a day ago
Forget Greece, head to Italy for an island-hopping adventure this summer
In my opinion, Greece, although beautiful, has too many islands. Choosing which one to visit is nearly impossible, the ferries are complicated, and holidays on the Aegean or Ionian too often turn into a sweaty tangle of logistics and are beset by the paralysis of indecision.
By comparison, the lesser-known off the north-west coast of Sicily, with turquoise waters, rugged beaches and lashings of gelato, makes for an easier alternative. With straightforward ferries and only three of five islands open to visitors, the paradox of choice is eliminated. Here's our guide to visiting.
Favignana
Favignana is the largest island and, according to some, is where the Greek hero Odysseus came to hunt goats. Today it's highly prized among Sicilians, who jaunt over for weekend breaks from nearby Palermo.
A 30-minute hydrofoil boat trip from the port of Trapani, it's geographically close to Sicily, but Favignana is worlds apart – life simply slows down here.
Dimora Cala del Pozzo, hidden down a lane on the quieter west coast, makes for an excellent base to explore the island. An old farmhouse converted into a boutique hotel, the setting is serene and elegant.
Handsomely furnished rooms are sound-tracked by the sea beyond, and a lavish breakfast is hosted in the cactus garden, including local ingredients from the family's organic farm.
Locals advise checking the direction of the wind before choosing the best coves for swimming. Cala Trapanese is recommended, where the rocks form a natural swimming pool with views of Sicily across the water.
Inland, visit the Garden of the Impossible to discover another link to the Odyssey myth. A spiky green plant that looks a bit like a cactus is, according to local guidebooks, apparently the plant that Circe used to turn Odysseus's men into pigs.
Islanders were once sceptical about the feasibility of the botanical garden, which was created in a series of abandoned quarry pits. Today it's a peaceful oasis of tumbling vines, rare trees and plants, and includes an exhibition of sculptures by a local artist. Use the guidebook to explore (it's superior to the audio alternative).
Favignana's history of quarrying has shaped the landscape of the island, and the exoskeleton of abandoned quarries forms architectural rock pools along the shoreline. Spot golden-brown Moray eels lurking in the pools at Scalo Cavallo, or visit Bue Marino, one of the former quarries, and explore the deep waters at one of the island's best snorkelling locations.
Insider tip
The best way to explore the island is by bicycle – try GAC rental shop. Beaches are mostly rocky, but Lido Burrone has white sand and is perfect for children.
Where to eat
Hotel Aegusa serves good pasta dishes on a pretty outdoor terrace. For something more high-end end try Sotto Sale or Quello che c'è...c'è! For pizza, visit Cala Bianca.
Where to shop
Bottega Camparia – a chic boutique with an expertly curated selection of fashion and homeware; Salvatore Aleo 's jewellery shop has pieces to suit a range of budgets; try Borinda Sanna for handmade ceramics.
Where to stay
In high season, it's quieter to stay outside the main village (Favignana Town), but you'll need to ensure you have bike lights to cycle back after dinner. Dimora Cala del Pozzo has doubles from £279/€330 per night, including breakfast, in high season. Its sister hotel Dimora Della Olivastro offers doubles from £261/€310 per night, including breakfast. Weekends in summer are especially busy – book in advance or plan your stay for the weekdays.
Marettimo
The most remote island in the archipelago, Marettimo, has also been linked to Homer's The Odyssey.
Samuel Butler, a Victorian novelist, put forward a theory that this island was the inspiration for Ithaca – an exhibition is planned for later this year, which will showcase his photographs at the local museum.
The island is an ideal place for hiking, and there are roughly 10 marked trails to choose from. A popular route leads up to the tiny Byzantine church, set like a jewel on a cliff facing out to sea, next to the ruins of a Roman house. For a longer walk, continue to reach Pizzo Falcone (the highest peak) and return from Portella Madonnuzza via the Punta Troia Castle (now a lovely museum) and back to the village.
There are more than 500 different species of plants here, some of which are endemic to the island and scents of thyme and rosemary infuse the air as you walk. But the sea surrounding Marettimo is also a draw. The Aegadian Islands are protected by the largest marine reserve in Europe, and the scuba diving around Marettimo is particularly good thanks to its crystal clear waters. If you're extremely lucky, you might even spot a monk seal.
Insider tip
For a unique perspective, take a boat to see the island's caves – accessible only on the water. Tours by Pippo come highly recommended.
Where to eat
Pizzeria Hiera is one of the oldest restaurants on the island, and is practically an institution. Maria, now in her seventies, served delightful antipasto, including a miniature arancine made with cuttlefish ink and pistachio.
Where to shop
Local artist Massimo Pironi makes ceramics in his home studio – find him near Caffe Tramontana, where he sells pieces inspired by the island, the sea and the mountain.
Where to stay
La Tartaruga B&B – double rooms cost from £85/€100 in high season, including breakfast, with a three-night minimum stay. There are also plenty of apartments for rent; The Thinking Traveller has a villa on the island.
Levanzo
This tiny sparkling island is so pretty that it looks like a Hollywood set designer built it for a movie.
Measuring just 2.25 square miles and with only three restaurants and a handful of beaches, Levanzo is known for its off-grid vibes. However, according to local reports, the Prada family own two houses here. Most people visit to look at the cave paintings at Grotta del Genovese, which date from both the Palaeolithic and Neolithic eras.
Reserve in advance (guided tours cost £35/€42 for adults and £25/€30 for children) – there's quite a steep trail down to the cave, which can only be reached on foot.
After seeing the cave paintings, it's worth strolling around the island. Cala Faraglione on the south-west coast, about 30 minutes' walk from the port, is the island's most picture-perfect beach, complete with a tiny island (technically a rock stack) floating offshore. End the day with a relaxing glass of Sicilian wine at one of the island's restaurants by the harbour before catching the last boat back to Favignana.
Inside tip
Cala Minnola is one of the nicest beaches for swimming
Where to eat
Try the pasta con gamberi at Bar Romano, an absurdly picturesque restaurant which juts out over the harbour with views of Favignana in the distance.
Where to shop
Mannaraò offers a selection of handmade jewellery and other delights.
Where to stay
Dolcevita Egadi Resort is a new hotel set a short walk from the port on a breezy terrace – rooms are simple and there's a swimming pool. Double rooms cost £321/€380 in high season, including breakfast, with a five-night minimum stay.
How to get there
Ryanair flies from London to Trapani in the summer months. Alternatively, fly to Palermo, take a bus to Trapani (about one hour) and hop on the Hydrofoil from Trapani port (30 to 45 minutes). There are regular boats between the islands but make sure you prebook tickets in high season
Laura Coffey was a guest of Hotel Dimora Cala Del Pozzo.
