24-05-2025
For the perfect burger, skip the grill
For the perfect burger, skip the grill
No grill? No problem. Burger scholar George Motz says the grill is actually one of the hardest ways to get it right, and he recommends a flattop or skillet for a perfect patty. If you need the cheeseburger right this minute (we understand), you can watch this well-done instructional video.
Heat your skillet, then take a scoop of meat − an ice cream scoop works great − and drop it in the pan. Sprinkle some salt on top, let it sit there for a minute, maybe add some thinly sliced onions, then smash it. Yes, literally smash it down with a heavy metal spatula. Let it cook for a minute or two on each side, top it with cheese, and put it on a toasted bun.
That's it.
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What makes the perfect cheeseburger?
"Simplicity, in hamburgers, is paramount," says Motz, a well-traveled, Emmy Award-winning freelance filmmaker and cheeseburger expert.
"No. 1, you want to be able to taste the beef; we all know that. Whatever else is on that burger, whether it's the vehicle that's delivering the burger − the bread − or if it's a cheese, or some other kind of condiment, you want to make sure it's simple. And that it actually does enhance the beefy flavor."
He says onions unquestionably enhance the beefy flavor. And salt works well to help the proteins in the beef pop with flavor. The right bun is crucial. And it needs to fit in your mouth.
Motz says the bread has to be very simple. "It shouldn't be sweet. Brioche buns are the worst thing for burgers because they have too much sugar in them."
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The ideal cheeseburger, according to George Motz
Don't complicate the condiments
Motz keeps it simple: "Just onion, maybe mustard and mayo, but beef grease is a condiment too."
He says that while mustard sounds as if it's strong, "the French had it all figured out a long time ago when they put mustard on steak and realized that it enhanced the taste."
He says the vinegar in the mustard breaks down the fat, helps you understand the flavors a little better and makes it more palatable.
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What are America's favorite burger toppings?
According to a survey by Americans who say they like burgers believe the quality of the meat between the buns determines how good the burger is. Only 2% of the respondents said they would rather not garnish their burgers.
OK, then forget foie gras. Are there burger faux pas?
Motz says ketchup is the worst thing you can put on a burger.
"Ketchup really does nothing more than just sweeten the burger, which doesn't really work well," he says. "I think it goes really well on fries, not on a burger."
Mayo, however, passes the test, he says: "It is really good on a burger. It has some complexity, and has its own animal fats that work well with beef fat."
But it depends where he is.
"Wisconsin burger joints put butter on their burgers," he says. "Regional specialties abound. To me, if people are eating it, especially if I am in a restaurant that's been there for 100 years, I am eating it that way as well. But when I am at home, I am keeping it simple. Just onions and mustard and some mayo."
What about the bun?
Again, Motz recommends keeping it simple, with "a good old white, yeasty bun."
"Sometimes, you have this really big homemade bun with a hard top on it and a soft inside, and when you go to bite the burger and it shoots out the back of the of the bun because it's just too hard. You can't actually take a bite. Your teeth have to be able to go through the thing."
And the meat?
"The best burgers are the ones that anybody can make," Motz says.
"Keep it simple: chuck only."
He recommends this cut of beef because chuck is a part of the animal that cooks well, and fast: "Chuck has the perfect marbling throughout. You could take an entire chuck, cut it up, throw it in a grinder, you have a perfect hamburger. So you can't go wrong."
In fact, he says, there is a risk in trying too hard and getting a bad result: "Honestly, it really shouldn't be about fancy blends, trying to figure out which blends work with each other, and what the actual grind number should be. It doesn't really matter."
So you say we shouldn't use a grill?
"People think the easiest way to make a hamburger is in their backyard on a grill, which is actually the hardest way," he says. "The most difficult way to make a burger is to put it on an open flame."
Motz says that's because too many variables are in play, including heat that can range from 300 to 600 degrees, the thickness of the patty, and how close the flame is to the grill.
"You don't know what's going on there," he says. "It's really hard to actually make magic in the backyard."
Motz says burger chefs should stick with a flattop or cast-iron skillet. It's easier to control temperature, and the flavor is unique.
"You're cooking it in its own fat, almost like burger confit," he says. "When you grill a burger, a lot of the fat drips down to the fire and creates these carbonic compounds that give the burger a very different flavor.
Also, "you're probably having a good time drinking with your friends, and you're not paying attention. One of the hardest things to do is cook burgers in your backyard on grill. If you can, you're already way ahead of the game."
Firing up the coals anyway? Here are some tips
Motz says you should avoid hand-forming patties, especially for larger cookouts, because you can never get the size right. "Measure. You want to make sure you actually portion the burger. You take some bulk meat and make little balls and weigh them."
He also uses a biscuit cutter on parchment paper to control patty size: "You have this perfectly formed round burger, and you can't go wrong when cooking on the grill. Having very straight sides really helps the integrity of the burger."
And don't be afraid to try new things.
"Smoked burgers are fantastic," he says. "It's not a flavor that everybody is used to, but I did find a method where you cook for 50 minutes over indirect coals, with some wood chips for flavoring. It's hard to beat that flavor."
Editor's note: While the author is a believer in the simple smashburger, he has a sweet spot for diced onions in ketchup because they bring him back to childhood memories with his grandmother. Sorry, George. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
