Latest news with #FrancescoRisso
The Australian
28-04-2025
- Entertainment
- The Australian
Statement hats are the surprise fashion trend on this season's runways
When Francesco Risso sent models down the spring/summer '25 runway, a beguiling, theatrical mood took hold. It wasn't the pencilled-on exaggerated eyebrows, the wiggle skirts or the opera coats, but an unexpected accessory taking surprising command of late: the dramatic hat. Securing their perch as the apogee of accessories, Risso's creations came as exaggerated sailor hats in origami-like gargantuan paper sou'westers and a tilting Audrey Hepburn topper with sweeping brim. Elsewhere, Alessandro Michele – fashion's accoutre-er in chief – adorned sun hats with elegant pheasant feathers, transforming them into supersized aigrettes for Valentino. Chloé and Conner Ives resurrected subversive takes on the pillbox, while at Ludovic de Saint Sernin's debut for Jean Paul Gaultier's spring '25 haute couture, a frayed, skeletal ghost ship sailed onto the runway atop a model's head. Meanwhile, Colleen Allen is making a name for herself with her elevated take on the beanie. New Zealand designer Rory William Docherty always adds a topper to his seasonal line-up – of late a conical black felt hat that is quietly, elegantly offbeat. 'There is something nice about bookending a look with a hat,' he says. Similarly, emerging talent Amy Lawrence, who is inspired by the 1920s, has become as much known for her starched raw silk caps, tied under the chin, as her clothing. She wonders if the pandemic's dulling effect on style is still pushing us towards, 'clothing items that are slightly more expressive and theatrical'. Millinery legend Stephen Jones feels the same. 'I think in fashion now, people have had enough of garments being mere clothing and realise that actually they can be dressing up,' he says. 'I think people have remembered clothing can be an adventure as opposed to rigorous practicality.' Kay Barron, Net-A-Porter's fashion director, believes the current swing towards statement headpieces is a celebration of individuality. 'It is no surprise that the hat has returned to literally top it off,' she says. 'Hats serve as a canvas for personal expression.' While the mood boards of emerging fashion scholars and students feature Vivienne Westwood's pirate hats, John Galliano's swaggering millinery for Dior (with the aid of Jones) and Maison Margiela, more subdued headwear, say contemporary milliners, can work in the everyday. Mariela Alexandra, of New York-based Mains de Vapeur, produces fresh takes on vintage styles and in her work uses antique wood hat blocks. She suggests a hat spans style occasions beyond race day or weddings. 'What I find exciting is how hats are now being seamlessly integrated into casual, everyday outfits,' she says. 'I encourage women to experiment by trying on a variety of hats to discover which shapes and colours complement their unique features.' Jones, too, is a proponent of wearing them everywhere – just choose a style to match the occasion, he advises. 'Wear the hat that is most appropriate with what you are doing,' he says. 'For example, if you are running around town having a bad hair day, wear a beret, as you will always look chic and will have that French je ne sais quois.' Having designed countless pieces to accompany clothing, he argues for their unique power as a statement piece. 'A theatrical hat is the outfit,' he says. '[They] can be small as well as big. Sometimes a whisper is as effective as a shout.' This story is from the April issue of Vogue Australia. On sale now.
South China Morning Post
28-02-2025
- Entertainment
- South China Morning Post
Milan Fashion Week 2025: Gucci's team effort amid change, Prada's ‘raw glamour', Fendi's 100th anniversary, Marni's wild creativity and Max Mara's literary homage
Milan Fashion Week , currently under way, got off to a slow start with a transitional show from mega brand Gucci. But things picked up later in the week with a celebratory event from Fendi – which marks its 100th anniversary this year – the always agenda-setting Prada show , and an ode to artistic freedom from Marni's Francesco Risso. Named The Pink Sun, the Marni show was the result of a month-long artist residency that saw Risso work with London-based artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend in a shared studio, mixing historical influences with the energy of underground culture, according to the show notes. Here are more highlights from a week of back-to-back shows and presentations from the capital of Italian fashion. Advertisement Unfettered creativity at Marni's autumn/winter 2025 show. Photo: Handout Gucci, Italy's largest luxury brand, accounts for the lion's share of parent company Kering's revenues, which is why the turnaround of the label has been a key concern for the luxury behemoth. Earlier this month, Gucci parted ways with creative director Sabato De Sarno , who was dismissed barely two years into his tenure. Sales were down 24 per cent in the last quarter of 2024, and the brand is now under pressure to get it right, with the appointment of a creative leader who can reignite desirability and lift sales. A look from Gucci's autumn/winter 2025 collection, which was designed by the studio team. Photo: Reuters Given the situation, it wouldn't be fair to be too harsh towards the design team who worked on the autumn/winter 2025 range. While the collection was a bit derivative (the menswear especially had hints of Prada), it was a sensible effort during a time of transition. Gucci referred to this collection as 'foundational' and 'a continuum of craft, taste and culture'. It seems that the powers that be felt it made sense to go back to basics before a new creative director takes over and – hopefully – manages to ignite the comeback everyone in the industry is rooting for.
Washington Post
26-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Washington Post
Tracee Ellis Ross walks for Marni in ambitious collection during Milan Fashion Week
MILAN — Marni creative director Francesco Risso set up an impromptu jazz club and invited friends like Tracee Ellis Ross to model his latest collection during Milan Fashion Week previews on Wednesday for Fall-Winter 2025-26. The idea for the collection came during a month-long residency in London with Nigerian artists Slawn and Soldier, creating for the sake of creating. Risso took up painting again, and the collaboration produced artworks that appear on some of the pieces.
The Independent
26-02-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
Tracee Ellis Ross walks for Marni in ambitious collection during Milan Fashion Week
Marni creative director Francesco Risso set up an impromptu jazz club and invited friends like Tracee Ellis Ross to model his latest collection during Milan Fashion Week previews on Wednesday for Fall-Winter 2025-26. The idea for the collection came during a month-long residency in London with Nigerian artists Slawn and Soldier, creating for the sake of creating. Risso took up painting again, and the collaboration produced artworks that appear on some of the pieces. 'Our hands were dancing together, literally,'' Risso said backstage. Risso intends the ambitious collection with sculptural elements to be a sort of 'seed vault' for future collections. Oversized flowers were painted on suits, the long stems extending from the bias-cut jackets. A bumblebee sweater was a whimsical piece of knit sculpture. Wool coats puffed in the back, like cocoons. 'It's time for reflection,'' Risso said. 'It's time to preserve.'
Yahoo
26-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Tracee Ellis Ross walks for Marni in ambitious collection during Milan Fashion Week
MILAN (AP) — Marni creative director Francesco Risso set up an impromptu jazz club and invited friends like Tracee Ellis Ross to model his latest collection during Milan Fashion Week previews on Wednesday for Fall-Winter 2025-26. The idea for the collection came during a month-long residency in London with Nigerian artists Slawn and Soldier, creating for the sake of creating. Risso took up painting again, and the collaboration produced artworks that appear on some of the pieces. 'Our hands were dancing together, literally,'' Risso said backstage. See for yourself — The Yodel is the go-to source for daily news, entertainment and feel-good stories. By signing up, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Policy. Risso intends the ambitious collection with sculptural elements to be a sort of 'seed vault' for future collections. Oversized flowers were painted on suits, the long stems extending from the bias-cut jackets. A bumblebee sweater was a whimsical piece of knit sculpture. Wool coats puffed in the back, like cocoons. 'It's time for reflection,'' Risso said. 'It's time to preserve.'
