Latest news with #FairTradeUSA
Fashion United
5 days ago
- Business
- Fashion United
Beyond the Label: Paul Rice on Conscious Capitalism, the future of Fair Trade US and why ‘Every Purchase Matters'
At first glance, the phrase "conscious capitalism" may come across as somewhat of an oxymoron. A notion that has been floated in many circles since the early 2010s (coined by the co-founders of the Conscious Capitalism movement, Raj Sisodia and John Mackey, the co-founder of Whole Foods Market), it's a philosophy that encapsulates a different way of thinking about capitalism and business, where ethical practices and benefits for all stakeholders from an integral part. Together with the phrase "fair trade," both have been resurfacing in global headlines more recently - albeit for different reasons. While fair trade today is linked to renewed talk of trade policies in response to the Trump administration's politicization of tariffs, the Fair Trade Certified label has deeper roots. Emerging in the 1990s as somewhat of a niche movement, fair trade is a certification process that assures products such as coffee, cocoa, fish, and even apparel are made in accordance with strict environmental and economic standards, providing fair wages, safe working conditions, and sustainable practices for workers across global supply chains. Part of Fair Trade USA, a non-profit organization, the label has evolved into something much larger and is now part of the broader shift toward conscious capitalism, where profitability and purpose go hand in hand. Conscious Capitalism: A tool or just B.S.? Although both concepts have gained significant traction in recent decades, they still feel somewhat radical in today's polarized climate, which is precisely why they're grabbing global headlines. "Conscious capitalism is either total B.S. or incredibly inspiring - depending on how seriously companies take it," points out Paul Rice. If anyone would know, it's him. Founder of Fair Trade USA, he created the certification label in 1998 after spending 11 years organizing coffee farmers in Nicaragua to export directly to global markets and generate sustainable livelihoods. After overseeing Fair Trade USA for 26 years, he stepped down from his former role as CEO last fall and turned his focus to reflecting on the movement's broader impact. In his new book, 'Every Purchase Matters,' he reflects on the journey from Nicaraguan farms to global boardrooms—and how fair trade has become a key component of conscious capitalism, helping companies integrate ethical sourcing into their core business strategies. In an interview with FashionUnited, Rice shares his candid insights into the state of the fair trade fashion movement in the US, the rise of conscious capitalism, and why he believes every purchase is a vote for the kind of world we want to live in. Paul Rice, founder of the Fair Trade Certified label, the third most recognizable sustainability label in the U.S. (behind organic and non-GMO). Credits: Public Affairs Storytelling Beyond the Label The data is evident when it comes to consumer shopping preferences. According to a recent Givsly x GWI report, 64 percent of Americans are willing to spend more on brands that align with their values, with Gen Z and multicultural consumers leading the way. Which makes sense to Rice, because as consumers become increasingly aware of the impact that their purchase has - not just on the planet but on people too - they're choosing to vote with their wallets. "My daughter, she's 25 and right in the middle of Gen Z, and she, together with her friends, would never buy something on a whim from a fast fashion brand," shares Rice. With many fast fashion brands, from H&M to Zara, offering "sustainable" collections, Rice wonders if consumers are still buying into these claims today. "I think there is a large cohort of younger consumers that are really savvy, with great B.S detectors, and they're looking for authenticity and transparency." "Companies that are just doing performative actions without going deep are not winning Millennials or Gen Z over." Consumers today are hungry for authenticity, continues Rice, and want to know the impact of their purchase and not just a sticker on the clothing tag. "Storytelling is the superpower of every great brand," explains Rice. "There's clear evidence that consumers respond when brands tell a powerful story about their sustainability efforts, whether it's fair trade or beyond. They show loyalty, they amplify the brand in their communities both online and offline, and they buy more." This is particularly evident in some of the apparel labels that Fair Trade USA has been working with over the years. For example, Patagonia – one of the pioneers of Fair Trade apparel -- has taken many field trips to their suppliers and manufacturers to see impact, and created some mini-documentaries that tell the story of fair trade. "When you tell the story of a garment worker whose life has improved because of fair trade, that creates consumer loyalty. It turns customers into brand advocates. That's why I titled my book 'Every Purchase Matters,' because, at the end of the day, consumer choice does matter in terms of how companies act." Patagonia has launched the United Repair Centre (URC) in collaboration with Makers Unite and with the support of the Amsterdam Economic Board Credits: Patagonia 'Voting every four years for President is important. But we can vote every day with our wallets. And companies are listening,' - Paul Rice According to Rice, the most successful brands and retailers today are the ones who have figured out how to use storytelling beyond the Fair Trade Certified label, although the label in itself is a great signal of confidence to consumers. "We have 66 percent consumer awareness of the Fair Trade Certified label in the US market today, which is pretty extraordinary, especially for a small non-profit." And consumers are paying closer attention than ever before, meaning that brand neutrality is no longer a safe bet. According to the Givsly study, half of US consumers expect brands to take a stand on social causes, with 3 in 10 changing their purchasing behavior based on a brand's values. But this does not mean that brands have to be perfect. 'Most consumers are open to change from a brand, as long as it's authentic, and followed by long-term commitment.' As more consumers prioritize responsibly made products, the opportunity for brands to build deeper, values-based connections grows. And as companies respond, each purchase becomes a powerful way for consumers to influence meaningful change. "It's my belief that we don't have to wait four years to vote for change. We can vote for change today when we go to the store simply by choosing a sustainable product over a non-certified product, in whatever category, right?" However, if every purchase is a vote, it does raise an important question at the heart of conscious capitalism: who pays for the change? Should consumers bear the cost of fair trade and ethical sourcing, or companies? This is something Rice explores head-on in one of the chapters of his book, taking a look at both sides. Who Should Have to Pay For Sustainability? "On the one hand, there are business leaders like Tarang Amin, CEO of e.l.f. Beauty. In three years, the brand has converted 85 percent of its business to fair trade - without charging consumers more." By investing in sustainability, e.l.f Beauty has been able to pay fair wages while simultaneously seeing strong growth in sales and market share, which has helped the brand maintain healthy profit margins, shares Rice. Due to the brand's higher product volume, their fixed costs are spread out more efficiently, and their unit margins have actually increased - a powerful example of how doing the right thing can also drive business success. 'I think they've reported net sales and market share growth for 25 quarters in a row. It's extraordinary, they're on fire.' E.l.f. partners with Billie Jean King to elevate and empower women in sports Credits: E.l.f. Beauty On the other hand, there are entrepreneurs like John Mackey, former CEO of Whole Foods Market, who believes consumers should pay more for sustainable products and that price signals quality and legitimacy. "If something is too cheap, consumers question the product's validity and think 'something's wrong here.' They expect to pay more." Much like we've learned to pay more for organic produce, Mackey believes that certified products should cost more. While this approach may appeal mainly to higher-income shoppers, it can still create a large and successful niche market, exactly like Whole Foods, which is one of the leading retailers of fair trade products in the US. Conscious Capitalism, is it a Trend or Transformation? When questioned about which point he believes, Rice states that he respects both paths. "Look, there's Target, which sells fair trade jeans for 19.95 dollars, and Whole Foods, which charges a premium. I like that both demographics can access fair trade, whether you're shopping at Target or Whole Foods." He adds that ethical sourcing often generates additional operational value and more resistant supply chains, which is important in the current global political landscape. A few years ago, Fair Trade USA did a pilot with Walmart and NatureSweet for fair trade tomatoes, where they paid the workers more but did not pass the cost along to the consumers. "Walmart found that farms that adopted the fair trade practices had four times the industry average in terms of worker retention. That translates into less money spent on recruiting and training and higher worker productivity. There's a supply chain business case for conscious capitalism, not just a consumer-facing one." Touching on the current political climate in the US today, Rice is realistic about the changes taking place. 'Depending on how you think about change, sitting in my office today, it may not feel like capitalism is evolving very quickly. In many ways, businesses are pulling back from progressive values—especially under political pressure.' Touching on Trump's tariff policies, Rice believes it to have a negative impact overall, from raising prices for consumers, hurting businesses, and discouraging investment in sustainability. 'I spoke with a company in Mexico last week that had plans to install solar panels and remodel worker housing—two key sustainability investments. Both projects are now on indefinite hold because they're unsure if they'll even be in business in a few months from now.' Lady shopping in Walmart Credits: Photo Credits: Walmart. Rice also criticizes how the policies have been implemented, saying they've created global tension and confusion. While he doesn't see a direct negative impact on fair trade yet, he notes that Fair Trade USA certifies farms and factories in over 70 countries—including the US—and is ready to support domestic manufacturing if companies decide to bring production back home. 'If Patagonia or William Sonoma want to bring back production, we would say 'yes, of course, no problem.'' However, looking at the progress of fair trade from a broader perspective, the last 30 years show clear progress. 'Brands care more about workers, about materials, about waste. Over the next 30 years we will go even further.' In 2024 alone, Fair Trade USA and its brand partners generated over 100 million dollars in premiums for farmers and workers. For Rice, capitalism isn't going away, but it is constantly evolving, and not necessarily out of respect for the environment or workers. 'I don't expect every brand to act out of altruism. Most embrace fair trade because they find a business case. And that's okay. That's how capitalism works.' What's Next for Fair Trade USA and Conscious Capitalism? Looking ahead to what's to come, Rice believes the future lies in radical transparency and data-driven storytelling. Fair Trade USA is currently working on a project to help brands access data and content at scale to have a larger impact, using new technologies to tell stories in new ways. "Hangtags are fine. But imagine scanning a QR code and watching a video of the seamstress who made your shirt. AI and blockchain will play a role in curating and delivering those stories in real-time," he says. "That's going to be a big part of Fair Trade USA's focus over the next couple of years. So stay tuned." Overall, the Fair Trade USA certification process has evolved extensively over the last 26 years. For example, it standardized the 'community development premium,' which is the amount of money a brand is required to pay back to the factory workers, to make it more accessible to more brands. 'We used to have a sliding scale for premiums, 1 to 10 percent, which wasn't scalable. Now we've simplified it: a flat 1 percent of the factory price goes directly back to workers. That's manageable even at volume.' More importantly, that money isn't earmarked by brands. It's democratically managed by the workers themselves, who can choose to invest it in housing, healthcare, education, or daycare. 'That empowerment is our secret sauce,' says Rice. 'It's why we see higher worker retention. They stay because they feel seen and heard.' Madewell partnership with ThredUp Credits: Image: A Circular Store Fair Trade USA's continuous improvement of its certification process and model has certainly played a big role in the non-profit organization's growth. Although farms and factories must meet baseline criteria to get certified, they're then graded on the progress they make annually, encouraging long-term change and improvement. "That's how we moved from working with smaller brands to working with the likes of Gap and And the proof is in the pudding. Fair Trade USA's apparel program grew 24 percent in 2024, compared with 2% growth of the overall US apparel industry, highlights Rice. "But if we can be successful with what I call a 'lighthouse brand,' like Patagonia, we can create competitive pressure on others. For example, we've been working with and its subsidiary brand Madewell for seven years. Four or five years ago, they made a very public goal of having 90 percent of their jeans, cashmere, and chinos fair trade by 2025. And, they're going to hit the mark." Not only does this raise expectations for other brands, but it also holds Madewell accountable for its goals. The decision to publicly share its goals not only built consumer trust but also sparked interest from other brands like Banana Republic, which is now in talks with Fair Trade USA. Rice believes this kind of healthy competition among leading brands is a powerful driver of progress in ethical sourcing and production across the industry. 'It's not just about niche consumers or boutique brands anymore. It's about reshaping the market at scale. And when companies respond to consumer demand, that's when real change happens.' Summary Conscious capitalism and fair trade are gaining traction as consumers increasingly demand ethical and sustainable practices from brands. Storytelling and transparency are crucial for brands to connect with consumers who want to know the impact of their purchases. Fair Trade USA is evolving its certification process and leveraging technology to promote radical transparency and data-driven storytelling, empowering both workers and consumers.
Associated Press
15-05-2025
- Business
- Associated Press
Fair Trade USA™, Partners Reach $100 Million in Funds for Factory Workers
Milestone supports worker-led investment in education, healthcare, safety OAKLAND, Calif., May 15, 2025 /PRNewswire/ -- Fair Trade USA and its partners have generated $100 million in Community Development Funds – a significant milestone that directly benefits factory workers and their communities throughout the world. Each purchase of a Fair Trade Certified™ product contributes to Community Development Funds, enabling farmers and workers to invest in projects that address their greatest needs. Workers decide democratically how funds are spent, so projects are diverse in scope and impact. Many workers choose to use funds on education, healthcare initiatives, business development, food distribution, or environmental projects. Fair Trade partners also see certification build trust with consumers, who are increasingly looking to support brands with strong commitments to ethics and sustainability. Since launching its Factory Program in 2010, Fair Trade USA has certified more than 100 factories worldwide, all of which meet rigorous standards. Fair Trade Certified factories ensure fair wages, safe working conditions, increased economic opportunity, and Community Development Funds for workers to invest in building thriving communities. 'This milestone is a testament to what's possible when businesses prioritize people and the planet,' said Felipe Arango, CEO of Fair Trade USA. Fair Trade USA partners consistently raise the bar for what it means to conduct responsible, fair, and sustainable business. Fair Trade USA's factory brand partners who have been instrumental in reaching the $100 million milestone include Arc'teryx, Boll & Branch, Cotopaxi, e.l.f., Eileen Fisher, HAE Now, J Crew, Known Supply, Madewell, Mightly, PACT, Patagonia, Peak Design, Terra Thread, Williams Sonoma, Inc., West Elm and Pottery Barn, and more. About Fair Trade USA Fair Trade USA, a tax-exempt 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization, is the leading certifier of Fair Trade products in North America. Offering award-winning, rigorous, and globally recognized sustainable sourcing certification programs that improve livelihoods, protect the environment, and build resilient, transparent supply chains, its trusted Fair Trade Certified™ label on a product signifies that it was made according to stringent Fair Trade standards. Fair Trade USA is building an innovative model of responsible business, conscious consumerism, and shared value to eliminate poverty and enable sustainable development for farmers, workers, their families, and communities around the world Contact: Fair Trade USA Public Relations [email protected] View original content to download multimedia: SOURCE Fair Trade USA™
Yahoo
02-05-2025
- General
- Yahoo
Pros spill the beans on how to make the best iced coffee you've ever had
Spring is well underway, and that means it's iced coffee season. Whether you prefer yours black or have been known to indulge in a frothy iced vanilla latte, we've got tips from the pros on making it barista-worthy at home. The key to avoiding a watered-down cup? Brew stronger coffee than you would when drinking it hot. What comes next? Sweetener, milk, flavored syrup — the options are endless. According to the National Coffee Association, 71% of coffee drinkers brew their coffee at home. When we asked industry pros how to make the best iced coffee from the comfort of our own kitchen, many agreed that your favorite coffee maker, whether you use a high-tech espresso machine or a simpler drip brewer, can work for iced coffee. "Making great iced coffee at home doesn't require much — just good coffee, a reliable brewing method, water and plenty of ice," says Nicole Maurer, senior brand manager for Mr. Coffee. "Controlling the coffee quality and brew strength is key." More tips right this way! Read more: Gotta a latte-loving mom or dad? These are the best gifts for coffee lovers in your life | The best iced coffee makers | The best cold brew makers Large-format cubes aren't just for cocktails. "Oversized ice cubes or spheres melt more slowly and keep your drink tasting fresh," explains Christina Correa, co-founder of The SisterYard cold brew concentrate. Another trick for fans of a strong brew is making ice cubes out of coffee instead of water. "This simple trick helps maintain a strong, consistent flavor as the ice melts," says Maurer. Lauren Abendroth, director of research and development at Death Wish Coffee Co. looks for callouts that the beans are organic and Fair Trade USA certified, "which indicates higher coffee quality since it is sustainably sourced and held to rigorous standards." No matter what you buy, "Always use freshly roasted coffee; anything within three weeks of the initial roast date should still be vibrant and strong," says Bobby Winston, director of coffee for French Truck Coffee. Freshly ground beans make all the difference in brewing a flavorful, strong coffee, whether it's cold or hot. "A medium-coarse grind for iced coffee provides a slow and even extraction for the best flavor in your cup. A high-quality coffee grinder will precisely grind beans right before brewing," says David Shull, executive vice president for JURA and Capresso. Getting the ratio of coffee to water right is essential to brewing the perfect cup of iced coffee, and you'll need a scale to weigh the coffee grounds. Chef Matthew Cutolo of Gargiulo's in Brooklyn, N.Y., explains, "A classic starting point is a 1:16 or 1:17 ratio — about 60 grams of coffee per liter of water. That's similar to how many Italian cafés balance strength with smoothness. For iced coffee, I sometimes make it a little stronger so it stands up to the ice." So, for a 1:16 ratio, you'll use 1 gram of coffee to 16 grams of water, which works out to about 2 tablespoons of grounds for every 6 fluid ounces of water. "There's something about drinking from a unique glass or tumbler that makes the whole experience feel elevated," says Correa. We couldn't agree more: It's easy to make your day a bit brighter when you reach for a glass, a to-go cup or even a straw that feels fun and a little special, while also being functional. When you're craving a chilled specialty coffee drink or you're hosting a festive brunch, the addition of a flavored syrup can really hit the spot. Just think of the response you'll get when you ask a friend if you can make her an iced caramel latte. "When I'm creating recipes, I use Monin or Maison Routin 1883 syrups. They are all-natural and have great flavor," says Heidi Rasmussen, senior manager of quality assurance and education at Illy. "It's better to start light with syrup. For a 12-ounce iced drink, I would start with 1/3-ounce and add more in 1/3-ounce increments to taste," she suggests.
Yahoo
21-02-2025
- Lifestyle
- Yahoo
How to make the best coffee of your life with these pro tips
If your morning coffee's feeling a little bean there, done that, it's time to up your game. You could invest in a new drip coffee maker — or heck, go true barista-style and get an espresso machine. Or you could simply follow these expert tricks for how to make the best coffee using whatever brewing method you like most. When you drink it in moderation, coffee has numerous health benefits, including helping with weight management and reducing the risk of certain diseases like Type 2 diabetes and Alzheimer's. (If you're like me, it can also be a convincing reason to get out of bed, period.) No wonder daily java consumption is higher than it's been in 20 years! The pros we spoke to had different takes on the ideal brewing method, but they all agreed that to make the best cup of coffee, you need to put in a little work. I know, I know, that's a lot to ask when you've just woken up, but taking a few simple steps like measuring your grinds — versus just dumping them into your coffee maker — and researching the beans you buy can make a huge difference. They also had tips for sweetening up your cup, plus suggestions for coffee-making essentials no java nerd should be without. Smooth sipping ahead! Read more: Grounds for celebration? These are the best gifts for coffee lovers in your life The more info listed on your bag of coffee, the better, says Jeff Daniels, director of sales for Non-Fiction Coffee Co. "I look for details like elevation, sub-region, farm or farmer names, and processing methods. The more information, the more confidence I have in the quality of the green coffee and the intentionality behind its sourcing." Lauren Abendroth, director of research and development at Death Wish Coffee Co., also checks for callouts that the beans are organic and Fair Trade USA certified, "which indicates higher coffee quality since it is sustainably sourced and held to rigorous standards." No matter what you buy, "Always use freshly roasted coffee; anything within three weeks of the initial roast date should still be vibrant and strong," says Bobby Winston, director of coffee for French Truck Coffee. It's always a good idea to buy whole bean coffee: "Keeping beans whole allows them to last longer," says Shane Schaibly, senior vice president of culinary strategy at First Watch. And if you do, make sure you're grinding the beans to the right coarseness for your brewing method. "Too fine of a grind leads to over-extraction, which is another term for bitterness," says Abendroth. "Finer ground coffee should be used when the contact time between the coffee and the water is very short (i.e. a 60-second pod brew), while more coarse grind sizes should be used for brew methods that require longer contact time between the coffee and the water (i.e French Press)." One of the biggest mistakes people make when brewing coffee is using the wrong amount of grounds. "Most coffee brands typically provide optimal coffee-to-water ratios based on their research to ensure a balanced and smooth cup. Definitely pay attention to this!" says Abendroth. "When the ratio is off, the resulting brewed cup can taste over-extracted (bitter) or under-extracted (watery)." Or just follow the standard ratio: 1 gram of coffee to 16 grams of water, which works out to be about 2 tablespoons of grounds for every 6 fluid ounces of water. You can play around with this, though. "If you prefer a stronger brew, try 1:15. For lighter roasts that need a bit more extraction, experiment with 1:17," suggests Daniels. To ensure every cuppa you make tastes great, use a scale. "Coffee, like cooking or baking, benefits from precision," he adds. "Many people overlook the importance of using a recipe and instead 'eyeball it,' which can lead to inconsistent results." Fresh beans mean better-tasting coffee, so make sure you store them in an airtight container that's not clear and not glass, says Schaibly. "Heat, light and moisture are all damaging to the quality of the beans," he explains. Look for a cool, dry and dark place that's away from windows, the stove and any strong-smelling items — i.e. don't keep coffee with your spices! The same goes for ground coffee. Sure, you could use your regular old creamer or milk and sugar, but the pros we spoke to had other ideas in mind. "For unflavored coffee, adding a pinch of a fresh spice like cinnamon, nutmeg or ginger can result in an elevated coffee experience and a little extra cozy feeling, especially in the colder months," says Abendroth. As for creamer, both Daniels and Winston like oat milk: "It has enough body to hold up to and pair well with coffee but is also relatively neutral, so the coffee taste still comes through," says Winston. Want to sweeten things up? "Honey and simple syrup pair well with coffee without overpowering the original blend's taste," he adds. "During the summer, I'll throw [some] cold brew concentrate, ice, oat milk and honey in the blender for a homemade frappe kind of beverage." Attention, all you iced coffee people: You don't have to suffer through a watery brew just because you prefer things chilled. "One unexpected thing I like to use is the large cocktail-style ice cubes for my iced coffee because it keeps the iced coffee cold without diluting it too quickly," says Winston. You could also freeze cold coffee in ice cube trays for an extra boost of flavor.
Yahoo
28-01-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Santa Fe jeweler touts use of responsibly sourced African gold
For the past decade, a Santa Fe shop has served as the only certified fair-trade gold jeweler in the country, according to its owner and CEO. Now, Reflective Jewelry, 912 Baca St., also carries the distinction of being the first company in the world to import and create jewelry from responsibly sourced artisanal gold from the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Kyle Abraham Bi says. Bi purchased Reflective Jewelry in 2023 from owners Marc Choyt and Helen Chantler after working at the shop for six years. The Brown University graduate said his goal was to follow the example set by Choyt and Chantler over 28 years by continuing to nudge the jewelry industry toward embracing ethical sourcing for its materials. It was the former owners who worked to get Reflective Jewelry certified as a fair-trade gold dealer in 2015, a classification that signifies the company or product meets rigorous social, environmental and economic standards, according to the Fair Trade USA website, providing for safe working conditions, environmental protection, sustainable livelihoods and community development funding. 012725_GC_GoldJeweler02rgb.jpg Maynard Garcia, a jeweler with more than 25 years of experience, adds certified fair-trade gold and alloy metals into a crucible to melt down to make custom gold pieces Monday at Reflective Jewelry, 912 Baca St. Bi and Reflective Jewelry also have been part of a sustained effort by a number of entities for the past several years to establish the Zahabu Safi, or 'Clean Gold' program. The project is designed to help independent, artisanal miners in the DRC receive a fair wage for their work and process the gold they produce without mercury, leading to better health outcomes for the miners and their families, who tend to live adjacent to the mines and often are directly exposed to the toxic, liquid element. 'Gold sourcing is an incredibly complex thing,' Bi said, describing why it took seven years for the partners in Zahabu Safi — led by Society Artisanal and the United States Agency for International Development, which funded the initiative at the level of several million dollars — to establish the new supply chain. Approximately 20% of the world's gold supply is produced by those small-scale miners, he said, often in some of the world's most remote, underdeveloped and lawless places, including the DRC. And gold mining is a leading contributor to mercury pollution, Bi said, explaining the element often is combined with gold to provide it with greater mass. 'It's a very dirty industry,' he said. 'Creating change' Bi's jewelry shop has played a direct role in bringing the Zahabu Safi gold to market, as it began fabricating wedding bands from the material in September. He described the opening of the new supply chain for responsibly sourced gold as a transformational change for his industry. 'This has a real possibility for creating change on a scale that's never been realized,' Bi said. The Zahabu Safi program features a new level of traceability and transparency in how the gold reaches the market, he said, resulting in much greater benefits for workers and their families as well as environmental protection. That doesn't mean the program is perfect, he said, noting it does not duplicate the same lofty standards as fair trade. 'It's really difficult to get up to fair-trade standards,' Bi said. 'And those are not necessarily realistic for every scenario.' But Zahabu Safi represents a big step forward, he said, defending the program as having a level of practicality and achievability that fair trade may not. 'You need to meet people where they are,' Bi said. The Zahabu Safi products cost about 20% more than basic, open-market gold, he said, acknowledging that may keep some folks from opting to purchase them. But he encouraged customers to educate themselves on the issue before they make a decision. It's not just about the cost of the gold, he said. 012725_GC_GoldJeweler03rgb.jpg Kyle Abraham Bi, owner of Reflective Jewelry, looks through a case of jewelry Monday at Reflective Jewelry, 912 Baca St. 'You're buying this wedding ring that is a symbol of your lifelong commitment to your partner,' he said. 'But, unknown to a lot of people, this gold has contributed to destroying ecosystems and keeping people in poverty.' Bi became so committed to helping Zahabu Safi become a reality that he traveled to the DRC in 2021 to visit several of the mines, speak with the miners and see for himself what conditions were like. He said he hasn't made any plans to return there, but he has been monitoring the situation and is encouraged by what he has heard. 'I've been hearing stories from Society Artisanal [which bills itself as the first company in the world to mine and export third party-validated, conflict-free gold from the DRC] about how conditions are coming together,' Bi said. 'But people in the Congo are used to seeing their natural resources go out and not a lot of money coming in. So there's not a lot of trust there. But we've been able to build up a level of trust.' Bi said if the Zahabu Safi program improves conditions in only a single community in the DRC, it will have been worth it. Patience required So far, Reflective Jewelry has received two shipments of the responsibly sourced gold. Bi hopes many others follow. 'The supply chain is still not strong, and conditions are what they are,' he said. 'But we have made a number of rings from this gold, and we want to make more.' Bi said he expects the supply chain to remain somewhat unreliable for a while, meaning some folks who are willing to pay a premium for the gold may have to wait for it. He compared conditions in the DRC to the Wild West and said many factors are simply not in the hands of Zahabu Safi supporters. 'I would expect a constant battle, and it's going to take a willingness [to be patient] from those buying the gold,' he said. Bi acknowledged he has become deeply invested in the issue of promoting responsibly sourced gold over the past several years. He pointed to the growing awareness of and aversion to 'blood diamonds' among customers worldwide as proof consumers can be persuaded to be more discerning when it comes to their jewelry-buying habits. 'This is obviously something I really believe in, and I encourage those who haven't looked into these kinds of issues to do so,' he said. 'We all have the power to change the world in some small way.'
