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Yahoo
23-05-2025
- Yahoo
Been to Barcelona? Now try Spain's lesser-known cities
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). With Spain receiving record-breaking numbers of international visitors in the past two years — up to 94 million last year — it pays to hunt out its quiet corners. And there are plenty of areas where travellers have yet to claim a stake. While major Spanish cities like Barcelona, Madrid and Seville justifiably receive millions of visitors a year, the country is packed with dozens of disarmingly beautiful and fascinating smaller centres that can get overlooked. Many of these have equally exciting gastronomy scenes, thriving arts cultures and curious historical treasures worth exploring — and you'll get to experience them with far fewer crowds. Best for: the food sceneIf Madrid's fabled cocktail of architecture, gastronomy and nightlife appeals, Salamanca in the neighbouring Castilla y León region makes a tempting alternative. Easily reached by train from Madrid in just 1.5 hours, this long-established university city reportedly has one of the highest ratios of tapas bars to people in Spain. It's also home to one of the country's most spectacular squares, the baroque Plaza Mayor, which is lined with bar-terrace tables and buzzing in the evening. Explore Salamanca's 800-year-old university, with its elaborately carved facade, and the city's two adjoined cathedrals. The oldest, Catedral Vieja, is mostly Romanesque, while the other is a later mix of gothic and renaissance style. Then dive into the world of Castilian dishes and wines, perhaps at Tapas 3.0 or Cuzco Bodega. Best for: a UNESCO-listed old townThe capital of Spain until 1561, Toledo is a popular day-trip destination from Madrid. Cáceres, on the other hand, requires a little more effort to reach and receives far fewer visitors — but the reward is its Ciudad Monumental, a hauntingly beautiful walled old town that's been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986. A three-hour train journey from Madrid into the Extremadura region immerses you in this stone-built maze whose roots date back to the Romans. Today it's best known for its noble gothic-renaissance buildings, but also retains lofty watchtowers and other relics from its time under medieval Islamic rule. This is a city with serious art credentials too: the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Helga de Alvear houses pieces by Francisco de Goya, Antoni Tàpies and Ai Weiwei. Best for: Basque bar crawlsQuieter yet equally as interesting as its extrovert sibling San Sebastián, just over an hour's drive to the north, Vitoria-Gasteiz is the Basque Country's often-overlooked capital. Though it's off the coastal path, the city is home to superb food and architecture and receives far fewer tourists. The steep, narrow streets of Vitoria-Gasteiz's medieval Old Town are lined with prize-winning pintxos bars that compete to create the most tantalising, innovative culinary creations. Elsewhere you'll find gothic cathedrals and belle époque villas as well as grand, leafy boulevards and a clutch of museums. Vitoria-Gasteiz is also one of Spain's most sustainable cities, with pedestrianised streets, eco-friendly hotels and restaurants and a 'green ring' of leafy spaces circling the city. Best for: Andalucian atmosphereWhile Seville has risen to become one of Spain's most popular city breaks, its little brother Granada remains mostly known for its UNESCO-designated Alhambra palace and fortress. But there's far more to this intimate city, which echoes Seville's Moorish monuments, fiery flamenco and terrific tapas scene, yet has its own lively twist. Stay a few days to roam the sloping Albaicín district, where locals and visitors gather on broad terraces to catch views across terracotta rooftops to the Alhambra, backed by the spectacular Sierra Nevada mountains. Just behind the Catedral de Granada, the Mercado de San Agustín has counters overflowing with fresh produce, such as jamón from Trevélez in the Alpujarras hills. In neighbouring Realejo, the historical Jewish quarter, people spill out of busy bars and restaurants like Candela, Taberna La Tana or Cisco y Tierra. Best for: galleries & beach cultureSunny Málaga has firmly put itself on Spain's flourishing art map in the last decade or so — and not just as the birthplace of Picasso. The pedestrianised historic centre rewards gallery-hopping itineraries taking in highlights such as the Museo Carmen Thyssen Málaga, crammed with Spanish art from the 19th and 20th centuries. Stroll over to the revamped Soho district to catch street art by both Malagueño and international artists, or wander through the lush Parque de Málaga to the local offshoot of the Paris-born Centre Pompidou. Nearby, Malagueta beach has great swimming off its silver-tinged sandy strand and a string of chiringuitos (beach restaurants) cooking espetos (fish skewers, traditionally made with sardines) on open-air grills. Throw in a flourishing tapas culture, a wave of stylish rooftop bars and Mercado de Atarazanas — one of southern Spain's finest markets — for a genuine rival to crowded Barcelona. Best for: Moorish architectureThe entrancing Mezquita of Córdoba deservedly bags a top spot on any Andalucia itinerary, but there are other Moorish legacies worthy of travellers' attentions. Now with a growing number of direct flights from the UK, coastal Almería has its own story to tell about this key chapter of Spain's past. Often overlooked by international visitors, the city was a major Islamic-era port, as still shown by the grand, sand-hued Alcazaba (fortress) looming above its whitewashed homes. The building dates to the 11th century and has palm-filled gardens with trickling fountains and pools reminiscent of Granada's Alhambra. Spend the rest of your time wandering through the medieval old town and squeezing into tapas bars for local specialities such asmigas (flour or breadcrumbs fried with garlic and perhaps anchovies or chorizo) or Alpujarras cheese. Also on Almería's doorstep are the peaceful, sun-toasted beaches of the Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Níjar. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).


National Geographic
23-05-2025
- National Geographic
Been to Barcelona? Now try Spain's lesser-known cities
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). With Spain receiving record-breaking numbers of international visitors in the past two years — up to 94 million last year — it pays to hunt out its quiet corners. And there are plenty of areas where travellers have yet to claim a stake. While major Spanish cities like Barcelona, Madrid and Seville justifiably receive millions of visitors a year, the country is packed with dozens of disarmingly beautiful and fascinating smaller centres that can get overlooked. Many of these have equally exciting gastronomy scenes, thriving arts cultures and curious historical treasures worth exploring — and you'll get to experience them with far fewer crowds. Swap Madrid for Salamanca Best for: the food scene If Madrid's fabled cocktail of architecture, gastronomy and nightlife appeals, Salamanca in the neighbouring Castilla y León region makes a tempting alternative. Easily reached by train from Madrid in just 1.5 hours, this long-established university city reportedly has one of the highest ratios of tapas bars to people in Spain. It's also home to one of the country's most spectacular squares, the baroque Plaza Mayor, which is lined with bar-terrace tables and buzzing in the evening. Explore Salamanca's 800-year-old university, with its elaborately carved facade, and the city's two adjoined cathedrals. The oldest, Catedral Vieja, is mostly Romanesque, while the other is a later mix of gothic and renaissance style. Then dive into the world of Castilian dishes and wines, perhaps at Tapas 3.0 or Cuzco Bodega. Swap Toledo for Cáceres Best for: a UNESCO-listed old town The capital of Spain until 1561, Toledo is a popular day-trip destination from Madrid. Cáceres, on the other hand, requires a little more effort to reach and receives far fewer visitors — but the reward is its Ciudad Monumental, a hauntingly beautiful walled old town that's been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986. A three-hour train journey from Madrid into the Extremadura region immerses you in this stone-built maze whose roots date back to the Romans. Today it's best known for its noble gothic-renaissance buildings, but also retains lofty watchtowers and other relics from its time under medieval Islamic rule. This is a city with serious art credentials too: the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Helga de Alvear houses pieces by Francisco de Goya, Antoni Tàpies and Ai Weiwei. Swap San Sebastián for Vitoria-Gasteiz Best for: Basque bar crawls Quieter yet equally as interesting as its extrovert sibling San Sebastián, just over an hour's drive to the north, Vitoria-Gasteiz is the Basque Country's often-overlooked capital. Though it's off the coastal path, the city is home to superb food and architecture and receives far fewer tourists. The steep, narrow streets of Vitoria-Gasteiz's medieval Old Town are lined with prize-winning pintxos bars that compete to create the most tantalising, innovative culinary creations. Elsewhere you'll find gothic cathedrals and belle époque villas as well as grand, leafy boulevards and a clutch of museums. Vitoria-Gasteiz is also one of Spain's most sustainable cities, with pedestrianised streets, eco-friendly hotels and restaurants and a 'green ring' of leafy spaces circling the city. The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Helga de Alvear in Cáceres houses pieces by Francisco de Goya, Antoni Tàpies and Ai Weiwei. Photograph by Museo Helga de Alvear Swap Seville for Granada Best for: Andalucian atmosphere While Seville has risen to become one of Spain's most popular city breaks, its little brother Granada remains mostly known for its UNESCO-designated Alhambra palace and fortress. But there's far more to this intimate city, which echoes Seville's Moorish monuments, fiery flamenco and terrific tapas scene, yet has its own lively twist. Stay a few days to roam the sloping Albaicín district, where locals and visitors gather on broad terraces to catch views across terracotta rooftops to the Alhambra, backed by the spectacular Sierra Nevada mountains. Just behind the Catedral de Granada, the Mercado de San Agustín has counters overflowing with fresh produce, such as jamón from Trevélez in the Alpujarras hills. In neighbouring Realejo, the historical Jewish quarter, people spill out of busy bars and restaurants like Candela, Taberna La Tana or Cisco y Tierra. Swap Barcelona for Málaga Best for: galleries & beach culture Sunny Málaga has firmly put itself on Spain's flourishing art map in the last decade or so — and not just as the birthplace of Picasso. The pedestrianised historic centre rewards gallery-hopping itineraries taking in highlights such as the Museo Carmen Thyssen Málaga, crammed with Spanish art from the 19th and 20th centuries. Stroll over to the revamped Soho district to catch street art by both Malagueño and international artists, or wander through the lush Parque de Málaga to the local offshoot of the Paris-born Centre Pompidou. Nearby, Malagueta beach has great swimming off its silver-tinged sandy strand and a string of chiringuitos (beach restaurants) cooking espetos (fish skewers, traditionally made with sardines) on open-air grills. Throw in a flourishing tapas culture, a wave of stylish rooftop bars and Mercado de Atarazanas — one of southern Spain's finest markets — for a genuine rival to crowded Barcelona. Swap Córdoba for Almería Best for: Moorish architecture The entrancing Mezquita of Córdoba deservedly bags a top spot on any Andalucia itinerary, but there are other Moorish legacies worthy of travellers' attentions. Now with a growing number of direct flights from the UK, coastal Almería has its own story to tell about this key chapter of Spain's past. Often overlooked by international visitors, the city was a major Islamic-era port, as still shown by the grand, sand-hued Alcazaba (fortress) looming above its whitewashed homes. The building dates to the 11th century and has palm-filled gardens with trickling fountains and pools reminiscent of Granada's Alhambra. Spend the rest of your time wandering through the medieval old town and squeezing into tapas bars for local specialities such asmigas (flour or breadcrumbs fried with garlic and perhaps anchovies or chorizo) or Alpujarras cheese. Also on Almería's doorstep are the peaceful, sun-toasted beaches of the Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Níjar. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).


Euronews
17-04-2025
- Politics
- Euronews
Under the hood: The true story of Spain's Nazarene capirote and the Ku Klux Klan
ADVERTISEMENT "It's the Ku Klux Klan!", say some tourists unfamiliar with Spanish Holy Week when they see the penitents accompanying processions in the streets. The elder brother of the Archconfraternity of Jesús de Medinaceli in Madrid, Miguel Ángel Izquierdo, explains to Euronews that this is a common comment every year: "You have to explain to them that it has nothing to do with anything. However, although the supremacist movement adopted a costume similar to that of the Nazarenes, the capirote, a conical form of a Christian pointed hat, predates even the founding of the United States. In Spain, the first pointed hats, which are the origin of today's capuchons, appeared in the 16th century with the Inquisition. Shame and humiliation When the Catholic Monarchs established the Holy Tribunal, an era of Catholic orthodoxy began in Castile, punishing crimes ranging from blasphemy to heresy. "During the autos de fe, the Inquisition imposed on heretics and condemned them to wear the 'sambenito', a special habit, similar to a poncho, which was a form of humiliation, a visual punishment and a public scorn. In some cases, especially with serious convictions, it was topped with a pointed capirote," historian David Botello tells Euronews. Cross burning by the Ku Klux Klan in Rumford, Virginia. Scott Perry/AP1987 The origin of the capirote "The origin of the capirote can be traced back to two sources: medieval spirituality and the Inquisition, because penitents covered themselves out of humility, so that they would not be recognised", adds Botello, author of "Don't touch my Bourbons" (No me toques los Borbones), among many other books in which he delves into the history of Spain. Some were condemned to death and presented themselves in these clothes for execution, which could be death by drowning if they repented of their sins, or they could be burned alive in a public square. Since they were people who were serving a capital sentence, they were called penitents. Painting 'Auto-da-fé of the Inquisition' by Francisco de Goya (1812-1819) in which those condemned by the Holy Inquisition appear wearing hoods Public domain image Paintings such as 'Auto de fe de la Inquisición' by Francisco de Goya, painted between 1812 and 1819, illustrate such clothing. The question is how the different confraternities adopted the same symbolism in their processions. "The confraternities took this attire and redefined it: what was a humiliation, they turned into a voluntary penance," says Botello. "The capirote became a symbol of spiritual elevation: the higher the capirote, the closer you got to God," explains the historian. Originally, in the processions, the Nazarenes were dressed more simply, but "over the centuries, the confraternities improved the design: the hood went from being a simple hood to having a structure and colours or insignia were incorporated". Despite all these changes Botello stresses that "the essence of the dress remains the same: anonymity, recollection and penitence". Why did the Ku Klux Klan adopt the penitents costume? Whatever its origin and evolution, the similarity of the uniforms chosen by the Ku Klux Klan at the end of the 19th century is evident. There are several theories on the matter, "some point to an indirect visual inspiration, maybe a KKK designer saw an illustration, a lithograph or a scene from Holy Week in Spain and thought: 'this imposes'," says Botello. That possibility coincides with a clipping from 'Opportunity' magazine, published in New York in 1927, which said: "One need only glance at it to see the similarity to the white robes and hoods worn by the Ku Klux Klan in our country. To all appearances, the American organisation copied the dress of those Christian believers," the text says. However, Botello insists that there is no conclusive proof of the origin of the supremacists' clothing. "It could also be pure coincidence: many cultures have used hoods to hide their identity, from medieval executioners to members of some sects ," he says. The hood may be imposing and scary, but ignorance is much more frightening. David Botello Historian Whether or not it is cultural appropriation is another debate. What David Botello is clear about, however, is that it is "an aesthetic deformation with radically opposite ends, as Holy Week is a living manifestation of faith, history and tradition that has been reinvented over the centuries". "To confuse a penitent with a supremacist is a disastrous mistake, which erases centuries of spirituality and collective memory", says the historian, who firmly believes that "the hood can be imposing and scary, but ignorance is much scarier".