12-05-2025
Sicily's most seductive city break — in the shadow of a volcano
Life was never going to be straightforward, growing up in the shadow of Mount Etna. But Sicily's second city flourishes all the same. And no wonder, given how fecund the island's east coast can be. Wander either of its two main markets and you'll find stalls groaning with every kind of ingredient, at prices that will make you green with envy. A kilo of ripe red tomatoes for £1. Mackerel as long as your forearm for a fiver. Outlandish artichokes. Oranges that shine like the Mediterranean sun. Add a drop or two of Etna wines into the mix and you'll understand why Catania feels so raw and vital, despite its fraying edges.
Meanwhile, in the middle of it all, a grid of elegant baroque streets
