02-05-2025
Portugal luxury river cruise: APT MS Estrela review
The Sun Deck and pool … the biggest on the Douro.
With just 114 passengers, Estrela never feels crowded; the ship's public spaces foster a sense of ease and relaxation. Getting around is a breeze, with the four decks connected by one main staircase and (except for the top deck) an elevator. The Sun Deck has one of the largest swimming pools on the Douro, with a barbecue, sun lounges and alfresco tables. The absence of pool towels is a surprising oversight.
One deck below, the True North lounge and bar is the place to gather for afternoon tea, pre-dinner cocktails, 'port talks' and evening entertainment. Down one more level to Constellations restaurant, which has a casual, yet elegant feel with lots of space and light. Seating configurations offer enough options, so no one need play musical chairs. The suite
French Balcony Suite.
The relaxed style continues across the 57 staterooms and suites, which range from Window Staterooms (13.4-15.6 square metres), French Balcony Suites (14.6-18 square metres) and two Owner's Suites (23.2 square metres). I'm on level three in a French Balcony Suite, so named for the electric slide-down window that opens to a 'French-style' balcony. It's a bit of a stretch to call it a balcony, but by lowering the expansive window halfway down it lends a delightful indoor/outdoor feel to the whole cabin. A TV, two small armchairs, safe, mini-fridge and personal climate control complete the picture. A thoughtful addition is the wall of wooden hooks near the cabin door for hanging jackets, hats, handbags and lanyards. Having only one bedside table instead of the standard two is a missed detail. The food
Lunches and dinners are a stand-out, featuring four-course menus.
Port wines, olive oils, zesty-citrus, market-fresh fish – the best of the Douro Valley is within plucking distance for chef Andrei Tirca. Meals are a mix of Portuguese, Mediterranean and international flavours, plus an 'always available' selection of favourites. There's an early-riser or late-riser breakfast in the lounge or a full buffet in Constellations restaurant.
Lunches and dinners are a stand-out, featuring four-course menus with highlights such as pan-seared grouper with caviar beurre blanc or chicken ballotine with ruby port wine jus. Don't fancy a formal midday meal? There's always a buffet option or a light lunch in the lounge. Each menu is paired with recommended wines from the Douro region, enhancing the dining experience while offering an introduction to the local vineyards and grape varietals. Tip: if you're not normally a fan of port, try a portico tonico – Portugal's answer to the G&T, a refreshing blend of dry white port served with tonic water, plenty of ice and garnished with lemon. Best served while sailing. Wellness
Let's face it, a cruise through one of the world's premier wine regions is more about indulging in the food and wine than wellness. The pool invites a token swim, but it's better suited for socialising than getting in a workout. For those inclined, there's a three-hole putting green. Daily excursions will keep your step count up. Entertainment
Days fill easily with excursions or tailored sightseeing through the Freedom of Choice experiences. During stretches of sailing there's often a fun quiz, documentary screening or lecture about Portuguese history in the main lounge. Evening entertainment offers anything from a traditional harp performance to a Portuguese folk band to a disco night. A highlight of the trip is an exclusive Signature Experience at Porto's stunning Palacio da Bolsa featuring a guided tour, a cocktail reception and traditional Fado performance in the Arabian Hall.
MS Estrela cruising the Douro River in Portugal.
Only six cruises in, this new ship's crew already work together like a well-oiled team. Service is not only efficient, smooth and professional, but marked by a genuine warmth and friendliness that makes every guest feel valued. Nothing is too much trouble. The verdict
The MS Estrela, purpose-built for the Douro River, offers an intimate cruise experience with a fresh, contemporary design and personalised attention. If you're looking for all-inclusive luxury on one of Europe's lesser-visited rivers this is the cruise for you.
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APT's nine-day Douro Delights tour from Madrid to Porto (also operates in reverse) costs from $7295 a person April-September (flights not included). The itinerary is inclusive of one night's land accommodation and seven nights onboard the MS Estrela. All meals, a wide range of onboard beverages, Wi-Fi, comprehensive sightseeing tours, Freedom of Choice experiences and Signature Experiences are all included. Rating out of five
★★★★
