14 hours ago
Journalist Achieves Many Travelers' Goal: Step Foot In All 50 States
Two travelers met, by chance, in Medora, North Dakota last month and learned they had the same goal: visit all 50 states. Gary Stoller
Roger pulled back a door handle in the shape of a long-barreled revolver and strode last month into the Little Missouri Saloon in Medora, a tiny western North Dakota city with less than 200 residents that's the gateway to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. He grabbed a seat next to me at the bar, said he had just driven from Minnesota and was on a mission. He said he left his home in Columbus, Ohio to reach 'the flyover states' in a quest to visit all 50 states.
His quest struck a chord with me, because I, coincidentally, was on the same mission but way ahead of him. Roger said he grew up in southern Ohio and was 18 years old when he crossed his first border—nearby Indiana. He had only been to 20 or so states, while I was on a monthlong trip to visit the final three of my 50-state pursuit.
The bar at the Little Missouri Saloon in Medora, North Dakota where two travelers, by chance, met with the same goal: visit all 50 states. Gary Stoller
As Roger sipped a cocktail, he told me he is on a dual mission: After driving through Theodore Roosevelt National Park, he planned to head for the two midpoints of the United States. Belle Fourche, South Dakota is the midpoint of the nation when including Hawaii and Alaska, he informed me, and Lebanon, Kansas is near the midpoint of the continental USA.
Before heading for the two midpoints and other flyover states, he said he would wake up at 5 a.m. and run 5-10 miles. That apparently would be an easy run. He said he plans to participate in an iron man race in Kona, Hawaii and has done a lot of long-distance running. He said he ran 48 miles from the Grand Canyon's South Rim to the North Rim and used strategies to survive the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, Spain.
Inspired by Roger's determination and athletic feats—and what I perceived as a bit of wackiness—I decided to head for Belle Fourche en route to Deadwood, South Dakota, my next night's stop. North Dakota had knocked off state No. 48 in my 50-state pursuit. The final two states—Arkansas and Alabama—were a long way away on my solo journey.
Here's a diary of the May 3-31 trip to achieve setting foot in all 50. The trip covered 6,533 miles and went through 23 states.
May 3, Solon Ohio. My journey starts in Newtown, Connectiuct via Interstate 84 toward Scranton, where I head south to meet up with Interstate 80 west. I-80 is a nightmare with potholes, broken and bumpy pavement and one-lane construction zones. It's a 7 1/2-hour drive, plus the time added on for lunch and restroom stops. The last two hours are difficult, as they would be on most stretches of this trip, because sleepiness intrudes. Snack food, drinks and downloaded Sirius radio shows are the remedy. Solon is uneventful—a place to sleep.
A boulder appears as comfortable as a bed at the Henry Vilas Zoo in Madison, Wisconsin. Gary Stoller
May 4, Madison, Wisconsin. It is cold and rainy with poor visibility as I follow too many massive trucks through a chewed-up I-80 and one-lane construction zones in Ohio and Indiana. A saving-grace lunch brings enjoyment at the fabulous Vietnamese restaurant Bowl of Pho in Mishawaka, Indiana, just outside South Bend and the Notre Dame campus. The food at this restaurant in a shopping center beats all the Vietnamese fare I have eaten in the Northeast. As I head north toward Illinois, I see the majestic Golden Dome on the Notre Dame campus. In Illinois, the weather turns about 30 degrees warmer, and it's a beautiful day. Bathed in sunlight, Madison's State Capitol building, located in the heart of downtown Madison on an isthmus formed by Lake Mendota to the north and Lake Monona to the south, is impressive. Its white dome is the largest by volume in the USA and the only dome made of granite. In their graduation gowns, many University of Wisconsin students pose for pictures on the capitol steps.
May 5, Madison, Wisconsin. A short morning hike along the shore of Lake Monona in Olin Park yields nice views of the State Capitol building and downtown. About five miles north, I visit the 300-acre University of Wisconsin-Madison Lakeshore Nature Preserve for another short hike along the shore of Lake Mendota. The afternoon is spent walking on the grounds of the Olbrich Botanical Gardens and the Henry Vilas Zoo. Olbrich features 16 acres of free-of-charge outdoor display gardens, an indoor tropical conservatory and the only Thai Pavilion in the continental USA. The free-admission zoo offers close-up views of lions, rhinos, a polar bear and many other animals.
The founders of Drekker Brewing in Fargo, North Dakota have transformed an 1880 locomotive repair shop into a four-story complex with a hotel, a taproom, restaurants and shops. Gary Stoller
May 6, Fargo, North Dakota. Heading through Minnesota en route to Fargo, I notice insect-splat hitting the front windshield for the first time. Why were there no such insect suicides in Connecticut, Pennsylvana, Ohio, Indiana, Wisconsin or Illinois? In Blaine, Minnesota, I stop at Jawad Grill for a delicious falafel sandwich. On arrival in Fargo, I head to a shopping mall to see the small Roger Maris Museum honoring the former New York Yankees slugger. Then I head to Brewhalla, a wonderful creation of Mark Bjornstad and his co-founders at Drekker Brewing. They have transformed an 1880 locomotive repair shop into a bustling four-story complex with a hotel, a taproom, restaurants and shops. Fargo fascinates as a sign lights up informing motorists to take an alternate route when a seemingly endless freight train, linked with numerous tanker cars, passes through the city.
The geographic beauty of North Dakota's Theodore Roosevelt National Park is undeniable. Gary Stoller
May 7-8, Medora, North Dakota. Traveling across North Dakota from Fargo in the east to Medora in the west is a straight line on I-94 that takes about 4 1/2 hours and is a bit of a surprise. I hadn't expected to pass the Continental Divide or see many lakes, ponds and rivers in the middle of the state. I stop in Jamestown for lunch at Babb's Coffee House, which has a multitude of hot and iced coffee drinks and numerous breakfast and lunch items, to devour a tasty black bean and guacamole wrap. I didn't see a single police car monitoring drivers' speeds for about three hours on I-94 until I reach Bismarck, the state capitol. When I arrive in Medora, I enter Theodore Roosevelt National Park's South Unit and am instantly blown away by its spectacular geography. Almost immediately, a buffalo moves toward my car, just several feet away. Two wild horses later play or fight just yards away from my vehicle, and prairie dogs are everywhere. On the second day, I drive 68 miles northeast of Medora on a bumpy road to enter the national park's isolated North Unit before driving 28 miles roundtrip within the park and 68 miles back to Medora. The North Unit geography is worth the trip.
This spot in Belle Fourche, South Dakota is the midpoint of the United States. Gary Stoller
May 9, South Dakota's Belle Fourche and Deadwood. I veer off US Highway 85 to drive eight miles on Old Highway 85, a dirt road that brings me to the midpoint of the USA in Belle Fourche. It's the middle of nowhere with grasslands extending as far as the eye can see in every direction, and a makeshift sign attached to a wire fence declares 'True Center of the Nation.' (Other travelers who come here should remember after their visit to turn around and go back the way they came to return to US Highway 85. My GPS told me to continue on the dirt road for many miles to connect with another section of the highway, but then the GPS directions ended, and there was no highway. I had to turn around and backtrack for many dusty miles.) After Belle Fourche, I stop in Spearfish outside Deadwood for an excellent meal at Antunez, which bills itself as 'a vibrant culinary destination that masterfully blends Spanish, Latin and Mexican flavors into a unique fusion experience.' Deadwood bustles with weekend gamblers, and I find nearby Lead in the northern Black Hills more interesting. Lead was a mining town in the 1870s, and portions remain unchanged. The Homestake Mine is no longer in operation, but the Sanford Underground Research Facility at Homestake is a unique successor. It's an underground scientific research center with more than 370 miles of tunnels. The visitor's center is worth a visit; more extensive tours require a sponsor.
South Dakota's Custer State Park is one of the most beautiful state parks in the country. Gary Stoller
May 10, South Dakota's Custer State Park and Needles Highway and Boulder, Colorado. Custer State Park and its Needles Highway certainly can vie for America's No. 1 state park. The rock formations in the 71,000 acres of the Black Hills are spectacular, including some you drive through, and the scenery is drop-dead beautiful. It's a perfect place to walk or hike to see the natural wonders and abundant wildlife. The 14-mile Needles Highway is an incredible drive through ponderosa pine and spruce forests, surrounded by rugged granite mountains. After a long drive through South Dakota and the barren lands of Wyoming, I finally arrive on Colorado's Front Range in Boulder.
The view above Gold Hill, Colorado is breathtaking. Gary Stoller
May 11-22, Boulder and several other Colorado destinations. I once lived in Boulder and graduated from the University of Colorado, so this city is a second home. Why not spend two weeks here before heading southeast to knock off my final two states? Twice, I go up Boulder's canyons—queasy drivers concerned about switchbacks without guardrails may want to abstain—to my favorite place in the universe. To me, there's nothing better than sitting alone at a altitude more than 8,000 feet above tiny Gold Hill, looking out at the Continental Divide, Arapaho Glacier and snow-covered mountains, including 14,256-foot Long's Peak, the tallest mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park. Boulder's Avery Brewing Company was a repeat pit stop not only for great beer but also for meals and desserts. Don't miss the peanut butter pie! Boulder has 15 breweries that compete for business, so there's plenty of free action—trivia contests, bingo, board games, live music—nearly every night. A visit would not be complete without stopping at the historic Hotel Boulderado, which first opened to guests in 1909, and the Dark Horse, a two-story bar decorated everywhere with movie props and antiques.
May 23, Liberal, Kansas. The 6-hour drive from Boulder makes me wonder if the Colorado plains will ever end. This city is a little more than the halfway point en route to Tulsa, Oklahoma. Much of the day is gone when I arrive, and there is a New York Knicks playoff game to watch on the hotel TV.
The Bob Dylan Center in Tulsa, Oklahoma honors the achievements of the musical and cultural icon. Gary Stoller
May 24-25, Tulsa, Oklahoma. The aim is to visit the Bob Dylan Center and the Woody Guthrie Center—two museums steps away from one another on the same street. Both museums contain unique artifacts and video presentations that add to the greatness of the two American musicians who are musical and cultural icons.
Nearby is Greenwood, a district of the city where deep reflection is needed because of a horrific massacre there in 1921. The district has become better known as Black Wall Street after white racists killed 36-300 Black residents and injured more than 700 others. Nearly 9,000 African Americans were left homeless, and 35-40 square blocks of Greenwood's residential area were in smoking ruins.
May 26, Fayetteville, Arkansas. A stop is first made in Bentonville, Arkansas to see Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, founded by Walmart heiress Alice Walton. The Inn at Carnal Hall, built in 1905 as the first women's dormitory at the University of Arkansas, is a unique lodging with first-class rooms and excellent breakfast fare. The taproom at the Flyway Brewing Company provides an excellent saison, pizza and a fun night of trivia.
The National Civil Rights Museum in Memphis is at the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King was assassinated. Gary Stoller
May 27-28. Memphis, Tennessee. The National Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Motel, where Martin Luther King was assassinated, is the most moving place I visit on my entire trip. The woundings and killings of Black Americans and the injustices they suffered are awful and documented in the museum. It's also a heartening place that shows the actions of many Black leaders and citizens and the victories won through the years. King's fight for equality, justice and freedom is presented in great detail. The chilling part is seeing the bedroom King stepped out of and the balcony where he was assassinated.
Nearby Beale Street is very quiet on a weekday. The music at clubs begins later. For high-quality ribs, catfish and turnip greens, go to the street's Blues City Cafe.
Alabama is the 50th state visited by this journalist. Gary Stoller
May 29, Huntsville, Alabama. The welcome to Alabama sign was, of course, the biggest highlight of the 23-state odyssey. Halleluhah! I had finally visited every state in America. I see a sign for Muscle Shoals, where many hit songs were recorded since the 1960s in two studios, and detour through the city. Exiting, I make a wrong turn and wind up at Ivy Green, Helen Keller's birthplace in Tuscumbia, Alabama. At dinner in Huntsville, locals tell me that the city is the best place in the country to live—so don't tell anybody!
The birthplace of Helen Keller is open for visitors at Tuscumbia, Alabama. Gary Stoller
May 30, Salem, Virginia. The mountains impressively squeeze the highway on both sides when approaching Salem after a 7-hour drive from Huntsville. Scenic Salem sits in the Shenandoah Valley between the Allegheny and Blue Ridge Mountains along the Roanoke River.
May 31, Home in Connecticut. The monthlong 6,533-mile trip has reached a conclusion with many memories to savor. Now, I have to figure out a way to stop reaching my hands up to the wheel when I am not in a car.
This hybrid gasped its way up Colorado's canyons but survived the pounding it took for 6,533 miles across America. Gary Stoller
