03-04-2025
The Istrian Peninsula's Most Luxurious Hotel
The Grand Hotel Brioni.
Vacationers to Croatia tend to hit the Dalmatian Coast for seaside escapes, with the city of Dubrovnik being on top of their lists. Occasionally, Hvar, an island in the Adriatic Sea, may figure in.
But put these overly touristy destinations aside, and let me tell you about the country's hidden gem worthy of a trip in and of itself: the Istrian Peninsula in the northern Adriatic, a treasure trove waiting to be unearthed.
The region is incredibly scenic and full of miles of beaches, cultural and historical attractions, wineries and olive oil estates, and so much more. Come here to relax on the sand, hike along gorgeous coastline, visit ancient sites, hunt truffles, and the list goes on.
Whatever you do, there's only one place to stay on your Istrian getaway: Grand Hotel Brioni Pula, part of the Radisson Collection. Forget that the property is luxurious- a stay here is a memorable experience in every way, from the seaside setting to the on-the-mark service and the cuisine, plus the spa. I had a full itinerary to explore Istria when I was there last summer, but I was remiss in leaving this retreat within a retreat.
Grand Hotel Brioni has a storied history dating back more than 50 years and was the stomping ground for many celebrities and political figures, including Sophia Loren and members of the bands Boney M. and ABBA.
Grand Hotel Brioni outdoors.
Over time, the property lost its luster and became run down. Enter executives from Radisson Collection, who saw its potential and collaborated with the owners, Arena Hospitality Group, to bring it back to its glory days. Arena invested over $45 million to renovate Grand Hotel Brioni and closed it down in 2020 for the redo.
The reopening in 2022, its 50th anniversary, marked a new era for a long-established name. My stay was short but exceptional. Dario, the in-house trainer, took me on an early morning trek through the stunning coast where I gawked at every turn, and the massage therapist from Indonesia in the spa worked out my tight muscles afterwards.
Even if you're not a hiker, you need to visit the spa—it's a wellness sanctuary with three saunas, a salt wall, and an 'ice fountain,' which offers four showers at different temperatures.
I ate meals in two of the four restaurants, and the seafood—the whole grilled freshly caught seabass, most of all—was beyond fresh and flavorful. The expansive breakfast spread is also a 'wow," as is the collection of art by local artists on display throughout the property, including outside.
The hotel's elegant lobby.
Grand Hotel Brioni has 227 rooms, all bright and light, that evoke the sea with their blue and white aesthetic. The property also has a manicured park and two swimming pools, one indoors and the other outdoors. The word 'hotel' is a misnomer because Grand Hotel Brioni is a full-on resort.
As for the area itself, rather than me, the general manager and Istria local, Alex Zivkovic, shares his favorite places and things to do and see in his beloved home.
Zivkovic's advice, in his own words, follows.
Pula's Roman arena, a UNESCO world heritage site.
Istria: A Way of Life
Istria is more than just a destination - it's a way of life, an experience that leaves an unforgettable mark on anyone who visits. As someone who has been connected to this region my whole life, I can honestly say that, aside from my dedication to the hotel and its guests, my love for Istria is something I live every day. When I'm not at the hotel, I take every opportunity to enjoy what this region has to offer.
Sailing Through the Beauty of Istria
The boat tour towards the southern tip of Istria is one of my most special experiences. Sailing on the Adriatic, soaking up the sun, surrounded by stunning landscapes - in that moment, you truly feel a sense of freedom and relaxation. I especially enjoy sharing this tour with friends and family because those moments always bring us closer and create lasting memories.
The ancient city of Motovun in Istria.
Istrian Gastronomy
But Istria isn't just about the sea and the scenery. It's deeply rooted in tradition, culture, and gastronomy. For me, enjoying the authentic Istrian delicacies, whether it's truffles, fresh fish, meats, or olive oils – is the true taste of this region. Truffle hunting is an experience I would never miss. Visiting olive groves and tasting premium olive oils is a real delight, as every drop of olive oil tells its own story, its own tradition. Istria is also a paradise for wine lovers. The Istrian wine road offers incredible experiences, and visiting each winery is an opportunity to discover exceptional wines that speak volumes about this region.
Discovering the Beauty of Pula
The culture and history of Pula are deeply woven into the fabric of my Istrian life. The Pula Arena, a magnificent Roman amphitheater, is truly awe-inspiring – it never fails to take your breath away. Being in this space, feeling the history that spans thousands of years, is an incredible experience. These monumental columns, the hollow stone that bears witness to millennia of history - speaks louder than words. All these landmarks tell stories of times gone by, and every corner of this city inspires awe. Yet, Pula is more than just the Arena. The city exudes history and culture at every turn – from its charming old town center to its beautiful beaches, lively concerts, and vibrant atmosphere. Pula is not only a city of the past, but a thriving, dynamic place that truly captures the spirit of both history and modern life.
Nature and Tranquility in Brijuni and Beyond
Brijuni National Park, with its untouched natural beauty and rich history, is also one of my favorite places. Visiting Brijuni means immersing yourself in peace, exploring the cultural heritage of this archipelago, and enjoying its incredible biodiversity. I have shared many moments here with family and friends, exploring hidden beaches and walking paths that tell stories of past times.
These peaceful moments stay with me and remind me of how important it is to take time for yourself, to be in nature, to relax, and recharge.
I've always believed that the true experience of Istria lies in the simple things – in peace, food, wine, nature, family, and friends. That's the magic of Istria that I want to share with everyone.
