8 hours ago
I went to one of Wales' most famous places for the first time and had to retrain my way of thinking
I went to one of Wales' most famous places for the first time and had to retrain my way of thinking
Is a visit to Tenby as memorable as people say it is - and for the right reasons?
At last I made it to Tenby
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
Whenever travel around Wales comes up in conversation with friends and I comment that I've never been to Tenby the reaction is always the same - disbelief, so one sunny day I packed our bags and we headed off to spend 24 hours in the seaside town that everyone seems to love, to find out why.
My first worry was parking. I'm a bit paranoid about it and I'd heard it can be a challenge, and as the forecast was for glorious sunshine so I knew it would be busy, even though it was June and not even a school holiday. So it was up early, much to the annoyance of the family and, after some research, we headed for the Five Arches pay and display car park.
It was 8.30am and there were still many spaces to choose from and luckily the car park had a machine because I hate using an app - so many car park companies, so many apps, so much phone storage wasted and patchy network coverage. For more property stories sent to your inbox twice a week sign up to the property newsletter here.
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The cost was £15 for 24 hours which was fine for us as that was going to be the length of our stay but if you're staying in the town for longer then a number of car parks offer a weekly ticket that you can book in advance.
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Due to the early, and maybe unnecessary, early start and to avoid anyone getting 'hangry', we headed off to the town's main street to find somewhere for breakfast. Sadly, although there were a number of lovely looking establishments like Harbwr Tap & Kitchen and Tudor Mount Gastrobar, nothing appeared open yet.
Thank goodness then for Caffi Llew, I think that is what it was called, where we had a full English breakfast that was a good size and tasty and, rather bizarrely but in a good way, included chips.
Our incredible apartment called Min Y Mor had multiple sea views over South Beach and St Catherine's Island
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
We then headed back to the car park to take our stuff to the apartment, which surely has one of the best views in the town of South Beach and St Catherine's Island. Available through Puffin Cottages Holidays, we were totally smitten by the property, which is hiding within the historic building called Gunfort Mansion.
Despite the temptation of a nap enjoying the surround sound speakers or sprawling on the massive sofa for a rest, we headed out to explore.
Lots of pretty little lanes to discover - this is Cob Lane
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
You have to navigate around people who stop suddenly to admire the view or take a photograph, but the pace of people generally that day was slow; a holiday vibe.
I had to retrain my way of thinking from living my whole life in a busy and crowded city, and always being 10 minutes late, to just 'strolling' and 'pottering' around the pretty little streets hiding off the main high street. And it is worth strolling as there is much to discover and admire.
It's a classic shot - taken from the end of the harbour wall
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
Of course, I've seen photos of Tenby and the famous view of the pretty painted facades of the predominantly Georgian townhouses that line the street that meanders down to the harbour.
First stop was this famous road called Crackwell Street to take some property photos and explore Harbour Beach. The route from the apartment took us down the cute and character packed Tor Lane and then Cob Lane.
This pretty lane is where little cottages keep the colourful façade trend going when maybe their grand Georgian neighbours grab all the attention, but they are equally as delightful.
Crackwell Street is part of the cliff-top streets that boast the pretty, painted, mostly Georgian townhouses
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
As the sun broke through the clouds and then burnt through them to reveal a huge blue sky over what looked like a crystal clear sea it was easy to see why the town can effortlessly enchant people - it's packed with character and unique buildings, tiny hidden lanes and friendly locals.
There are plenty of shops in the town to spend a whole day browsing and we enjoyed a few quick visits to Tenby Book Shop, and for the cool people in the group (clearly not me) there was Walk on Water and Underground Surf and Skate, as well as sweet shops and ice cream parlours.
There are national brands such as White Stuff, Boots and Greggs, a range of banks and the occasional gallery such as Llewellyn's.
Then we discovered Sergeant's Lane, which was such a wonderful surprise - a narrow and atmospheric cobbled lane linking the town's centre to the harbour that is thought to date back to medieval times.
Sergeant's Lane was a wonderful surprise
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
The surprise of finding the micro brewery called HARBWR Tenby Harbour Brewery and Taproom along the alley was memorable and the lane was packed with people enjoying a drink or food in the sunshine, or just meandering down the cobbles, soaking up the ambience.
The 'sunniest beer garden in Tenby' at the Harbwr Brewery Tap & Kitchen, off Sergeant's Lane
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
No trip to Tenby would be complete without enjoying an ice cream and we thoroughly enjoyed a tub, on advice from the friendly lady behind the counter at Tenby Harbour Snack Bar, as they are harder for gulls to grab and easier to hang on to.
It was 24 hours to enjoy my stay but there was one 'must do' thing on the list
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
We sat by St Julian's Chapel, located by the beach and next to the much photographed 'big blue house that literally sits on the sand. It was built as a centre for the fishermen of the town but is now a number of holiday lets, find out more about the building and see inside one of the apartments when it was for sale in 2021 here.
Surely everyone everyone recognises 'the big blue house' on Harbour Beach?
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
We briefly visited the cosy cove that is Harbour Beach and contemplated a climb up Castle Hill to visit the castle ruin, the Prince Albert memorial, and admire the views from the headland but were decided to head back into town.
Alternatively, with the tide out, we could have visited St Catherine's Island and explored the fort that crowns the summit, being careful not to get cut off when the tide comes in, or taking a boat trip to Caldy Island a bit further out to sea and to the south of the town and potentially spotted a few dolphins playing in the warmer summer water.
Both islands can be visited during the summer months by foot or by a boat to Caldy that you can only book on the day, but we were conflicted, and as time was moving on we decided to wander back into town and on the way came across the Tudor Merchant's House.
Tudor Merchant's House in Tenby is not the oldest building in Tenby, but it is the oldest house still standing in the town
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
Owned by the National Trust I was excited to visit, not so much the younger members of the group, so we decided to split up. During the spring and summer it is open Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday - it was Wednesday.
So we continued, together, past the Plantagenet House Restaurant, thought to date back to the 10th century in parts, which comes highly recommended by a friend but will have to be a destination next time we visit.
At the top of Quay Hill we encountered some of Tenby's not so welcoming residents - a gang of gulls. They swooped down outside The Lifeboat Inn and cheekily pinched food off a plate, as well as breaking a few glasses, and startled one poor lady who was sitting at the table. Find out more about that here.
Don't ever let gulls put you off eating alfresco
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
We strolled back to the apartment, I'd got the hang of strolling by then, intent on a long walk along South Beach but I had demonstrated a rookie error - I hadn't checked the tide times and it was fully in and lapping against the rocks below, so there was no sand to actually walk along. For more property stories join our Amazing Welsh Homes Facebook group here
The cinema-sized, huge screen and the availability of Netflix and Disney+ plus a very comfortable sofa at the apartment meant I lost everyone for two hours, so I ended up sitting in an armchair in a bay window with a perfect view of St Catherine's Island and Fort with a glass of wine, so no hardship there.
Not checking the tide times meant no stroll on South Beach, but the view from the apartment was just as good
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
As the ice cream box was ticked, we decided to get takeaway fish and chips to get that 'must do in Tenby' done - and it was more budget friendly than dining out.
However, for an evening meal out I was surprised at how many choices were available, from classic pub grub to more sophisticated cuisine at Umi, from cocktails and live music as well as food at The Cove and glanced inside Twelve and Upper Mews Burger & Bar as we passed by earlier - they're on the list for a return visit.
Fish and chip dinner from one of the town's takeaways with a duet of sea views in the background
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
We bought our fish and chip (and battered sausage and chip) dinner from 'Tenby's Traditional Fish & Chips' and it was delicious, eating it back at the apartment with the French doors wide open and the sound of the sea as our perfect soundscape.
One tip I would pass on is to be mindful of when the takeaways close - it can be as early as 7.30pm - it's not Cardiff's chippy alley!
There was so much more to do and see in Tenby that we were sad to only have 24 hours to enjoy the unique atmosphere that drifts through the attractive, historic streets that include a link to King Henry V's escape to France before returning and marching to the Battle of Bosworth to defeat King Richard III and claim the crown.
It gives us an easy excuse to return to Tenby now that we had a feel for the town and more context for successfully mixing relaxing with exploring.
In the school summer holidays and on weekends I imagine Tenby gets very crowded but on a sunny Wednesday in June it was perfect
(Image: Alex Ridout, Media Wales )
The next morning we awoke early to a storm and heavy rain attacking the windows. The sound of seagulls chatting and children's laughter from the beach was replaced by the roar of waves crashing on the rocks below and an ominous sounding wind howling down the totally deserted streets.
As we ran to the car and got soaked in the torrential rain I still decided that Tenby is just as wonderful in a storm as it is in blazing sunshine - we will return, whatever the weather.
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