Latest news with #GrandSeiko
Yahoo
2 days ago
- Business
- Yahoo
Japanese Watch Brand Credor Unveils a Gérald Genta–Designed Watch
This story is from an installment of In the Loupe, our weekly insider newsletter about the best of the watch world. Sign up here. On a rainy afternoon in Paris last month, Evelyne Genta, whose late husband, Gerald Genta, designed some of the Swiss watch industry's best-selling timepieces, looked down at the Japanese-made watch on her left wrist—an unusual hexagonal timepiece named the Locomotive—and remarked on how pleasant the model, which Mr. Genta designed in 1979 for Grand Seiko's sibling brand Credor, felt to the touch. More from Robb Report H. Moser & Cie. Teams Up With Alpine Motorsports on New Race-Inspired Streamliner Watches Why David Silver's New Vintage Rolex Coffee Table Book Is Essential Reading for Collectors Al Capone's Diamond-Set Patek Philippe Pocket Watch Is Headed to Auction 'It's not stiff,' she said. 'And that's important. Gerald was always very keen that the watch should be something you like to do this with.' She paused to run her fingers along the bracelet. 'It's a watch that you wear.' The couple's 35-year-old daughter Alexia, who runs the Gérald Genta Heritage Association, sat across from her mother wearing an identical timepiece. 'We're always matching in the end,' Alexia said with a laugh. 'We're like walking advertisements.' Last year, on the occasion of Credor's 50th anniversary, the brand reintroduced the Locomotive as a limited edition of 300 pieces encased in high-intensity titanium. This month, it unveiled a $12,500 regular production model that features a new honeycomb-like dial designed to evoke the green signal light of a train. Depending on the light, the hexagonal pattern appears to shimmer, changing hues from forest to grass green. For the next hour, the women, who are both based in London, sat on the second level of the Grand Seiko flagship boutique tucked into the northwest corner of Place Vendôme, and gamely answered questions about Mr. Genta's work with Credor, his love for Japanese culture, and the French slang expression that inspired the name and the ethos of the Locomotive—one of Credor's first sporty designs. ('My husband didn't name many watches, but he named this one,' Evelyne said. 'In those days, when you had a record that was famous, it became a 'locomotive.' It was about the force, the drive, the pull.') Watch lovers steeped in Genta's legacy as the designer of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus, among other iconic timepieces, may not be familiar with his work for Credor, which was founded in 1974 as the Seiko Watch Corp.'s dress watch alternative to Grand Seiko's more practical everyday timepieces. But as of this month, the brand is working hard to change that. At a dinner at the Ritz hotel in Paris, where Evelyne and Alexia served as guests of honor, Akio Naito, president of the Seiko Watch Corp., explained why hosting a Locomotive-focused event with the Gentas in Paris was all part of the brand's new strategy. 'In the last few years, there has been one question which I was constantly asked by the media: 'What are you going to do with Credor?' Of course, I hadn't forgotten about the Credor brand,' Naito said. 'It has been on my mind ever since I took charge of the watch business back in 2016. While Grand Seiko was born in 1960 as the pinnacle of all Seiko watches, and actually carries the name Seiko, Credor is, by nature, free from Seiko, and it can pursue and refine its brand value of uncompromising beauty and elegance. 'The Locomotive, of course, is an iconic model representing this freedom,' he added. 'And that's why, three years ago, I made a decision to fly from Tokyo to London to meet with Madame Genta to ask her permission for us to relaunch this beautiful design. This is for us the first step to make Credor another global luxury watch brand from Japan. I think we are on our way. And Locomotive is the engine to accelerate that path.' Credor's renewed focus on the Locomotive, which is visually similar to the one Genta designed in 1979, except for the fact that its 38.8 mm case diameter is 1 mm larger than the steel-cased original, comes at the same time the brand's distribution is widening. For the first time, Credor watches are now available for purchase outside of Japan, although with just five points of sale—including Grand Seiko's flagship boutiques in Paris and New York City—capacity is still quite limited. It's easy to imagine that interest in the model, among both Grand Seiko fans and Genta devotees, will inspire more people to explore the legendary designer's history with Credor. And yet the brand wasn't his entrée into Japanese watchmaking; rather, it was his friendship with Seiko executive Reijiro Hattori—at a time when Japanese quartz technology was all but decimating the Swiss mechanical watch industry—that paved the way for his work on the Locomotive. 'My husband went to Japan and very quickly met Mr. Hattori and started working with Seiko,' Evelyne said. 'And he developed a great personal rapport with Mr. Hattori. He started designing for Seiko, but the Swiss watch industry didn't react very well to that. Because in those days, the Japanese in the watch industry were seen as the enemy. But Gerald had no problem with that. He felt like there was space for everybody.' She said that Hattori was pivotal in her husband's evolution as a designer because after seeing some of his personal watch designs, the Seiko executive encouraged her husband to promote his own name on his watches—something the Swiss would never have done. 'And Gerald, for the first time, put his name on the dial,' Evelyne said. 'So really, this is why the link with Seiko is not just a link. There's a deep story behind it. It was a turning point, really, because afterwards, he becomes well known and everything, and it seems normal [to have his name on the dials]. But at the beginning, he kept saying to me, 'I wouldn't have dared to put my name on a watch.'' Genta's work with Credor also reflected another personal truth: 'He was passionate about Japan,' Evelyne said. 'He loved their attention to details. A garden in Japan is not an English garden, is it? The sand is all raked and everything. He would spend hours watching that.' Genta even designed watches inspired by Samurai belts. 'One day, he woke up and he decided to design them,' Evelyne said. 'I think there are six or seven of them. He never showed them to anybody. He'd wake up and think, 'I love samurais. I don't know why.' But that's the artist—there was always so much passion.' Alexia said her father loved going to Japan 'because it was probably the country that was the most outspoken about their appreciation of him,' she said. That prompted a memory of a difficult encounter with him when she was about 14 years old, and the family was living in London. 'Every time he'd come back from Japan, he would remind me that over there, they would call him 'Maestro,' Alexia said. 'And one day he told me in all seriousness, 'You can no longer call me Dad. You must call me Maestro.' You can imagine how that went down!' Now, thanks to Credor, the Gentas' long and rich history with Japan is on the cusp of a new era. 'This is an enduring friendship, a friendship that started a long time ago between a gentleman called Mr. Hattori and Mr. Genta,' Evelyne said in her closing remarks at the Ritz dinner. 'And I think it's just the beginning of the Locomotive as well. We've been very touched by the way you respected Gerald's DNA and how you've, in a way, included him in everything. The first time Mr. Naito came to me with this project, it took me all of five minutes to say, 'We're in.' And it's allowed my daughter to discover Japan. And now the whole family is involved.' She paused to raise her glass. 'I would like to drink not to the success of the Locomotive, but to the friendship,' she said. And with that, a round of cheers, santés, and kanpais erupted around the table. Best of Robb Report The 25 Greatest Independent Watchmakers in the World The 10 Most Expensive Watches Sold at Auction in the 21st Century (So Far) 11 Stunning Jewelry Moments From the 2020 Oscars Click here to read the full article.
CNA
01-05-2025
- Entertainment
- CNA
Making history: These 5 timepieces set world records at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025
Records are meant to be broken and nowhere was that spirit more alive than at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025. While every maison brought its A-game, five timepieces stood out not just for their beauty or craftsmanship, but for pushing the boundaries of what's physically and technically possible in modern horology. Vacheron Constantin unveiled the world's most complicated wristwatch boasting 41 complications. Bvlgari reaffirmed its dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking with its 10th world record – the slimmest tourbillon ever made. Ulysse Nardin introduced the lightest mechanical dive watch in the world that weighs less than a tennis ball. Elsewhere, Parmigiani Fleurier made material history with the first watch to be rendered in the avant-garde alloy Cermet. And from Japan, Grand Seiko debuted what may be the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch ever, with an astonishing deviation of just ±20 seconds a year. Here are the five record-setting creations that are redefining the frontiers of the watchmaking world today. BVLGARI With the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Bvlgari writes the 10th chapter in its record-breaking saga of ultra-thin marvels. Measuring a mere 1.85mm thin, the watch sets the world record for the thinnest tourbillon ever made. This 20-piece limited edition builds on the legacy of the Octo Finissimo line, which has consistently pushed horological boundaries for over 10 years – from the 1.95mm-thick tourbillon (2014) to the minute repeater (2016), tourbillon chronograph (2020), perpetual calendar (2021), and COSC-certified chronometer in 2024. Yet, this latest marvel is more than a numbers game; it's an extraordinary feat of modern engineering that carries with it a price tag of over S$1.1m. To achieve such radically thin proportions, Bvlgari had to completely rethink conventional watchmaking principles. Boasting a 42-hour power reserve, the BVF 900 calibre is integrated directly into the tungsten carbide caseback, which doubles up as the mainplate. This ultra-dense, highly rigid material is essential in supporting the delicate architecture of components packed into a movement just 1.5mm high. Central to this achievement is the flying tourbillon. Skeletonised and positioned for maximum visibility, it's driven by a patented differential gear system that separates winding and time-setting across two steel planar crowns at 3 and 8 o'clock. These innovations eliminate the need for vertical crown components and shave precious millimetres off the overall thickness. Aesthetically, the 40mm case stays true to the Octo Finissimo's signature monochromatic grey palette and distinctive geometric silhouette. A microbead-blasted titanium bezel, case middle, and lugs accentuate the geometric profile, while a circular-grained steel ratchet engraved with geometric motifs adds visual intrigue and depth. An integrated microbead-frosted titanium bracelet – just 1.5mm thick, including the clasp – seamlessly completes this masterpiece. GRAND SEIKO As watchmakers tirelessly pursue ever-greater precision, Grand Seiko quietly raises the bar with the Spring Drive U.F.A. (Ultra Fine Accuracy). According to the Japanese manufacture's own research, this could be the most accurate wristwatch movement powered by a mainspring today. Unveiled as part of the Evolution 9 Collection, the new calibre 9RB2 boasts an extraordinary annual rate of ±20 seconds accuracy. To put that into perspective, that's 20 seconds out of over 31 million seconds in a year. To achieve this milestone, the movement relies on a specially aged quartz oscillator and newly designed IC (integrated circuit), a critical component that regulates the movement's speed with high precision. Both are vacuum-sealed to minimise environmental disturbances like temperature shifts and static electricity. Thermo-compensation is calculated precisely for each oscillator, ensuring consistently reliable timekeeping. And for the first time in a Spring Drive movement, a regulation switch allows for accuracy corrections during after-sales servicing. Two ultra-refined 37mm models showcase this innovation: The High-Intensity Titanium (SLGB003) and 80-piece platinum boutique exclusive (SLGB001). Rendered in pale blue hues that vary in tone and depth, their dials reflect the frost-covered trees of the Kirigamine Highlands east of the Shinshu Watch Studio, where all Grand Seiko Spring Drives are produced. The titanium version features a silver-tinged blue dial and tempered blue seconds hand, evoking ice forests under crisp skies. The platinum edition's deeper blue dial offers a refined contrast to the smooth sweep of a silver-toned seconds hand. The Calibre 9RB2 is revealed in all its glory through a sapphire crystal caseback. Its bevelled, mirror-polished edges shimmer like frost, while the jewels gleam like stars in a Shinshu winter sky. Every surface reflects the seasonal beauty surrounding the watch's birthplace. Practicality is matched by comfort: The titanium model includes a newly developed three-step micro-adjustment clasp, operable without tools, for precise 2mm tweaks, while the platinum version is paired with a crocodile strap for classic elegance. PARMIGIANI FLEURIER The high-end Swiss watchmaker breaks new ground in luxury sports watchmaking with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet, the world's first timepiece crafted entirely from Cermet. Known for its exceptional hardness, scratch resistance, and lightweight qualities, the cutting-edge alloy – a high-tech fusion of ceramic and titanium – has previously been reserved for aerospace and engineering applications. The Cermet used here undergoes an extreme selection of fine powders and boasts a unique cool-to-the-touch sensation, which introduces a new sensory dimension to high-end horology. A total of 72 components – from the case, fluted bezel, crown and pushers to even the pin buckle – are fashioned from this material that took three years to perfect. The dial is coated in Blackor, a 9k gold-nickel alloy that lends it a distinctive grey-black hue, which beautifully enhances the timepiece's metallic sophistication. Offered in two 42.5mm references of Milano Blue and London Grey, both chronographs feature matching subdials and textured rubber straps for a chic look. Powering the watch is Parmigiani Fleurier's COSC-certified PF070 integrated chronograph movement with a 65-hour power reserve. Adding to the technical allure are satin-finished openworked bridges, as well as a polished and sandblasted 22k rose gold rotor that are visible through the sapphire caseback. ULYSSE NARDIN The dive watch has long been the workhorse of the horological world, typically defined by its substantial heft, rugged construction, and commanding wrist presence. It's a formula that has remained largely unchanged since the 1950s – until now. Enter Ulysse Nardin, which has achieved the seemingly impossible with its game-changing Diver [AIR]. Weighing only 52g with its strap – and under 46g without – it holds the title of the world's lightest mechanical dive watch. Yet, in true Ulysse Nardin fashion, this radical lightness doesn't sacrifice its serious underwater credentials. With a 44mm case water resistant up to 200m, a movement capable of withstanding shocks up to 5,000G, and an impressive 90-hour power reserve, the Diver [AIR] delivers professional-grade specs in a watch that weighs less than a tennis ball. The secret lies in its skeletonised UN-374 manufacture calibre, which comprises 20 per cent material and 80 per cent air. When Ulysse Nardin designers removed material from the movement, they counterintuitively made it even stronger and more robust. This ingenious move was done by using the slender bridges to form triangles, a rigid shape often used in engineering and architecture to resist bending and warping. The bridges and other movement components are rendered in lightweight titanium that's 90 per cent recycled, while the escapement features an ultra-light, upcycled silicon wafer that further reduces weight while ensuring precision. The technological breakthroughs extend throughout the watch's construction. The modular case construction combines a water-resistant, recycled titanium core with sides made from Nylo-Foil, a hybrid material incorporating repurposed fishing nets and carbon fibre salvaged from IMOCA racing yachts. Even the CarbonFoil bezel insert features 100 per cent upcycled carbon fibres from IMOCA boats that are chopped and compressed into a distinctive marbled pattern. Despite all its technological innovation, the Diver [AIR] still feels like a proper tool watch on the wrist. The bezel rotates with satisfying clicks, while the lume is as bold as any traditional diver's watch. A final flourish: Two interchangeable straps (in orange and white) ensure versatility in any environment. VACHERON CONSTANTIN Vacheron Constantin once again defies the limits of haute horlogerie with the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Premiere, a fitting tribute to the Swiss watchmaker's 270th anniversary. Housing an unprecedented 41 complications, this one-of-a-kind masterpiece is the result of eight years of dedicated research, development, and innovation. At the heart of the mechanical symphony beats the all-new Calibre 3655, a movement composed of 1,521 painstakingly miniaturised components, all housed within a 45mm white gold case that's 14.99mm thick. This double-sided marvel breaks new ground not only in mechanical sophistication, but also in terms of precision miniaturisation, pushing the limits of how much complexity can be achieved in a wearable watch. Its compact dimensions belie an intricate architecture achieved through revolutionary engineering techniques – most notably, an innovative plug-and-play modular system that neatly connects two intricately designed sections: A base calibre that integrates the time, chronograph, and chiming functions, and an additional module housing its rare astronomical displays. The Solaria occupies a special place in horology, notably for its five innovative astronomical complications, four of which are dedicated to tracking the Sun's position across the sky, including its altitude, culmination point, and angle of declination. A fifth complication marries a split-seconds chronograph with a representation of the celestial vault that enables the wearer to calculate precisely the length of time it will take for a selected star to reach the centre of his viewpoint. A previously unattained feat in mechanical watchmaking, it makes its world premiere on the Solaria. It's significant to note that these functions have never been featured on a single wristwatch. Equally remarkable is the watch's innovative chiming mechanism, a Westminster carillon minute repeater, widely regarded as the most sophisticated chime sequence in watchmaking. Featuring four gongs and four hammers, this acoustic complication alone demanded seven of the 13 patent applications filed for this timepiece. The challenge was integrating the mechanism into a dense movement without compromising resonance and clarity. Vacheron Constantin engineers developed rectangular-section gongs anchored directly to the case, complemented by steel and gold hammers to maximise acoustic purity. Despite its encyclopaedic complication count, the Solaria remains highly legible. Its front dial features four counters, two of which carry up to five functions each, arranged for clarity with a contrast-enhancing palette of black, white, and grey. The reverse side, which is dominated by the star chart and split-seconds chronograph, maintains visual balance through the thoughtful use of colour-coded indicators, notably red and green chronograph hands and a fuel gauge–style power reserve indicator. The sheer technical complexity of Solaria's Calibre 3655 is matched by its unparalleled finishing. Components are hand-decorated with no fewer than nine haute horlogerie techniques, including sunray brushing, circling, sandblasting, and brouillage. Even the smallest parts, such as the jewel sinks, barrel ratchets, and cam wheels, are finely polished.
Yahoo
10-03-2025
- Science
- Yahoo
Seiko's Most Extreme Dive Watch Gets a Celebratory Makeover
The deep-sea diving Prospex Marinemaster is getting a limited edition dial and impressive new movement. Every product is carefully selected by our editors. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more Unfortunately, you can't light candles at the bottom of the ocean. So Seiko is celebrating the 60th birthday of the legendary 62MAS, the brand's first true dive watch, with a trio of limited-edition Prospex Marinemaster references. The most impressive is, hands down, the reference SLA081J1, a 60th Anniversary Prospex Marinemaster equipped with Seiko's newest and most advanced automatic movement and decorated with an engraved dial steeped in Japanese art history. Already Seiko's highest-performing dive watch, with a 600m dive rating vetted by the Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Science and Technology (JAMSTEC), this special edition Marinemaster now boasts a 72-hour power reserve. Over the past 60 years, Seiko has produced some of the best-performing dive watches of all time, along with a pantheon of approachable classics suited for casual diving and everyday wear. A heritage that illustrious should be celebrated with a watch that blows the rest out of the water, which is exactly what the 60th Anniversary Prospex Marinemaster does. The hulking 16mm thick case, which measures 50.4mm lug-to-lug, is built from a single piece of titanium and has an L-shaped gasket that prevents helium infiltration during saturation diving, negating the need for an escape valve. The stainless steel bezel is coated with a 'diamond-like carbon' that makes it six times harder and more scratch-resistant than steel. To prevent weak spots, the bezel is secured in place with two external clamps, which screw into the back of the case. Inside the case is Seiko's newest 8L automatic movement series evolution, the 8L45. It boasts a 72-hour power reserve and an accuracy of +10 to -5 seconds per day. It is effectively a less decorated version of the movement found in Grand Seiko automatic watches outside of the Hi-Beat and Spring Drive lines. Seiko equipped this limited edition Marinemaster with a new curved-link stainless steel bracelet that is designed to contour to the wrist, and closes with a traditional three-piece clasp. In a tradition borrowed from Grand Seiko, the dial on the 60th Anniversary Prospex Marinemaster is inspired by the natural aura of the deep ocean, known in Japanese as shinkai. The dial texture is based on horimono, a traditional Japanese woodworking and metal engraving technique, which is also used colloquially in reference to tattoo art. Horimono creates very shallow reliefs that appear to have great depth by utilizing light and forced perspective on a miniature scale. It is an art form with a strong cultural heritage and significance in Japan. The dial of this limited-edition Marinemaster is only a couple of millimeters thick but creates the appearance of rolling waves over a dark ocean. A clear coating enhanced the effect with a lustrous finish. To prevent the hour markers from coming loose, they are set into the dial rather than applied on top. The hour and minute hands have a new design for the Marinemaster line with flat tops, beveled off at the edges, and rounded lume inserts. The 60th Anniversary Prospex Marinemaster may look like just another classic, beautiful dive watch fit for everyday wear. But there is nowhere on or below the surface of planet Earth where this watch can't go. Seiko's 60th Anniversary Prospex Marinemaster, reference SLA079J1, will be released in July 2025. The limited edition of only 600 units will be sold exclusively at Seiko boutiques and through a very select group of authorized dealers for $4,600. $4,600 at Seiko
Yahoo
15-02-2025
- Science
- Yahoo
This Wild Ceramic Watch Just Shook Up Switzerland's Space Race
Bell & Ross outfitted the newest BR-03 with an astronomically cool dial. Every product is carefully selected by our editors. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more There are plenty of moon watches and space watches out there, but the newest entry from Bell & Ross brings Mars into the picture. While the French watchmaker has always been influenced by aeronautical engineering and heritage, the BR-03 Astro ascends into near-Earth orbit. Built into a ceramic version of the familiar BR-03 case is a wild and vividly detailed dial depicting the Earth, Moon, Mars and a satellite. The celestial bodies are set against a photorealistic view of stars strewn across the night sky. Though the dial is unusual, this watch still meets the high-performance standards that Bell & Ross is known for. The case is built from high-grade ceramic and has a 100-meter dive rating, and it runs on a caliber BR-CAL.327 automatic movement. Bell & Ross has produced fun and experimental dials in the past, often emulating airplane instrument panels or using vivid colors and transparent materials. But the French watchmaker has never made a dial quite like this one before. The Astro dial shows Earth from space with our closest galactic neighbors in view. The starry background is a plate of blue aventurine quartz crystal with laser-engraved details. The other three objects move in continuous orbit, tracking the time in a counterintuitive but astronomically sensitive fashion. Mars is a small red dot placed farthest from the center, but because the Red Planet has the slowest orbit from Earth's perspective, it depicts hours. The Moon is the next fastest-moving object from our home planet and, therefore, represents the minute hand. Closest to Earth, with the fastest orbit, is a satellite representing the seconds hand. This arrangement is challenging to decipher at first, but once you understand the astrophysical logic, it makes perfect sense. Most impressive of all is the hemispherical cap hollowed into the center of the sapphire glass to house a geometrically accurate Earth. With each orbital body placed on concentric transparent plates, the dial as a whole has a mesmerizing effect. Bell & Ross's BR-03 is the French watchmaker's best-known and most successful line. Like Rolex's 'Mercedes' hands and Grand Seiko's intricate dial textures, the square case with exposed screws securing a round dial has become an unmistakable brand signature. For the Astro, the entire case and band were given a matte black finish to emulate the dark vacuum of space and direct complete attention to the dial itself. The case is high-grade ceramic that has been sandblasted to create a course but uniform surface. A synthetic rubber strap with a pin buckle is attached to the ceramic case. As part of the limited edition set, the decorative case includes a second two-piece nylon strap with velcro closure. This interplanetary time machine is powered by a caliber BR-CAL.327 automatic movement made by Sellitta, one of the top names in Swiss movement manufacturing. Although this movement is found in most of the BR-03 line, it has likely never supported a dial as ornate and unusual as this one. The Bell & Ross BR-03 Astro is a limited edition run of 999 units. It is available now from Bell & Ross and authorized dealers for $4,800. Included is a special edition decorative box and an additional nylon two-piece strap with a velcro closure. $4,800 at Bell & Ross
