Latest news with #Glickman's
Glasgow Times
12-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Glasgow Times
I ate at Glasgow's University Cafe 10 years after TV fame
A kitsch callback to a simpler time, it's leading them indoors where stainless steel buckets filled with sweet ice cream lie in subzero temperatures beneath the counter. Kudos to them for finding the perfect antidote to the balmy Spring weather, but I'm here in search of a dish that will stretch the limits of my appetite far further than a scoop of stracciatella. 'I'm pretty sure god is against this,' late chef and beloved TV personality Anthony Bourdain said of his dinner eaten in this spot for a Scotland-focused episode of Parts Unknown, which first aired on May 10, 10 years ago. READ NEXT: Is Ho Lee Fook the best street food in Glasgow? READ NEXT: The inside story of Glickman's - Glasgow's oldest sweet shop (Image: Newsquest) He delivered this one of signature, razor-sharp one-liners while reaching for another chip, swimming in curry sauce and topped with a blanket of melted cheese so thick that you could almost feel the weight of it through your screen as it cooled and congealed. Of course, this was just a side order to his main event of deep-fried haggis (served here in 'tube form') and a portion of crispy battered haddock. A decade later, looking for a way to acknowledge the milestone, I've decided to risk a spike in cholesterol levels for the chance to experience the same meal which the Kitchen Confidential star ultimately hailed as 'one of life's great pleasures'. Outside of a star feature in Bourdain's celebrated CNN travel series, The University Café is an institution in its own right. Run by the Verrechia family, there's over 100 years' worth of history packed into these walls, and the interiors remain delightfully unchanged as one of the West End's busiest streets morphs and evolves around them. Pictured: Chips, cheese and curry sauce is just the beginning (Image: Newsquest) I sit towards the back of the space, where I'm caught off guard by leather seats which fold down just the same as those you'd find at a theatre. It's snug, but the perfect spot to survey the comings and goings of the café. Aside from swarms of students buzzing in and out with queries about today's ice cream flavours, there's only one other solo diner occupying the sit-in dining area. I eye his can of Irn Bru from across the room and wonder if he too has chosen the Bourdain Special, a repeat of the chef's Frankenstein order which has become a permanent fixture on their menu due to its popularity with fans. With my back to the wall shared with the kitchen, I can hear, but not see, my own single serving of the special being prepared. Crackle. Pop. Bubble. It all comes to a crescendo fuelled by blistering hot oil as each component of this gut-busting feast is plunged into a fryer. Having already dropped off the fizzy drink included in the Bourdain Special, the waitress almost catches me in the act of self-filming a video for our social channels when returning with the rest of the order. Pictured: The Bourdain Special at the University Cafe (Image: Newsquest) Thankfully, there's little time to agonise over whether the main man himself would have dubbed this blatant quest for content creation lame, because there's food here to be eaten. And a lot of it. The curry sauce goes first, poured at a height from a small white milk jug with a chip in its lip and falling in an uneven, gloopy stream. Foodie Room 101 though it may be to some, I find curry sauce to be the ultimate companion to any meal that feels just a little bit 'dirty'. There's a perverse pleasure in ordering this yellow-tinged condiment from a Chinese takeaway or chippy, knowing that that these sweet and spicy flavours don't quite belong but doing it anyway. I know this slathering of the good stuff will turn the batter of that freshly fried haddock into an instant mush, but I don't care, and continue to pour until the last drop. Of all of the items that complete Bourdain's god-offending order, I'll find that the haggis is the best. Whichever brand they use is of a high enough quality that there's decent texture even after being exposed to intense heat, and the richness of meat described in the TV segment as 'sinister sheep parts' shines through any greasiness. Take this from someone who compared six variations of our national dish, including one packed into a can, in honour of Burn's Night earlier this year. Is the haddock as good as the stuff they serve at say, the Fish Works in Largs, or the Anstruther Fish Bar? The short answer is no. But I'm not here for any kind of upmarket experience. It's salty, oily and the white flesh flakes just as well when released from a cocoon of heavy batter. A colleague later describes the meal as looking appetising in an 'after four pints' kind of way, and I understand his point. This is the type of food that can only be fully enjoyed when any notion of calorie counting or refined dining left at the door. Something that we should all surrender to now and again, whether sober or far from it. When I arise from the table, leaving the red leather seat to snap back it its original position behind me, I overhear a couple who have plonked themselves down with an impressive collection of backpacks asking the waiter about the Bourdain Special in unfamiliar accents, a reminder that his fans can be found all across the wide world he once travelled. 'It's funny, a lot of them seem to have sold today,' I'm told when approaching the counter to pay my bill. Before I have the chance to decide if I should reveal my journalistic motives for visiting, the long-serving member of the team offers up an anecdote from Bourdain's visit without any prompt. 'I had the place spotless,' she says, 'and then a child sat at the booth next to where they were filming and smeared their hands right across the glass.' I'm here to write about that very day, I tell her, in the hopes that she'll share more of what it was like to host a man whose work I found myself engrossed in as soon as I started to develop an interest in food and world cuisine. In all of the fun of the afternoon, her response is a sincere yet sobering reminder of the issues which plagued the chef when the cameras stopped rolling and would later develop into something much darker. He wasn't rude by any means, she stresses, but when she approached him to make conversation, the chef seemed somewhat disconnected and closed off. 'You can tell with some people, when something's not quite right.' (Image: Newsquest) Rewatching the Parts Unknown episode in the years following Bourdain's death in 2018 has a bittersweet effect. There's a sense of pride in the moment's when he highlights the city's true spirit rather than leaning into the stereotype of a gritty place plagued by violence and crime. But we now return to those soundbites, knowing that he will never walk its streets again. "A happy place from my past where once I frolicked young and carefree in the field of friolated arts. The University Cafe, where I learned at the foot of the masters the doa of hot fat and crispy batter." 10 years since we first tagged along with him for the ride, his name permanently printed on the menus at a place he returned to time and time again serves as a reminder of the seismic impact this troubled, yet brilliant chef and reluctant celebrity figure has left behind.
Glasgow Times
10-05-2025
- Business
- Glasgow Times
The inside story of Glickman's - Glasgow's oldest sweet shop
'They were looking for some sort of white powder that they could use for a 'drug deal',' Irene Birkett from the 122-year-old London Road business explains. 'In the end, we found that crushed white sugar mice worked best, so on the TV they held up a plastic bag filled with that.' 'The best request was a crowbar to fling into the Clyde for an episode where someone was disposing of a murder weapon," her daughter Julie Birkett jumps in to add. "We ended up making a long stick out of rock candy." Pictured: Mother and daughter duo Irene and Julie Birkett of Glickman's (Image: Supplied) It's just one of the fascinating stories the pair manages to pack into an hour-long interview, each taking turns to spur each other on. There's talk of a visit from TV chef Jamie Oliver, a chat with a customer which led to the adoption of a beloved canine friend, Bailey, and even the start of a long-term romantic relationship. 'These paramedics used to stop in now and then for sweets, and one day one of them came in alone to ask if I would ever consider going on a motorbike trip with his colleague,' Julie tells me. 'I said 'eh, no way'. 'Anyway. That's us still together 15 years later'. READ NEXT: We tried the al fresco champagne bar at Glasgow Central Pictured: Glickman's was established in 1903 by Isaac Glickman (Image: Supplied) Before any of this would come to pass, the retail shop's journey first began with Isaac Glickman, grandfather to Irene and great-grandfather to Julie in 1903. Although details of his early life remain scarce, it is believed that he emigrated from Poland to Glasgow with the ambition of selling homemade confectionery. The shop became known for its tablet recipe, utilising cream rather than butter, and when war later broke out, queues for aniseed-infused 'cough tablet', which was deemed medicinal and therefore unaffected by rationing, would often stretch down the street. In more recent years, having discovered Glickman's handwritten recipes after his passing, the current owners undertook a mission to preserve them, translating his text from old metrics and committing themselves to learning the craft of confectionery by enrolling at the Food Technology College, now City of Glasgow College. Irene says: 'When my father died, the shop was passed down to our family. 'Though we had no prior experience in confectionery, Julie and I were determined to maintain his recipes. 'Mum and I went along to the college once a week, every week, for two years,' Julie confirms. Pictured: Glickman's is renowned for its handmade sweets, which include classic favourites including cream tablet, macaroon cake, candy balls, and Krispets (Image: Supplied) Holding a key role in the shop's day-to-day operations, she is keen to stress the importance of preserving these traditional recipes: 'Our sweets are not just a treat; they're a link to the past. Whether it's a bag of soor plooms or a handful of handmade tablet, our customers are experiencing something that has been part of Glasgow's history for generations.' While each day brings with it the joy of interacting with customers old and new, maintaining an independently run retail shop in the current climate is not without its difficulties. Their location on the edge of Glasgow Green means that Glickman's will often be affected by nearby football matches or be forced to shut due to music concerts and festivals which the team say leave locals less likely to leave their homes in search of a sweet treat. Still, one of the toughest challenges in the shop's history also served as a welcome reminder of what their service means to the community. 'Covid wiped out so many small businesses like ours across Scotland,' Irene said. 'We were shut, then open, and shut again, so there was no sense of normality at all: it was just awful. 'When we opened again, we thought that there was no way we would ever catch up, but we were totally shocked at just how many people were happy to see us back. 'We're so grateful to them. It was quite an amazing thing.' READ NEXT: New Yoker mural for Glasgow comedian Limmy Pictured: Take your pick of sweet treats from the shelves (Image: Supplied) Though the peak of the pandemic is slowly becoming a distant memory, Glickman's now must contend with the rising prices of ingredients from chocolate to coconut, over which they have no control. 'All of your costs are going up and essentially you're working for less money, but we don't want to put our prices up,' Julie says. 'We've always been known for keeping our prices reasonable and some of our customers have been coming here for decades. 'It's hard, taking the hit, but the support we continue to get from them has been really encouraging.' Beyond its historical significance, Glickman's Confectionery plays an active role in the local community. The shop has long supported the Glasgow Film Theatre's Movie Memories initiative, a dementia-friendly film programme that seeks to make cinema accessible to everyone. The team contributes to the initiative by providing small bags of sweet nostalgia for attendees, helping individuals living with dementia feel more connected to their surroundings. Pictured: Irene carries on her grandfather's legacy at Glickman's (Image: Supplied) Over the years, they have also worked extensively with community groups such as The Brownies and also give those visiting Glasgow a warm welcome by acting as a pit stop for the red double-decker buses which ferry tourists from landmark to landmark. Julie says: 'Our goal is to be more than just a sweet shop. 'It's about fostering a sense of community and belonging: whether through supporting Movie Memories or bringing together generations of Glasgow residents, we are proud to play our part in creating a welcoming space for all.' This year, celebrating Glasgow's 850th birthday as one of the 44 establishments participating in the Taste the Place initiative, Glickman's Confectionery invites both locals and visitors to savour the flavours of the city's past while celebrating its vibrant future. Whether enjoying a traditional sweet or learning about the history behind each treat, Glickman's offers a unique opportunity to experience a taste of Glasgow's cultural heritage. Irene says: 'We are honoured to be part of Glasgow's 850-year history. 'Taste the Place is an excellent opportunity for us to share not only our sweets but also our story with those who walk through our door.' 'Neither of us could believe it when they asked if we would be involved,' Julie continues. 'The food scene in Glasgow is amazing at the moment with such a huge variety of talent, we're absolutely delighted to be included on the list.' Glickman's Confectionery is located at 157 London Road in Glasgow. To learn more about Taste the Place, visit
The Herald Scotland
09-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Herald Scotland
The inside story of Glickman's - Glasgow's oldest sweet shop
'In the end, we found that crushed white sugar mice worked best, so on the TV they held up a plastic bag filled with that.' 'The best request was a crowbar to fling into the Clyde for an episode where someone was disposing of a murder weapon," her daughter Julie Birkett jumps in to add. "We ended up making a long stick out of rock candy." Pictured: Mother and daughter duo Irene and Julie Birkett of Glickman's (Image: Supplied) It's just one of the fascinating stories the pair manages to pack into an hour-long interview, each taking turns to spur each other on. There's talk of a visit from TV chef Jamie Oliver, a chat with a customer which led to the adoption of a beloved canine friend, Bailey, and even the start of a long-term romantic relationship. 'These paramedics used to stop in now and then for sweets, and one day one of them came in alone to ask if I would ever consider going on a motorbike trip with his colleague,' Julie tells me. 'I said 'eh, no way'. 'Anyway. That's us still together 15 years later'. Pictured: Glickman's was established in 1903 by Isaac Glickman (Image: Supplied) Before any of this would come to pass, the retail shop's journey first began with Isaac Glickman, grandfather to Irene and great-grandfather to Julie in 1903. Although details of his early life remain scarce, it is believed that he emigrated from Poland to Glasgow with the ambition of selling homemade confectionery. The shop became known for its tablet recipe, utilising cream rather than butter, and when war later broke out, queues for aniseed-infused 'cough tablet', which was deemed medicinal and therefore unaffected by rationing, would often stretch down the street. In more recent years, having discovered Glickman's handwritten recipes after his passing, the current owners undertook a mission to preserve them, translating his text from old metrics and committing themselves to learning the craft of confectionery by enrolling at the Food Technology College, now City of Glasgow College. Irene says: 'When my father died, the shop was passed down to our family. 'Though we had no prior experience in confectionery, Julie and I were determined to maintain his recipes. 'Mum and I went along to the college once a week, every week, for two years,' Julie confirms. Pictured: Glickman's is renowned for its handmade sweets, which include classic favourites including cream tablet, macaroon cake, candy balls, and Krispets (Image: Supplied) Holding a key role in the shop's day-to-day operations, she is keen to stress the importance of preserving these traditional recipes: 'Our sweets are not just a treat; they're a link to the past. Whether it's a bag of soor plooms or a handful of handmade tablet, our customers are experiencing something that has been part of Glasgow's history for generations.' While each day brings with it the joy of interacting with customers old and new, maintaining an independently run retail shop in the current climate is not without its difficulties. Their location on the edge of Glasgow Green means that Glickman's will often be affected by nearby football matches or be forced to shut due to music concerts and festivals which the team say leave locals less likely to leave their homes in search of a sweet treat. Still, one of the toughest challenges in the shop's history also served as a welcome reminder of what their service means to the community. 'Covid wiped out so many small businesses like ours across Scotland,' Irene said. 'We were shut, then open, and shut again, so there was no sense of normality at all: it was just awful. 'When we opened again, we thought that there was no way we would ever catch up, but we were totally shocked at just how many people were happy to see us back. 'We're so grateful to them. It was quite an amazing thing.' Pictured: Take your pick of sweet treats from the shelves (Image: Supplied) Though the peak of the pandemic is slowly becoming a distant memory, Glickman's now must contend with the rising prices of ingredients from chocolate to coconut, over which they have no control. 'All of your costs are going up and essentially you're working for less money, but we don't want to put our prices up,' Julie says. 'We've always been known for keeping our prices reasonable and some of our customers have been coming here for decades. 'It's hard, taking the hit, but the support we continue to get from them has been really encouraging.' Beyond its historical significance, Glickman's Confectionery plays an active role in the local community. The shop has long supported the Glasgow Film Theatre's Movie Memories initiative, a dementia-friendly film programme that seeks to make cinema accessible to everyone. The team contributes to the initiative by providing small bags of sweet nostalgia for attendees, helping individuals living with dementia feel more connected to their surroundings. Pictured: Irene carries on her grandfather's legacy at Glickman's (Image: Supplied) Over the years, they have also worked extensively with community groups such as The Brownies and also give those visiting Glasgow a warm welcome by acting as a pit stop for the red double-decker buses which ferry tourists from landmark to landmark. Julie says: 'Our goal is to be more than just a sweet shop. 'It's about fostering a sense of community and belonging: whether through supporting Movie Memories or bringing together generations of Glasgow residents, we are proud to play our part in creating a welcoming space for all.' Read more: This year, celebrating Glasgow's 850th birthday as one of the 44 establishments participating in the Taste the Place initiative, Glickman's Confectionery invites both locals and visitors to savour the flavours of the city's past while celebrating its vibrant future. Whether enjoying a traditional sweet or learning about the history behind each treat, Glickman's offers a unique opportunity to experience a taste of Glasgow's cultural heritage. Irene says: 'We are honoured to be part of Glasgow's 850-year history. 'Taste the Place is an excellent opportunity for us to share not only our sweets but also our story with those who walk through our door.' 'Neither of us could believe it when they asked if we would be involved,' Julie continues. 'The food scene in Glasgow is amazing at the moment with such a huge variety of talent, we're absolutely delighted to be included on the list.' Glickman's Confectionery is located at 157 London Road in Glasgow. To learn more about Taste the Place, visit
