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Forbes
15-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
After Four Decades, New York's Quatorze Bis Still Sets a Standard For French Bistro Fare And Bonhomie
With its red facade and yellow awning New York's Quatorze Bis would fit right in on Montparnasse, How naïve of the New York food media to proclaim the French bistro food is back in fashion when it never fell out of it. French bistros have been a fixture in New York ever since they lined the streets of the Theater District back in the 1940s. There were many others elsewhere, not least Quatorze, which Mark Di Giulio and Peter Meltzer opened back in 1984 on 14th Street in the Village and later moved uptown to East 79th Street as Quatorze Bis, then moved again, three blocks away to 81st Street. The red banquettes, white tablecloths and French posters give Quatorze Bis a feeling of Parisian ... More charm. Since Peter Meltzer's passing, Alex McNeice, the restaurant's General Manager from the 79th Street location, has joined Mark as a partner at the restaurant's newest location. So Quatorze (Bis) has been going string for nearly forty years. In all that time its classic décor has changed little. You are still greeted by the lipstick red façade and yellow awning, and inside are the same Parisian posters, red banquettes, white double linens, flowers, and wooden floors. The yellow menu mimics those of Paris models and there is a nightly blackboard menu of specials. For some reason the cheery lighting of the past that allowed you to see everyone in the room has been lowered at night, so that now you can't. Young chef Alex Standoff keeps French tradition going with fresh ideas of his own. The greeting is as warm as ever, especially since Quatorze Bis fills up with a local regular crowd of upper east siders who know not to show up in t-shirts and baseball caps. The young staff seems to bounce on their feet, and their welcome, menu explanations and recommendations are part of the atmosphere's bon vitalité. Though it's a small room (65 seats, now with tables outside, and a bar counter for nine) the noise level never rises to the distress of some many other places. Good bread begins a meal of steak frites and asparagus at Quatorze Bis. Over the years I've probably sampled every dish and most specials on the menu––now prepared by young Chef Alex Staniloff––but some I can never resist ordering time and time. I look at the modest wine list of about 50 selections, choose a simple regional bottling, tear off a piece of a warm baguette and slather it with the generous amount of butter (itself at the right spreadable temperature) provided to a table. There are oysters of various species available, and from Thursday to Sunday 5:30 pm to 6:30 pm, guests can enjoy a selection priced at $1.50, with gaufrettespotato chips, and a selection of red, white, rosé, and sparkling for $10 a glass. A pretty Gruyère and bacon tart is always on the menu at Quatorze Bis. Outside of a Jewish or German deli, you don't often see creamed herring on a menu, but here it is––nicely balanced with cream and the briny, cured taste of the herring. Always a treat to find is the browned bacon, leek and Gruyère tart with a fine pastry crust, and the plump seafood sausage has been on the menu for as long as I can remember for good reason. For a salad, the chicory with bacon and hot vinaigrette is a savory starter, but I can never resist the French onion soup with its sweet caramelized onions in abundance covered over with a good slab of bubbly, golden Gruyere so hot you have to wait minutes before attempting an assault with a spoon. Calf's liver and bacon used to be on every bistro menu, but no longer, so I was very happy to see it still at Quartorze Bis, perfectly cooked till rosy, full of flavor and glazed with sauteed shallots and the fat of the bacon, which goes very well with either the superb frites or mashed potatoes that seem composed of equal parts butter. Oysters are offered for a $1.50 each on certain nights at Quatorze Bis. I always order trout when I find it, but the sample that night was rather flavorless. It could have used a treatment like amandine. A large portion of half a roast chicken on the other hand was full of flavor and came with crisp skin, so it really didn't need a somewhat thickened sauce on top. How can one not order some beef at a bistro? So I tucked into a grilled sirloin as good as I've ever had ––immensely flavorful, with a minerality and an ideal chew that was very Parisian indeed, crusted on the exterior and rose-red as ordered. Other evergreen items on the menu include hearty boeuf à la bourguignonne, choucroute garnie and cassoulet, though they only have so many portions each night, so place your order as soon as you sit down if that's what you crave. Profiteroles with chocolate sauce and glass of Sauternes. Desserts are wonderful old favorites, including plump profiteroles with a deep dark chocolate; succulent poached poire belle Hélène; and a hot apple tart that was crisp and sweet and had the real taste of good apples. There is also cheese available, if you like, and a number of after dinner drinks you might consider. As noted, New York has always welcomed good Parisian bistros, not least a slew of newcomers just in the past year that people say they've just 'discovered,' when the old standbys have been all along been hiding in plain sight. Quatorze Bis has been one of the best and most consistent for four buoyant decades and it now is drawing another generation to its bright red doors. QUATORZE BIS 1578 First Avenue 212-535-1414 Open for dinner nightly and for brunch Thurs.-Sun.
Vancouver Sun
24-04-2025
- General
- Vancouver Sun
Recipe: Les Amis' Pecan Cheese Shortbread
Article content Les Amis du Fromage is a favourite of Vancouver's top chefs because of its unique cheese selection, quick turnover and affordable prices. Article content Article content Founded in 1985, the family owned shop offers a selection of local and imported cheeses, charcuterie and more via its two locations in the city, at 1752 West 2nd Ave. in Kitsilano and 843 East Hastings St. Article content If you stop by to buy some cheese, I suggest storing it in its original paper or box, or you may wrap in parchment or waxed paper. Article content Article content While cheese on its own is always a treat, I'm partial to the idea of adding a savoury spin to some shortbread with the addition of some delicious Gruyère. Here's a recipe to try it at home, adapted from Disc Cookery by Jurgen Gothe published by Whitecap Books. Article content ½ lb (250 g) Gruyère cheese, grated Article content ½ tsp (2 mL) salt Article content ½ tsp (2 mL) cayenne pepper Article content 2½ cups (625 mL) all-purpose flour Article content ½ cup (125 mL) ground pecans Article content Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Article content In a food processor or in a mixing bowl with an electric mixer, combine all ingredients and roll the dough into a log. Refrigerate until firm. Cut log into ½-inch (1 cm) slices and bake for about 10 minutes. Article content Article content
Boston Globe
15-04-2025
- General
- Boston Globe
Make the most of leftover bread, veggies, and other fridge staples
Frittata With Toasted Bread, Cheese, and Caramelized Onions Makes 4 to 6 servings This recipe takes a handful of basic ingredients and turns them into a rich, satisfying meal for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Each element plays an essential role. Crusty bread toasted in butter and olive oil gives the frittata substance and texture; onions cooked until sweet and caramelized add depth; cheese brings umami and gooeyness; and the eggs provide richness and tie everything together. Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up Cooking starts on the stove top but finishes at 425 degrees, so you will need a 10-inch nonstick skillet that's oven-safe. Serve a crisp green salad alongside as a counterpoint to the frittata's richness. 10 large eggs Kosher salt and ground black pepper 4 ounces cheddar, Gouda, or Gruyère cheese, shredded (1 cup), divided 3 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces, divided Advertisement 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 3 ounces rustic bread, cut into 1-inch cubes (about 3 cups) 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or fresh chives, to serve Heat the oven to 425 degrees with a rack in the middle position. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs with ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper, then stir in two-thirds of the cheese; set aside. In a 10-inch nonstick oven-safe skillet set over medium heat, warm 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil until the butter melts. Add the bread and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl; set aside. In the same skillet set over medium, warm the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering. Add the onions and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cover and cook, stirring often and adjusting the heat as needed to prevent scorching, until the onions are lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the bread and wipe out the skillet. In the same skillet again set over medium, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Add the egg mixture, then quickly add the bread and onions; stir just to combine the ingredients and distribute them in an even layer. Cook, without stirring, for 5 minutes; the edges should be set. Run a silicone spatula around the edges to ensure the eggs are not sticking. Sprinkle evenly with the remaining cheese and place the skillet in the oven. Bake until the frittata is set on the surface and the cheese is lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the skillet from the oven (the handle will be hot). Run the spatula around the edges of the frittata and underneath it to loosen, then carefully slide onto a cutting board. Let rest for at least 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, sprinkled with parsley and cut into wedges. Advertisement Turkish Red Lentil Soup Connie Miller Turkish Red Lentil Soup Makes 4 servings Kırmızı mercİmek çorbası is a traditional Turkish soup made with red lentils, which soften and break down during cooking, creating a rustic texture that's creamy but not starchy or heavy. Some versions include vegetables such as potatoes, carrots, or fresh tomatoes, but ours lets the lentils take the lead. Aleppo pepper brings gentle heat to the dish. If you can't find it, substitute with an additional teaspoon of paprika and ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes. This dish is delicious as is, but also provides a perfect base for a bit of experimentation. Have leeks you need to use? Add one in, instead of the onion, for a silkier texture. Chard or kale left over in the fridge? Either makes for a hearty addition. Swap out coarse bulgur for the rice to add a nuttier flavor, add a carrot for sweetness, or amp up the heat with a Fresno or jalapeño. Just be sure to keep a grain, whether it be rice or bulgur, to help thicken the soup. To make this recipe vegan, substitute olive oil for the butter. 3 tablespoons salted butter 1 medium yellow onion cut into ½-inch dice (about 1 cup) 1 medium garlic clove, finely grated 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 tablespoon sweet paprika ½ teaspoon ground cumin 1 cup red lentils 2 tablespoons long-grain white rice Kosher salt 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper (see headnote) Chopped fresh mint, to serve (optional) Lemon wedges, to serve In a large saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomato paste, paprika, and cumin, then cook for about 1 minute. Advertisement Add the lentils, rice, 5 cups water, and 1 teaspoon salt. Stir to combine, then bring the soup to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a lively simmer, then cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the lentils and rice are tender and broken down, about 30 minutes. Season to taste. Meanwhile, in a small skillet set over medium heat, warm the oil, swirling to coat the pan. Add the Aleppo pepper and cook until a few bubbles appear and the oil is bright red. Remove from heat and set aside. To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and drizzle the Aleppo pepper oil over each serving. Garnish with mint, if using, and lemon wedges on the side. Chilaquiles Rojos Connie Miller Chilaquiles Rojos Makes 4 servings A beloved Mexican breakfast dish that's equally great for lunch or dinner, chilaquiles feature tortilla chips that are lightly cooked in a red or green sauce and topped with melted cheese. It was created as a way to use up leftover tortillas and other ingredients, though the dish works equally well with store-bought chips, as in this recipe. If you like, to round out the meal, serve the chilaquiles with scrambled or fried eggs. 1 medium white, yellow, or red onion, quartered 2 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil, divided 3 medium garlic cloves, peeled 14½-ounce can fire-roasted or regular diced tomatoes 1 chipotle chili in adobo, plus 1 teaspoon adobo sauce ½ teaspoon ground cumin or dried oregano, or both Advertisement 6 cups tortilla chips Kosher salt and ground black pepper 4 ounces cheddar, pepper Jack, or cotija cheese, shredded (1 cup) ½ cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves Optional ingredients, for garnish: Diced avocado, sour cream, or Mexican crema; lime wedges; pickled jalapeños; hot sauce, or a combination Finely chop 1 onion quarter; set aside for garnish. In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, warm 1 tablespoon of the oil until barely smoking. Add the remaining onion quarters and the garlic and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until charred all over, 6 to 9 minutes. If the garlic is done before the onion, remove from the skillet. Transfer the onion and garlic to a blender; reserve the skillet. To the blender, add the tomatoes with juices, the chipotle and adobo sauce, and the cumin, then puree until smooth, about 1 minute. In the same skillet set over medium, warm the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering. Carefully add the puree (it will splatter) and cook, uncovered and stirring often, until slightly darkened and thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in 1 cup water and bring to a simmer. Add the tortilla chips and toss to coat. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the cheese and stir until it begins to melt, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the reserved chopped onion and the cilantro and serve directly from the skillet, garnished with whatever combination of toppings you prefer. Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to Send comments to
Yahoo
07-04-2025
- General
- Yahoo
Speedy chocolate chip cookies, baked mac and cheese
1 stick unsalted butter, softened 1/2 cup brown sugar 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1/2 tsp kosher salt 1/2 tsp baking soda 1 tsp vanilla 1 egg 1 1/2 cups flour 1 cup dark chocolate chips Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the butter, both sugars, salt, and baking soda until fluffy and combined. Add the vanilla and egg and beat again until smooth, scraping down the bowl with a spatula. Add the flour and chocolate chips and mix on low speed to form a dough. Scoop the dough into 1-inch mounds onto parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing them 2-3 inches apart. I like to use a self-release scoop for ease and consistent portioning. Bake for 11-14 minutes until lightly browned on the edges but still glossy and underdone in the center. Cool on sheet pans for 5 minutes, then transfer to a cooling rack to cool fully. For the noodles: 1 lb macaroni noodles 1 tbsp butter For the sauce: 5 tbsp butter 1/3 cup flour 4 cups whole milk, plus more if needed 2 cups shredded white cheddar cheese 2 cups shredded Gruyère cheese 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese 1/8 tsp freshly grated nutmeg (just a few passes on the microplane) 1 tsp salt, plus more to taste Freshly ground black pepper, optional For the cheese topping: 2 tbsp butter 1 cup panko breadcrumbs 1/2 tsp garlic powder Pinch salt Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the noodles to very al dente; they will continue to bake in the oven, so don't worry about them being underdone. Drain in a colander, toss with butter to coat, and allow to cool fully. In a pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the flour and stir with a wooden spoon to make a roux. Cook for about 1 minute, stirring constantly. Do not let this mixture brown. Whisk in the milk and bring to a simmer to fully thicken. Turn off the heat, add the cheeses, and season with nutmeg, salt, and, if desired, black pepper. If the sauce seems gluey or overly thick in any way, add additional milk, about 1/4 cup at a time. Add the noodles to the sauce and stir well. Taste and adjust seasoning. Transfer to a buttered 9×13 baking dish. Using a small saucepan on the stovetop or a bowl in the microwave, melt the butter for the topping. Add the breadcrumbs, garlic powder, and salt and stir to combine. Sprinkle this mixture evenly over the mac and cheese. Bake for 20-25 minutes, just until brown on top and bubbly. Copyright 2025 Nexstar Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
New York Times
05-04-2025
- General
- New York Times
Cottage Cheese Egg Bites Are Versatile and Handy
In the spirit of giving oneself a little grace, I'll say yes, I did make good on my goal of eating more breakfasts this year. I've been making this baked oatmeal and this rice-cooker oatmeal on a loop, changing up my add-ins each time, and these two make-ahead breakfasts have kept me fed and full in the mornings. But I think I need something new. Also, I'm out of oats. Hello, cottage cheese egg bites! The recipe for these adorable little protein-rich snacks from Naz Deravian blends eggs with cottage cheese and shredded Cheddar (or Monterey Jack or Gruyère) to create a smooth batter that holds raw or cooked chopped vegetables and cooked meat. In other words: This recipe is how you turn those random leftovers in your fridge — some roasted broccoli, a lone chicken drumstick and a half-bunch of parsley — into a perfect grab-and-go breakfast. Featured Recipe View Recipe → I never don't want a smoothie, especially this happy pink strawberry smoothie. Make Lidey Heuck's French toast casserole for dessert; eat leftovers for breakfast. We love a twofer. The actual name of this five-star recipe is unmeasured crepes, and that's about as much math as I want on a weekend morning. Weekends are the time for good breakfasts, and they're also good for a little bit of meal prep and planning. April showers bring May sniffles, so I'm eyeing this ginger-spiced chicken broth from Kristina Felix, a boldly flavored elixir that can sit ready in my freezer for that inevitable springtime cold. Ali Slagle has a fun new guide to building better lunches, with three clever recipes: tinned fish hand rolls, spinach and feta lentil bowls and tortellini pasta salad. And because even the most carefully planned, pride-inducing lunch can be ruined by leaks, here's Wirecutter's guide to the best food storage containers. I don't have to tell you, New York Times Cooking reader, that a big batch of weekend chicken pays weekday dividends. But I'll leave Sam Sifton's miso chicken here anyway. And for dessert, how about a hefty slice of old-fashioned coconut cake? Lisa Donovan's recipe is the stuff spring birthday dreams are made of — three layers of tall, soft white cake held together with Swiss buttercream, each element confidently coconutty.
