missing out!' And that's not even mentioning the outstanding sweet wines, traditional rosés and orange wines too.
And this is exactly what I felt on a visit to a wine fair recently in the charming town of Monsegur, located on the edge of the Bordeaux region. It was brimming with excitement. The joy in tasting a stunning range of wines produced by energetic and engaged producers felt a world away from the hushed clinks of claret in 'society' gentlemen's clubs.
And so, like all good love stories, I think Bordeaux and I are finding our beautiful happily-ever-after – one that evolves over time through the range of styles and the stories that they tell.
So, if you think you're a little like me, I think it's time you gave them a second chance as well. Here's just a tiny selection of Bordeaux, which represents this new and exciting energy:
No Lemon No Melon White Merlot, Chateau Picoron, France, 2023
Available nationwide, including Thorne Wines, £18.95, 13 per cent ABV
Think of Bordeaux and you might think of deep reds – but what about their whites? While the region makes outstanding sauvignon blanc/semillon blends, this is 100 per cent merlot (yes, you read that right).
Made by some merlot-mad Australians who work outside of the appellation c ontrôlée, the grapes were pressed and whisked away from their skins, leaving a beautiful rose-gold tinged white wine. It's a gorgeous glass of soft white peaches, creamy butter, slices of ripe pineapple with a lick of vanilla on top – good acidity keeps this wine fresh and very fun.
Le Benjamin, Chateau Des Annereaux, France, 2021
Available nationwide, including Forest Wines, £15.00, 13 per cent ABV
Made in Lalande-de-Pomerol, a right bank region neighbouring the famed area of Pomerol, this offers great value for money. Benjamin Hessel is a wonderful example of the 'new generation' of Bordeaux; he's deeply passionate both about his role as custodian of the land and the relationships with the people he works with.
It's a medium-bodied merlot with a drop of petit verdot, delivering a palate of deep black cherries, ripe blackcurrants, and a black-pepper crack of spiciness. The tannins give just the right amount of grip to support this fruit-forward drop.
Hégoa Rouge, Domaine Des 4 Vents, France, 2022
Available nationwide, including Les Caves De Pyrene, £20.80, 13 per cent ABV
A great example of some of the natural wines that are emerging in this long-standing 'traditional' region. Domaine Des 4 Vents was established in 2020 and is making wines at the wilder end of the spectrum – they're life-full and energetic.
It's 100 per cent merlot, and is full of hedgerow fruit such as wild blackberries, rosehips and blackcurrants – it finishes with an autumnal earthy note and a fresh herbaceous edge, too. This is an 'open up and drink with friends in one go' kind of wine, as it doesn't have the stability to last beyond the first day.
Bordeaux Rouge, Clos de la Molenie, France, 2021
Available from Jeroboams, £19.95, 12 per cent ABV
A wine I want to drink over and over again. Clos de la Molenie are located in the Entre-deux-mers, the largest wine-producing area in Bordeaux, and is a great example of the evolution in the region.
It's a contrast to the historic wines of Bordeaux, which relied on the passage of time before they were anywhere near approachable. This is fruit-driven merlot at its finest – you'll be greeted with layers of bright red cherries, soft raspberries, late-summer plums and deep-red stained rose petals supported by gentle, supple tannins. It's easy to understand why this producer is gaining such a great reputation for their innovative, small-scale production.
