28-05-2025
- Business
- Sydney Morning Herald
A new wave of eateries is elevating South East Queensland's dining scene
Clarissa Pabst has a similar relationship to local produce in her native Stanthorpe. Situated 218 kilometres southwest of Brisbane near the NSW border, this is the Granite Belt region.
Almost 900 metres above sea level, it's known for the Euro-inflected wines from producers such as Bent Road and Golden Grove. But pre-pandemic, when Pabst moved back to town, there wasn't much of a food scene to go with it. 'There was no one really matching food to the wine,' she says.
Her response in 2019 was to open Essen (2 McGregor Terrace, Stanthorpe), a cosy 20-seat restaurant in an old vine-covered cottage. Not that Pabst pairs wine to her contemporary menu, but a BYO permit encourages diners to explore the surrounding wineries before visiting.
The other appeal of opening in the regions? Cost.