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Korea Herald
6 days ago
- Korea Herald
Everest in five days: British team's speed climb triggers Nepal proble
KATHMANDU, Nepal (Kathmandu Post/ANN) — Four former British special forces soldiers have set a startling new precedent on Mount Everest, reaching the summit in under five days without the traditional acclimatisation process. Their rapid ascent of the planet's tallest peak has drawn sharp scrutiny from Nepali authorities, not for the climb itself, but for the controversial use of xenon gas prior to arrival in Nepal. The team, comprising Maj. Garth Miller, Col. Alistair Scott Carns, Anthony James Stazicker and Kevin Francis Godlington, summited the world's highest peak at approximately 7:15 a.m. on Wednesday. Their journey began in London on the afternoon of May 16, with the climbers arriving at Everest Base Camp the following day. By 10:30 p.m. on May 20, they had begun their final summit push. Back home, the team had trained in hypoxic tents and followed a rigorous high-altitude conditioning regime. But what has provoked the current controversy is their reported inhalation of xenon gas, administered two weeks before departure in Europe, intended to reduce the risk of altitude sickness. Himal Gautam, director of the Department of Tourism, who oversees mountaineering expeditions, said the department was not informed of the gas use. "We have launched an investigation into the matter," he said, noting that all climbers and operators must declare the equipment, medications, and substances used during expeditions. Traditionally, climbers take more than a month to summit Everest. They begin their trek in early April and complete multiple rotations between Everest Base Camp and higher camps to acclimatize. These rotations are vital for adapting to the thinning air at high altitudes and skipping them is considered risky. By contrast, the British team completed the entire climb in just five days — a feat that would have been unimaginable in previous decades. While their speed has captivated parts of the global mountaineering community, it has triggered a heated debate in Nepal about safety, ethics and the future of high-altitude climbing. The expedition was organized by the Austria-based Furtenbach Adventures, whose founder, Lukas Furtenbach, insists the team followed all rules. He confirmed that the xenon treatment was administered in Germany and emphasized that only standard supplemental oxygen was used on the mountain. "What happens outside Nepal should not be under the purview of the Nepal government," he said. He defended xenon's use as a modern, medically supervised intervention to prevent altitude sickness and suggested it could make Himalayan expeditions safer. "Our company has a long-standing reputation for safety," Furtenbach said, expressing confidence that the investigation would find no wrongdoing. He also pointed to potential environmental benefits. "Shorter expeditions mean less garbage, lower carbon emissions, and reduced human waste in the fragile alpine ecosystem," he argued. Despite the abbreviated climb, Furtenbach claimed his team employed about 120 local workers and paid them competitively, demonstrating, in his view, that sustainability and economic benefit could go hand in hand. Yet not all stakeholders are convinced. Dambar Parajuli, president of the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal, warned that widespread adoption of such short-duration climbs could upend the economic model on which the Everest industry depends. "Traditional expeditions employ sherpas, porters, guides, and kitchen staff for weeks, sometimes months," he said. "If climbers finish their journey in days, the ripple effect on local employment will be devastating." He urged the government to consider the broader implications of this shift and to ensure that new policies uphold the livelihoods of communities that depend on the Everest economy. Xenon's use further complicates matters. In 2014, the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) banned the gas for athletes, citing its potential to enhance performance by stimulating the production of erythropoietin (EPO). This hormone boosts red blood cell production. However, mountaineering does not fall under WADA's purview, and there is no ban on its use for non-competitive climbers. In January, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) released a statement on xenon, concluding that it offers no proven performance benefit for altitude climbing. "Although a single dose may cause a short-term spike in EPO levels, there is no evidence that this translates into increased red blood cell count or improved performance," the UIAA said. It emphasized that acclimatisation is a complex physiological process that a single intervention cannot hack. Moreover, the UIAA warned that xenon is a potent anaesthetic, not widely approved for medical use, and carries health risks. "In an unmonitored environment like Everest, side effects such as impaired brain function or respiratory distress could be fatal," the statement said. One study cited by the UIAA reported significant sedation even at doses recommended for mountaineering, posing a potentially serious risk in high-altitude zones where alertness can mean the difference between life and death. Still, Furtenbach dismissed these concerns. He said his company followed ethical and medical guidelines and remained open to cooperation with Nepali authorities. "We are transparent and willing to share our expertise with the government. But there needs to be a better understanding of modern medical science," he said. The Everest "death zone," above 8,000 meters, is one of the most hostile environments on Earth. Oxygen is scarce; even seasoned climbers risk pulmonary or cerebral edema, frostbite, and exhaustion. That such terrain could be tackled in mere days through science and training challenges deeply held beliefs about human endurance and the ethics of high-altitude mountaineering. As Nepal's investigation proceeds, officials face a new dilemma: how to regulate innovation without sacrificing safety, fairness, or the economic sustainability of Everest expeditions.
The Sun
23-05-2025
- Sport
- The Sun
Veterans who completed record-breaking Everest ascent reveal they battled an avalanche and deadly diarrhoea
FOUR veterans who smashed the world record for the fastest round-trip ascent of Everest have revealed how close they came to death. Veterans minister and former Royal Marine Al Carns, 45, and three ex- elite forces pals went from London to the summit and back in a week. 3 3 But they were hit by an avalanche, ran out of oxygen and one of the team suffered potentially fatal diarrhoea in the mountain 's ' death zone ', more than 26,000ft above sea level. Team leader Garth Miller, 51, an ex-Gurkha and elite forces officer, hailed their success as 'a triumph of courage and teamwork'. They trekked past newly dead bodies and saw rescuers carrying a corpse. On their final ascent gusts of wind sent temperatures plunging to minus 35C. They endured an agonising 45-minute halt while they convinced their Sherpa support team to continue. Miller, now a long-haul pilot, said: 'That was the make-or-break moment. ' Our success hinged on keeping the Sherpa team on side. Without them it was unsafe to continue. 'We had the strongest Sherpa team on the mountain. "They were absolutely amazing, but three had already decided to descend because of the extreme weather conditions. 'Pasang, our lead Sherpa with six Everest summits under his belt, was keen for us to retreat and try for the summit the next day.' Britain's Toughest MP: Everest Seven-Day Challenge Winds on the exposed South East Ridge were gusting at well over 40mph. Miller said: 'It was at the edge of our risk tolerance but we felt it was safe to continue. "With our Sherpa team reduced, our safety net was gone. We managed to persuade them to continue for one more hour. 'I knew if we could do that, the sun would come up, it would warm our bones, and everything would feel better. "In that time we could reach the South Summit, and from there we'd see the summit — making success almost inevitable.' Most expeditions take 70 days to reach the 29,030ft summit. But Carns, Miller, Kevin Godlington, 49, and Anthony Stazicker, 41, used xenon gas to pre-acclimatise to thin air — saving weeks. 3
News18
23-05-2025
- Health
- News18
Xenon Helps Four British Men Scale Mount Everest. Why Has It Caused Controversy?
Last Updated: The group, all former British special forces members, became the first climbers to use xenon gas to scale the world's highest mountain. Climbing Mount Everest has always been seen as a test of endurance, patience and physical strength. But four British climbers recently made headlines for achieving the feat in just a few days using a gas that is not commonly associated with mountaineering. The group, all former British special forces members, became the first climbers to use xenon gas to scale the world's highest mountain. The climbers included Alastair Carns, a parliament member and minister for veterans at the Defense Ministry along with Garth Miller, Anthony Stazicker and Kev Godlington. Their expedition, organised by Austria-based Furtenbach Adventures, reached the 8,848-metre summit in less than five days after leaving London. While their achievement is notable, their use of xenon gas has stirred debate in the mountaineering community and triggered an official investigation in Nepal. What Is Xenon Gas? Xenon is a colourless and odourless gas that is over four and a half times heavier than air. It is found in tiny amounts in the Earth's atmosphere and is known for its use in medicine, especially as an anaesthetic. The gas is also used in many other areas. According to CK Supply, it's found in projector and cinema lamps, camera flashes, car headlights, CT scans, satellites, deep space missions, nuclear energy and metallurgy. Lukas Furtenbach, head of Furtenbach Adventures, told Reuters, 'Xenon improves acclimatisation and protects the body from altitude sickness and the effects from the hypoxic environment." How Did The Climbers Use It? The four British climbers inhaled xenon gas in Germany before beginning their expedition. They also trained at home using special tents that mimic high-altitude conditions. This pre-acclimatisation helped them avoid spending weeks on Everest adjusting to the low oxygen levels which is typically required. During their actual climb, they still used supplemental oxygen like most mountaineers. Furtenbach said the shorter expedition also helped reduce waste on the mountain. 'Less garbage, less resources, less human waste in this sensitive environment," he told Reuters. Why Is The Use of Xenon Drawing Attention? Nepal has started an investigation into the use of xenon gas by four British army veterans who recently climbed Mount Everest, according to The Kathmandu Post. In a statement, Nepal's Department of Tourism said it had taken note of the media reports about the climbers' achievement. 'We are currently engaging with the expedition team leaders, members, and the associated agencies to gather detailed information and conduct a thorough study and analysis of this matter," it said. What Are Experts Saying? Peter Hackett, a mountaineering physician, told The Washington Post that xenon can temporarily increase erythropoietin (EPO), a hormone that stimulates red blood cell production. 'It did not increase red blood cells and it did not increase their exercise performance" in a study conducted on athletes, he said. Dr Andrew Peacock, an altitude medicine expert at the University of Glasgow, also shared a similar view with BBC, saying, 'Increase in erythropoietin does nothing on its own. The question in this case is, does it really stimulate production of red blood cells in such a short period?" The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) also weighed in. 'According to current literature, there is no evidence that breathing in xenon improves performance in the mountains, and inappropriate use can be dangerous. Although a single inhalation of xenon can measurably increase the release of erythropoietin, this increase is not sustained over four weeks' use, nor is it associated with any changes in red blood cells. According to the literature, the effects on performance are unclear and probably non-existent," it said as quoted by BBC. Ethical Concerns The use of xenon isn't only raising health concerns, it has also started a debate about ethics and fairness in mountaineering. According to Reuters, American climber Adrian Ballinger called the method a 'stunt" and said, 'It's never seemed like the type of experience we want to provide." He added that using xenon makes the climb feel more like 'mountain tourism" than real mountaineering. Ballinger also told the Washington Post, 'It is a banned substance by all professional sporting organisations, and even though [mountain climbing] is not managed by a sporting organisation, it's always been a goal of climbers to follow best practices of not doping. All that combined makes it feel, I guess, pretty icky. People should be able to climb how they want to, but it isn't mountain climbing; it's mountain tourism." Damber Parajuli, president of the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal, told the BBC that shortcuts like this could damage the credibility of summit certificates and hurt the trekking industry. First Published:
Straits Times
23-05-2025
- Straits Times
Everest in five days: British team's speed climb triggers probe by Nepali authorities
The team's rapid ascent has drawn sharp scrutiny from Nepali authorities for the controversial use of xenon gas prior to their arrival. PHOTO: AFP KATHMANDU - Four former British special forces soldiers have set a startling new precedent on Mount Everest, reaching the summit in under five days without the traditional acclimatisation process. Their rapid ascent of the planet's tallest peak has drawn sharp scrutiny from Nepali authorities, not for the climb itself, but for the controversial use of xenon gas prior to their arrival in Nepal. The team, comprising Major Garth Miller, Colonel Alistair Scott Carns, Mr Anthony James Stazicker, and Mr Kevin Francis Godlington, summited the world's highest peak at approximately 7.15am (9.30am Singapore time) on May 21. Their journey began in London on the afternoon of May 16, with the climbers arriving at Everest Base Camp the following day. By 10.30pm on May 20, they had begun their final summit push. Back home, the team had trained in hypoxic tents and followed a rigorous high-altitude conditioning regime. But what has provoked the current controversy is their reported inhalation of xenon gas, administered two weeks before departure in Europe, intended to reduce the risk of altitude sickness. Mr Himal Gautam, director of the Department of Tourism, who oversees mountaineering expeditions, said the department was not informed of the gas use. 'We have launched an investigation into the matter,' he said, noting that all climbers and operators must declare the equipment, medications, and substances used during expeditions. Traditionally, climbers take more than a month to summit Everest. They begin their trek in early April and complete multiple rotations between Everest Base Camp and higher camps to acclimatise. These rotations are vital for adapting to the thinning air at high altitudes, and skipping them is considered risky. By contrast, the British team completed the entire climb in just five days - a feat that would have been unimaginable in previous decades. While their speed has captivated parts of the global mountaineering community, it has triggered a heated debate in Nepal about safety, ethics, and the future of high-altitude climbing. The expedition was organised by the Austria-based Furtenbach Adventures, whose founder, Mr Lukas Furtenbach, insists the team followed all rules. He confirmed that the xenon treatment was administered in Germany and emphasised that only standard supplemental oxygen was used on the mountain. 'What happens outside Nepal should not be under the purview of the Nepal government,' he said. He defended xenon's use as a modern, medically supervised intervention to prevent altitude sickness and suggested it could make Himalayan expeditions safer. 'Our company has a long-standing reputation for safety,' Mr Furtenbach said, expressing confidence that the investigation would find no wrongdoing. He also pointed to potential environmental benefits. 'Shorter expeditions mean less garbage, lower carbon emissions, and reduced human waste in the fragile alpine ecosystem,' he argued. Despite the abbreviated climb, Mr Furtenbach claimed his team employed about 120 local workers and paid them competitively, demonstrating, in his view, that sustainability and economic benefit could go hand in hand. Yet not all stakeholders are convinced. Mr Dambar Parajuli, president of the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal, warned that widespread adoption of such short-duration climbs could upend the economic model on which the Everest industry depends. 'Traditional expeditions employ sherpas, porters, guides, and kitchen staff for weeks, sometimes months,' he said. 'If climbers finish their journey in days, the ripple effect on local employment will be devastating.' He urged the government to consider the broader implications of this shift and to ensure that new policies uphold the livelihoods of communities that depend on the Everest economy. Xenon's use further complicates matters. In 2014, the World Anti-Doping Agency (Wada) banned the gas for athletes, citing its potential to enhance performance by stimulating the production of erythropoietin (Epo). This hormone boosts red blood cell production. However, mountaineering does not fall under Wada's purview, and there is no ban on its use for non-competitive climbers. In January, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) released a statement on xenon, concluding that it offers no proven performance benefit for altitude climbing. 'Although a single dose may cause a short-term spike in Epo levels, there is no evidence that this translates into increased red blood cell count or improved performance,' the UIAA said. It emphasised that acclimatisation is a complex physiological process that a single intervention cannot hack. Moreover, the UIAA warned that xenon is a potent anaesthetic, not widely approved for medical use, and carries health risks. 'In an unmonitored environment like Everest, side effects such as impaired brain function or respiratory distress could be fatal,' the statement said. One study cited by the UIAA reported significant sedation even at doses recommended for mountaineering, posing a potentially serious risk in high-altitude zones where alertness can mean the difference between life and death. Still, Mr Furtenbach dismissed these concerns. He said his company followed ethical and medical guidelines and remained open to cooperation with Nepali authorities. 'We are transparent and willing to share our expertise with the government. But there needs to be a better understanding of modern medical science,' he said. The Everest 'death zone,' above 8,000m, is one of the most hostile environments on Earth. Oxygen is scarce; even seasoned climbers risk pulmonary or cerebral oedema, frostbite, and exhaustion. That such terrain could be tackled in mere days through science and training challenges deeply held beliefs about human endurance and the ethics of high-altitude mountaineering. As Nepal's investigation proceeds, officials face a new dilemma: how to regulate innovation without sacrificing safety, fairness, or the economic sustainability of Everest expeditions. KATHMANDU POST/ ASIA NEWS NETWORK Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.
Washington Post
22-05-2025
- Washington Post
Everest climbers head home on last leg of seven-day mission
At last, the four exhausted British men were able to exhale and begin to take stock of their accomplishment as they awaited their flight from Kathmandu, where they'd just climbed Mount Everest. Door to door from their homes in England, the entire trip will have taken just under seven days. Al Carns, Garth Miller, Kevin Godlington and Anthony 'Staz' Stazicker, Special Forces veterans who left London on the afternoon of May 16, reached the 29,032-foot summit Wednesday morning (Nepal time) along with five sherpas and a cameraman, cutting short the usual climbing time from weeks to days after acclimatizing for months at home by sleeping in hypoxic tents. They also received an unusual treatment of xenon gas, doing the climb under the direction of Lukas Furtenbach, who has been using different methods over the years to shorten the time spent on Everest.
