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Yahoo
04-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Emilio Pucci Spring 2025: A Show With a View
PORTOFINO, Italy — Stocks globally may be tanking and the fashion industry may be coming to terms with the new wave of Trump tariffs, but leave it to Pucci and artistic director Camille Miceli to bring a whiff of much-needed respite with her joyful and colorful designs. Miceli chose the stunning La Cervara, a former abbey on the coastal road to Portofino, for her spring 2025 show. First erected in the 12th century, the abbey complex is a designated National Monument of Italy, with a breathtaking view of the Tigullio Gulf, an Italian Renaissance-style garden that directly faces the sea and a wisteria pergola. Miceli timed the show for around 230 guests shortly before sunset, leading to numerous Instagrammable moments. More from WWD How Much Will Hermès Birkins, Chanel Flap Bags and Fendi Baguettes Cost After Trump's Tariffs Hit European Imports? The Power of Flowers Celebrated in Paris New York Fashion Designer Kenny Bonavitacola Dies at 71 It was the ideal setting for her fashion show, centered on the Marmo, a marble-like print she revived since her first collection in 2022, and inspired by the reflection of the sun onto the sea. This season, the print was revisited in soft sorbet and powder pink hues, winding around black waves on flowing silk pants and shirts. It was also reproduced through printed sequins or metal eyelets and through black and white sea shells, hand-stitched by the Pucci artisans — still at work backstage, sewing one shell at a time on a blouson top or a fringed skirt. In fact, for this collection Miceli raised the bar on craftsmanship, for a sophisticated lineup that featured more black than in past lineups. Pucci's signature prints were recurring, but at times merely details on the hem of a sleeve of a little black dress or appearing through the fringes of a dress or a cape. The Stella print, an homage to the moon and the stars, and the Maddalena, or 'gocciolone,' reminiscent of an expanded drop, defined by sleek and graphic curves, appeared on a caftan or a minidress. Iride and Orchidee were also signature prints that Miceli revisited. 'I change the colors but never the names,' said the designer, who always pays tribute to founder Emilio Pucci. Miceli said she wanted her designs to look airy, with fluid shapes, and she worked with 'disproportions,' narrower skirts under larger 'balloon' blouses in poplin cotton. 'I like the idea of the trompe-l'oeil; they look like two pieces, but it's actually one dress,' she said. She also created silver bijoux that looked like tattoos on the skin, reproducing the marble print. 'I remember how Karl [Lagerfeld] said that when you wear Pucci, it's as if you have a tattoo,' remarked Miceli. The laces of the sandals also wove around the models' legs, looking like tattoos. Miceli staged her first runway show for Pucci in Florence in 2023, following up with Rome last year. Before that, she opted for multiday lifestyle 'experiences' in such jet-set destinations as Capri and Saint Moritz — resort towns that, like Portofino, have attracted European aristocracy and the international jet-set since the 1950s. Asked about this location, Miceli said she had wanted to stage a show in a home 'for some time' — although the estate, now privately owned, is not your average abode. 'I know this was an abbey, but for me, I see it as the house of the Pucci woman. The gardens, the view, what more do you want? And I love the small stones of the black and white floor.' Indeed, while reminiscent of the marble print, she said she does not design her collections with a location in mind. Reflecting on the changing habits of consumers, Miceli said 'we are very lucky because things are going very well — knock on wood — and I think women come to Pucci because when they wear the brand they want to feel special, they don't want to be part of a uniform crowd, and this is increasingly so compared with the past. And also because Pucci is synonymous with joy and femininity.' America continues to be a very strong market for Pucci, which will open a store in Houston this month. The Portofino boutique was just redesigned with the help of architect Pierre Passebon. Keeping prices in check and in line with the brand is also key for Miceli, targeting different women — which was reflected both in the casting that also included the likes of Kristen McMenamy, Karen Elson and Naomi Campbell, who closed the show — and in the pool of young influencers dancing in their seats to the the soundtrack by Nada. 'I like how Pucci has a very clear identity,' said Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou, who was named deputy chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture last month. (Pucci is controlled by LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy). 'The challenge is to always bring novelty to the brand respecting its identity, maintaining its lightness, accessibility, joy, and sophisticated femininity that I find beautiful. And Camille transmits a laid back attitude and an energy that is contagious.' The executive, speaking ahead of the show, also talked about the see now, buy now format for Pucci, 'fitting for the brand, which has its own visibility outside the fashion weeks' schedule. And how perfect to be able to show when the days get sunnier, in a beautiful location and you can choose to wear these [summery] clothes right away.' Marisa Berenson also enthused about the show, 'beautiful and brilliant. Camille is so talented and creative, she modernized the brand but kept the Pucci DNA.' She was also happy about returning to Portofino. 'It brings back so many wonderful memories for me; I've been here many times in the past when I was young,' she mused. Wearing a stunning necklace in mother -of-pearl and crystals, she said it was part of her own namesake jewelry line. 'I live in Marrakech now so I make them there. I regenerate there, where I have a little corner of paradise but then I love being out in the world,' she said. Berenson next week will be in Milan as Michela Bruni Reichlin will be selling her jewelry in her showroom on Via Montenapoleone. She is also in the middle of filming between Paris and the south of France a movie she described as a 'psychological investigation.' Launch Gallery: Pucci Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Telegraph
25-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
How Sarah Jessica Parker looks so good at 60, and the lessons all women can learn
Few high-profile women have left such an indelible mark on fashion as Sarah Jessica Parker, who turns 60 today. As Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City, Parker, together with legendary costume designer Patricia Field, created one of the most coveted on-screen wardrobes of all time. But just as influential as Carrie's collection of avant-garde gowns, Fendi Baguettes and Manhattan-ready Manolos is Parker's own sense of fashion – and refreshingly realistic approach to ageing. It's a combination that has seen her become a midlife style icon who is somehow always defiantly herself, known for luminous skin and chic hair as well as a playful, confident approach to dressing. 'She will forever be my most pinned style icon,' says style editor Erica Davies, who says she still looks to Parker for inspiration as she 'hurtles' towards her fifties. 'I love to see a woman in her midlife proving that age is nothing but a number, looking completely fabulous and totally at ease with both herself and her sense of style.' But how does SJP still look so good, especially as she famously avoids Botox? Let's delve into her skin, hair, make-up and style secrets to find out. Style For fashion psychologist Carolyn Mair, Parker's enduring style is reflective of her genuine love of clothes and accessories. 'Her ability to maintain her distinctive style throughout midlife portrays a combination of her authentic self-expression and her intrinsic enjoyment of fashion,' says Mair. 'Dressing up likely provides joy and creative stimulation, and this empowers her to navigate midlife with confidence and flair.' This confidence is infectious. 'Carrie gave me permission to have fun and play around with my clothes in a way that no one else had before,' says Davies. 'And while SJP may not be as bold as Carrie, there is a lot of overlap. I love her playfulness – she appreciates fashion, but doesn't take it, or herself, too seriously. She's happy mixing unusual colour combinations, trying out new clothing shapes or putting together pattern combinations in a unique way.' Hair Gina Gilbert has been the colourist behind Parker's flattering, lived-in blonde for 16 years. 'We like a lot of dimension,' she says. 'With Sarah Jessica's skin tone and beautiful crystal blue eyes, she chose to go with a softer golden blonde tone and then add a few brighter pieces to make it pop and give her that sun-kissed, surfer blonde. Her base colour is a semi-permanent natural brown.' As well as looking great, her hair colour has an anti-ageing effect, as Melanie Smith, senior colourist at Hari's salon group, explains. 'It disguises the grey and is pretty low maintenance too,' she says. 'The dimension can also make the hair appear thicker, which is great as we tend to lose hair, or at the very least see it become a bit finer, as we age.' Stylist Serge Normant is the brains behind the artfully undone waves that have become an SJP signature. To recreate it at home, Hershesons stylist Nataliia Bumford suggests curling random strands with a wand, pulling the hair down as you curl to keep things relaxed and alternating between curling away from the face and towards it. Skin Parker is known for her glowing skin, maintained with minimal intervention. She's shared that she's tried Sofwave, an ultrasound skin-tightening treatment, but avoids Botox. In 2023, she told The Telegraph: 'I'm an actor – I have to move my eyebrows. I'm meant to be sharing emotion and communicating with my face, which, for me, needs to move.' She's also shared details of her surprisingly simple skincare routine, which includes a penchant for E45 Face Foaming Cleanser, £8.99, and even a humble bar of soap. 'Parker lives by a slimline yet extremely efficacious routine that is said to involve cleansing, hydration and sun protection,' says aesthetic doctor and surgeon Dr Paris Acharya. 'She avoids neuromodulators like Botox, so alternative treatments that utilise radiofrequency to support ageing skin and boost collagen production are key. 'She's also known to dabble with superficial chemical peels, and while she hasn't stipulated having had skin boosters [like Profhilo], I would hedge a bet that these would be part of her aesthetic treatment plan.' Make-up 'SJP has always gone for really hyper-natural skin, where of course make-up is present but, crucially, doesn't look it,' explains beauty journalist and podcast host, Madeleine Spencer. Parker's longtime make-up artist Elaine Offers Woulard frequently shares which products she uses to achieve these subtly enhanced, youthfully glowing looks. Among her favourite brands are Charlotte Tilbury, Glossier and beauty insider favourite, Merit. Offers Woulard describes creating a 'warming halo' with Merit's Bronze Balm, £26, before applying Flush Balm, £26, in 'Cheeky' on the apples of the cheeks. 'Merit makes natural, glowing make-up easy,' says Spencer. 'I use the Flush Balm every day, just sliding it onto skin and blending with finger tips. It instantly perks up my complexion. I'm 40, but I would do this for someone who was 80 with the same results – it doesn't have an upper age limit.'
