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Exploring Marseille, France: Where to eat, what to see, where to stay
Marseille is like a siren's song; for thousands of years, sailors and vagabonds have been drawn in and hooked by its rebellious undercurrent. The glimmering Mediterranean tempts beachgoers to cross sharp rocks on tiptoe, jump into the sea and laugh in swirling currents. Motorcycles tear down the coast. Marseille is a port city, constantly in motion; immigration waves from North Africa, Italy and Corsica have shaped much of its modern cultural fabric, and now young people from cities across Europe, lured by a less expensive cost of living and easy access to nature, are coming in droves. More flight routes are opening. Trendy restaurants with talented chefs at the helm are multiplying. Transportation infrastructure is expanding, cultural programs are evolving, and landmarks, such as the Notre-Dame de la Garde, will soon shed their scaffolding to reveal newly restored facades. But the city's wild streak isn't going anywhere. C'est Marseille, bébé — it's Marseille, baby.
FRIDAY
4pm | Wander through a cultural maze
Start at the Friche la Belle de Mai, a former tobacco factory spread across roughly 500,000 sq ft. Now, it's like a cultural centre on steroids. Art exhibitions. Theatre. Farmers' market. Industrial buildings are patchworked with a skatepark, community garden and basketball court. The walls are drenched in street art and inside, lightbulbs hang from wires tied in knots, dangling over the heads of people ordering coffees and beers. Trains going into and out of the city's main station rattle past its rooftop playground and restaurant.
6.30pm | Sip natural wine under candlelight
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Walk to the quiet Rue Leon Bourgeois to Ivresse La Cave, a wine bar behind industrial glass doors. On a recent visit, the two owners — Nikolaj Tur and Max Tuckwell — danced behind the bar to Soft Cell's Tainted Love as they popped bottles of natural wine, largely from Central and Eastern Europe. Tuckwell, who previously worked at the trendy Fulgurances in Paris, is behind the vegetable-forward small plates that change weekly, with many of the ingredients sourced from the Epicerie Paysanne de Quartier, a grocer across the street. There could be lion's mane mushrooms in miso, or grated cucumber with soy sauce and buckwheat seeds; grazing options include Sicilian green olives and Cetara anchovies (prices range from €4 (US$4.60; S$5.90) to €18 for food, and €5 to €8 for a glass of wine). Walk-ins only.
8pm | Feast behind closed doors
Stroll over to Atelier Renata, in a residential building where the glowing red buzzer does not lead to an apartment. At 8pm, a woman will lead you through a dark corridor into a former atelier, which has been transformed into an Italian restaurant: One seating, one room, open kitchen, no menu. Candelabras and old family photos sit atop antique shelving and a piano. It feels like being in your grandmother's living room — if your grandma was the coolest person on Earth. Atelier Renata is run by the chef Erika Blu, who named the restaurant after her own grandmother. There are starters like stracciatella soup with truffles in the winter, or tuna crudo with citrus caviar in the summer. And pasta is almost always part of the deal; it could be a white ragu with tripe that may convert even the biggest skeptic. Dinner is €60, excluding drinks. Reservations essential.
WHERE TO STAY
The four-star Les Bords de Mer is perched above the Catalans beach with sea views that stretch for miles. Its 19 rooms all face the water, and have floor-to-ceiling glass windows or balconies. This is a trendy place; lunches on its rooftop terrace can book up weeks in advance. Rooms start at €190 euros, or around US$215, but prices rise to €400 euros and above on weekends in the summer.
Two glowing lanterns frame the entryway of the Hôtel Azur, a 20-room hotel in the central Reformes neighborhood, which is lively but calmer than the nearby Cours Julien. It has been in the same family for four generations; a poster of Marcel Pagnol's 1931 film 'Marius,' set in Marseilles, hangs in the lobby, which gives way to an outdoor terrace. Rooms start at roughly €85, but prices vary depending on demand and season.
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SATURDAY
9am | Discover the belly of Marseille
Indulge in a flaky, slightly sweet chicken pastilla (€3) from the Boulangerie O'Coin Gourmand Pains Traditionnel et Gourmandises before heading for a cafe creme (€2) at the Bar de l'Est, a bare-bones, decades-old cafe on the Marche de Noailles. Sit facing outward toward the market, on the terrace, and it'll become obvious why this neighbourhood is known as the 'belly of Marseille.' Shoppers drag pushcarts through dozens of fruit and vegetable stalls as vendors shout prices on loop, in a rhythm. Trolleys rattle down jagged pavement, and trucks drop off produce while residents linger to chat. There are butchers, fishmongers, North African pastry shops and the local establishment Pizza Charly, which has been around since 1962 and is open from 9am, all within earshot.
10am | Shop through three waves of change
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Cut across the Rue Longue-des-Capucins toward the Rue d'Aubagne, a central artery of Marseille teeming with vendors and the scent of simmering spices in the air. The Maison Empereur, the oldest hardware store in France, has been around since 1827. Back then, the now working-class neighbourhood was bourgeois; Le Pere Blaize, the sixth-generation herbalist's shop, hails from that era. Then stroll to Jiji La Palme d'Or, which has Berber rugs, baskets and lampshades; North Africans immigrated to Marseille en masse in the 1960s. Now, the Epicerie l ' Ideal, which sells things like salt-preserved lemons (€12) and rose harissa (€18), is part of the neighbourhood's new wave of vendors, along with Joli Rouge, a thoughtfully curated antique and vintage store.
12pm | Try Comorian food for lunch
Wander over to Douceur Piquante, a Comorian restaurant on a quiet, sunny street lined with trees. The chef Nadjatie Bacar smiles and hums from its open kitchen. The walls, once mint green, are now canary yellow; the restaurant changes the colour at least every season. Everything here feels thoughtful, from the fish-tailed water glasses to the bluebell flowers and colourful kale in wine bottles. The menu is short and changes frequently, sometimes with just four items scribbled on a chalkboard. There could be madaba, a Comorian stew made with beef, cassava leaves and coconut milk, or whole-grilled fish with seasonal vegetables (prices vary, but tend to range between €11 and €16). Reservations recommended.
2.30pm | Stroll to a 17th century fortress
Walk along the Quai de Rive Neuve past thousands of sailboat masts, and Fort St.-Nicolas, one of the two fortresses that mirror each other across the harbour, will appear. Louis XIV ordered its construction in the 17th century, not just to defend against seaborne invasions, but with cannons pointed inward, toward Marseille, as a warning to any residents considering a revolt. Since then, it had almost always been closed to the public — until spring 2024. Now, on some nights, the fort — also known as the Citadelle de Marseille — effectively transforms into a nightclub with techno music against the backdrop of old walls glowing pink; its summer programme includes sculpture workshops, concerts and escape games for kids (€10 euros, €15 for adults). Picnics on the grounds are encouraged year-round, or stop for a glass of homemade lemonade (€4) or wine (€4.50) at La Guinguette du Fort, its outdoor snack bar with panoramic views of the port. Free entry to the complex, with prices varying by activity.
5pm | Gaze at Marseille from above
Climb the near-vertical hill or take the bus (€1.70) to the Notre-Dame de la Garde, the basilica topped with its golden Madonna holding a baby Jesus in her arms. Its wraparound terrace opens onto the Mediterranean and a collage of Provençal rooftops, framed by villas carved into surrounding hillsides. From here, the Fort St Nicolas looks like a sandcastle. Inside, the ceiling is illuminated in an intricate mosaic; and, in the altar area, a mosaic depicts a sailboat crashing into waves. Throughout the church, boats hang from strings overhead, dangling over pews; nautical paintings and tattered rescue buoys are mounted on the walls. These were offerings from sailors looking for protection against rough seas. Much of the structure is currently being restored; it's set to shed its scaffolding by the end of the year. Free entry.
7pm | Dine on pizza
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Time spent in Marseille without eating pizza would be sacrilege. It's the unofficial food of the city, and it's everywhere — sidewalk stalls, restaurants and a unionised network of trucks. Stroll about 10 minutes down the hill to Pizzeria La Bonne Mere. The owners' great-great grandparents were part of the wave of Italian immigrants that brought pizza to the city in the early 20th century; now, the pies are a combination of the Neapolitan, Roman and Marseillais styles. The anchovy pie (€14 ), a local specialty, is the real star. Marinated anchovies are draped across a generous dose of bright, garlicky tomato sauce. Homemade pesto ground with a mortar and pestle is drizzled on top with Taggiasca olives. Reservations recommended.
9pm | Bar hop in the Cours Julien
Take a cab to the Cours Julien, the North Star of Marseille nightlife. Bass ricochets off buildings as crowds move through a maze of punk clubs, bars and restaurants where delicate flowers are used as garnish. Planete Livre Marseille la Passerelle is a loud, unpretentious bar with an extensive wine selection (€3 per glass). At Labo'n Heure, a cocktail bar with backlit bottles of Cihuatan rum and kelp-infused gin, the server greets patrons as 'mes amies' (cocktails between €7 and €16). But all roads eventually lead to Le Champ de Mars, a Marseille institution that has been around for more than 100 years. Don't expect fine wines here — this is a place to let loose. Take a shot of tequila (€2.50), dance and play foosball under warm, colourful light.
SUNDAY
10am | Relax by the sea
Pick up a cappuccino (€3.80) and homemade pastries from Boujou Coffee, a modern, airy coffeeshop in the seaside Endoume neighbourhood, and head around the corner down the Traverse de la Cascade. Hang the last left and take the stairs down to the rocks. Then, curve around the bend opening onto the Anse de la Fausse Monnaie, the cove under a viaduct dipping into clear turquoise water, and find a spot to laze. This is a place of mystery; its name translates into Counterfeit Money Cove, with competing rumours surrounding its origins. One legend says workers found fake coins during excavations on the site; others hold whispers of kings, assassinations and shady land ownership. Now, drama comes in the form of scenery; swimmers emerge from the sea like mermaids to sun on the rocks while seagulls look like paper airplanes being carried through the sky.
12pm | Eat bouillabaisse in a fishing port
Walk roughly 15 minutes northwest along the coast toward the Vallon des Auffes, the port marked by a rusty archway bearing its name over a staircase. It will give way to a rainbow of cabanas scattered throughout the hillside, and boats floating under a vaulted bridge. Fishermen sit on the harbour on stools, trimming ropes with knives; nets are draped over crates like tulle veils spilling onto the ground. This is against the backdrop of Chez Fonfon, the 73-year-old restaurant with glass windows overlooking the harbor. The bouillabaisse here is not so much a meal as a procession of broth, toast, sauces and fish (€65 per person). The garlicky rouille is strong enough to knock you out and piles of fish glisten, tinted amber from saffron threads. Reservations recommended.
