Latest news with #Frantzén
South China Morning Post
03-04-2025
- Entertainment
- South China Morning Post
XO sauce: the international appeal of a Cantonese staple
Inside the sleek, minimalist interior of FZN by Björn Frantzén in Dubai, executive chef Torsten Vildgaard serves a small bowl of XO sauce with the main course of barbecued duck and foie gras. The sauce has deep umami flavours balanced by a caramelised sweetness and a hint of earthiness, a sigh of smoke underneath it all – heavenly when slathered on the pillowy bread that arrives alongside the duck. Advertisement It seems an unlikely condiment to come across in one of celebrity chef Björn Frantzén 's outposts, but as it turns out, XO sauce – a Cantonese pantry essential – first popped up at the three-Michelin-starred, Nordic-Asian hotspot Frantzén in Stockholm, and later at sister venue Zén in Singapore. At FZN, the 27-seater that opened last November at Atlantis The Palm, Vildgaard (who previously headed research and development at Noma in Copenhagen ) makes the XO sauce by finely chopping garlic, shallots, smoked celeriac, chanterelles, red chillies and shiitake mushrooms, then deep-frying them individually. He then adds a reduced kelp dashi to bring everything together, blending it with the spicy frying oil. Along with using it as a condiment for bread, he sometimes uses it in emulsions as an umami booster. Hamachi served with XO sauce at Restaurant Doubek, in Vienna, Austria. Photo: Restaurant Doubek 'We chose this recipe for our opening menu because it complements the main course perfectly,' says Vildgaard. 'Also, it's vegetarian, making it a great option that most guests can enjoy. I'm passionate about dishes that highlight the plant kingdom.' FZN is just one of an increasing number of top restaurants around the world making their own versions of Hong Kong's beloved XO sauce. Although its exact origins remain obscure, XO sauce was created in the 1980s , many believe by an unnamed chef at Spring Moon, at The Peninsula hotel in Hong Kong. The chef named it 'XO chilli sauce', the term 'XO' usually used to describe 'extra old' Cognac having come to represent something considered the best of the best in 80s Hong Kong. The sauce is, indeed, traditionally made with luxury ingredients, such as conpoy (dried scallop), dried shrimp and Jinhua ham from Zhejiang province. Whether a sauce can be classified as XO without these three key ingredients is up for debate. Nevertheless, chefs around the world are claiming to have been inspired by what is surely one of Hong Kong's most influential gastronomic exports. Chefs are experimenting with Chinese cooking techniques and ingredients in new ways, often fusing them with other cuisines to create unique dishes that appeal to a broader audience Torsten Vildgaard However, it's not just XO sauce that Vildgaard is seeing growing interest in. 'Chinese food is gaining more traction outside Asia, especially among chefs,' he says. 'Over the past few years, there's been a surge of interest in regional Chinese cuisines. Chefs are experimenting with Chinese cooking techniques and ingredients in new ways, often fusing them with other cuisines to create unique dishes that appeal to a broader audience.'
FACT
18-02-2025
- Entertainment
- FACT
Studio Frantzén Review: A Neo-Nordic surprise at Atlantis, The Palm
Björn Frantzén is a name that resonates with culinary gravitas, a whisper of Nordic brilliance that has conquered palates from Stockholm to Singapore. Now, the acclaimed chef has opened a restaurant in Dubai, bringing his lauded Studio Frantzén concept to the space previously occupied by Nobu on the ground floor of Atlantis, The Palm. The transformation from a dark and dingy dining room into a vibrant Scandi-chic space is impressive. Studio Frantzén boasts a design ethos that mirrors its culinary philosophy: luxurious yet restrained. A striking bear sculpture at the entrance sets the tone for a restaurant that forgoes Scandinavian chic in favour of stylish booths, a dramatic atrium, warm woods, and a chandelier featuring upturned candles. If you love to watch the chefs at work, there are 20 front-row seats by the kitchen counter. Plus, a private dining room for 14 guests. Ikea, this is not. Frantzén's culinary philosophy, honed through years at the helm of MICHELIN-starred establishments, celebrates seasonal ingredients, meticulous technique, and a harmonious blend of Nordic and Asian influences. The bar offers a specially curated Nordic cocktail menu, which is designed to complement the dining experience. As does the Björn's curated playlist, which blasts tracks from Guns N' Roses, Prince and The Smiths. Studio Frantzén's combination of neo-Nordic and Asian influences comes to the fore with the Hamachi Crudo (AED 105), which was a revelation. Here, silky yellowtail is adorned with delicate slivers of radish, while ume kosho (a fermented citrus-chilli paste) introduces a measured heat that lingers on the palate. The fermented strawberry lends a whisper of sweetness, ensuring that every bite oscillates between freshness and umami. Next came the Artichoke (AED 95), a dish that champions seasonality, where grilled green asparagus provides a verdant counterpoint to the earthy artichoke, while pea miso adds a layer of savoury depth. The crunch of pistachios offers textural intrigue, elevating the dish beyond its humble components. The Wagyu Nigiri (AED 65) is a study in contrasts. The A5 Wagyu, its richness tamed by the earthy notes of mushroom miso, rests atop seasoned rice. The addition of enoki mushrooms provides a delicate crunch, adding another dimension to a bite that feels both decadent and disciplined. A lighter interlude followed with the Salmon Tataki Salad (AED 185). The fish, kissed by the flame, its heart still beautifully rare, retains its natural silkiness, while the supporting elements—avocado, cabbage salad, spring onion, and ponzu—add layers of texture and brightness. It's a dish that feels light, yet profoundly satisfying. Inspired by Frantzén's renowned open-flame kitchen in Stockholm, the main courses at Studio Frantzén Dubai celebrate dishes cooked 'from the fireplace'. The Japanese Saroma A5 Wagyu beef (AED 345) boasts an impressive marbling and a sublime texture. The accompanying oxtail ponzu provides a rich, savoury depth and is paired perfectly with a side of Japanese-seasoned French fries (AED 45) topped with Parmesan cheese. Studio Frantzén's walk-in Candy Room offers an interactive dessert experience, where guests enter a sweet-shop-of-sorts stacked with jars of Scandinavian confectionary, homemade ice cream and gleaming glass counters stocked with sweet treats ranging from Chilled Charentais Melon to Citrus Lemon Thyme Pavlova. We succumbed to the allure of the Chamomile & Ghaf Honey Cheesecake (AED 65). The delicate floral notes of chamomile infused the creamy cheesecake, while the local ghaf honey added a touch of sweetness. The buckwheat crumble provided a tempting texture, while the yuzu curd added a burst of citrus that cut through the richness of the dessert. It's a thoughtful, nuanced finale to a meal where every dish is a careful study of contrast and balance. Björn Frantzén is known for his restaurants across the world, including the three MICHELIN-starred Frantzén in Stockholm and the three MICHELIN-starred Zén in Singapore. Now, the former footballer turned chef has joined the culinary roster at Atlantis, The Palm, alongside heavy hitters such as Gordon Ramsay, Heston Blumenthal, and Nobu Matsuhisa. Service is prompt and genial, albeit slow at times. However, the experience feels both intimate and indulgent resulting in a dazzling Dubai debut for the champion chef. Hej, Studio Frantzén. GO: Visit for more information.
