14-05-2025
Venice: where tourists float and locals sink – the battle for the city's soul
Tourist on on a gondola in Venice.
Image: Pexels
Venice, the city of canals, gondolas and timeless romance, attracts an estimated 30 million tourists each year, a staggering number compared to the dwindling local population, now under 50 000.
While it's easy to see why the floating city is a global bucket-list favourite, Venetians say their home is at risk of losing its soul.
Famous for its grand palazzos, historic churches and dreamy gondola rides along the Grand Canal, Venice offers centuries of art, architecture and romance. But for locals, the day-to-day reality is far less picturesque.
Most housing has been converted into short-term rentals, shops cater to visitors instead of residents, and jobs outside the tourism industry have become scarce.
The situation echoes what's been seen in Spain, where local communities, especially in hotspots like Mallorca and the Canary Islands, have launched anti-tourism protests, urging foreign visitors to rethink their travel plans.
In Venice, frustration is mounting too, particularly because around 90% of visitors are day-trippers, meaning they place pressure on city services without supporting the local economy.
'No wonder some people call Venice the 'dying city' and the 'sinking city,'' said Simone Venturini, the city councillor for tourism, in CNN's "The Whole Story: Saving Venice".
To address the issue, authorities trialled a €5 day-tripper fee (R100 in South African rand) in 2024, a move set to be repeated in 2025. The city also uses a 'Smart Control Room' to monitor visitor flows. While some residents view these as positive steps, others worry they're not enough.
There are currently over 8 000 Airbnb listings in Venice, 77% of which are entire properties. Many are managed by hosts with multiple listings, not simply locals renting out their spare room.
'We have nothing against private property, but if you rent 20 houses only to tourists, then you become a problem for your community,' said Dal Carlo, a Venetian who now lives on the mainland.
Venice attracts an estimated 30 million tourists each year.
Image: Pexels
In response, alternative platforms like Fairbnb have emerged, offering rentals owned only by locals and capping the number of properties per host. Half of the booking fees are also reinvested into local projects.
But as Carlo warns, 'There's not going to be another Venice. Once you have helped change this place forever, it's not coming back.'
Despite the challenges, many Venetians are finding ways to resist the tide. Some keep cultural traditions alive, like the voga alla veneta, a stand-up rowing technique still used in city regattas.
Another person taking up the baton is a designer, who returned to her native Venice during the pandemic after living abroad. Wanting to contribute to the community's resilience, she opened a shop where she crafts products that resemble souvenirs.
Her signature items are candles and soaps shaped like the architectural flourishes of Venetian Gothic buildings. She started by making lollipops that mirror the iconic pattern of the Doge's Palace colonnade.
Others lead sustainable tourism initiatives such as rowing tours through the lesser-known canals, showing visitors the city from a local perspective.
Fabio Carrera, founder of the Venice Project Center, believes it's not too late to save the city.
"I think enough people realise that the [tourism] card has been overplayed now and there's going to be some sort of retrenching,' he said.
His team has studied ways to reduce the environmental and structural impact of tourism, including new boat routes and the potential for a microalgae farm in the lagoon.
Of course, the lagoon is Venice's lifeline and its greatest vulnerability. Rising sea levels and increased maritime traffic have led to more frequent flooding.
The MOSE flood barrier system, introduced in 2020 after decades of planning, was designed to be used sparingly but was activated 33 times in just its first 14 months.
Still, Carrera remains hopeful. 'I'm oddly optimistic,' he said. He envisions a future where people can live in Venice and work on the mainland via improved transport links.
Others believe attracting a broader population beyond tourism workers is essential to restoring balance.
'Venice was never a city of shop owners and renters. That's what it's become,' Carlo said.
